1970s Trumpeter D-Pocket leather jacket

Posted on June 1, 2014 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281350988381
This vintage leather jacket was made in Spain in the 1970s and was sold under the Trumpeter label. It has a broad coat style collar, front and back yokes, side button waist adjuster tabs, patch pockets and a zipped D-pocket. The yokes give the jacket a bit of western flair, while the style of D-pocket and the pointed patch pockets are a stylistic quote from Cossack and Aviator jackets of the mid 1930s.
The jacket is tagged a size 42, but with a 42″ chest, would best fit a size 40.

Chest (pit to pit): 21″ (doubled = 42″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 18″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24″
Length (base of collar to hem): 24″

1930s Pritzker Air-O-Coat leather cossack jacket

Posted on May 31, 2014 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281350510684
This vintage leather jacket was made c.1936-1937 by A. Pritzker & Sons, Inc. of Boston, MA. The jacket is a Cossack style, with a fancy belted back. The 3/4 zip with 1/4 button detailing, borrowed from “Gaucho” style shirts of the period, enjoyed a brief stint of popularity in 1936-1937 before falling out of favor. Pritzker & Sons was owned by Aaron Pritzker and had a factory at 1020 Washington Street, Boston, MA. They are probably now best known for their USN G-1 flight jackets, although prior to WWII, they were a prolific maker of civilian styles. This one was sold as the “Air-O-Coat”, conjuring up the romantic imagery of 1930s aviators.

The jacket has an early Talon Hookless style grommet zipper.. The jacket is lightweight and partially lined, as is typical of these early windbreaker styles. The shoulder yoke is lined, as are the cuffs. It has a half-belt back with one of the fanciest pleated back styles I’ve seen. Pockets are D-style due to the unlined construction.
The jacket was bought by Bucky Wadon around 1937. Wadon played football, hockey and baseball during the 1930s and served in WWII.
With a 42″ chest measurement, this would best fit someone who wears a size 36 or 38 jacket. The sleeves are uncommonly long for most jackets I’ve found from this era, perfect for the taller guy. The leather is still soft and supple and the jacket is still very wearable.

Chest (pit to pit): 21″ (doubled = 42″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 18″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 25-1/2″
Length (base of collar to hem): 20″

1930s Californian grommet zipper leather vest

Posted on May 31, 2014 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281350515618
This vintage leather vest was made by the California Sportswear Company of Los Angeles under their Californian label in the mid to late 1930s. It has an early Talon Hookless style grommet zipper and a chain and ring style Talon zip on the breast pocket, with the early style slider with the Talon script. These date it from around 1935-1938. It bears the famous Californian rising sun label, and has side adjuster belts, like those found on Californian’s half-belt leather jackets of the same period.

Chest (pit to pit): 20″ (doubled = 40″)
Length: 17-3/4″

1950s Abercrombie & Fitch leather utility jacket

Posted on May 31, 2014 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271509482877
This vintage leather jacket was made in the late ’40s-early 1950s and was sold by Abercrombie & Fitch, back in the days when it was an outfitter of the highest caliber. The jacket appears to have begun life all those years ago as russet brown, but has been worn and aged to the wonderful color it is now. The jacket is a cossack style, about as minimalist as they come. It has handwarmer pockets, a one piece back and side adjuster belts. The cuffs have buttoned adjusters. The zip front does up with a Talon zipper, of the type which began production in the late ’40s and were the norm throughout the 1950s.

Chest (pit to pit): 23″ (doubled = 46″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 20″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24-1/2″
Length (base of collar to hem): 25-1/2″

1940s Front Quarter horsehide jacket

Posted on May 30, 2014 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281349331760
This vintage leather jacket was made in the 1940s. The style, with knit waistband and cuffs, and slash handwarmer pockets was popular after the war. It is made of full grain front quarter horsehide, with a mouton collar. The jacket is lined in alpaca and corduroy, with quilted sleeve linings. The zipper is a later replacement from a no-name maker, with non-matching stitching. The cuffs and knit waistband also appear to be replacements. The jacket has a one piece back with a straight shoulder yoke. The horsehide has wonderful grain accented by decades of use. I have seen this particular design of yellow and black horsehide label, and this style of lining on earlier button front barnstormer models, but not on a post-war bomber jacket style like this. The leather has wear and loss of finish, but is still solid and supple.

