Battered A-2

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281204190634
This vintage A-2 leather flight jacket was made during the 1940s. It has a spring-loaded zipper introduced in 1943 by Crown. This type, with “two-way” teeth, was designed exclusively for the military with larger versions finding their way onto the turrets of bombers to keep the wind out. Featuring this late-war military zipper, the jacket may have been private purchase. Snaps are of a ball style, and were made by Rau of Providence, Rhode Island, and have exposed backs. Pockets have nicely scalloped flaps, with the size tag stitched on the inside. The collar is long and pointed, and is attached directly to the body of the jacket The leather jacket hanger is off-center, stitched with “X” style stitching. The jacket has a khaki liner, which is in very good shape. Unfortunately, the original tag is long since missing.

Chest (pit to pit): 21″
Shoulder to shoulder: 17″
Sleeve (shoulder to end of knit cuff): 24-1/2″
Length (base of collar to end of knit cuff): 23″

Also see: https://vintagehaberdashers.com/2013/03/08/original-a2-leather-jacket/

 photo IMG_0070-1.jpg photo IMG_0071-1.jpg

 photo IMG_0073.jpg

 photo IMG_0077.jpg

 photo IMG_0078-1.jpg

 photo IMG_0080.jpg

 photo IMG_0087.jpg

 photo IMG_0088.jpg

 photo IMG_0089.jpg

 photo IMG_0090.jpg

 photo IMG_0092.jpg

 photo IMG_0095.jpg

 photo IMG_0099.jpg

 photo IMG_0103.jpg

 photo IMG_0104.jpg

Rem DriDux

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281204172608
This vintage fishing vest was made in the 1930s or 1940s by Remington under the Rem DriDux label. The fabric was advertised as “snag-pruf” and as being guaranteed water repellent. There are pleated breast pockets, and wraparound double hip pockets. One has a divider with separate flaps, one has a single flap. There is a fly rod loop, a waist drawstring, pockets on each sleeve, and a roomy rear game pocket. Hanging from the fly rod loop is a pair of nail clippers, probably to cut fishing line with. There are two interior pockets. This type of vest was generally advertised as a sleeveless jacket or a sleeveless coat. I recently sold another by the same maker, sold under the “WeatherBak” label, which had sleeves.

Chest (pit to pit): 23″ (doubled = 46″)
Length: 23″

 photo IMG_0053.jpg

 photo IMG_0054.jpg

 photo IMG_0055.jpg

 photo IMG_0056.jpg

 photo IMG_0057.jpg

 photo IMG_0058.jpg

 photo IMG_0060.jpg

 photo IMG_0062.jpg

 photo IMG_0063.jpg

 photo IMG_0064.jpg

 photo IMG_0065.jpg

 photo IMG_0066-1.jpg

 photo IMG_0069-1.jpg

J.O. Ballard Malone mackinaw

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281200082748
This vintage mackinaw was made by J.O. Ballard & Co. of Malone, New York. The company was founded in 1888 by Jay Olin Ballard, and traded alternately under the J.O Ballard name and the name, Malone Woolen Mills. The company began making wool outdoorsman’s breeches in 1891 and followed up with mackinaw coats like this one. They were famous for their Malone plaid- gray with red and green overchecks. Coats of this cut were advertised to hunters, hikers, mountain climbers, lumberjacks, workmen and all other stripes of outdoorsmen. The depression closed the company in 1933. It re-opened again in 1935 with the assistance of an Reconstruction Finance Corporation loan, a depression era loan program.
The coat has four flapped pockets and two slash pockets. The slash pockets, in the traditional position of handwarmer pockets, pass through directly to the game pocket. There is also access to the game pocket from flaps on the back of the coat. Unlike the similar Woolrich design, this one has buttons on the pockets instead of snaps and exposed buttoning on the front. The lining is mustard colored cotton. The sleeves have buttoned adjusters.

Chest (pit to pit): 22-1/2″ (doubled = 45″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 19″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24″
Length: 29″

 

