Early 1930s cut down Cossack Jacket

Posted on July 21, 2015 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271934443374
This vintage jacket was made in the early 1930s, probably between about 1930 and 1934. This style, with the plain back, side panels with buckle adjusters, leather waistband and small patch pockets, was one of the first jacket styles to become popular following the invention of the separable bottomed zipper in 1930. The jacket has a buttoned throat latch / chinstrap, and while the zipper is a 1950s Conmar, replacing what would likely have been a double branded Hookless/Talon, the grommets from the original zip are still in place at the waistband.

Chest (pit to pit): 18″ (doubled = 36″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 15″
Length (base of collar to hem): 23-1/2″

Late 1940s H Bar C gabardine belt-back western suit

Posted on June 19, 2015 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/400940800660
This vintage suit was made in the mid-late 1940s by H Bar C of California. It is made of wool gabardine, with a waist length cossack style jacket, with a half-belt back, handwarmer pockets, breast pocket and talon main zipper. The pants are western in style.

Chest (pit to pit): 21-1/4″ (doubled = 42-1/2″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 18″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 22-1/2″
Length (Base of collar to hem): 24-1/2″

Waist (side to side): 15″ (doubled = 30″)
Inseam: 29″
Outseam: 39″
Rise: 10″

1950s Penney’s Sportclad gabardine jacket

Posted on March 28, 2015 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281644153631
This vintage jacket was made in the early 1950s for Penney’s under the Sportclad label. It is made of khaki colored wool gabardine, with elastic side panels for a neat silhouette, an evolution of the half-belt and side adjuster buckes of 1930s jackets of a similar style. The jacket has a Talon zipper, with the deep grooved, unmarked U shaped stop box which was used in the early 1950s.

Chest (pit to pit): 23″ (doubled = 46″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 19″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 23″
Length (base of collar to hem): 24-3/8″

Georgetown Leather Design half-belt leather jacket

Posted on February 17, 2015 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271771686941
This vintage leather jacket was made by Georgetown Leather Design. This was made in the late 1960s in the early days of Georgetown Leather Design, a high-end DC area leather company, before they opened their other area locations in the early 1970s and changed their label. The jacket is made in a half-belt cossack style, popular from about 1935 to the late 1950s. By the 1960s, most manufacturers producing this silhouette had changed the dimensions and detailing, however this one plays it completely straight, and other than the label and quilted lining, it could easily pass for one made nearly 30 years prior. It is made in heavy leather, probably steerhide, with a wonderful patina. The main zip is a brass Talon, as is the pocket zipper. The jacket has scaloped cuffs, a belted back, bi-swing shoulders, and a short, trim cut.

Chest (pit to pit): 22″ (doubled = 44″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 18-1/2″
Waist: 19″ (doubled = 38″)
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff):21-3/4″
Length (base of collar to hem): 23-3/8″

Levis Vintage Clothing HomeRun Moleskin Worker Jacket

Posted on January 24, 2015 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281574492886
This jacket was made by Levis Vintage Clothing as part of their Fall / Winter 2014 “Metropolis” lineup. The official model description is the Levi’s Vintage Homerun Moleskin worker jacket. The tag reads, ” HomeRun Double-Tex Suedette “.
Though the line is described as reproductions of clothes made “circa 1940”, this style of shawl collar, button front jacket was popular from about 1928-1933. These days, it is often referred to as an A-1 style by collectors because of the button front. While it shares a common stylistic ancestor with that knit collared model, the two are divergent lines. When originally produced, these were referred to as Cossack Jackets. That name was later applied to the belt-backed leather jackets of the mid 1930s onward. Through other current productions of the style, it has also become known as the “Menlo” or the “Heron” after specific model names. The Home-Run label was originally used by Levi Strauss from the mid 1920s through to about 1940 for a line of children’s and teenager’s clothing. Levi’s Vintage Clothing resurrected the label design for the some of 1930s workwear reproductions in this Metropolis line. It is a very nice reproduction of the style, made in a durable moleskin cotton. The jacket has a seven button front, with small flapped pockets. It has a shawl collar, and triangular side panels with belt adjusters. The belt’s buckles are reproductions of vintage hammered style hardware. As is typical of this style of jacket, it us unlined. It has ventilation grommets and shirt style cuffs. With a 42″ chest, this would best fit a size 38.

