Action front 1960s sportcoat

Posted on April 27, 2013 by Spencer Stewart

This vintage tweed jacket was made by Greyhound. It is an unusual style, which makes dating a bit tricky, but from the lining and label, I would lean towards the early 1960s. Stylistically, it draws heavily from leisurewear of the 1940s. It has a Hollywood jacket style collar. There are twin breast pockets, which are still basted shut. Large, deep pleats run from these breast pockets to the flapped hip pockets. The jacket has a four button front and a square cutaway.

Chest (pit to pit): 24″
Shoulder to shoulder: 20-1/2″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24″
Length (bottom of collar to hem): 30″

Gray deadstock 1940s sweater twin set

Posted on April 27, 2013 by Spencer Stewart

This vintage men’s twin set was made in the 1940s by “Flosmore”. It’s an unusual material, with a knitted texture on one side and a fleece texture on the other. The original tag on an identical sweater I recently sold stated that it is made with a 100% wool pile and a 100% cotton back, treated to give it a fur like finish. The hang tag on this one is for the Dupont Zelan finish. The box is stamped that the set is a size Medium. (The stamp is above the XL printed on the box, which is some kind of stock indicator, not the size). It also comes with the original guarantee ticket. The set consists of a matching pullover sweatervest and five-button front cardigan. They are both in excellent condition and have never been worn. I would say the set would best fit someone in the size 38-40 range.

Vest
Chest (pit to pit, unstretched): 18″
Chest (pit to pit, stretched) : 22″
Length: 20″

Cardigan
Chest (pit to pit, unstretched): 21″
Chest (pit to pit, stretched): 25″
Shoulder to Shoulder: 18″
Shoulder to Cuff: 23″

Blue European Workwear jacket

Posted on April 22, 2013 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281096463565

This German work jacket has some very interesting detailing. When you first put it on, you’ll notice the buttons. They’re on the left side of the jacket instead of the right. They button through one set of buttonholes on the right placket, then through a second set, on a fly on the right side, bringing them back to where they belong, and entirely sealing the front of the jacket up from gusts of wind and dust. The jacket is caped, with the cape forming the pocket flaps of the breast pocket. The lining of the cape is rubberized. Underneath, in the front and back, are a set of pass through slits, possibly for a harness of some kind. The collar has a button throat latch underneath. The cuffs are an unusual design, again allowing for a tight seal with no gaps. It has elbow reinforcements, an internal waist adjuster drawstring, and interior cargo pockets.

Chest (pit to pit): 21″
Shoulder to Shoulder: 17″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24″
Length: 27″

Silver D-Pocket Motorcycle Jacket

Posted on April 19, 2013 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281095874481

This is a truly rare and unusual early D-Pocket motorcycle jacket. It is a Harley Davidson Cycle Champ style. The label is missing, but going by the Canadian made “Lightning” zips, it would appear this is an extremely early version of the pattern produced by the British Mfg. Co. It has early bell-shaped lightning zips, for the main and the sleeve zippers, with a Lightning chain zip on the D-pocket. The sleeves zip open, whereas on later Canadian-made versions of this jacket, they had gussets. There is a little snap belt at the end of the sleeve to further secure the cuff when zipped up, though one is missing. Studs on the pocket corners and on the epaulettes (though 3 of the 4 from the lapels are missing). These studs are the early rounded variety, where as later versions had ones which were more squared off. The epaulettes are of the early stitched down variety, whereas later examples had ones with snaps.
The most unusual feature is definitely the color. You don’t see a lot of silver leather jackets, and yes, that is the original color, it is not some kind of later re-spray. This was definitely a signature piece for some biker, and he wore it long and hard.

Heavy smoke smell which I have been unable to remove. Overall wear to leather. Wear through leather at collar. Damage and stitch separation to left cuff. Missing snap belt closure on right cuff. Missing one belt loop. Heavy damage to front belt leather. Separation to stitching on cigarette pocket. Wear to lining, worn through near cuffs.

Chest (pit to pit): 22″
Shoulder to Shoulder: 19″
Shoulder to cuff: 24″
Length (bottom of collar to hem): 22-1/2″
Waist: 18″

NYPD Leather Jacket

Posted on April 19, 2013 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271192753634

This vintage leather jacket was originally used by the New York Police Department. It is a heavy leather, in a classic utility jacket. The previous owner de-policed the look by removing the false breast pocket flaps and buttons, as well as the patches. It has two-directional talon zippers. The epaulettes have brass buttons with the seal of New York. The design of the NY seal was changed in 1977 to bear the date 1625. This is the earlier variant, with the date 1664. The jacket has a removable pile lining, attached with a Talon zipper. There are two interior pockets, and a pen pocket. There are stitch marks where there was once a label. The jacket has been heavily worn.
Chest (pit to pit): 22″
Shoulder to Shoulder: 18″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24″
Length: 24″

From the last owner:

