HSM belt-back tweed suit

Posted on May 14, 2014 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281336529153
This vintage suit was made in the late 1960s-early 1970s by Hart Schaffner & Marx during a brief revival of 1930s belt-back styles. While many from this period have scalloped pocket flaps and other 1970s detailing, this one plays it very close to the originals. It is made of brown wool tweed with a rust colored overcheck. It has patch pockets, and a belted, pleated back. The jacket is half-lined.

Chest (pit to pit): 22″ (doubled = 44″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 18″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 25″
Length (base of collar to hem): 30-1/2″

Pants
Waist: 17″ (doubled = 34″)
Inseam: 29-1/4″, 2″ to let out
Outseam: 41″
Thigh: 12″
Knee: 9-3/4″
Cuff: 10″

1920s Red Head Hunting vest

Posted on May 11, 2014 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271478366338
This vintage hunting vest was made in the 1920s by the Red Head Brand, a premier maker of hunting garments at the time. It is an early style, high buttoning cut, with a six button front. It has canvas, closed bottomed shotgun shell loops, another hallmark of earlier manufacture hunting vests. There are loops for 38 shotgun shells on the front, and loops for another 23 on the back.
This has the earliest Red Head brand label I have yet to see. It is significantly larger than later labels, with a much more detailed duck. It reads Trade Mark Registered at the top, while labels from the 1930s and early 1940s read , “reg. us. pat. off”, and ones from the mid-late 1940s had the (R) symbol.

Chest (pit to pit):19″ (doubled = 38″)

1930s capeskin half-belt cossack jacket

Posted on April 28, 2014 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271469478475
This vintage leather jacket was made around 1936. It is made of lightweight capeskin leather, with a perforated Ostrich grain texture, popular briefly in 1936 and 1937. The jacket is an early cossack style, with a leather waistband and D-stitched pockets. The back is belted, with side adjusters, and is pleated. Cuffs are adjustable with two buttons. The jacket has an early Talon riveted “grommet” zipper, a style which started production in 1930, and continued through the 1930s. This one is missing its original slider, though at this date of manufacturer, it probably had a Talon branded fantail style slider. The jacket has a transitional half-lining. While it is constructed like the unlined leather jackets of the early 1930s, it is lined in the shoulders and sleeves. The lining remains, but it has shredded at most of the points where it attaches to the leather itself.

Chest (pit to pit): 20″ (doubled = 40″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 16-1/2″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24″
Length (base of collar to hem):22″

Photos from 1936 and 1937 Sears catalog, showing similar Sears Hercules ostrich grained models. Jacket is similar to models in advertisements, though differs in back pleat detailing.

1920s shotgun shell canvas hunting vest

Posted on April 28, 2014 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271469007778
This vintage hunting vest was made in the 1920s. It is made of brown canvas, with a five button front. There is a buttonhole at the back of the neckline, which I have not seen before on other vests. I wonder if it was there to attach something to the vest (or the vest to something else, like a jacket), or if it was there to hang the vest by? The vest has closed bottomed, canvas shotgun shell loops, which are typical of these early manufacture vests. At some point the vest was taken in, then let back out. The front buttons have been moved slightly from their original position to make the vest a smidge larger. Since garments like this were purely utilitarian, it wouldn’t be uncommon for them to be passed down from one generation to the next. I wonder if these modifications were made as the original owner lost and put on weight, or if they were done for a different owner?

Chest (pit to pit): 18-1/2″ (doubled = 37″)
Length: 19-1/2″

1930s William Paul Brodt Washington DC cowboy hat

Posted on April 28, 2014 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281321530173
This vintage cowboy hat was made in the 1930s by G.W. Alexander & Co. of Reading, PA. It was sold as a house-branded hat by William Paul Brodt Inc., one of the premier hat sellers and manufacturers of Washington DC. They were located at 509 11th St, NW, and sold hats to many of the major politicians of the day. The hat is blocked on a San Fran Sr. block. It has a wide brim and a three cord ribbon. It is labeled “The Elk Brand Hat”, a line sold by Brodt’s.