Tagged Size: Men’s Medium
Chest (pit to pit): 21″ (doubled = 42″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 18″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24-3/4″
Length (base of collar to hem): 24-1/4″

1940s John Rissman wool windbreaker jacket

Posted on January 12, 2015 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281504281555
This vintage jacket was made in Chicago c.1947 by John Rissman & Son under the Windbreaker label. It is made of a brown wool material with an alpaca pile-like napped surface. It has a transitional Talon zipper with a wartime style pull and a post-war style stopbox, which helps date it with a good degree of accuracy to the years immediately after WWII. The jacket is a cossack style, with a pleated and belted back and handwarmer pockets. The jacket has a quilted lining and bears the union label of the United Garment Workers of America.

Chest (pit to pit): 24″ (doubled = 48″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 20″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24″
Length (base of collar to hem): 24-1/2″

1940s John Rissman gabardine windbreaker jacket

Posted on January 12, 2015 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271727711431
This vintage jacket was made in Chicago c.1948 by John Rissman & Son under the Windbreaker label. It is made of a khaki wool gabardine. It has a Talon zipper with a Talon marked stopbox and square cornered slider, which helps to date it. The jacket is a cossack style, with a pleated and belted back and handwarmer pockets. The jacket bears a rare half-scale variant of the union label of the United Garment Workers of America.

Chest (pit to pit): 21″ (doubled = 42″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 17″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 25″
Length (base of collar to hem): 24-1/2″

King-O-Wear workwear jacket

Posted on January 11, 2015 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271737229397
This vintage work jacket was made by King-O-Wear. It is a waist length style, made in black wool, with buckle adjuster sides, handwarmer pockets, a zipper front and grommet reinforcements for a badge. This style goes back to the 1930s, but this example was likely produced in the 1960s. As is consistent with earlier production examples of this style, the jacket is unlined. The 1949 union label and the Talon zipper on this helps to date this one. While the pull on the zipper goes back to the 1930s on luggage, its usage on jackets did not start until later. The stop-box is of the type which started use in the late 1950s. The union label is a half-scale variant which I have only seen used by King-O-Wear.

Tagged size: 48
Chest (pit to pit): 25-1/2″
Shoulder to shoulder: 18-1/2″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 25″
Length (base of collar to hem): 25″

Ralph Lauren reproduction half-belt jacket

Posted on November 12, 2014 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281494822773
This jacket was made by Ralph Lauren under the Polo label. It is made of gray wool in a 1930s half-belt cossack work jacket style. The jacket is zipper front, with handwarmer pockets and a zipper breast pocket. The back is belted and yoked with side adjuster belts. The jacket has a tartan lining. With a 50″ chest, this would best fit someone in the size 44-46 range.

Chest (pit to pit): 25″ (doubled = 50″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 21″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 26″
Length (Base of collar to hem): 29″

1930s capeskin half-belt cossack jacket

Posted on April 28, 2014 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271469478475
This vintage leather jacket was made around 1936. It is made of lightweight capeskin leather, with a perforated Ostrich grain texture, popular briefly in 1936 and 1937. The jacket is an early cossack style, with a leather waistband and D-stitched pockets. The back is belted, with side adjusters, and is pleated. Cuffs are adjustable with two buttons. The jacket has an early Talon riveted “grommet” zipper, a style which started production in 1930, and continued through the 1930s. This one is missing its original slider, though at this date of manufacturer, it probably had a Talon branded fantail style slider. The jacket has a transitional half-lining. While it is constructed like the unlined leather jackets of the early 1930s, it is lined in the shoulders and sleeves. The lining remains, but it has shredded at most of the points where it attaches to the leather itself.

Chest (pit to pit): 20″ (doubled = 40″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 16-1/2″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24″
Length (base of collar to hem):22″

Photos from 1936 and 1937 Sears catalog, showing similar Sears Hercules ostrich grained models. Jacket is similar to models in advertisements, though differs in back pleat detailing.

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