m1926 army Mackinaw

Posted on January 13, 2014 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271371253018
This vintage coat is an extremely rare pre-war m-1926 army mackinaw (short overcoat). It is double breasted, with a wide shawl collar and large flapped patch pockets. As was typical of early shawl collared mackinaw coats, both military and civilian, it is unlined. The updated version of this coat issued in WWII featured a lining. This pre-war pattern was commonly seen on Civilian Conservation Corps enrollees. Based on the 43″ chest measurement, this would fit best in the 36 to 38 size range.

Chest (pit to pit): 21-1/2″ (doubled = 43″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 16-1/2″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 25″
Length: 33″

1920s Hudson’s Bay Company point blanket coat

Posted on January 13, 2014 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281244175192

This vintage mackinaw coat was made in the 1920s. It is tailored from red and black Hudson’s Bay Company point blankets, in a classic double breasted cut. The coat is belted, with flapped hip pockets and slash handwarmers on the chest. The belt has buttons instead of a buckle, a typically 1920s detail. As with most mackinaws of this era, this example is unlined, with finished interior seams. This blanket material was highly sought after in this era for serious outdoorsmen. Upgrading to point blanket material over standard mackinaw wool could almost double the price.

Chest (pit to pit): 20-1/2″
Shoulder to shoulder: 16″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 23-1/2″
Length: 27″

Shawl collar Jeffrey Banks x Lakeland mackinaw

Posted on January 12, 2014 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271370344153
This vintage coat was made by Lakeland. It is a 1920s- 1930s mackinaw style, with a shawl collar, buttoned patch pockets and a waist belt. This style was popularized in the 1910s by the Patrick mackinaw company of Duluth. They had a second boom in the 1920s-1930s as workwear, especially with railroad men. The simpler styling and navy blue wool of this one is more consistent with the 1920s-1930s ones.
It was designed by Jeffrey Banks in the late 1970s, and is a very good reproduction. Comparing it to originals in my collection from the era, it’s very close in terms of styling and cut. The interior of the coat is the real giveaway. While most of the originals were unlined, this has a luxurious quilted liner.

Chest (pit to pit): 24″ (doubled = 48″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 19″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24-1/2″
Length: 32″

Also see:

https://vintagehaberdashers.com/2013/12/16/jeffrey-banks-lakeland-shawl-collar-mackinaw/

https://vintagehaberdashers.com/2013/12/31/jeffrey-banks-lakeland-blanket-coat/

1920s point blanket Carss Mackinaw

Posted on January 12, 2014 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281243862765
This vintage coat was made by Carss Mackinaw, probably in the 1920s. It is made of striped point blanket material, with four patch pockets and a belted back. It has a squared off shawl collar, and caped shoulders, both distinctively Carss details. The coat is unlined, as is typical of mackinaws of this era.

Chest (pit to pit): 24″ (doubled = 48″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 18-1/2″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 25″
Length: 30″

A bit about the company, from a history piece I wrote for “The Fedora Lounge”: Carss Mackinaw made blanket coats in Orillia, Ontario from at least 1897. Their signature model was single breasted with caped shoulders and a squared-off shawl collar. They are most commonly seen in red, green, and khaki, all with a blanket stripe at the base. The fabric used in these coats was advertised as a whopping 44oz (although this one feels lighter), and was sourced from a variety of trade blanket manufacturers, including Hudson’s Bay and the Bird Woolen Mills. They were advertised as “The Only Genuine Mackinaw Made In Canada”. They were retailed by the Hudson’s Bay Company, as well as other stores.

Also see: https://vintagehaberdashers.com/2013/12/21/1920s-carss-mackinaw-coat/

Western Costume shawl collar jacket

Posted on December 21, 2013 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281231689469
This vintage jacket came from the warehouses of Western Costume of Hollywood, and was used in Westerns and in 19th century period pieces. With the texture of the fabric and the placement of the pockets, I would guess that this was probably cut down from an old shawl collared overcoat or mackinaw, and had the collar trim and extra buttonholes added by Western Costume. The jacket has fairly heavy wear, which is to be expected from something that’s been in a movie costume department for decades.