 photo IMG_0072.jpg

 photo IMG_0082.jpg

 photo IMG_0074.jpg

 photo IMG_0085.jpg

 photo IMG_0078.jpg

 photo IMG_0079.jpg

 photo IMG_0086.jpg

 photo IMG_0088-1.jpg

 photo 190301.jpeg

 photo 192101Stitch.jpg

 photo 192104Stitch.jpg

 photo 192201.jpeg

 photo 192202.jpeg

 photo 192502Stitch.jpg

 photo 193401.jpeg

 photo 193402.jpeg

 photo 194101.jpeg

 photo 193301.jpeg

Guiterman Bros 1930s Town and Country leather jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271307079241
This vintage leather jacket was made in the early to mid 1930s by Guiterman Brothers, under the Town and Country label. The company was founded in 1883, and began the “Town and Country” line in 1904. They produced flying coats for US aviators during World War One, and pioneered early civilian leather jacket designs starting in the 1910s. In c. 1928, the company was bought out by Gordon and Ferguson, who continued the line. This jacket as a rare early example of a button-front Cossack jacket. Early Cossack jackets, c. 1930-c.1934 generally featured leather waistband and plain backs. This is an early example of the transitional style, retaining the collar, cuff and pocket detailing from the early jackets, but moving away into what would become the half-belt jackets of the later 1930s-1950s. The back is belted, with bi-swing shoulders and side adjusters. The front still has an old style button front, instead of a hookless zipper. The jacket buttons right over left, which, along with the shoulder darts, identify this as a women’s jacket. Other than these details, early on, men’s and women’s styles were generally extremely similar patterns. As was typical of many of these early jackets, this one is made with the suede side out. For jackets of this style, it wasn’t until later in the 1930s that weight started to become a major concern. These were really designed as lightweight leather windbreakers for sporting activities. Gordon and Ferguson had the exclusive rights to the Cravenette process for leather, and it is employed on this one.

Chest (pit to pit): 20″
Shoulder to shoulder: 16-1/2″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24″
Length: 23″

 

 photo IMG_0040-1.jpg

 photo IMG_0042-1.jpg

 photo IMG_0045-1.jpg

 photo IMG_0046-1.jpg

 photo IMG_0048-2.jpg

Ad from 1934.
 photo 193401.jpeg
Ad from 1935
 photo 193501.jpeg

Soo Woolen Mills plaid surcoat

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281198324999
This vintage plaid mackinaw coat was made by the Soo Woolen Mills of Sault Ste. Marie, Michigan immediately after WWII. It has a surcoat zipper attachment and length. The main zipper is a rare transitional talon- with a Talon marked stop box of the type used in the mid-late 1940s. The main zip has a square sided, square holed puller, a type used very briefly as they were transitioning between the square edged pullers with a small hole and round ended pullers with a larger hole. The pockets zip with bell shaped, round holed Conmar zippers. The overall cut of the coat is interesting, with its long rear pleat topped with triangle reinforcing stitching and a belted, buttoned back. Most plaid mackinaws were of very traditional designs which changed very little over the years. This particular Soo model was very modern and sport for the time it was made. It is lined in red flannel, and is marked young adult age/size 20, which going by the measurements, is about a men’s size 44 short.

Chest (pit to pit): 25″ (doubled = 50″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 19″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 23-1/2″
Length: 28″

 photo IMG_0035-2.jpg

 photo IMG_0036-1.jpg

 photo IMG_0043-3.jpg

 photo IMG_0044-1.jpg

 photo IMG_0045-2.jpg

 photo IMG_0046-2.jpg

 photo IMG_0047-3.jpg

1950s Stetson Whippet

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271309638338
This vintage fedora hat was made by the John B. Stetson company in the mid 1950s. It is their iconic ” Whippet ” model, with a wide bound brim and a broad ribbon band. It has a brown leather sweatband with the dark style of imprint used briefly by Stetson in the mid 1950s. It is made at the “Royal Stetson” grade, and was sold by Silverwoods of Southern California for an original purchase price of $10.

Size: 7-1/8
Brim Width: 2-1/2″
Ribbon Width:1-5/8″
Crown Height: 5-1/2″

 photo IMG_0002-1.jpg

 photo IMG_0003-1.jpg

 photo IMG_0004-2.jpg

 photo IMG_0005-2.jpg

 photo IMG_0006-3.jpg

 photo IMG_0007-2.jpg

 photo IMG_0050-2.jpg

 photo IMG_0049-1.jpg

 photo IMG_0048-3.jpg

 photo IMG_0012-1.jpg

 photo IMG_0013-3.jpg

1930s AlPeru overcoat

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281197994086
This vintage overcoat was made in the late 1930s by Roger Williams from Alperu fabric and was sold by The Fair, either at their Chicago or Oak Park location. In the 1930s, these Alperu fabric overcoats retailed for $40. In today’s money, that’s the equivalent of a $650 coat. Despite the “Warmth Without Weight” slogan, this is quite a heavyweight coat. It is single breasted, with notch lapels, flapped patch pockets and half-cuffed sleeves. The coat is fully lined and has a vertical interior breast pocket.

I love all these brand names from the 1930s and 1940s.  Alperu.  Alpacama, Alpagora, IncaPaca, Algora, BalPaca, etc.

Chest (pit to pit): 24″(doubled = 48″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 20″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 26″
Length: 44″

 photo IMG_0051-2.jpg

 photo IMG_0052-2.jpg

 photo IMG_0053.jpg

 photo IMG_0055-1.jpg

 photo IMG_0054-1.jpg

 photo IMG_0057-1.jpg

 photo 1935.jpeg

 photo 1939.jpeg

1920s Wool A-1 jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281196431961

This vintage jacket was made prior to 1926 in a wool A-1 style out of Hudson’s Bay point blankets.

