1940s Sport Jack

http://www.ebay.com/itm/272122939508

This vintage leather jacket was made in the mid-late 1940s by Sport Jack from horsehide leather.  It is a half-belt style, with a Talon zipper front and both handwarmer and flapped cargo pockets.

Chest (pit to pit): 22-1/4″ (doubled = 44-1/2″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 18-1/2″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24-1/2″
Length (base of collar to hem): 27-3/4″

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Windward horsehide jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/401050452234

This vintage jacket was made in the early-mid 1950s under the Windward label for Montgomery Ward. It is made of horse hide leather in a surcoat length half-belt cut. It has handwarmer pockets, a zipped breast pocket and flapped cargo pockets.  The jacket has a quilted lining.

Chest (pit to pit): 21″ (doubled = 42″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 18″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24-3/4″
Length (base of collar to hem): 29-3/4″

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1950s horsehide leather jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/272095253905

This vintage jacket was made in the early 1950s.  It is made from brown horsehide leather with a Talon zipper.  It has elasticized sides, a front and back yoke, an angled chest zip and handwarmer and snapped cargo pockets.

Chest (pit to pit): 22-1/2″ (doubled = 45″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 18-1/2″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24-3/8″
Length (base of collar to hem): 28″

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1930s Cossack jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/272084670989

This vintage leather jacket was made in the mid 1930s.  It is made from heavy leather, with an incredible grain to many of the panels.With such heavy wear and differences panel to panel, it’s hard to make a definitive asdessment of the leather,  Panels like the back feel distinctly horsehide, but some of the grainier ones remind me more of a heavy buckskin. Either way, phenominal grain and patina.  It is an early style Cossack jacket, with a leather waistband and short rounded collar. The front of the jacket has some rare detailing, with yoked shoulders leading to a vertical front seam.  It has handwarmer pockets with flapped top entry pockets.  The handwarmers close with large early production United Carr snaps of a variant I have never seen before. They are trimmed with scalloped stitching. The main zipper is an early (mid 1930s) sunburst stop box Talon which has been repaired at some point with a 1950s slider. The zipper needs to be replaced. The back is yoked, with a half-belt, center seam and decorative pleats. There are stitched eyelets to the underarm panels. The jacket is missing the lining.
Chest (pit to pit): 21-1/2″ (doubled = 43″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 19″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24-1/4″
Length (base of collar to hem): 23″

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1930s Alaskan horsehide jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/401045337942

This vintage leather jacket was made in the mid 1930s by Alaskan from genuine front quarter horse-hide.  It has a pin-lock grommet zipper made by Talon. The jacket has a half-belt, a yoked back and really nicely detailed pleats, which mirror the detailing on the pockets.  There are side adjusters and cuffs with double buttons.

Chest (pit to pit): 20-1/2″ (doubled = 41″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 17″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 23-1/2″
Length (base of collar to hem): 24-1/4″

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Cushman Japan grizzly jacket repro

http://www.ebay.com/itm/401029083718

This vintage jacket was made by high end Japanese repro company, Cushman.  It is based on a mid 1930s Grizzly (Laskinlamb) jacket.  The jacket is made of horsehide leather and sheepskin, with a paneled construction.  It has a Talon zipper, which appears to be a combination of a repro tape and stopbox with a vintage slider. It has a plaid lining, is belted and has grommet reinforcement at the zipper.

Chest (pit to pit): 21″ (doubled = 42″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 18″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24″
Length (base of collar to hem): 25″

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1930s Albert Richard Grizzly jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/272037750012
This vintage jacket was made in Milwaukee, Wisconsin by Fried Ostermann between 1936 and 1938 under the Albert Richard Sportswear label. The jacket is made of front quarter horsehide leather, with mouton panels and collar. Originally sold as a “Laskinlamb jacket”, this style has come to be known by collectors as the Grizzly. These were popular in the mid to late 1930. The jacket has a Talon main zipper with a grommet style stopbox. The slider is of the deco sunburst design with oval slider-to-puller connection, which was only produced in the mid 1930s and which was replaced by a simpler design around 1938. The pull is a rectangular holed, plain backed version, also typical of mid 1930s production. The jacket is lined with plaid wool, with leather pit guards and ventilation grommets. The sleeves have knit storm cuffs to keep out the wind.

