1918 dated WWI army overcoat

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281645258225
This vintage overcoat was made in 1918 by Cohen Endel . . . of New York and was distributed by the New York Depot quartermaster. The coat is double breasted, with a belted back and buttoned throat latch. There is a secondary stamp from the New York Depot, stamped Marvin Falk and what looks like 1933. The belt-back is is sewn over the tag and lining, and from its construction, looks like it may have been added later. There is a army air corps patch on the shoulder, obviously added later than WWI, however if the coat was re-issued in the 1930s, it would likely have been added at that point. The As is typical of coats of this period, it is only partially lined.

Chest (pit to pit): 21″” (doubled = 42″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 18″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24″
Length (Base of collar to hem): 38″

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1930s Guiterman Brothers Hudson’s Bay Point Blanket Mackinaw Coat

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271821794567
This vintage coat was made in the 1930s in St Paul, Minnesota by Guiterman Brothers, who at that point were owned by Gordon and Ferguson. The coat is tailored from red Hudson’s Bay Company Point blanket material, and bears the label used by them in this 1930s timeframe. The Guiterman Brothers label has been partially worn away, but Guiterman is partially legible, as is the GB crest. The coat is double breasted, with points showing, and the black portion of the blanket used as contrast for the collar.

A bit about Guiterman Bros, from a piece I wrote for “The Art of Vintage Leather Jackets”
Guiterman Brothers was founded in 1883 and incorporated in 1904. They began using the Summit “Town & Country” name in 1904. In the early 1910s, Guiterman Brothers pioneered the attached soft collared shirt. They also called it the Summit. The company had a plant at 352 Silbey Street, St. Paul, MN, which still stands. They enjoyed prosperity during the 1910s, riding the Mackinaw boom of 1915. They were supposedly the first company to coin the name “windbreaker”. As shown above, their “Town and Country” Coats and vests shared the distinctive double snap Knit-Nek. During WWI, Guiterman Bros. produced flying coats for US aviators. In 1928-1929, the company was purchased by Gordon and Ferguson.

Chest (pit to pit): 24″ (doubled – 48″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 19-1/2″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24″
Length (base of collar to hem): 34″

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1930s shawl collar leather barnstormer coat

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271820768421
This vintage leather coat was made in the 1930s. It is double breasted, with a mouton collar, leather knot style buttons, fancy buttoned cuffs, handwarmer and flapped cargo pockets with arrow stitched reinforcements, and a covered curly sheepskin lining.

Chest (pit to pit): 24″ (doubled = 48″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 19-1/2″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24-1/2″
Length (base of collar to hem): 31″

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1940s C.C. Filson cruiser jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281644238181
This vintage jacket was union made in Seattle Washington by the C.C. Filson Company. It is made of black and white buffalo plaid in their classic cruiser pattern. It has four main pockets, with side access to the game pouch, and two sub-pockets, one slotted and the other for a watch or cigarettes. The coat is double layered wool for the game pouch. This jacket features the early style diamond label, and early style United Carr snaps, with the printed “C.C. Filson Co Manufacturers Seattle” design, before they switched over to the later metal topped version with their name cast in. The cuffs have at some point been reinforced or lengthened with black leather, and there is a patch on the sleeve.

Chest (pit to pit): 23″ (doubled = 46″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 18-1/2″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24″
Length (base of collar to hem): 28-1/2″

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1950s atomic fleck Marbury Overcoat

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281644171468
This vintage overcoat was made in the early 1950s by Marbury Coats. It has raglan shoulders, a three button front and is made from a fantastic atomic flecked / overcheck wool.
Chest (pit to pit): 24″ (doubled = 48″)
Sleeve (center of collar to end of cuff): 34-1/2′
Length (base of collar to hem): 45″

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1930s-early 1940s Bond double breasted overcoat

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271820455903
This vintage overcoat was made in the 1930s-early 1940s by Bond Clothes. It is made of black herringbone wool, is double breasted, with wide peaked lapels and a breast pocket. The coat is fully lined, and bears either a 1936 or 1939 Amalgamated Clothing Workers of America Union label.