I found this jacket in a dumpster on broadway in soho (just north of prince street) in the early 80’s. it still had the police equestrian patches and “brass” on it. I thought it was a godsend, fit me perfectly. I wore this jacket for years. I wore it on a trip through japan and china in 1986. this jacket is VERY near and dear to me, hence why I’m trying to sell it despite it’s poor condition, I can’t BEAR to throw it away, it breaks my heart to part with it, I swear I’m teary eyed typing this. I tried to give it away to 4 of my successive girlfriends throughout the years but I either got it returned to me or they told me to “hold on it for them”. I’m hoping someone with a strong desire to own a nice (“cool”) leather jacket who wants to buy one cheap will come along who also has substantial sewing skills and wants to invest the time in making the sewing repairs necessary. oh, one tidbit, one side of the zipper was starting to come undone while I was in china and I met a street tailor in beijing who kindly sewed it back in place for me. I was absolutely OVERJOYED. me, I think this is a lovely jacket, it has a magnificent patina of age and wear, I think it’s PERFECTLY aged and patinaed. if it would fit me I’d continue to wear it!!

1950s Civilian bomber jacket

Posted on April 19, 2013 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271192744622

This vintage leather jacket was made in the 1950s, and is a civilian bomber jacket style. Some fairly recently, the zipper was replaced with a USA made YKK Vislon (nylon) zipper. It’s not original, but it works well. The jacket has a nice undercurve to the collar. It has stitched down epaulettes, handwarmer pockets and a one piece back. There are vented underarm gussets.

Chest (pit to pit): 23″
Shoulder to Shoulder: 20″
Sleeve (shoulder to end of knit): 24:
Length: 24″

British Cycle Leathers motorcycle Jacket

Posted on April 13, 2013 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271189228147

This vintage motorcycle jacket was made in Montreal, Canada by the British Mfg. Company under their “British Cycle Leathers” label. These are a copy of the Harley Davidson Cycle Champ design of the 1940s. It features a large D-pocket with cigarette pocket, a diagonal zipped front with snaps on the lapels, but not the collar, and studs on the pockets and epaulettes. The cuffs are zipped. All zippers are Canadian made Lightning brand, with oval pullers. Please note that all Canadian made zippers have the slider on the left track, in the European tradition. The liner is a plaid flannel, a real throwback to the 1940s roots of this design. The leather has some wonderful grain. While it has started to develop a nice patina, the usual spots (cuff, collar) are in great shape. There are several places where the stitching has let go, in particular the bottom of the zipper. These should all be easy fixes, though, as the leather and zipper tape are still in solid condition.

Tagged size: 38
Chest (pit to pit): 20″
Shoulder to Shoulder: 17″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24″
Waist: 17-1/2″
Length (collar seam to hem): 21-1/2″

For another in this model, made a little bit later, please see This Jacket

Buck Skein 2-tone ricky

Posted on April 13, 2013 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281092833474
This vintage two tone Ricky jacket was made by Buck Skein in the early-mid 1950s. Buck Skein advertised these styles heavily in spring-summer of 1954. This one is made of a lightweight, breathable fabric, probably a linen-rayon blend. It is unlined, and has a brass Talon zipper. With a 50″ chest measurement, this fits as a size 46.

Chest (pit to pit): 25″ (doubled =50″)
Shoulder to Shoulder: 20″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24″
Waist: 22″ (doubled = 44″)
Length (collar seam to hem): 23″

1950s Windward Steerhide jacket

Posted on April 5, 2013 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271183853958

This vintage leather jacket was made in the 1950s. It was sold by Montgomery Ward under their “Windward” line. Stylistically, it is about halfway in between an A-2 style flight jacket and a utility jacket. It has flapped pockets with side entry handwarmers, and epaulettes. It has a one piece back, with a leather hem and cuffs. The cuffs have decorative buttons at the ends. One is missing on the left sleeve. The jacket originally had a Conmar zipper. The puller is missing and the track is missing teeth, so it will definitely need to be replaced. There are elasticized side panels to provide a sung fit. The lining is qulited, and there are knit storm cuffs in the sleeves.

Chest (pit to pit): 21″
Shoulder to Shoulder: 17″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24″
Length (bottom of collar to hem): 23″

RRL Ralph Lauren beach jacket

Posted on April 5, 2013 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271183858680

This jacket was made as part of Ralph Lauren’s high end RRL line. It draws obvious influence from workwear garments of the 1930s. It is a sleeved waistcoat design, with a snap front and buckle back. It is equal parts hunting mackinaw, railroad vest and Brown’s Beach jacket. It is unlined, and has taped seams. Snaps are marked Double R L.

Chest (pit to pit): 24″
Shoulder to shoulder: 19″
Sleeve (Shoulder to cuff): 25″
Length (collar to hem): 27″

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Tag Archives: style

Action front 1960s sportcoat

Gray deadstock 1940s sweater twin set

Blue European Workwear jacket

Silver D-Pocket Motorcycle Jacket

NYPD Leather Jacket

1950s Civilian bomber jacket

British Cycle Leathers motorcycle Jacket

Buck Skein 2-tone ricky

1950s Windward Steerhide jacket

RRL Ralph Lauren beach jacket