1930s Pritzker Air-O-Coat leather cossack jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281350510684
This vintage leather jacket was made c.1936-1937 by A. Pritzker & Sons, Inc. of Boston, MA. The jacket is a Cossack style, with a fancy belted back. The 3/4 zip with 1/4 button detailing, borrowed from “Gaucho” style shirts of the period, enjoyed a brief stint of popularity in 1936-1937 before falling out of favor. Pritzker & Sons was owned by Aaron Pritzker and had a factory at 1020 Washington Street, Boston, MA. They are probably now best known for their USN G-1 flight jackets, although prior to WWII, they were a prolific maker of civilian styles. This one was sold as the “Air-O-Coat”, conjuring up the romantic imagery of 1930s aviators.

The jacket has an early Talon Hookless style grommet zipper.. The jacket is lightweight and partially lined, as is typical of these early windbreaker styles. The shoulder yoke is lined, as are the cuffs. It has a half-belt back with one of the fanciest pleated back styles I’ve seen. Pockets are D-style due to the unlined construction.
The jacket was bought by Bucky Wadon around 1937. Wadon played football, hockey and baseball during the 1930s and served in WWII.
With a 42″ chest measurement, this would best fit someone who wears a size 36 or 38 jacket. The sleeves are uncommonly long for most jackets I’ve found from this era, perfect for the taller guy. The leather is still soft and supple and the jacket is still very wearable.

Chest (pit to pit): 21″ (doubled = 42″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 18″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 25-1/2″
Length (base of collar to hem): 20″

 photo IMG_0060.jpg

 photo IMG_0061.jpg

 photo IMG_0062-1.jpg

 photo IMG_0064.jpg

 photo IMG_0065.jpg

 photo IMG_0067.jpg

 photo IMG_0070-1.jpg

 photo IMG_0071-1.jpg

 photo IMG_0073.jpg

 photo IMG_0074-1.jpg

 photo wadon2.jpg

 photo 56wm.jpg

 photo 32101_B017992-004171-Copy.jpg

1930s Californian grommet zipper leather vest

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281350515618
This vintage leather vest was made by the California Sportswear Company of Los Angeles under their Californian label in the mid to late 1930s. It has an early Talon Hookless style grommet zipper and a chain and ring style Talon zip on the breast pocket, with the early style slider with the Talon script. These date it from around 1935-1938. It bears the famous Californian rising sun label, and has side adjuster belts, like those found on Californian’s half-belt leather jackets of the same period.

Chest (pit to pit): 20″ (doubled = 40″)
Length: 17-3/4″

 photo IMG_0094.jpg

 photo IMG_0095.jpg

 photo IMG_0080-1.jpg

 photo IMG_0092.jpg

 photo IMG_0079.jpg

 photo IMG_0088.jpg

 photo IMG_0091.jpg

1950s Abercrombie & Fitch leather utility jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271509482877
This vintage leather jacket was made in the late ’40s-early 1950s and was sold by Abercrombie & Fitch, back in the days when it was an outfitter of the highest caliber. The jacket appears to have begun life all those years ago as russet brown, but has been worn and aged to the wonderful color it is now. The jacket is a cossack style, about as minimalist as they come. It has handwarmer pockets, a one piece back and side adjuster belts. The cuffs have buttoned adjusters. The zip front does up with a Talon zipper, of the type which began production in the late ’40s and were the norm throughout the 1950s.

Chest (pit to pit): 23″ (doubled = 46″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 20″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24-1/2″
Length (base of collar to hem): 25-1/2″

 photo IMG_0041-2.jpg

 photo IMG_0042-1.jpg

 photo IMG_0052-1.jpg

 photo IMG_0047-1.jpg

 photo IMG_0051-1.jpg

 photo IMG_0046.jpg

 photo IMG_0053.jpg

 photo IMG_0057-1.jpg

 photo IMG_0055.jpg

 photo IMG_0058-1.jpg

 photo 194402-Copy2.jpg

1940s Front Quarter horsehide jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281349331760
This vintage leather jacket was made in the 1940s. The style, with knit waistband and cuffs, and slash handwarmer pockets was popular after the war. It is made of full grain front quarter horsehide, with a mouton collar. The jacket is lined in alpaca and corduroy, with quilted sleeve linings. The zipper is a later replacement from a no-name maker, with non-matching stitching. The cuffs and knit waistband also appear to be replacements. The jacket has a one piece back with a straight shoulder yoke. The horsehide has wonderful grain accented by decades of use. I have seen this particular design of yellow and black horsehide label, and this style of lining on earlier button front barnstormer models, but not on a post-war bomber jacket style like this. The leather has wear and loss of finish, but is still solid and supple.

