http://www.ebay.com/itm/401086909318
Tag Archives: pleated back
1930s-1940s capeskin aviator jacket
http://www.ebay.com/itm/272084670975
1930s Belt-Back Hudson’s Bay Company Point Blanket Mackinaw Coat
http://www.ebay.com/itm/281632159457
This vintage coat was made in the mid 1930s from English-made Hudson’s Bay Company point blanket wool. The coat is a classic double breasted mackinaw cut, with the points prominently displayed. The coat has a fancy back, with a scalloped yoke and center pleat with flanking pleats. The cuffs have button adjusters in the black contrast portion of the blanket fabric. As is typical of mackinaws of this period, the coat is unlined with taped seams. It features the Hudson’s Bay crest used in the late 1920s-1930s. With the particular usage of the black portion of the blanket for trimming the pockets and cuffs, as well as the raw hem, a holdover from capote stylings, I would guess the manufacturer of this particular coat as Congress Sportswear, which would have used the Maine Guide label.
Chest (pit to pit): 23″ (doubled = 46″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 18-1/2″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 23″
Length (base of collar to hem): 34″
1930s Jack Frost Coat plaid double breasted mackinaw
http://www.ebay.com/itm/281559063886
This vintage coat was made in the 1930s by Jack Frost outerwear. It is made of red black and gray plaid mackinaw wool. The coat is double breasted, with handwarmers and flapped cargo pockets. It has a pleated, belted back. As is typical of these early production mackinaws, the coat is heavy-weight and unlined.
Chest (pit to pit): 24″ (doubled = 48″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 19″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24-1/2″
Length (base of collar to hem): 30-1/2″
1950s Italian Navy bridge coat
http://www.ebay.com/itm/271722668680
This vintage overcoat was made in Italy for the Italian Navy. While it appears to have been produced in the 1950s from the label, save for the gold anchor buttons, the silhouette, with its sharp peak lapels, belted and pleated back, and nipped waist have a distinctly 1930s look. Switch out the gold buttons for black plastic and you have the perfect pre-war civilian overcoat.
Chest (pit to pit): 22″ (doubled = 44″)
Shoulder to shoulder:20-1/2″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24″
Length (base of collar to hem): 42″
Scotts Gray Ltd. beltback pleated jacket
http://www.ebay.com/itm/271712606933
This vintage jacket was made in Yugoslavia in the late 1970s and was sold by Scotts Gray Ltd. It is made in a 1920s belt-back style, with double patch breast pockets, high button stance, triple pleated pockets, fancy pleated back and belted back. The jacket is made in a flecked corduroy similar to what was sold in the 1920s-1930s as Tweederoy.
Chest (pit to pit): 22″ (doubled = 44″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 18″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 26″
Length (base of collar to hem): 31″
1930s Pritzker Air-O-Coat leather cossack jacket
http://www.ebay.com/itm/281350510684
This vintage leather jacket was made c.1936-1937 by A. Pritzker & Sons, Inc. of Boston, MA. The jacket is a Cossack style, with a fancy belted back. The 3/4 zip with 1/4 button detailing, borrowed from “Gaucho” style shirts of the period, enjoyed a brief stint of popularity in 1936-1937 before falling out of favor. Pritzker & Sons was owned by Aaron Pritzker and had a factory at 1020 Washington Street, Boston, MA. They are probably now best known for their USN G-1 flight jackets, although prior to WWII, they were a prolific maker of civilian styles. This one was sold as the “Air-O-Coat”, conjuring up the romantic imagery of 1930s aviators.
The jacket has an early Talon Hookless style grommet zipper.. The jacket is lightweight and partially lined, as is typical of these early windbreaker styles. The shoulder yoke is lined, as are the cuffs. It has a half-belt back with one of the fanciest pleated back styles I’ve seen. Pockets are D-style due to the unlined construction.
The jacket was bought by Bucky Wadon around 1937. Wadon played football, hockey and baseball during the 1930s and served in WWII.
With a 42″ chest measurement, this would best fit someone who wears a size 36 or 38 jacket. The sleeves are uncommonly long for most jackets I’ve found from this era, perfect for the taller guy. The leather is still soft and supple and the jacket is still very wearable.
Chest (pit to pit): 21″ (doubled = 42″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 18″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 25-1/2″
Length (base of collar to hem): 20″
1930s Milcraft Clothes belted overcoat
http://www.ebay.com/itm/281279971937
This vintage overcoat was made in the mid 1930s by Milcraft Clothes of St. Paul, Minnesota. It is double breasted, with a full belt, patch pockets, cuffed sleeves, a breast pocket, and a fancy yoked, pleated back. As is typical of overcoats of this period, it is half-lined. Unfortunately, there are no union tags or tailor’s tags, but the particular details, style of the Millcraft label, and style and cut of the coat allow for fairly close dating. Pocket square not included.
Chest (pit to pit): 24″ (doubled = 48″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 19″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 26-1/2″
Length: 49″
1930s “Wear Well Clothes” Overcoat
http://www.ebay.com/itm/271093599332