Chest (pit to pit): 21″
Shoulder to shoulder: 19″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 23″
Length: 20″

1920s Bedford Cord breeches

Posted on December 21, 2013 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281231706265
These vintage breeches were made in the 1920s. They are made out of a gray Bedford cord. At some point around 1930, the original owner upgraded them, reinforcing the pocket edges with heavy brown leather, probably elk or deer. He also removed the original belt loops, replacing them with black leather, and extended the legs 2-1/2″ with black leather. The extensions do up with flower patterned snaps, which help date the work. They are a transitional style, with male ends marked “USF Co”, and female ends marked “United Carr”. “USF” stands for “United States Fastener”. They merged with Carr Fastener in 1929 to form “United Carr”, but for a short time during the transition, they used the old USF toolings.
The breeches have a watch pocket, one flapped back pocket and one open. The legs button closed, and the pants have a button fly.

Waist (side to side): 18″ (doubled = 36″)
Inseam: 26″
Outseam: 38″

WWI army pullover shirt

Posted on December 21, 2013 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271352941389
This is a WWI army shirt. It is a pullover style, with two large breast pockets, a three button front, and elbow reinforcements. The tails are gusseted.

Chest (pit to pit): 22″
Shoulder to shoulder: 17″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 22″
Length: 30″
Collar: 14″

1920s Carss Mackinaw coat

Posted on December 21, 2013 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271352494287
This vintage coat was made by Carss Mackinaw, probably in the 1920s. This is a rare version. Most were made in striped point blanket material, with four patch pockets and a belted back. This one is made from a wool plaid. It has a squared off shawl collar, with patch breast pockets and handwarmers in a shape which would eventually inspire the D-Pocket found on motorcycle jackets. There are access flaps to an internal game pocket, and adjuster belts, mounted high on the back. The shoulders have pinked capes.

Chest (pit to pit): 24″ (doubled = 48″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 18-1/2″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24″
Length: 30″

A bit about the company, from a history piece I wrote for “The Fedora Lounge”: Carss Mackinaw made blanket coats in Orillia, Ontario from at least 1897. Their signature model was single breasted with caped shoulders and a squared-off shawl collar. They are most commonly seen in red, green, and khaki, all with a blanket stripe at the base. The fabric used in these coats was advertised as a whopping 44oz, and was sourced from a variety of trade blanket manufacturers, including Hudson’s Bay and the Bird Woolen Mills. They were advertised as “The Only Genuine Mackinaw Made In Canada”. They were retailed by the Hudson’s Bay Company, as well as other stores.

photo IMG_0036-3.jpg

1920s plaid Big Indian Shirt workshirt

Posted on December 21, 2013 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271352508597
This vintage plaid wool workshirt was made by the Big Indian Shirt company. This is their early yellow and black label with tipis, which was used in the 1920s through the early 1930s. There are two breast pockets. The left one is cut to hold a pen. The collar has a nice shape, with a dramatic undercurve. The tails have gussets.

While most plaid shirts like this were made by outdoors companies like Woolrich, Big Indian was exclusively a workwear company, producing primarily in chambray. Their popularity peaked in the mid 1920s.

Chest (pit to pit): 22″
Shoulder to shoulder: 17″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 23-1/2″
Length: 28″
Neck: 15″

WWI army shirt

Posted on December 21, 2013 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281231419370
This is a WWI army issue pullover wool shirt. It has two breast pockets, one with stitching for a pen. The sleeves have reinforcements at the shoulders. The original tag is still at the hem, but it is mostly illegible. The chest and placket are partially lined. There are gussets at the tails.

Chest (pit to pit): 24-1/2″ (doubled = 49″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 18″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 23-1/2″
Length: 32-1/2″
Neck: 16″

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Tag Archives: 1920s

m1926 army Mackinaw

1920s Hudson’s Bay Company point blanket coat

Shawl collar Jeffrey Banks x Lakeland mackinaw

1920s point blanket Carss Mackinaw

Western Costume shawl collar jacket

1920s Bedford Cord breeches

WWI army pullover shirt

1920s Carss Mackinaw coat

1920s plaid Big Indian Shirt workshirt

WWI army shirt