Schott Half-belt leather jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/272084671032

This jacket was made by Schott Bros. of New York under their Rancher label. It is made of heavy steerhide leather, with a no. 10 Ideal zipper front, handwarmer pockets, flapped cargo pockets and a half-belt back.  It has bi-swing shoulders and a plaid lining.

Chest (pit to pit): 22″ (doubled = 44″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 17-3/4″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 25-1/4″
Length (Base of collar to hem): 26-1/2″

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Lesco leather motorcycle jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/272031198911
This jacket was made in the 1970s by Lesco. It is made of black leather, in a classic motorcycle jacket style.

Chest (pit to pit): 22″ (doubled = 44″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 17″
Sleeve (Shoulder to cuff): 24-1/2″
Length (Base of collar to hem): 25″

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1930s Protecto The Rancher cowboy hat

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271570386750
This vintage cowboy hat was made in the 1930s by Protecto. The model name is “The Rancher”. It has a wide bound brim and a five cord hatband. The sweatband is an early 1930s style, with a wide embossed stripe at the top. The liner is the nearly identical to the “Last Drop” image as is found on Stetson hats.

Size: 7
Brim Width: 3-1/2″
Ribbon Width: 5/8″
Crown Height: 5-3/4″

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Vintage 1950s Buco J-82 D-pocket leather jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281345326835
This vintage leather jacket was made by the Joseph Buegeleisen Company of Detroit Michigan, in the mid-late 1950s. The J-82 model was introduced by Buco c. 1955, and going by the style of Talon zippers on this example, it dates from this 1950s time frame. Although this jacket was cut down into a vest by its original biker owner, the detailing of the J-82 model is highly distinctive and makes it immediately recognizable. The jacket is made of heavy steerhide leather, with a D-pocket (also known as a pistol pocket or a map pocket). Whereas many other D-pocket models had a patch cigarette pocket overtop the map pocket, the J-82 had a cleaner design, leaving that pocket uncluttered. There is a zipper breast pocket, somewhat of a holdover from aviator jacket styles of the 1940s, and a zippered slash handwarmer style pocket. The jacket has an attached belt, with a blacked out metal buckle and a metal tipped belt end to make threading it through easier. The belt loops and all pockets are reinforced and embellished with nickel plated rectangular high-dome studwork. The lapels snap down and there are additional snaps that a mouton collar could have originally been attached to. The jacket has a bi-swing back. The main zipper is a no.5 Talon of 1950s design, and all pocket zippers are bell-shaped Talons.
Wear this jacket over a denim jacket or like Lee Marvin in The Wild One over a striped shirt.

Chest (pit to pit): 19″
Length (base of collar to hem): 23″
Waist: 17″

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Silver D-Pocket Motorcycle Jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281095874481

This is a truly rare and unusual early D-Pocket motorcycle jacket. It is a Harley Davidson Cycle Champ style. The label is missing, but going by the Canadian made “Lightning” zips, it would appear this is an extremely early version of the pattern produced by the British Mfg. Co. It has early bell-shaped lightning zips, for the main and the sleeve zippers, with a Lightning chain zip on the D-pocket. The sleeves zip open, whereas on later Canadian-made versions of this jacket, they had gussets. There is a little snap belt at the end of the sleeve to further secure the cuff when zipped up, though one is missing. Studs on the pocket corners and on the epaulettes (though 3 of the 4 from the lapels are missing). These studs are the early rounded variety, where as later versions had ones which were more squared off. The epaulettes are of the early stitched down variety, whereas later examples had ones with snaps.
The most unusual feature is definitely the color. You don’t see a lot of silver leather jackets, and yes, that is the original color, it is not some kind of later re-spray. This was definitely a signature piece for some biker, and he wore it long and hard.

Heavy smoke smell which I have been unable to remove. Overall wear to leather. Wear through leather at collar. Damage and stitch separation to left cuff. Missing snap belt closure on right cuff. Missing one belt loop. Heavy damage to front belt leather. Separation to stitching on cigarette pocket. Wear to lining, worn through near cuffs.

Chest (pit to pit): 22″
Shoulder to Shoulder: 19″
Shoulder to cuff: 24″
Length (bottom of collar to hem): 22-1/2″
Waist: 18″

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Canadian D-Pocket Motorcycle Jackets

I recently bought these two Montreal made D-Pocket motorcycle jackets. Both were made by different iterations of the same company, British Sportswear and British Cycle Leathers, which would later become Brimaco. It’s always interesting having similar pieces of vintage clothing like this at the same time to be able to do direct comparisons of fit and details.

The black jacket is a later model of the earlier silver one, which in turn draws heavy inspiration from the Harley Davidson Cycle Champ jacket.On to the comparisons.

Leather color aside, while the two jackets follow the same pattern, there are a number of differences between them.  Some of these are due simply to the date of manufacture and the hardware which was readily available at that point.  Others are subtle, yet distinct, changes in the pattern.

The design of the d-pocket changed, growing in size, with less tapered ends.  The two pockets lost their clipped corners and single stitching replaced double. Hardware changed, with different patterns of Lightning zippers used from one to the next, and different belt buckles and studs, but that has more to do with availability than design.  The belt on the newer jacket is backed in cloth, while on the silver jacket it has a backing of black leather.  The belt buckles are inset in different ways from one to the next, with triangular reinforcement stitching on the black one. Epaulettes are false on the silver jacket, stitched to the shoulder.  They are more conventional and snap down on the black one. The silver jacket has open cuffs that zip closed and have a snap tab at the end of the cuff.  The black jacket also has zipped cuffs, but the leather of the sleeve is continuous and the zippers are there for adjustment of the sleeve diameter. The lining pattern is different one to the next, as is the collar shape

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Biker Still Life

16″ lace up wingtip boots from the 1930s, a brown leather motorcycle jacket from the ’50s or so, Pall Mall cigarettes with a 1949 tax stamp, a made in Japan “Sabre” knife, vintage bandanna, belt and a silver and turquoise ring. Not a lot of brown leather going in motorcycle gear these days.
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