1930s Great Western brown belt-back overcoat

Posted on March 28, 2015 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271811754007
This vintage overcoat was made in the 1930s by the Great Western Tailoring Company of Chicago, Illinois – The Pioneer Line. It is made of brown wool, with a double breasted cut, horizontal peak lapels, a breast pocket and belted back. The coat is half-lined, as was typical of overcoats of this era. heavy moth holes to hem. Moth bite by left pocket. Stain on left sleeve

Chest (pit to pit): 21″ (doubled = 42″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 18″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 26-1/2″
Length (Base of collar to hem): 43″

Japanese reproduction 1930s Joe McCoy horsehide halfbelt leather jacket

Posted on March 23, 2015 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281632536165
This jacket was made in Japan by high-end vintage repro company, Real McCoys under the Joe McCoy & Co. Leather Clothing Sportswear label. Though made in Japan, for authenticity to original 1930s jackets, the label reads, “styled and tailored in Buffalo, NY”. The plaid lined pocketbag bears the union label of the now defunct United Garment Workers of America. It is made from black front quarter horsehide. The jacket is a 1930s cossack style, with a pleated, belted back, bi-swing shoulders, d-ring side adjuster belts, deco buttons, a Talon zipper with deco stopbox, pin-lock slider and reinforcement grommets, and a Talon marked ball zipper on the breast pocket. Although the tape, teeth and slider are all in excellent condition, the slider won’t currently engage the teeth. The jacket has a burgundy lining. This jacket, though a few seasons old, is very close to McCoy’s current “Steinbeck” model, which retails for 194,000 yen, roughly equivalent to $1600 USD.

Chest (pit to pit): 20″ (doubled = 40″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 17″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 23-1/2″
Length (base of collar to hem): 21″

1930s Belt-Back Hudson’s Bay Company Point Blanket Mackinaw Coat

Posted on March 23, 2015 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281632159457
This vintage coat was made in the mid 1930s from English-made Hudson’s Bay Company point blanket wool. The coat is a classic double breasted mackinaw cut, with the points prominently displayed. The coat has a fancy back, with a scalloped yoke and center pleat with flanking pleats. The cuffs have button adjusters in the black contrast portion of the blanket fabric. As is typical of mackinaws of this period, the coat is unlined with taped seams. It features the Hudson’s Bay crest used in the late 1920s-1930s. With the particular usage of the black portion of the blanket for trimming the pockets and cuffs, as well as the raw hem, a holdover from capote stylings, I would guess the manufacturer of this particular coat as Congress Sportswear, which would have used the Maine Guide label.

Chest (pit to pit): 23″ (doubled = 46″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 18-1/2″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 23″
Length (base of collar to hem): 34″

1940s gabardine half-belt jacket

Posted on February 22, 2015 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271783149533
This vintage jacket was made in the mid-late 1940s. It is gabardine, made in a waist length utility jacket style, with a half-belt back with a center pleat, straight yoke and side adjuster buckles. The jacket has a Talon main zipper, with a square cornered slider and U shaped Talon stopbox, which was produced in the immediate post-war years. The jacket is fully lined, and does not have a label.

Chest (pit to pit): 21-1/2″ (doubled = 43″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 18-1/2″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24″
Length (base of collar to hem): 24-1/2″

Georgetown Leather Design half-belt leather jacket

Posted on February 17, 2015 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271771686941
This vintage leather jacket was made by Georgetown Leather Design. This was made in the late 1960s in the early days of Georgetown Leather Design, a high-end DC area leather company, before they opened their other area locations in the early 1970s and changed their label. The jacket is made in a half-belt cossack style, popular from about 1935 to the late 1950s. By the 1960s, most manufacturers producing this silhouette had changed the dimensions and detailing, however this one plays it completely straight, and other than the label and quilted lining, it could easily pass for one made nearly 30 years prior. It is made in heavy leather, probably steerhide, with a wonderful patina. The main zip is a brass Talon, as is the pocket zipper. The jacket has scaloped cuffs, a belted back, bi-swing shoulders, and a short, trim cut.

