1920s Patrick Duluth red mackinaw coat

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271349036566
This vintage coat was made in the late 1920s through early 1930s by the F.A. Patrick woolen mills of Duluth, Minnesota. It is made of red and black point blanket material. While nearly identical in weight, feel and point design to the point blankets made by the Hudson’s Bay Company, the material in this coat was made in-house in one of Patrick’s woolen mills. Patrick was renowned for their high quality blankets and woolen fabric. The coat has classic double breasted styling, with a button-on belt. As was typical on mackinaws of the 1910s-1930s, the coat is unlined, relying on the quality and weight of the wool for insulation. Patrick did an excellent job with marketing- their coats were the official uniforms of the White Sox, the NY Giants, the Chicago Cubs, the Duluth Eskimos (Later the Washington Redskins) among others. This is the same model, though in a different point blanket color combination, as worn by the Eskimos in the late 1920s.

Chest (pit to pit): 22″
Shoulder to Shoulder: 18″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 25-1/2″
Length: 36″

A bit about the company, from a history piece I wrote for “The Fedora Lounge”
: The F.A. Patrick Company, proprietors of the Patrick-Duluth Woolen Mills of Duluth, Minnesota were responsible for taking the Mackinaw coat out of lumber camps of western Canada and introducing them to students, workmen and athletes across the United States. Early on, the Patrick Company were jobbers, making dry goods, primarily for clients in the Northwest of the United States in Canada. In 1901, Patrick began buying fabric from a Scandinavian mackinaw cloth factory in Fosston, Minnesota. In 1906, seeing potential, Patrick bought that factory and began making their own Mackinaw cloth, eventually becoming one of its leading producers. The fabric and the coats made from it were popular with miners, fur trappers, lumberjacks and hunters.

In 1912, Patrick launched a new, refined mackinaw design. It was double breasted, belted and sported a collar described in the ads of the period as a “nansen” collar. Though the term also existed then, we now refer to this style as a shawl collar. The coat was 35″ long and was available in 24 and 32 oz wool mackinaw cloth, in a wide variety of colors. Salesman Harry Harrington began to pitch the Patrick Mackinaw to clothiers in college towns. “It was not long after that that mackinaws became a fad with students generally, and as the college student invariably sets the styles for young men’s clothing, it quickly spread over the whole country”. The early mackinaw trend was marketed in a similar way to the current workwear trend, trading on the rugged associations of the workers for whom the garment was originally designed. The mackinaw fad boomed, and shortly, a number of other manufacturers sprung onto the scene, producing mackinaws of varying quality from a variety of cloths. Large quantities of Patrick mackinaws were sold through such high end stores as Brooks Brothers, Rogers Peet, Wannamaker, Abercrombie and Fitch, Brokaw Brothers, and A. Raymond.
It is around this 1912-1913 period where the name “Mackinaw” begins to be more associated with the short, double breasted, shawl collar style, and less with the mackinaw cloth material from which it was made. The fad lasted about a year and a half. Patrick could not keep up with the growing demand caused by the collegiate fad, and the inferior fabric quality of some competitors led to the downfall of this first-wave craze.

Seeing the end of the craze, Patrick-Duluth re-branded its mackinaw once again, refining its pattern and marketing it to farmers, children, hunters and outdoorsmen, workers, and sportsmen. Its durability, warmth, low price compared to comparable overcoats or sheeplined coats, made it an easy sell to these markets. Alongside sheeplined canvas coats, Patrick Mackinaws became the de-facto winter coat of railroad employees. To further expand the market, patterns were made for men and women, boys and girls. Patrick intensified their national advertising, placing ads in the Saturday Evening Post, Country Gentleman, Farm Journal, Woman’s World, American Boy, Youth’s Companion, Boy’s Life, and many more. The name of the product was shortened from “Patrick-Duluth Woolen Mill Mackinaw” to simply “Patrick”, in a bid to make their brand name the generic trade name on the market, thereby foiling the business of competitors. Their slogan “Bigger than Weather” was penned by Elbert Hubbard. Ads were illustrated by Peter Newell and Clare Briggs. In the years between 1911 and 1914, Patrick had quadrupled its production, expanding from their two story mill to a six story mill on Duluth habror, a garment factory in Duluth, and knitting and spinning mills in Mankato, MN.

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Carter & Churchill

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281228705281

This vintage coat was made in the 1920s by the Carter & Churchill Company of Lebanon, NH. The point blanket fabric was the most expensive option for this style of coat at the time, offering the greatest durability and warmth. The coat has a classic early mackinaw cut, with unlined construction, handwarmer pockets high on the chest, and flapped hip pockets. The coat has a buttoned belt (later ones generally had ones with buckles). The points of the blanket are thick and proudly on display. While the company which made this coat survived in various forms for decades, they stopped using this particular tag in the early 1930s.

Chest (pit to pit): 24″ (doubled = 48″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 18-1/2″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 25-1/4″
Length: 32-1/2″

A bit about the company, from a piece I wrote for “The Art of Vintage Leather Jackets”: Carter and Churchill was founded in 1869 by William S. Carter, after leaving his uncle’s company, H.W. Carter & Sons. He was joined by Frank C. Churchill (former salesman for HW Carter), who would come to be the company’s treasurer. The company was headquartered in Lebanon, New Hampshire, with a plant at 15 Parkhurst Street. Starting in 1880, they produced clothing under the “Profile” label, named after the (former) New Hampshire rock formation, the Old Man of the Mountain. They registered that trademark in 1916. Early on, they were also producers of Lebanon Overalls, work shirts, mackinaws and coats. As the decades wore on, they dropped product lines to specialize in their ski clothing lines, which they continued producing into the 1990s, under the “Profile” name.

