WWII German theatre made USAAF A-2 leather flight jacket

Posted on December 20, 2014 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281514834920
This vintage A-2 leather flight jacket was made in the 1940s, either at the end of the war or during occupation. A-2s ceased to be produced in 1943, but remained popular with servicemen. Theatre made examples like this are rare, but were commissioned by Americans who wanted a jacket that was no longer available through official channels. It is made to the A-2 pattern, with a shirt style collar secured by snaps, flapped, snapped patch pockets, knit cuffs and collar, and a zipper front with a wind flap. The jacket has a one piece back and two piece sleeves. The jacket has war-time German hardware, with a Zipp main zipper (with the back marked DRP, which stands for Deutschers ReichsPatent, and points to a 1945 or before dating of manufacture of the zipper). All the snaps are PRYM brand. The jacket is lined with a typically German plaid, which has been heavily worn and has been patched.

Chest (pit to pit): 23″ (doubled = 46″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 19″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 26″
Length (base of collar to end of waistband): 24″

1950s Glendale red hunting jacket

Posted on December 20, 2014 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271689399403
This vintage red wool mackinaw coat was made in Minnesota by Glendale Outerwear. It has four front pockets, all flapped, with rear game pocket access and shirt style cuffs. The coat is unlined.

Chest (pit to pit): 23″ (doubled = 46″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 18″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 25-1/2″
Length (Base of collar to hem): 30-1/2″

1920s Red-Head Brand canvas hunting jacket

Posted on November 27, 2014 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281511694000

This vintage canvas hunting jacket was made in the 1920s by Red Head Brand. It features the early variant of their makers label and of their buttons. The jacket is made of a double layer of canvas, with an internal game pocket (enclosed between the two layers instead of an open, rubberized lined pouch as was found on RedHead coats from the 1930s-on). There is access to the game pocket through internal slit pockets, similar to the access on a half-moon vest. The collar and cuffs are corduroy, and the shoulders have additional reinforcement. The hip cargo pockets are two separate U shaped pockets which share a flap. The breast pocket combines a watch pocket and a cigarette pocket, again under the same flap. There are grommet ventilated double underarm gussets for freedom of motion, and a throat latch hook and eye under the collar.

Tagged size: 40
Chest (pit to pit): 22″ (doubled = 44″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 19-1/2″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 23″
Length (base of collar to hem): 29-3/4″

1930s Woolrich 255 hunting mackinaw

Posted on November 23, 2014 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281506560642
This vintage jacket was made in the mid to late 1930s by the Woolrich Woolen Mills of Woolrich, PA. This is the rare 255 model, with a double front yoke, handwarmers with D-pocket stitching and flapped cargo pockets. It has exposed buttons and a rear game pouch. The coat, in keeping with many early mackinaw coats, is unlined.

Chest (pit to pit): 24-1/2″ (doubled = 49″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 20″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24-1/2″
Length (Base of collar to hem): 30″

1930s H.W. Carter & Sons red and black point blanket mackinaw coat

Posted on November 16, 2014 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271670833049
This vintage jacket was made by H.W. Carter & Sons of Lebanon, New Hampshire in the mid 1930s. It is made of heavy red and black point blanket material, in a single breasted mackinaw style. Unusual for a point blanket coat, this example has a game pocket, which does up with two early Hookless-style Talon zippers. The coat has a zipper hood which snaps down into a collar. The hood zips open and closed with a Talon zipper, the design of which dates this jacket to c.1937. The coat bears a United Garment Workers of America union label, as well as a black and yellow tag identifying the material as water repellent and all wool. The jacket is fully lined in mustard colored cotton, similar to what Woolrich was using on their hunting coats in this period, especially in its use of a single patch breast pocket. The mackinaw has snap closure cargo pockets as well as handwarmers.

