Tag Archives: Buco
1950s Buco J-24 horsehide leather motorcycle jacket
This vintage jacket was made in the early 1950s in Detroit, Michigan by the Joseph Buegeleisen Company (Buco) out of horsehide. It is their J-24 D-Pocket model motorcycle jacket. From the style of stop box on the main zipper, with its wide ribs, but without the Talon name, this one was made between about 1952 and 1957. The jacket has a D-pocket map pocket with a rounded cornered cigarette pocket. It has zipped sleeves, snapped lapels, snapped belt loops for an external belt, bars on the epaulettes, zippered side storage, a handwarmer pocket, and bi-swing shoulders. At some point, it appears the original owner either broke the main zipper or gained weight, and added snaps, which are offset from the original zip position.
Chest (pit to pit): 21″ (doubled = 42″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 18″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 25″
Length (base of collar to hem): 23-1/2″
1930s Buegeleisen Eaglet Helmet blue
Strauss & Buegeleisen was founded in 1910 by Elias Buegeleisen of New York, and produced shatterproof aviators goggles under the Resistal name. Younger brother Joseph Buegeleisen and David Buegeleisen joined the company, with J. heading up sales in the Detroit area and D. as the West Coast representative. Joseph split from the family business around 1937 to found what would become Buco. D. Buegeleisen split slightly earlier and began production of these Eaglet helmets, marketed, like the other related family businesses, to the aviation and motorcycle markets. This cap has a navy blue cotton twill shell with a leather lining and trim. It has leather straps to hold on goggles with early style branded snaps. This one is tagged a size Medium and measures 20-1/2″ in circumference.
1930s D. Buegeleisen Eaglet helmet
Strauss & Buegeleisen was founded in 1910 by Elias Buegeleisen of New York, and produced shatterproof aviators goggles under the Resistal name. Younger brother Joseph Buegeleisen and David Buegeleisen joined the company, with J. heading up sales in the Detroit area and D. as the West Coast representative. Joseph split from the family business around 1937 to found what would become Buco. D. Buegeleisen split slightly earlier and began production of these Eaglet helmets, marketed, like the other related family businesses, to the aviation and motorcycle markets. This cap has a khaki cotton twill shell with a leather lining and trim. It has leather straps to hold on goggles with early style branded snaps. This one is tagged a size Small and measures 20″ in circumference.
1950s D-Pocket leather jacket biker cut
This vintage leather jacket was made in the 1950s, and was likely sold by Sears under the Fieldmaster label. This is distinguished as one of the earlier production Sears D-pockets by the small Talon zipper (before they switched to either larger Talons or Serval zips). This has a separate square bottomed patch pocket cigarette pocket, which was replaced by the late 1950s-early 1960s by a internal pocket with just the flap. The D-pocket is also a separate piece of leather, while on later manufactured versions (with either the Oakbrook or Leather Shop labels) the pocket was accomplished with stitching and a welt. This also has a tunneled belt loop through the kidney panel rather than the attached quarter belts of later versions. The earliest Sears branded D-Pockets were produced under contract by Buco in Detroit, Michigan, while later 1950s versions were produced in California. At some point, this jacket was used by a member of a biker gang, as evidenced by stitch marks left by the removal of a club insignia and top and bottom rockers. The Harley Davidson patch, which would have been added by the jacket’s owner, and which would not have been the property of the club, is still on the jacket’s kidney panel. With a chest measurement of 46″, this would fit a 42 if worn over a shirt, or roughly a 38-40 if worn over a denim jacket
Chest (pit to pit): 23″ (doubled = 46″)
Waist (side to side): 18-1/2″ (doubled = 37″)
Shoulder to shoulder:19″
Length (base of collar to hem): 21″
Famous D-Pocket motorcycle jacket
This vintage jacket was made in Canada by “Famous”. It is strongly reminiscent of the also Canadian-produced Brimaco D-Pocket motorcycle jacket, which was in turn inspired by the Design of Harley Davidson’s “Cycle Champ” D-Pocket. So although this one was produced in the 1960s, the design and detailing go back to the 1940s. The jacket has a map pocket with sub cigarette pocket, mirrored by a larger patch pocket on the other side of the asymmetrical zipper. The jacket has zipped cuffs with 1930s-1940s style cuff detailing. It has a plaid lining, and a Canadian produced (left tracked) Acme zipper.
Chest (pit to pit):24″ (doubled = 48″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 19-1/2″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 23″
Length (base of collar to hem): 22″
1960s-1970s Beau Breed Cafe Racer leather jacket
This vintage leather cafe race motorcycle jacket was made by Beau Breed in the late 1960s- 1970s. It is made of brown steerhide, with two breast pockets, bi-swing shoulders, a band collar with two male snaps and one female. It has a late starting zipper, similar to Beck jackets. The main zipper is a Crown / Coats Clark and sleeve zippers are Serval. The jacket has a quilted lining with a corduroy strip at its base.
Chest (pit to pit): 22″
Shoulder to shoulder:18-1/2″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 25″
Length (base of collar to hem): 26-1/2″
Vintage 1950s Buco J-82 D-pocket leather jacket
This vintage leather jacket was made by the Joseph Buegeleisen Company of Detroit Michigan, in the mid-late 1950s. The J-82 model was introduced by Buco c. 1955, and going by the style of Talon zippers on this example, it dates from this 1950s time frame. Although this jacket was cut down into a vest by its original biker owner, the detailing of the J-82 model is highly distinctive and makes it immediately recognizable. The jacket is made of heavy steerhide leather, with a D-pocket (also known as a pistol pocket or a map pocket). Whereas many other D-pocket models had a patch cigarette pocket overtop the map pocket, the J-82 had a cleaner design, leaving that pocket uncluttered. There is a zipper breast pocket, somewhat of a holdover from aviator jacket styles of the 1940s, and a zippered slash handwarmer style pocket. The jacket has an attached belt, with a blacked out metal buckle and a metal tipped belt end to make threading it through easier. The belt loops and all pockets are reinforced and embellished with nickel plated rectangular high-dome studwork. The lapels snap down and there are additional snaps that a mouton collar could have originally been attached to. The jacket has a bi-swing back. The main zipper is a no.5 Talon of 1950s design, and all pocket zippers are bell-shaped Talons.
Wear this jacket over a denim jacket or like Lee Marvin in The Wild One over a striped shirt.
Chest (pit to pit): 19″
Length (base of collar to hem): 23″