Chest (pit to pit): 24″ (doubled = 48″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 19″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24-1/2″
Length (base of collar to end of cuff): 23″

1907 dated cutaway coat

Posted on May 27, 2014 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271506052952
This vintage cutaway coat was made in 1907 by Henry Jonas of Butte, Montana for M.A. Berger, a noted land agent in the Butte area in the late 1800s and early decades of the 1900s. Butte was well known in that period for its copper mining. The coat bears the label of the Journeyman Tailors of America union.

Chest (pit to pit): 20″
Shoulder to shoulder: 17-3/4″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24″
Length (base of collar to hem): 36″

Vintage 1950s Buco J-82 D-pocket leather jacket

Posted on May 23, 2014 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281345326835
This vintage leather jacket was made by the Joseph Buegeleisen Company of Detroit Michigan, in the mid-late 1950s. The J-82 model was introduced by Buco c. 1955, and going by the style of Talon zippers on this example, it dates from this 1950s time frame. Although this jacket was cut down into a vest by its original biker owner, the detailing of the J-82 model is highly distinctive and makes it immediately recognizable. The jacket is made of heavy steerhide leather, with a D-pocket (also known as a pistol pocket or a map pocket). Whereas many other D-pocket models had a patch cigarette pocket overtop the map pocket, the J-82 had a cleaner design, leaving that pocket uncluttered. There is a zipper breast pocket, somewhat of a holdover from aviator jacket styles of the 1940s, and a zippered slash handwarmer style pocket. The jacket has an attached belt, with a blacked out metal buckle and a metal tipped belt end to make threading it through easier. The belt loops and all pockets are reinforced and embellished with nickel plated rectangular high-dome studwork. The lapels snap down and there are additional snaps that a mouton collar could have originally been attached to. The jacket has a bi-swing back. The main zipper is a no.5 Talon of 1950s design, and all pocket zippers are bell-shaped Talons.
Wear this jacket over a denim jacket or like Lee Marvin in The Wild One over a striped shirt.

Chest (pit to pit): 19″
Length (base of collar to hem): 23″
Waist: 17″

Original Perry A-2 horsehide flight jacket

Posted on May 22, 2014 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271501781667
This vintage leather flight jacket was made by the Perry Sportswear company of Newburgh, New York. It is made of horsehide leather. The jacket has a pinlock Conmar zipper, United Carr ball-style snaps and grommets under the arms. The pockets have square reinforcement stitching, rounded corners, and shallowly scalloped pocket flaps. The arm has some period artwork on it for the 5th Air Corps. Unlike most, which were painted, this one is branded onto the leather.

Chest (pit to pit): 41″
Shoulder to shoulder: 17-1/2″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 20-1/2″ (missing knit cuffs, so will be longer once replaced)
Length (base of collar to end of waistband): 23-1/2″

Lakeland Shawl Collar sweater

Posted on May 22, 2014 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281344004202
This vintage sweater was made in the 1970s by Lakeland. The design is heavily influenced by the shawl collar sweaters of the 1920s and 1930s. It has a broad shawl collar, a four button front and four leather pockets, the design and placement of which are reminiscent of shawl collared mackinaw coats of the same period. The sweater is fully lined and has an interior pocket, in keeping with the original intention of these as an article of outerwear rather than something to be layered, as was the case with v necked cardigans.

Tagged size: 40
Chest (pit to pit): 22″ (doubled = 44″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 18″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24″
Length (base of collar to hem): 27″

Wabash Stripe Railroad chore jacket

Posted on May 22, 2014 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271500215997

This jacket was made recently by 3 Days Union / WorkWare in the style of a 1920s-1930s wabash stripe railroad chore jacket. It has an angled watch pocket and corresponding slanted buttonhole for your watch chain (shirt, watch and chain not included in auction). The breast pocket has an interior pocket behind it. The WorkWare label plays off the typographic design used on old Montgomery Ward products. The jacket has “union made” text buttons and a repro of the now defunct United Garment Workers of America label. There is a double button system at the collar to allow for adjustment. With a chest measurement of 41″, this would best fit someone who wears a size 36 or 38 jacket.

Tagged size: large (Asian large, please refer to measurements)
Chest (pit to pit): 20-1/2″ (41″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 17″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24-1/2″
Length (base of collar to hem): 27″

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Category Archives: Jackets

1970s Trumpeter D-Pocket leather jacket

1930s Pritzker Air-O-Coat leather cossack jacket

1930s Californian grommet zipper leather vest

1950s Abercrombie & Fitch leather utility jacket

1940s Front Quarter horsehide jacket

1907 dated cutaway coat

Vintage 1950s Buco J-82 D-pocket leather jacket

Original Perry A-2 horsehide flight jacket

Lakeland Shawl Collar sweater

Wabash Stripe Railroad chore jacket