Late 1940s Deerskin cossack jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271647952876
This vintage jacket was made in the late 1940s from soft buckskin leather. Going by the unusual details, like the reinforcing stitching at the base of the bi-swing back, it’s safe to say that it was made in Denver, Colorado. The jacket has a Talon zipper front in a transitional style, with a large holed pull, unmarked slider connection and Talon branded stopbox. That helps narrow the dating down considerably, since these Denver produced jackets had their own unique style and did not follow the larger overall fashion trends the way mass produced jackets did. The jacket has flapped pockets with leather buttons, a plain front, bi-swing back, and a seam where there would generally be a half-belt, but which performs the same visual function.

Chest (pit to pit): 21-1/2″ (doubled = 43″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 18″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 25″
Length (Base of collar to hem): 25-1/2″

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c. 1935 Congress Sportswear half-zip, half button point blanket mackinaw coat

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271624812561
This vintage coat was made c.1935 by Congress Sportswear and would likely have been sold under the “Maine Guide” label. This is a highly unusual and short lived style produced by Congress, with a half-zip, half-button front. The bottom half zipped up with a Talon grommet zipper, and the top with a 3×6 double breasted closure, which can be buttoned closed, buttoned like coat lapels, or open like 19th century military uniforms. The coat has a zip hood, which can be folded up and snapped (with early United Carr snaps) to form a collar. The coat is unlined, as is typical of these early mackinaw coats, and has taped seams.
The coat is readily identifiable as a Congress Sportswear product by several details. Congress was one of the only manufacturers to produce this half-and-half style, but details, like the un-hemmed bottom edge, and the contrast pocket trim and cuff adjusters are unique to Maine Guide products. These coats were produced by Congress for several other house labels, namely Abercombie and Fitch.
The coat is made from Hudson’s Bay Company point blanket, with a 1930s label. This fabric was, at the time, one of the most expensive wool fabrics available for high-end outdoors garments. The zipper is identifiable as being manufactured in the mid 1930s by its bell shape, the deco rays found both on the slider and the pull and by the oval shaped attachment piece between the slider and pull, which had been replaced by the later 1930s by a square sided bersion. The grommets of the grommet zipper, as well as the primitive stop-box, are still in place, although the current zipper, slightly shorter than the original, can be identified as a later production model Talon by its rounded edged pull and stop-box design.

Chest (pit to pit): 24″ (doubled = 48″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 18″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24″
Length (Base of collar to hem): 36-1/2″

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G-1 leather flight jacket General Zipper

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271547836293
This vintage leather jacket is a USN G-1 flight jacket. It has a half-belt, bi-swing back, knit cuffs and waistband, button closure patch pockets with a pencil slot and a button throat latch on the underside of the collar. The main zip is a General, which bears a striking resemblance to Talon’s toolings. The interior wind flap has been cut off, the tag removed, and the original owner’s name marked out on the lining.

Chest (pit to pit): 20″ (doubled = 40″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 18″
Sleeve (shoulder to end of knit): 24″
Length (base of collar to end of waistband): 24″

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Ralph Lauren Deck Jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271449035189
This jacket was made by Ralph Lauren under the Polo label. Its design is heavily influenced by early pattern USN N-1 deck jackets. It blends the styling of the button and the hook front ones. It is made from 100% cotton, in a soft knit. The jacket has a bell shaped Talon zipper, knit collar, cuffs and waistband. It has semicircular patch pockets, ventilation grommets at the underarms, a fly front and a buttoned throat latch / chinstrap.

Tagged Size: L
Chest (pit to pit): 24″ (doubled = 48″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 19-1/2″
Sleeve (shoulder to end of cuff): 25″
Length (base of collar to end of waistband): 27″

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1930s Grommet Zipper half-belt leather jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281272035995
This vintage leather jacket was made in the mid 1930s. It is made from capeskin leather, rough side out. As was typical of these early-mid 1930s lightweight half-belt windbreaker styles, this one is unlined. It has an riveted “grommet” Talon zipper, a style which was produced from the early-mid 1930s, before being joined, then replaced by the deco “sunburst” style stopbox. The slider is an early style, with rays on the slider, a small hole puller, and an attachment section which is more oval shaped than those produced later in the 1930s. The jacket is a waist length Cossack style, and has a fancy pleated, belted back with side adjuster belts.