 

 

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1960s rockabilly blanket shirt jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271349058704
This vintage shirt jacket was probably made in the 1960s. The influence of Hudson’s Bay point blanket coats is clear, with the classic red color scheme with black stripe. The cut is taken from a pullover shirt style of the 1950s, with two buttons at the neck. This one was probably made from a pattern for such a shirt, but made of striped material. It’s not wool, some kind of fleecy synthetic, but with its napped surface, it looks the part.

Chest (pit to pit): 27″
Shoulder to shoulder: 20″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24″
Length: 28″

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Jeffrey Banks / Lakeland shawl collar mackinaw

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281228720082
This vintage coat was made by Lakeland in the late 1970s as a reproduction of a 1930s shawl collar mackinaw. Having compared it to originals in my collection, the detailing is very close. While the vibrant red color may seem like a modern twist on the design, it was one offered in the 1910s and 1920s by early companies producing this style, like F.A. Patrick, Duluth. The coat is double breasted, with a shawl collar, a buttoned belt, and large flapped patch pockets. It has a center vent, and has a warm quilted lining.

Chest (pit to pit): 24″
Shoulder to shoulder: 19″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24-1/2″
Length: 32-1/2″

 

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Lee TWA / Pratt & Whitney work jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271349078220
This vintage work jacket was made by Lee, better known for its denim jackets and jeans. The jacket is a waist length style, and bears patches for Pratt & Whitney and for TWA (Trans World Airlines). It still has its original zip in quilted liner. The main zipper is a brass Talon. It has bi-swing shoulder, reinforced elbows, slash handwarmer pockets and adjuster tabs on the waistband.

Chest (pit to pit): 24-1/2″
Shoulder to shoulder: 19″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24-1/2″
Length: 24″

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1940s Mexican Export Stetson fedora

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271327386878
This vintage fedora was made in Philadelphia, PA in the mid 1940s by the John B. Stetson company. Interestingly, it was a rare export model, sold in Mexico. As such, it has variants on the early style reorder tags and on the size tag, with the sizes in metric. The hat has a raw edge brim and a self-felt hatband. It is made in a luxurious “suede finish” fur felt. The hat is creased with a teardrop crown. It has the early style detailed Stetson imprints on the sweatband and liner, transitional sweatband construction, and was sold by Salinas y Rocha, Alameda, Mexico

Size: 7
Brim Width: 2-3/4″
Crown Height: 5-1/4″

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1940s Stetson Plastic Felt

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271327402640
This vintage Stetson fedora was made in the mid 1940s. It is made of Stetson’s short lived “Plastic Felt”, a wool blend with a portion made of “Vinyon”. The hat originally sold for $5, and was marketed as being water resistant. The hat is made from four pieces of this miracle felt- the crown sides, the crown top, the brim, and the brim binding, all stitched together like a cloth hat. The hat is stitched for extra strength. It is light brown with an orange ribbon, one of the “Autumn Shades” mentioned in the original advertising. It has an unreeded brown leather sweatband, with the Stetson Plastic Felt logo.

Size: 7
Brim Width: 2-1/2″
Crown Height: 4-1/2″

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Stetson Moose River

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271327411225

This hat was made by the John B. Stetson company for LL Bean. It is a variation on the classic “Open Road” model, but with a narrower, raw edge. It looks like the original owner followed the marketing and wore it as a rugged outdoorsy type of fedora. As such, the sweatband needs to be replaced.

Size: 7-1/8
Brim Width: 2-1/2″
Crown Height: 5-1/4″

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1940s Sportsman’s vest

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271324386244
This vintage fly fishing vest was made in the 1930s or 1940s. It is similar in cut and style to two made by Remington under the DriDux label which I recently sold, but no longer has a tag, so I can’t say for certain. It has a three button front, with two large wraparound cargo pockets. There is a flapped breast pocket. The other side has a felt pad to store flies in. Most have a simple piece of sheepskin, but this one snaps closed for greater storage and protection. The vest has a fly rod loop on one side, and a metal ring to attach gear to on the other.

Also see: https://vintagehaberdashers.com/2013/11/09/rem-dridux/

https://vintagehaberdashers.com/2013/10/26/hunting-and-fishing-jacket/

Chest (pit to pit): 22″ (doubled = 44″)
Length: 21-1/2″

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1930s Red Head Brand hunting coat

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281208719396
This vintage canvas hunting coat was made in the mid 1930s by Red Head brand, a premier maker of hunting and outdoorsman’s sportswear at the time. This one has a heavy canvas shell, with a corduroy collar and corduroy lined cuffs. The shoulders are reinforced. With a setup similar to an early 1920s Filson coat, https://vintagehaberdashers.com/2013/10/19/1910s-1920s-filson-canvas-jacket/, This coat has a double breast pocket (a small pocket overtop a larger one, which share the same flap). The hip pockets are double round patch pockets which share the same extra large flap. These pockets are leather reinforced. There is an internal game pocket, accessible from the back, or from the inside. The game pocket opens with an early bell-shaped Talon zipper, which helps date the coat. Buttons are Red Head branded. The coat was originally sold in Detroit by the Tool Shop Company.

Chest (pit to pit): 26″ (doubled = 52″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 22″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24-1/2″
Length (base of collar to hem): 30″

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