Chest (pit to pit): 24″ (doubled = 48″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 19″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24-1/2″
Length (base of collar to end of cuff): 23″

 photo IMG_0017-3.jpg

 photo IMG_0018-5.jpg

 photo IMG_0019-3.jpg

 photo IMG_0028-3.jpg

 photo IMG_0029-4.jpg

 photo IMG_0030-1.jpg

 photo IMG_0035-2.jpg

 photo IMG_0037-2.jpg

c.1940 Woolrich railroad vest

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281349001502

This vintage vest was made in Woolrich, Pennsylvania by the Woolrich Woolen Mills. Woolrich changed their label design frequently, which makes them easy to date if you know what you’re looking for. This variant on the label was used from about 1940-1945. The design of the United Carr snaps are also a giveaway for this vest’s date of manufacture. In the 1930s, Woolrich used snaps with one of two variations on a greek key pattern. During WWII, they switched to a plain topped design, featured on this vest. Starting in the late 1940s, Woolrich switched to snaps bearing the Woolrich name, before switching back to a different variation on the plain topped snaps in the 1960s. The design of the back of the snap further confirms this dating.

The vest is made of Woolrich’s signature mackinaw wool. The vest has a snap front, and bound seams. Although some examples you see are the sleeved variation with the sleeves removed, the construction on those is different. The vest has a belt adjuster back and asymmetric top and bottom patch pockets. Comparisons to Brown’s Beach Jacket vests of the same period are inevitable. This vest has a single large interior pocket.

Woolrich still makes a version of this model, however, the snaps have given way to a zipper, the cut has been lengthened, the armholes lowered, the shape of the front and rear changed, the wool fabric is now a blend, the pockets are a different shape, the construction is different and the taped seams altered. There is really no comparison the the original.

Chest (pit to pit): 20″ (doubled = 40″
Length (back) 20-1/2″
Length (front): 23-1/2″

 photo IMG_0001-2.jpg

 photo IMG_0002-4.jpg

 photo IMG_0008-4.jpg

 photo IMG_0010-5.jpg

 photo IMG_0013-4.jpg

 photo IMG_0015-1.jpg

 photo IMG_0018-4.jpg

 photo IMG_0026-2.jpg

 photo IMG_0028-2.jpg

 photo sheep.jpg

 photo snaps.jpg

1907 dated cutaway coat

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271506052952
This vintage cutaway coat was made in 1907 by Henry Jonas of Butte, Montana for M.A. Berger, a noted land agent in the Butte area in the late 1800s and early decades of the 1900s. Butte was well known in that period for its copper mining. The coat bears the label of the Journeyman Tailors of America union.

Chest (pit to pit): 20″
Shoulder to shoulder: 17-3/4″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24″
Length (base of collar to hem): 36″

 photo IMG_0318.jpg

 photo IMG_0319.jpg

 photo IMG_0327.jpg

 photo IMG_0325.jpg

 photo IMG_0328.jpg

 photo IMG_0330.jpg

 photo IMG_0331.jpg

 photo IMG_0334.jpg

 photo IMG_0333.jpg

1940s Hart Schaffner & Marx single breasted overcoat

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281347291603
This vintage overcoat was made in the 1940s by Hart Schaffner & Marx and was sold by Moore, which had locations in San Francisco and Oakland, California. It is made of lightweight light-brown salt and pepper wool. It has a single breasted cut with a fly front, wide peak lapels, and button adjustment belts on the cuffs.

Chest (pit to pit): 22-1/2″
Shoulder to shoulder: 17″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 25″
Length: 42″

 photo IMG_0338-1.jpg

 photo IMG_0339-1.jpg

 photo IMG_0340.jpg

 photo IMG_0341.jpg

 photo IMG_0342.jpg

 photo IMG_0343.jpg

 photo IMG_0345.jpg

 photo IMG_0346.jpg

 photo IMG_0347.jpg