1920s workwear

The man in this original 1920s print from my collection looks surprisingly modern, with his beard, long hair, chunky glasses and rolled up jeans. He could almost be a time traveling hipster.
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Fringed suede leather jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271378703217
This vintage leather jacket was custom tailored in Hong Kong by James S. Lee & Co, Ltd. for Lawrence J Gintner. It was probably made in the 1970s, and is brown suede, in a mod double breasted cut with ticket pocket. The back yoke and sleeves are fringed. The jacket has a blue and brown paisley lining. It has double vents.

Chest (pit to pit): 22″
Shoulder to shoulder: 18″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 23″
Length: 27-1/2″

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1940s Patrick Duluth zipper mackinaw

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271378671133
This vintage hunting coat was made by the F.A. Patrick Woolen Mills of Duluth, Minnesota in the late 1940s. It is an evolution / update of the traditional mackinaw form, made by the originators of the mackinaw style. It has a zipper front, with flapped breast and hip pockets, and slash handwarmers on the chest. There is rear access to an internal game pouch. The coat has a mustard colored lining of the same sort used by Woolrich on their line of hunting coats. The main zip is of the style used in the mid 1940s, with a square cornered puller. The game pocket zippers are of the rounded corner type which began to be used around 1947. This overlap likely puts the date around 1947 or 1948.

Chest (pit to pit): 24″ (doubled = 48″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 20″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 25-1/2″
Length: 27″

A bit about the company, from a history piece I wrote for “The Fedora Lounge”
: The F.A. Patrick Company, proprietors of the Patrick-Duluth Woolen Mills of Duluth, Minnesota were responsible for taking the Mackinaw coat out of lumber camps of western Canada and introducing them to students, workmen and athletes across the United States. Early on, the Patrick Company were jobbers, making dry goods, primarily for clients in the Northwest of the United States in Canada. In 1901, Patrick began buying fabric from a Scandinavian mackinaw cloth factory in Fosston, Minnesota. In 1906, seeing potential, Patrick bought that factory and began making their own Mackinaw cloth, eventually becoming one of its leading producers. The fabric and the coats made from it were popular with miners, fur trappers, lumberjacks and hunters.

In 1912, Patrick launched a new, refined mackinaw design. It was double breasted, belted and sported a collar described in the ads of the period as a “nansen” collar. Though the term also existed then, we now refer to this style as a shawl collar. The coat was 35″ long and was available in 24 and 32 oz wool mackinaw cloth, in a wide variety of colors. Salesman Harry Harrington began to pitch the Patrick Mackinaw to clothiers in college towns. “It was not long after that that mackinaws became a fad with students generally, and as the college student invariably sets the styles for young men’s clothing, it quickly spread over the whole country”. The early mackinaw trend was marketed in a similar way to the current workwear trend, trading on the rugged associations of the workers for whom the garment was originally designed. The mackinaw fad boomed, and shortly, a number of other manufacturers sprung onto the scene, producing mackinaws of varying quality from a variety of cloths. Large quantities of Patrick mackinaws were sold through such high end stores as Brooks Brothers, Rogers Peet, Wannamaker, Abercrombie and Fitch, Brokaw Brothers, and A. Raymond.
It is around this 1912-1913 period where the name “Mackinaw” begins to be more associated with the short, double breasted, shawl collar style, and less with the mackinaw cloth material from which it was made. The fad lasted about a year and a half. Patrick could not keep up with the growing demand caused by the collegiate fad, and the inferior fabric quality of some competitors led to the downfall of this first-wave craze.

Seeing the end of the craze, Patrick-Duluth re-branded its mackinaw once again, refining its pattern and marketing it to farmers, children, hunters and outdoorsmen, workers, and sportsmen. Its durability, warmth, low price compared to comparable overcoats or sheeplined coats, made it an easy sell to these markets. Alongside sheeplined canvas coats, Patrick Mackinaws became the de-facto winter coat of railroad employees. To further expand the market, patterns were made for men and women, boys and girls. Patrick intensified their national advertising, placing ads in the Saturday Evening Post, Country Gentleman, Farm Journal, Woman’s World, American Boy, Youth’s Companion, Boy’s Life, and many more. The name of the product was shortened from “Patrick-Duluth Woolen Mill Mackinaw” to simply “Patrick”, in a bid to make their brand name the generic trade name on the market, thereby foiling the business of competitors. Their slogan “Bigger than Weather” was penned by Elbert Hubbard. Ads were illustrated by Peter Newell and Clare Briggs. In the years between 1911 and 1914, Patrick had quadrupled its production, expanding from their two story mill to a six story mill on Duluth habror, a garment factory in Duluth, and knitting and spinning mills in Mankato, MN.