Size: 7-1/4
Brim Width: 4″
Ribbon Width: 1/2″
Crown Height: 5-1/2″

Ralph Lauren linesman jacket reproduction

Posted on April 28, 2014 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271469042655
This jacket was made by Ralph Lauren in 2006 as a sample. It is mid 1930s utility jacket style, termed by RL as a “Linesman’s Jacket”. Like originals, it has curved, slanted patch pockets and a zipper breast pocket. It has side adjuster belts with deco floral patterned buckles. There is a buttoned tab at the waistband. There is a Conmar grommet zipper, in the style of the original 1930s hardware. Cuffs are lined with corduroy, and the jacket is unlined. The buttons have been replaced with original 1930s catseye buttons.

Chest (pit to pit): 23″
Shoulder to shoulder: 19″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24-1/2″
Length (base of collar to hem): 23″

1930s canvas hunting cap

Posted on April 28, 2014 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271469093705
This vintage canvas hunting cap was made in the 1930s. This one has seen some heavy use, with fading to the canvas. It has internal earflaps, and a back brim which can flip down to protect your neck in the rain.
Size: 7-1/4
Brim Width: 2-1/2″ front, 2-1/4″ back

1930s studded, jeweled western belt

Posted on April 27, 2014 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271467971976
This vintage leather western belt was made in the 1930s. It is made of a natural colored leather with a geometric (squares over octagons) tooled pattern. It has a double prong garrison style buckle. As was popular with western belts of the period, it is embellished with jewels and studs. It is faintly marked “Genuine Full Grain Cowhide Bridle” on the back. This is a rare example of one of the earlier designs of this style.

Sizing (remember to take measurement over pants)
Length to first set of holes: 30-1/2″
Length to last set of holes: 33-1/2″
Belt Width: 1-3/4″

1920s point blanket Carss Mackinaw coat

Posted on April 25, 2014 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281318812696
This vintage mackinaw coat was made in Orillia, Ontario in the 1920s or 1930s by the Carss Mackinaw company. It is made of striped point blanket material, with four patch pockets and a belted back. It has a squared off shawl collar, and caped shoulders, both distinctively Carss details. The coat is unlined, as is typical of mackinaws of this era.

Chest (pit to pit): 25″ (doubled = 50″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 19″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24″
Length: 30-1/2″

A bit about the company, from a history piece I wrote for “The Fedora Lounge”: Carss Mackinaw made blanket coats in Orillia, Ontario from at least 1897. Their signature model was single breasted with caped shoulders and a squared-off shawl collar. They are most commonly seen in red, green, and khaki, all with a blanket stripe at the base. The fabric used in these coats was advertised as a whopping 44oz (although this one feels lighter), and was sourced from a variety of trade blanket manufacturers, including Hudson’s Bay and the Bird Woolen Mills. They were advertised as “The Only Genuine Mackinaw Made In Canada”. They were retailed by the Hudson’s Bay Company, as well as other stores.

1960s does 1920s one-piece swimsuit

Posted on April 25, 2014 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271465674232
This vintage one piece swimsuit was made in the 1960s, part of a short lived revival of 1920s mens swimsuit styles. It is a copy of a one piece 1920s style, with a blue top, striped bottom and a white belt. Unlike the originals, which were made of wool, this one is made of nylon. It was never sold or worn, and still has the original tags. It is tagged a size medium

Waist (unstretched): 14″ (doubled = 28″)
Waist (Stretched): 20″ (doubled = 40″)
Crotch to shoulder, unstretched: 26″
Inseam: 3″
Outseam (from seam between top and bottom): 10″

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Tag Archives: 1930s

HSM belt-back tweed suit

1920s Red Head Hunting vest

1930s capeskin half-belt cossack jacket

1920s shotgun shell canvas hunting vest

1930s William Paul Brodt Washington DC cowboy hat

Ralph Lauren linesman jacket reproduction

1930s canvas hunting cap

1930s studded, jeweled western belt

1920s point blanket Carss Mackinaw coat

1960s does 1920s one-piece swimsuit