Chest (pit to pit): 22″ (doubled = 44″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 18-1/2″
Waist: 19″ (doubled = 38″)
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff):21-3/4″
Length (base of collar to hem): 23-3/8″

1960s Brent half-belt leather jacket

Posted on January 12, 2015 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281560918807
This vintage leather jacket was made in the 1960s for Montgomery Ward under their Brent label. It is a classic half-belt cossack leather jacket style, popular from the 1930s-1960s. While it is not labeled, with its heavier weight, this feels like a steerhide rather than horsehide. This one has a larger Talon zipper than earlier models, as well as a quilted nylon lining. These are rare to find in larger sizes like this, and even rarer to find in such good condition.

Tagged size: 44
Chest (pit to pit): 26″ (doubled = 52″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 21″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24-3/4″
Length (base of collar to hem): 25″

1940s John Rissman wool windbreaker jacket

Posted on January 12, 2015 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281504281555
This vintage jacket was made in Chicago c.1947 by John Rissman & Son under the Windbreaker label. It is made of a brown wool material with an alpaca pile-like napped surface. It has a transitional Talon zipper with a wartime style pull and a post-war style stopbox, which helps date it with a good degree of accuracy to the years immediately after WWII. The jacket is a cossack style, with a pleated and belted back and handwarmer pockets. The jacket has a quilted lining and bears the union label of the United Garment Workers of America.

Chest (pit to pit): 24″ (doubled = 48″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 20″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24″
Length (base of collar to hem): 24-1/2″

1940s John Rissman gabardine windbreaker jacket

Posted on January 12, 2015 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271727711431
This vintage jacket was made in Chicago c.1948 by John Rissman & Son under the Windbreaker label. It is made of a khaki wool gabardine. It has a Talon zipper with a Talon marked stopbox and square cornered slider, which helps to date it. The jacket is a cossack style, with a pleated and belted back and handwarmer pockets. The jacket bears a rare half-scale variant of the union label of the United Garment Workers of America.

Chest (pit to pit): 21″ (doubled = 42″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 17″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 25″
Length (base of collar to hem): 24-1/2″

1930s Sam Stark half-belt

Posted on November 23, 2014 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271680370513
This jacket was made in the late 1930s-early 1940s and was sold in Cheyenne, Wyoming by Sam Stark. The jacket is a waist length, button front half-belt cossack style, with handwarmer pockets and side adjuster belts. The original buttons probably would have been brown bakelite or corozo, but were replaced sometime in the 1940s with metal military Wyoming state seal buttons. The backs of these buttons are marked “Superior Quality”. The cuffs do up with snap-belt adjusters. Inside one of the pockets I found an empty pack of Kool cigarettes with a 1944 copyright and a series 120 Dewitt Clinton tax stamp, dating the pack to 1950, and also helping set a probable date for the last time this jacket was worn.

Chest (pit to pit): 22″ (doubled = 44″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 18-1/2″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24-1/2″
Length (base of collar to hem): 23″

Ralph Lauren Suede Half-belt leather jacket

Posted on November 18, 2014 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281501850469
This jacket was made by Ralph Lauren under the Polo label. It is made of brown suede leather in style heavily influenced by 1930s half-belt cossack work jackets. The jacket is zipper front, with a straight front yoke, and handwarmer pockets. The back is belted with side adjuster belts. The jacket has a tartan lining. With a 52″ chest, this would best fit someone in the size 46-48 range.

Chest (pit to pit): 26″ (doubled = 52″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 21″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24-1/2″
Length (Base of collar to hem): 28″

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Tag Archives: half belt

1930s Great Western brown belt-back overcoat

Japanese reproduction 1930s Joe McCoy horsehide halfbelt leather jacket

1930s Belt-Back Hudson’s Bay Company Point Blanket Mackinaw Coat

1940s gabardine half-belt jacket

Georgetown Leather Design half-belt leather jacket

1960s Brent half-belt leather jacket

1940s John Rissman wool windbreaker jacket

1940s John Rissman gabardine windbreaker jacket

1930s Sam Stark half-belt

Ralph Lauren Suede Half-belt leather jacket