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1950s Rice Sportswear Coureur De Bois blanket mackinaw

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281249717086
This vintage mackinaw coat was made in Canada in the 1950s by Rice Sportswear under the Coureur de Bois label. Although made with blankets from a different woolen mill, the styling is nearly identical to what was being produced and sold by the Hudson’s Bay Company at the time. These striped blanket mackinaws were, and are, a Canadian icon, as well as being stylish and practical. The blanket pattern on this one has a red background, with a broad black stripe and a skinnier black stripe. It is double breasted and belted, with handwarmer pockets on the chest and patch pockets on the hip, in the traditional manner. It is fully lined, with an excellent graphic on the label. While the tag is stamped, “38”, with a 52″ chest measurement, I would say this would probably fit a size 44 or 46 better. Tagged sizes are notoriously unreliable. For the best fit, compare the provided measurements with a coat you own which you feel fits well.

Chest (pit to pit): 26″ (doubled = 52″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 19″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 26″
Length: 35″

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Brown and Camel Hudson’s Bay point blanket coat

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271378596257
This vintage mackinaw coat was made by the Hudson’s Bay Company in the 1940s from their iconic point blankets. This is a particularly rare model, made in a tan point blanket, instead of the more typical red and black or multi-stripe. It has the classic mackinaw cut: double breasted, belted, with patch pockets on the hips and handwarmers on the chest. The lining of the coat is a transitional style, which helps date it. Generally, mackinaw coats like this made in the 1920s and 1930s were completely unlined. In the 1940s, half linings like this one has started to come into fashion. By the 1950s, most were fully lined. The original owner’s name. “G. Lasker” is written in the lining.

Chest (pit to pit): 22″
Shoulder to shoulder: 18″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 25-3/4″
Length: 34″

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1920s Summers Mfg. Co hunting jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281248854858
This vintage hunting jacket was made in the 1920s by Summers Manufacturing Company, Incorporated. Summers had a factory at 746 South Los Angeles Street, Los Angeles, California, and specialized in khaki clothing, both hunting and workwear. This jacket has all the best details of the hunting jackets of the period. It has a large breast pocket (the size of most jacket’s cargo pockets) with a smaller pocket overtop, both of which share the same flap. The hip pockets are equally cavernous, and are cut with round edges. The coat is a double thickness, with an internal game pocket. It is accessible the traditional way, by flaps on the back of the coat. It is also accessible by an opening located under the second button of the front, known, especially on hunting vests, as a “half-moon” pocket. On these earlier coats, it hadn’t taken on the half-moon shape in full, opting instead to have the button button through for extra security. The underarms are gusseted and have ventilation grommets. The collar is corduroy, with the cuffs lined in the same cord.
The Tate Company changed their name to the “Tate Electrolytic Textile Process” in 1920, establishing the earliest year of manufacture. The company appears to have gone out of business in the mid 1920s, providing a range of about five years during which this jacket could have been made.

Chest (pit to pit): 21″
Shoulder to shoulder: 17-1/2″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 23″
Length: 28″

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c.1946 half-belt leather jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281248820993
This vintage leather jacket was made immediately post-war, around 1946 or 1947. It feels like horsehide, but without a label to confirm, it’s possible that it’s steer. It has square yoked shoulders, handwarmer pockets on the chest, and flapped pockets on the hips. The back has a half-belt and pleats. The zipper is a Talon of the type used just after the war, with a pre-war style “small hole” pull tab and a U-shaped stop box stamped with the Talon name. The makers tag is long gone, but the original owner’s name, John Meinel, has been sewn into the lining by the collar.

Chest (pit to pit): 22″
Shoulder to shoulder: 18″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24″
Length (base of collar to hem): 27″

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