Chest (pit to pit): 21″ (doubled = 42″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 18″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 23-1/2″
Length (Base of collar to hem): 21″

A history of Albert Richard which I wrote for “The Art of Vintage Leather Jackets”: Fried-Ostermann was founded c.1902 as a glove manufacturer. They bought out their competitor, Price Gloves, and relocated production of that company’s products to their original factory, located at 617-645 Reed Street, Milwaukee, WI. By 1915, the company had gained a partner, and was known as the Fried, Ostermann, Meyer Co, but that looks to only have lasted until 1917. As the company grew, they relocated to 1645 S. 2nd Street, Milwaukee, WI. Fried-Ostermann diversified out of gloves and into outerwear in the late 1920s with the formation of a new division of the company, called Albert Richard. The leather jackets, mackinaws, overcoats and sportswear produced by Albert Richard would soon come to eclipse the glove-making side of the company. Pre-war advertising stressed health and sports, with endorsements from college football players. These ads also talk about bringing items of clothing which were previously thought of as workwear, like mackinaws and leather jackets, into the realm of ordinary streetwear, citing their comfort and durability. During WWII, the Albert Richard factory made A-2 (contract AC 23383), M-422A (contract 1406A), M444A and M445A flight jackets under the name of their parent company, Fried-Ostermann. They advertised leather jackets, overcoats and sportswear heavily during WWII, giving their jackets model names like the “Spitfire” and the “Meteor”. During the war, the company gave away wall-sized posters showing a range of american military airplanes. 850 workers were employed by Albert r in 1946, with plans to hire another 400. The company was one of the first to use fiberglass insulation in coats, a technology borrowed from b-29 bombers Sheepskin collared “storm coats” became a signature model after the war. President of Fried-Ostermann, Richard Fried, sold their Albert Richard Division to the Drybak corporation of Binghampton, NY in late 1952. Drybak, a maker of canvas hunting clothing was looking to diversify their line. In the deal, they got the licensing, branding, patterns, dealership network, but other than the Vice President and designer for Albert Richard, all of the employees and equipment stayed at the plant in Milwaukee. Fried-Osterman re-focused the attention of their plant on the production of gloves, and on producing leather jackets under house labels for mail order and department stores. Starting in 1953, under Drybak’s ownership, Albert Richard clothing was once again produced, this time under contract at a factory in New Jersey, which Drybak declined to name. The plan at that time was to have production moved to New York by 1954. Labels were changed in this period to read “Albert Richard by Drybak”. In 1955, Drybak acquired the Martin Mfg. Co. in Martin, TN. They closed their Binghamton operations in that same year and relocated their hunting clothing manufacturing and their Albert Richard division to the Tennessee plant to take advantage of the lower labor costs in the south.

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1940s horsehide reinforced wool work jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/401022051961
This vintage work jacket was made immediately after WWII. It is made of mackinaw wool, with leather cuff, sleeve and pocket details, typical of work jackets designed for railroad workers. The jacket has a Crown zip, knit waistband and is unlined.

Chest (pit to pit): 21″ (doubled = 42″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 15-1/2″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff):25-1/2″
Length (base of collar to hem): 25-1/2″

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1950s Harley Davidson Cycle Champ D-Pocket leather motorcycle jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/400994652332
This vintage jacket was made in the 1950s and was sold by Harley Davidson Motor Cycles. It is made of genuine Front Quarter Steerhide leather. The jacket has an asymmetrical motorcycle jacket cut, with a D pocket, zipped breast pocket, zipped side pockets, open zip cuffs and epaulettes. The ends of all the pockets are trimmed and reinforced with four nickel studs. That is doubled on the epaulettes. The jacket has a quilted lining, and Serval zippers throughout. It bears a 1949 Amalgamated Clothing Workers of America union label of the variant used from 1949-1962. The jacket is a dark seal brown.

Tagged size: 40
Chest (pit to pit): 22″ (doubled = 44″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 17″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24″
Length (base of collar to hem): 22″

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