Chest (pit to pit): 22″ (doubled = 44″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 19″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24″
Length (base of collar to hem): 40″

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1930s tweed overcoat

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281643938546
This vintage overcoat was made in the 1930s. It is made of a great brown and cream tweed with an orange overcheck. The coat is single breasted and half-lined with a great herringbone lining.

Chest (pit to pit): 22″ (doubled = 44″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 18″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 25″
Length (base of collar to hem): 44″
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1950s Sears Hercules shawl collar sheeplined coat

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281636830152
This vintage coat was made in the 1950s for Sears Roebuck and Co under their Fieldmaster outerwear label. The coat is made of cotton canvas, with a 3/4 sheepskin lining, brown mouton collar, full belt and quilted sleeve linings. It has leather reinforcements at the corners of the handwarmer and flapped hip pockets, and loop closure for the buttons.

Chest (pit to pit): 24″ (doubled = 48″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 19-1/2″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 25-1/2″
Length (base of collar to hem): 34″

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1920s red Hudson’s Bay point blanket mackinaw coat

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281636805140
This vintage coat was made in the 1920s by the Hudson’s Bay company. It is made of red HBC point blanket material, in a classic double breasted mackinaw cut. The points are located on the side seam and the black portion of the blanket has been used for contrast on the belt loops. The coat is, as was typical of mackinaws of this period, unlined. The label is a rare early variant, used up to the mid 1920s, when it was amended with registration numbers, as is seen on another, slightly later HBC mackinaw I’m currently selling. For a full rundown of the HBC labels used on these coats, please look at the chart I produced below.

Chest (pit to pit): 21″ (doubled = 42″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 17″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24″
Length (base of collar to hem): 29″

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1940s Maine Guide Hudson’s Bay point blanket mackinaw coat

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271813450865
This vintage coat was made in the USA by Congress under the Maine Guide Sportswear label. It is made from English-made Hudson’s Bay point blanket material, one of the highest quality and most expensive wools on the market for this type of coat at that point. These coats were most popular in red and black stripe, and in multi-stripe (green red, yellow and indigo stripes on a white background).

The style of the Hudson’s Bay label and the (R) symbol on the Maine Guide label help to date this to the late 1940s, although the overall pattern of the coat belongs more to the 1930s. There were two major waves of Hudson’s Bay Point Blanket mackinaw popularity, one in the mid 1930s and one immediately after WWII. The ones from the 1940s period to which this one belongs were generally beltless and single breasted, whereas this fits the traditional mackinaw mold of the 1920s and 1930s, but with a bit more flair. I like the way the Maine Guide coats use the pattern of the blanket to accentuate the details of their coats. The “points” of the blanket are right up front. The sleeves are defined by the stripe, as are the handwarmer pockets and the buttoned sleeve adjuster belts. The hip pocket flaps contrast against the main stripe. Some manufacturers of point blanket coats merely tailored their standard mackinaw pattern in a different material. Maine Guide went the extra step to take full advantage of everything the iconic Canadian fabric had to offer. The blanket wool is thick and has a long nap, which is also more typical of earlier production blankets than those found on coats dating from the 1950s-present, after manufacturing was switched from England to Canada. It makes sense, as the company had a lot of experience with blanket coats. In the early 1930s, Maine Guide produced a model with a double breasted chest and a zippered bottom. A really unique look.

This coat is double breasted and belted, and has stylish peak lapels and a rounded collar which I have only seen on blanket coats made by Maine Guide. Another unique feature to Maine Guide is the bottom hem, which uses the edge of the blanket, instead of having a bottom seam. The coat is unlined, which is more typical of pre-war patterns.

Chest (pit to pit): 23″
(doubled = 46″) Shoulder to shoulder: 20-1/2″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 25-1/4″
Length (base of collar to hem): 35″

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A progression of Hudson’s Bay labels.  This one is a variant of one used from the mid 1930s-1950s

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