Chest (pit to pit): 21″
Shoulder to shoulder: 16-3/4″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 26″
Length (base of collar to hem): 21″

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Deadstock mid 1930s Talon Fantail Zippers

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281262585415
This rare vintage zipper was produced by Talon from the early to mid 1930s. In their advertising, this style was the style 110, while the slightly larger version was known as the style 109. The last photo shows a 110 and a 109 side by side for size comparison purposes. It is a pin lock style, with D-shaped stops at the top. According to original advertisements, these were sold with white cotton tape so that they could be dyed to match. These are a closed end, open top style, perfect for sleeve openings on motorcycle jackets and the like. The zipper track measures 3″, while the tape from end to end measures 4-1/2″.

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Ideal zip front plaid workshirt

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281204221541
This vintage shirt was made in the 1940s by Ideal. It has a bell-shaped Talon zipper with an oval hole. It has a long pointed collar, with an extended “chinstrap” collar stand. There are two flapped breast pockets.

Chest (pit to pit): 23″
Shoulder to shoulder: 19″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24″
Length: 32″

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Soo Woolen Mills plaid surcoat

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281198324999
This vintage plaid mackinaw coat was made by the Soo Woolen Mills of Sault Ste. Marie, Michigan immediately after WWII. It has a surcoat zipper attachment and length. The main zipper is a rare transitional talon- with a Talon marked stop box of the type used in the mid-late 1940s. The main zip has a square sided, square holed puller, a type used very briefly as they were transitioning between the square edged pullers with a small hole and round ended pullers with a larger hole. The pockets zip with bell shaped, round holed Conmar zippers. The overall cut of the coat is interesting, with its long rear pleat topped with triangle reinforcing stitching and a belted, buttoned back. Most plaid mackinaws were of very traditional designs which changed very little over the years. This particular Soo model was very modern and sport for the time it was made. It is lined in red flannel, and is marked young adult age/size 20, which going by the measurements, is about a men’s size 44 short.

Chest (pit to pit): 25″ (doubled = 50″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 19″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 23-1/2″
Length: 28″

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Red Head Brand hunting vest

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271286283056
This vintage hunting best was made by Red Head brand. The vest has a densely woven brown canvas duck shell. It has a five button front and knit loops for twenty four shotgun shells. Behind the buttons is a mid 1930s Talon zipper, a rare transitional model between the hookless style grommet zips of the early ’30s and the “deco” zips of the later 1930s. As you can see, the sunburst stopbox on this one has the “foot” of the earlier riveted model. The label’s somewhat perplexing, in that it bears the registered trademark symbol. The Lanham act of the 1940s regulated who could use this symbol, and generally you see it on garments of the 1940s and newer. I have seen other Redhead clothes with this version of the label attributed as being from the 1930s, and the zipper is fairly definitively datable to the middle of the 1930s. So- either Red Head was an early adopter of the symbol, or a 1930s zip was installed a decade after it was made.

Chest (pit to pit): 20-1/2″
Length: 18-3/4″

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1930s Suede Leather jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281142062357
This vintage leather jacket was made in the 1930s. From the rare variant of Talon zipper, it can be dated to about 1936 or 1937. It is made of brown suede leather, in a classic utility jacket style. From the sizing, I’d say this was made for the teenage market. Handwarmer pockets, yoked back, zip breast pocket, zip front, side adjuster belts. Both zippers are in excellent condition and work well.

Chest (pit to pit): 19″
Shoulder to shoulder: 15-1/2″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 22″
Length: 17-1/2″

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