Deadstock Wigwam Award Sweater

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281130733154
This vintage sweater was made by the Wigwam Hand Knit Hosiery Company of Sheboygan, Wisconsin for Marvin Goetsch. It has his name chain-stitched on a felt patch under the hem. Despite this, it is still neatly folded in the original store box, and appears to have never been worn. The sweater is a rich blue wool.

Chest (pit to pit, unstretched): 19″ (doubled = 38″)
Chest (pit to pit, stretched): 26″ (doubled = 52″)
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff, cuffed): 22″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff, uncuffed): 25″
Shoulder to Shoulder: 17″
Length: 29″

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1930s H.B. Glover utility jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281130396211
This vintage leather jacket was made in the late 1930s by the H.B. Glover Company of Dubuque, IA. It is a classic utility jacket style, with some very nice detailing. While it does not have a half-belt back, it has the side belt adjusters which are usually associated with it. On the front there are flapped pockets. Under one of the flaps is a smaller ticket pocket, fasted with a talon chain-style zipper. The breast pockets close under the shoulder yoke. The front is done up with a Talon Zipper of the type used in the late ’30s through early 1940s. It has a brown painted deco-ray stop box, marked slider and marked pull tab. There are leather knot buttons on the cuffs. The lining of the jacket is heavily stained and worn and sports the “Tailored by Glover” tag at the neck.

Chest (pit to pit): 20-1/2″
Shoulder to Shoulder: 17″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 23″
Length (bottom of collar to hem): 23-1/2″

The H.B. Glover Company was founded in Dubuque, Iowa in 1857. They grew rapidly from the 1870s through to the turn of the century. Early on, the company was known for their Pajamas, but they quickly added shirts, overalls, and other items of workwear to their product line. By 1913, Glover was one of the top selling overall brands. (Source)

Picture of factory, center left, 1904. 5th and Iowa Streets, Dubuque.
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By the 1920s, Glover introduced leather jackets. Depending on the jacket ads and labels read “Tailored By Glover”, “H.B. Glover”, or “Glover Sportswear”. Glover had an endorsement deal in 1925 with the “Four Horsemen” of the Notre Dame football team, who sported their leather blouses (jackets).

According to the 1936 article “World of Romance Behind Glover Company Products”, Glover took great pride in their materials. “Most of the raw materials used in Glover Sportswear (Jackets, Coats, Ski Pants, Snow Suits, etc.) originate in the West and the Glover company in selling its goods is emphasizing this very fact. Wool from Wisconsin, Montana, the Dakotas; Mohair from Del Rio and San Angelo; Sheel leather, Horsehide, Piggrain, etc., from the great plains . . . all these find their way into Glover Sportswear. And yet not all grades of woolens and leathers are good enough for Glover garments. The selected Western Range Woolens, for example, are chosen with infinite care. The choicest portion is bought right on the range, direct from the sheep raiser, thereby eliminating costly brokerage fees and the handling of the wool in dirty, crowded warehouses.”

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1929

1931

1933

1934

1937

1947

1940s Californian Suede halfbelt

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271232887206
This vintage leather jacket was made by the California Sportswear Company of Los Angeles, California under their “Californian” brand. It has classic half-belt styling with side belt adjusters. The front closes with buttons, which are of the leather knot/football type. This jacket has jacket style lapels instead of the shirt style collar you generally see on short leather jackets of this style. There are dual vertical breast pockets.

Chest (pit to pit): 21″
Shoulder to Shoulder: 17″
Sleeve (Shoulder to Cuff): 24-1/2″
Length (base of collar to hem): 28″

 

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Custom made Pendleton blanket coat

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271232918925
This vintage coat was handmade from a Pendleton Indian blanket. It is buttonless, probably meant to be worn with a belt, and has a hood. There are identical pockets on the inside of the jacket as the outside, which would seem to suggest that it is reversible. The finishing on the seams inside the sleeve suggests otherwise. There are holes in and by the pocket, by the corner of the cutaway and the start of one by the collar seam.

Chest (pit to pit): 23″
Shoulder to Shoulder: 17″
Sleeve (Shoulder to Cuff): 22″
Length (bottom of hood to hem): 29″

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1950s Swedish / German Goatskin utility jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271226620665

This vintage leather jacket was sold by Albackens of Malung, Sweden. The design is typical of what was coming out of German shops of this period. It is made of black goatskin, in a classic utility jacket style. It has a zipp zipper. There are a number of teeth missing on the zippers, but it still zips up well. There are buckle adjusters on the sides, and button tabs on the sleeves. The leather has a wonderful patina.

