1950s Woolrich 503 hunting coat

http://www.ebay.com/itm/401086929621

This vintage hunting jacket was made by the Woolrich Woolen Mills in the mid-late 1940s.  It has their wartime style pre (R) label, with the Woolrich branded snaps and asymmetrical breast pockets, helping to narrow down the dating to around 1946-48.
 
Chest (pit to pit): 23″ (doubled = 46″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 18-1/2″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24″
Length (base of collar to hem): 30″

 photo edit woolrich_1.jpg

 photo DSCF5583.jpg

 photo DSCF5584.jpg

 photo DSCF5586.jpg

 photo DSCF5587.jpg

 photo DSCF5589.jpg

Paul Bunyon hunting coat

http://www.ebay.com/itm/272122931065

This vintage coat was made in the 1930s by Paul Bunyon. It is a caped double mackinaw model, with a loop closure collar and doubled front pockets.

Chest (pit to pit):  24-1/2″ (doubled = 49″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 21-1/2″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 26-1/2″
Length (Base of collar to hem): 31″

 photo edit Paul Bunyan.jpg

 photo DSCF4413.jpg

 photo DSCF4414.jpg

 photo DSCF4416.jpg

 photo DSCF4417.jpg

The History of American Field

The Hettrick Mfg. Co. was founded in 1893 (or 1891, depending on the source) in Toledo, Ohio as a manufacturer of canvas goods, largely awnings and wagon covers.

[​IMG]

In 1921, they launched the “American Field” line of hunting garments. A bit of a late comer to the hunting game, they advertised their coats as designed by an “old timer”. Their factory was located at 1401 Summit Street, Toledo, Ohio. Unlike most of the other manufacturers of hunting clothes, Hettrick maintained their other interests after entering the hunting market, producing everything from canvas lawn chairs to tricycles.

1930s-1940s labels
[​IMG]

1940s-1950s labels
[​IMG]

Hettrick was purchased by the F&M Real Estate Company of Lowell, MA and in 1962, Hettrick closed its Ohio factories and moved to Statesville, NC to take advantage of the lower cost of manufacturing in the south. They moved production into the factory of the Empire Manufacturing Corp, who continued producing their own line from the same plant, with a secondary factory in Pink Hill, NC. It is unclear whether they were purchased by Empire, sources are conflicting. Empire ran a strongly anti-union shop, threatening employees in 1968 that if they unionized , they, “would do as up North, hire n. . . and put them on machines with you”. They were sued by employees, the threats were found to be unlawful and the case was used as an example in a Congressional subcommittee on labor.

1960s-1970s labels
[​IMG]

Shortly thereafter, in 1969, American Field was acquired by the Olin Corporation, manufacturer of Winchester rifles. In 1970, the Hettrick divistion acquired the J. W. Johnson Co of Bellwood, Ill and Dickey Oakwood Corp of Oakwood, Ohio. In 1971, Hettrick merged with Comfy Seattle Co and became Trailblazer by Winchester, “managing transactions for Comfy, the Turner Co., Olin Skiis, J.W. Johnson, Dickey Oakwood”, as well as factories in Pink Hill, Statesville and one in Corcoran, California built in 1970. While Hettrick as a company was absorbed, the American Field brand continued to be produced, with production shifted to the Pink Hill plant, reflected on labels.

1970s-1990s labels
[​IMG]

By the 1980s, the operation had been sold again, to WeatherShield Sports Equipment, Inc. (founded 1951) at Petoskey Rd. At Mercer Blvd., Charlevoix, MI. They lasted at least into the 1990s.

The History of Duxbak

Duxbak of Utica, New York was at one time one of the largest and highest quality manufacturers of hunting garments in the country.

The story begins with businessman Quentin McAdam (b.1851, d. 1919). McAdam started with his uncle’s company, Buckingham & Mitchell in 1867. By 1879, he bought out the company and renamed it, Quentin McAdam, wholesale notions. The company went through a series of partnerships and buyouts, becoming McAdam & Hart, then McAdam & Rathbun, then Rathbun & Company after McAdams departure. McAdam founded the Riverside Manufacturing Company of 3-5 Meadow Street, Utica, a manufacturer of “Workingman’s Clothes”, primarily overalls. McAdam sold Riverside to his business partners in 1899 and founded the Utica Knitting Company, which became one of the largest knitting mills in the country. While managing that concern, he was also president of Duxbak for a time.

Albert G. Jones (b.1856, d. 1928) started with Buckhingham & Mitchell in 1872, staying with it as a traveling salesman through the various changes in ownership until 1904. McAdam and Jones were among the organizers of the Commercial Travelers’ Accident Association in 1883, McAdam held the number 68 in that organization, Jones held no. 70. Within two years, 100,000 more had joined.

Jesse S. Bird had been superintendent at at McAdam’s Riverside Mfg. Co. workwear factory, with years of experience in manufacturing. Bird came up with the Duxbak name, though newspaper reports of how and where vary wildly from telling to telling, but all point to it having to do with their canvas being resistant to the elements like water off a duck’s back.

Harry B. Kenyon (b.1870, d. 1940) started with McAdam & Rathbun in 1885 and became a partner in 1893, working alongside Jones and McAdam.

[​IMG]

In 1903, Jesse Bird, Harry Kenyon and Albert Jones produced their first canvas hunting clothes. The company officially formed in 1904 as Bird, Kenyon & Jones. Their first factory was located at 4 Blandina Street, Utica, New York in the former J.A. Williams building. In addition to manufacturing hunting and outing clothes under the Duxbak and Kamp-It labels, Bird, Kenyon & Jones produced overalls under the Padlock Brand label in their early years.