Chest (pit to pit): 25″ (doubled = 50″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 18″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 26-1/4″
Length (base of collar to hem): 31″

1930s half-zip, half button moose pattern camp blanket coat

Posted on November 16, 2014 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281498553174
This vintage coat was made in the 1930s from moose patterned wool camp blanket material. The coat is made in a rare pattern, with a half-zip bottom and a 3×6 double breasted top that was made in small numbers between about 1934-1939, notably by Congress Sportswear as part of their Maine Guide line. Most were made from red and black Hudson’s Bay point blanket material, but this one is made of a more distinctive camp blanket. The blanket material has a red background with orange and camel colored stripes, approximating sunrise, and black moose. I have found several examples of this moose-meets-deco patterned Indian Blanket from other sources that have been attributed to the Pendleton Woolen mills, but none with a surviving label, so I can’t be sure. LL Bean was selling a similar coat in the mid 1930s from their figural mallard patterned blankets. The jacket has two handwarmer pockets and a yoke which forms the “chest protector” double breasted section. The coat has a zipper hood which buttons down into a collar. The hood spreads into a collar or zips into a hood with a Talon zipper, with a deco-lined slider and rounded slider-to-puller assembly only produced in the mid 1930s, and a bell-shaped pull. The original owner must have loved this coat, the main zipper, probably a grommet Talon was replaced with a 1950s Talon. Wear to the hem was repaired with patches and stitching. The chest was darned. The underarm and front corner were patched with buffalo plaid wool. But with such a distinctive coat, both in terms of material and in terms of cut, who can blame them?

Chest (pit to pit): 23″ (doubled = 46″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 19″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24-1/2″
Length (base of collar to hem): 32″

1930s Western Costume Company Hollywood fringed buckskin pants

Posted on November 2, 2014 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271654599844
These vintage buckskin pants were made in the 1930s, or possibly earlier. They were used by the Western Costume Company of Hollywood California in western movies starting in the 1930s. They are made of buckskin leather, rough side out, with fronge running the length of the outseam. They have one pocket, on the right seam, have a button fly and belt loops. There is a stain on the right leg and on the pocket bag. The main tag has them marked as a size 32×32, but they have been taken in and shortened over the decades, as these were used in countless movies. The main tag has number 38-23_5-2. If the illegible number is a 4, that number, 2345 was the production number for 1936’s The Last of the Mohicans, starring Randolph Scott, in which he wore an identical looking pair of buckskin pants, and in which other characters wore many fringed buckskin costume pieces.

Waist (side to side): 15″ (doubled = 30″)
Outseam: 36″
Inseam: 25″
Rise: 11″

1917 Hookless Zipper- The first production zipper

Posted on October 27, 2014 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281479010615
This vintage money belt was made in 1917 or early 1918. It is khaki colored canvas, with a three compartment zippered pouch and a waist belt. These were generally advertised to servicemen during WWI, and were one of the earliest applications of the then brand-new Hookless fastener. The zipper on this one is the earliest production model produced by Hookless, produced under patent no. 1219881, applied for in 1914 and granted in 1917. An improved model came out later in 1917, narrowing the dating of this model down significantly. These early sliders were intricate, and were simplified significantly in later versions. The stop at the end of the zip is made from unstamped teeth, unlike later versions, where this was a specialized component. The buckle on the belt was made by Adjusta and was patented in 1912, and on January 27, 1914.

Original Perry A-2 horsehide flight jacket

Posted on May 22, 2014 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271501781667
This vintage leather flight jacket was made by the Perry Sportswear company of Newburgh, New York. It is made of horsehide leather. The jacket has a pinlock Conmar zipper, United Carr ball-style snaps and grommets under the arms. The pockets have square reinforcement stitching, rounded corners, and shallowly scalloped pocket flaps. The arm has some period artwork on it for the 5th Air Corps. Unlike most, which were painted, this one is branded onto the leather.

Chest (pit to pit): 41″
Shoulder to shoulder: 17-1/2″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 20-1/2″ (missing knit cuffs, so will be longer once replaced)
Length (base of collar to end of waistband): 23-1/2″

1920s / 1930s Olympic Cap

Posted on February 9, 2014 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271397653107
This vintage cap was made by Knox hats in the late 1920s or early 1930s as part of the uniform of the United States Olympic team. It’s difficult to say with 100% certainty, but this looks consistent with what was worn at either the 1928 St. Moritz or the 1932 Lake Placid games. It is made from white felt in a traditional flat-cap style, with an embroidered US Olympic shield crest consistent with the early games. The cap has a cream colored leather sweatband of the type typical of the late 1920s and early 1930s. The deep embossing is also typical of what Knox was producing in this era. The style of brim is something I have never seen before. Usually the brim on these flat caps is a separate piece, usually with a snap on the top. This is interfaced inside for a degree of stiffness, then decoratively stitched, presumably so that the cap can be rolled up and stowed easily. There is a remnant of the original size tag, but not enough to tell the size. The sweatband measures 22″ in circumference.

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