Chest (pit to pit): 19″ (38″ chest)
Shoulder to shoulder: 16″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 22″
Length: 23″

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Zippers come to jackets, 1927-1930

The fully separable zipper was invented in 1927 by Gideon Sundback. It’s covered by patents 1813433 and 1813432.
From the invention of the zipper in 1913 until that point, zippers had been limited in their usage by an attached end. It was suitable for coverall suits, luggage and pullovers. But it made it inconvenient for applications in jackets. The new unlockable/ fully separable bottom end of the zipper allowed for its easy usage on jackets. By 1930, zipper fronted jackets were well on their way to becoming common.

1925. Typical 1920s style. Button front, marketed as a windbreaker, specifically for the sporting set. Suede was extremely common in this era.
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1929. Before the modern separable bottom to the zipper, this pullover style was the workaround.
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1930. Early zipper front style.
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Hank Snow’s Hudson’s Bay Blanket Coats

Headshot, 1946
It’s only appropriate that Hank Snow wore a Hudson’s Bay Blanket coat. This style of blanket coat was a Canadian icon, as well as being favored by cowboy star, Tom Mix. His coats can be seen here. Like Mix’s coat, Snow’s was custom tailored, and had the unusual detail of the sleeve stripe running lengthwise. Early in his career, Snow wore a similarly styled and creased cowboy hat to Mix. Both also favored bow ties.
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Christmas with Hank Snow, 1967
By the 1960s, Snow was wearing a new coat, also custom tailored. It had four pleated patch pockets with an unusual round shape. The coat had a 4×8 double breasted front, and a wrap-around belted back.
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Hits Covered by Snow, 1969
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For much more on Hank Snow and western style please visit Golden West Clothing.

Pioneer Scooter Club jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271203622483

This vintage jacket was made in the mid 1950s. The label is missing, so the maker is currently unknown. It is made from a gabardine material, with a conmar zip, and pick stitched collar and pockets. There are elastic panels at the side of the waistband, and button adjusters on the cuff. The Pioneer Scooter club was active in San Francisco starting in 1960. Around this time, this ricky jacket was retrofitted for scooter use with leather elbow patches, and a club patch and pin. From the wear and staining to the jacket, it is clear that the original owner was active within the club membership. Scroll down the listing to see photos of an early “Pioneer Scooter Club” rally. Lots of Vespas and Lambrettas, and the club patch clearly visible.

Chest (pit to pit): 22-1/2″
Shoulder to shoulder: 18″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24-1/2″
Length (base of collar to hem): 22-1/2″
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Levi’s Type 1 jacket reproduction

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271202863443

This jacket was made by Levi Strauss and Co.. It is a reproduction of their Type 1 denim jacket, produced from the turn of the century until it was supplanted by the Type II in 1956. It has a pleated front, single breast pocket, and buckle back. This one has a slider buckle instead of the pronged type like the original would have had. The denim is factory distressed, as are the buttons. The styling makes me think LVC repro, but the combination of the small “E” on the red tab, non selvedge denim, and the 70535-9954 model no. on the tag make me wonder if it might just be a short-lived reissue by the main branch of the company.

Chest (pit to pit): 24″
Shoulder to shoulder: 19″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 26″
Length (Base of collar to hem): 25″

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Buck Skein blanket coat

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271199111185
This vintage coat was made by the Buck Skein company. They advertised these coats with the “Thermalized Weather Control Lining” from 1955 to 1959, and this coat likely dates within that time frame. This striped blanket material was a high end fabric of the time, and generally sold for significantly more than other variants in the same cut. The buttonholes wore out and were re-stitched and the label has been worn down. Sometimes wear comes from abuse, but these are signs of a coat that was worn daily for decades, and loved. That kind of wear seems fairly typical for coats like this, which were truly investments when new, yet were casual, outdoorsy garments. This one is a single breasted style, with a four button front. It has double button belts at the wrists and large patch cargo pockets. The lining is quilted.

Chest (pit to pit): 25″
Shoulder to shoulder: 21″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 25″
Length (base of collar to hem: 34″

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