Some later sources claim that Duxbak invented the hunting jacket. This is, of course, false, but they were among the first to produce a high quality version, and innovated many features which came to define the style. They used a fine grade of canvas which had been Cravenette processed for water repellency. They were also early producers of what they called, “outing clothing”, which would spawn an entire industry of purpose-built hiking and camping clothing. Early campers and hikers in the Adirondack region would simply wear an old set of clothes or suit in their outdoor pursuits. Duxbak saw the need for specialty outdoor wear and introduced their Kamp-It brand, which included an extensive lineup for women.

By 1908, Bird, Kenyon & Jones had outgrown their factory and expanded to the old Utica Casket Co. warehouse, located at 5 Hickory Street (later renamed to Noyes St.) The three story building had been moved to that site years earlier in three sections by canal from a location out of town.

In December of 1916, Jones bought out his business partners and reorganized under the name Utica Duxbak Corp. From this point on, it was a true family business, upon reorganization, the officers were, Ralph McAdam Jones, president; Wardwell Willoughby Jones, vice president; Albert Grosh Jones, treasurer and general manager; and Carlton Bucher Jones, secretary and assistant treasurer.

Left: 1904-1916, Middle: 1920s, Right: Late 1920s-early 1930s

[​IMG]

Left: c.1910s, Middle: 1920s-1940s, Right: 1950s
[​IMG]

Left: 1930s, Middle: 1930s-1940s, Right: 1930s-1940s

[​IMG]

In the decades that followed, Duxbak expanded their line to include wool hunting gear, produced under the Utica label, with fabric sourced from the Newton Woolen Mills of Homer, New York. Company literature claims they were the first to add leather reinforcement to hunting pants as protection against brush and brambles. They were also supposedly the first to introduce camouflage hunting gear.

Duxbak released a number of fabrics for and sub-lines of their coats over the years, including, “Mohawk”, “Montana Cloth”, “Sahib Poplin”, “Caprolan Nylon”, “Mains’le Cloth” and “Bobcat”.

During WWII, Duxbak contracted to the Army, but heavily promoted their existing hunting coats as workwear for shipbuilders and workers in airplane plants. Their hunting coat and hat wearing duck mascot was introduced c.1954 and the stylized duck logo was introduced in 1969 and used through to their closure.

[​IMG]

Their own quality may have contributed to their downfall. The heavy canvas and overengineered workmanship of Duxbak coats means they survived decades of heavy usage. In the 1920s and 1930s, Duxbak would advertise their product by hanging heavily worn examples from their earliest days in their display window; coats and vests which had outlived their original owners and were still in serviceable condition. In my vintage dealing, I regularly find Duxbak products from the 1920s with hunting licenses or objects in the pockets dating from the 1950s or 1960s. With no fashion world to contend with, Duxbak coats were passed down generation to generation.

[​IMG]

[​IMG]

They advertised themselves with pride as not just as the makers of the highest quality hunting gear on the market, but also the most expensive. Japanese and Korean made canvas hunting clothes flooded the market starting in the 1960s. Generally, it was made from thin canvas with simple details and was sold at a low price. Many US based canvas hunting clothes makers struggled to compete.

Duxbak remained a family owned business for over 80 years, with 3rd generation Gilbert Jones at the helm beginning in 1958. In 1986, facing serious financial problems, Duxbak sold to Holland Apparel of Fitzgerald, Georgia. The company had shrunk to 60 employees by the time the Utica concern was closed, with 35 in manufacturing and 25 in the offices and warehouse. Walls Industries of Texas bought the Duxbak brand name somewhere between 1990 and 1993 and continued production, with Cabelas as a major distributor. Walls was purchased by Williamson Dickie Holding, owners of Dickies workwear, in 2013. In time for the 100th anniversary of the company, Williamson Dickie quietly discontinued the brand without public announcement.

[​IMG]

by Spencer Stewart/ Vintage Haberdashers.  All rights reserved.

1930s Mackinaw stag coat

http://www.ebay.com/itm/272042555075

This vintage coat was made in the 1930s. It is a single breasted mackinaw, with handwarmer pockets and flapped cargo pockets.  It has a convertible roll collar.  This style was generally called a “stag coat” at the time. It has an interior wind flap and a double thick front.  At some point,it was re-lined with a heavy cotton lining, but it would have originally been made un-lined.

Chest (pit to pit): 22″ (doubled = 44″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 18″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 25-3/4″
Length (Base of collar to hem): 30-1/2″

 photo edit hunting.jpg

 photo DSCF9669.jpg

 photo DSCF9670.jpg

 photo DSCF9671.jpg

 photo DSCF9672.jpg

1920s canvas hunting jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/401020102346
This vintage hunting jacket was made in the 1920s- early 1930s. It has a corduroy collar, reinforced shoulders, large pockets and early style front access game pouch.

Chest (pit to pit): 24″ (doubled = 48″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 19″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 23″
Length (base of collar to hem): 27-1/2″

 photo DSCF1065.jpg

 photo DSCF1066.jpg

 photo DSCF1067.jpg

 photo DSCF1068.jpg

 photo DSCF1069.jpg

 photo DSCF1070.jpg

1930s LL Bean hunting coat

http://www.ebay.com/itm/401009346777
This vintage hunting coat was made in the 1930s and was sold by L.L. Bean Inc. of Freeport, Maine. It bears their early style yellow and black label. The style is very similar to early Woolrich coats, but opts for buttons on the pockets instead of their snaps.

Chest (pit to pit): 24″ (doubled = 48″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 20″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 25″
Length (base of collar to hem): 29″

 photo edit bean.jpg

 photo DSCF0633.jpg

 photo DSCF0634.jpg

 photo DSCF0635.jpg

 photo DSCF0636.jpg