BF Goodrich introduced the Zipper Boot in 1923. It was one of the earliest successful uses of the Hookless Slide Fastener. The fastener became so inseparable from the boot in these early years that the boot’s name, the Zipper came to be the generic term for what had previously been called the Hookless slide fastener. This ashtray depicts the early version of the boot, from about 1924, which features the no-hole version of the Hookless fastener.
A period advertisement for Hookless, showing a close-up view of the type of fastener depicted on this ashtray. Ad shown for descriptive purposes, and is not included with the ashtray.
This vintage canvas bag was mad by Wright & Ditson. It fastens at the end with a Talon Hookless fastener. At this point, the product was still known as Hookless, while the product was known as Talon. This has the transitional pull design which bears both the Hookless and the Talon names, with patent dates 3-20-17, 10-16-17, 11-25-19, 10-13-25, and 12-22-25 on the back . Consistent with this early date, the slider is unmarked and the end has D shaped stoppers. The ball pouch on the front of the bag has a Greek key trim patterned snap, made by the United States Fastener company, which merged in 1929 with Carr to form United Carr. This hardware pre-dates that merger, which puts the dating of this bag somewhere in the 1926-1930 range. The bag was originally owned by Elmer Giesick of Billings, Montana.
This vintage hunting best was made by Red Head brand. The vest has a densely woven brown canvas duck shell. It has a five button front and knit loops for twenty four shotgun shells. Behind the buttons is a mid 1930s Talon zipper, a rare transitional model between the hookless style grommet zips of the early ’30s and the “deco” zips of the later 1930s. As you can see, the sunburst stopbox on this one has the “foot” of the earlier riveted model. The label’s somewhat perplexing, in that it bears the registered trademark symbol. The Lanham act of the 1940s regulated who could use this symbol, and generally you see it on garments of the 1940s and newer. I have seen other Redhead clothes with this version of the label attributed as being from the 1930s, and the zipper is fairly definitively datable to the middle of the 1930s. So- either Red Head was an early adopter of the symbol, or a 1930s zip was installed a decade after it was made.
This jacket is a high end reproduction of the “Grizzly” style jacket, popular in the mid 1930s. It was made by Toyo Enterprises, who make jackets for Buzz Rickson, Sugar Cane and Style Eyes. Accurate down to the last detail, it bears a reproduction of a 1930s “Lakeland” hang tag. It has “laskinlamb” mouton panels on the front and back, with a matching mouton collar. The sleeves and trim are horsehide leather. The idea of these jackets was to put the insulation on the outside so that the wearer could have an unobstructed range of motion. They were promoted heavily in an athletic context, promoted by football players, that sort of thing. This jacket is as near as you can get to walking into a store in 1934 and buying one. It has an early Hookless grommet zipper, and dot snap. The original tags are still on the jacket and include a nice reproduction piece to accompany that zip. The front of the jacket is belted, as are the sleeves. There is a snap chinstrap to cinch it up at the neck. Inside, the body has a plaid lining, while the sleeves are lined in brown twill. There are wool storm cuffs to keep the breeze from blowing up the sleeves.
Tagged size: 42
Chest (pit to pit): 23″ (doubled = 46″)
Shoulder to Shoulder: 19″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 25-1/2″
Length (base of collar to hem): 26″