In the early 1920s, a style of jacket emerged that would later come to be adapted into the A-1 flight jacket. This style had knit cuffs, a knit collar and a knit waistband, to keep of the wind and cold. It was produced in both wool and leather, and was marketed toward men who spent time out of doors- workmen and sportsmen. By the mid 1920s, the style started to evolve, with some makers dropping the knit collar for one in a shirt style made of the same material as the body. That variant, made in leather, later became the A-2 flight jacket. This jacket dates from the transitional period between the two. It has a waist length cut with a knit waistband and cuffs. It has a button front, as the separable bottomed zipper pioneered by Hookless Fastener, which allowed for zipper fronted jackets, would not go into production until 1930. Although most jackets of this style had flapped patch pockets, the positioning of them varied by maker and model. While some had them down towards the waistband in a setup now considered conventional, this one has them positioned midway up the chest.

The chinstrap detail is taken straight from workshirts of the period- constructed in the same way, with an extended collar stand with two buttonholes. The two tone nature of the red and black blanket material allows for a great two tone look, highlighting the pocket flaps and the collar.

The jacket is constructed from a three point sized Hudson’s Bay Company Point blanket. This material would have pushed this particular jacket into the top of the line position for this style. Jackets such as this made from HBC blankets were regularly double (or more) the cost of a heavyweight wool jacket of the same model and manufacturer. It was often an even pricier material option than the horsehide or capeskin leather options. The Hudson Bay blankets have a long and proud tradition in the history of rugged clothing for outdoorsmen. An icon of Canadian culture, the blankets at this time were made in England. The first mackinaw coats were tailored from then in 1780. Fur traders wore Capotes made from this fabric throughout the 19th century. Lumbermen of the late 19th and early 20th century prized the brightly colored coats as being the best on the market for warmth and durability. This one bears an early style label, before the “Reg. No.” was added to the bottom in 1926.

Chest (pit to pit): 27″ (doubled = 54″)
Shoulder to Shoulder: 23″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 23-1/2″
Length (to bottom of knit): 27-1/2″

 

 photo IMG_7484.jpg

 photo IMG_7485.jpg

 photo IMG_7486.jpg

 photo IMG_7488.jpg

 photo IMG_7489.jpg

 photo IMG_7490.jpg

 photo IMG_7491.jpg

 photo IMG_7493.jpg

 photo 192401.jpeg

 photo 192503Stitch.jpg

 photo 192701.jpeg

These ads are from the 1930s, but give an idea of the pricepoint comparisons. In this period, they were frequently advertised alongside horsehide and mouton ” Grizzly ” jackets, and other such expensive and rugged garments.  photo 193606Stitch-Copy.jpg

 photo 193611-Copy.jpeg

 photo 193612-Copy.jpeg

Pre-War R. Plankl loden mackinaw

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281196380619
This vintage coat was made in Austria before WWII by R. Plankl of Vienna. R. Plankl was founded in 1830, and is one of the oldest and most respected makers and dealers of loden wool goods in the world. While examples of their work from the 1960s and 1970s come on the market fairly regularly, it’s exceedingly rare to see anything from the 1920s or 1930s period.
This coat is made of high quality loden wool, with a nice nap to it. The front follows the basic layout of what in America was called the mackinaw coat. Double breasted, flapped pockets with slash handwarmers above. The sleeves have stylishly angled buttoned adjuster belts. The back of the coat is belted, with a deep pleat starting at the shoulders and continuing to the hem, for additional freedom of motion while wearing the coat. The coat is unlined in most of the body, with a double layer in the front and in the shoulders. There are two buttoned interior pockets. The label is of a style commonly seen in the 1920s and 1930s, with a black background and yellow text. The tag reads ” Wien / R. Plankl / I. Michaelerplatz 6″, and has a logo of a rucksack with crossed ice axes.

Chest (pit to pit): 26″ (doubled = 52″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 21″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 26″
Length: 33″

 photo IMG_7474.jpg photo IMG_7475.jpg

 photo IMG_7476.jpg

 photo IMG_7477.jpg

 photo IMG_7479.jpg

Score Sportswear blue leather cafe racer

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271307306053
This vintage leather jacket was made in Toronto by either Score Sporting Goods of by its successor, Shields Sportswear. Without the label, it’s hard to say which incarnation of Harry and Lorne Shields’s company made it. The jacket has the interesting collar of this maker- a short rounded stand collar with a single-snap chinstrap. Most makers made the snap tab as an extension of the collar stand, rather than a second piece. The separate chinstrap is more of a holdover from 1930s leather jacket design. Side adjuster belts are another early style holdover found on this design. The elbows are reinforced with a second layer of leather. There are zip sleeves to keep wind and dust out when riding. Zippers are mismatched, with Canadian made Acme and Lightning zips on the pockets and sleeves respectively. The front zipper is a replacement, with a YKK tape and a vintage Talon slider. The lining is long since missing. The blue leather of this jacket sets it apart in a sea of black and brown leather jackets, as if the distinctive and rugged design wasn’t enough.

Chest (pit to pit): 22″ (doubled = 44″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 18″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24″
Length: 23-1/2″

 photo IMG_0163.jpg

 photo IMG_0164.jpg

 photo IMG_0177.jpg

 photo IMG_0166.jpg

 photo IMG_0170.jpg

 photo IMG_0172.jpg

 photo IMG_0174.jpg

 photo IMG_0175.jpg

 photo IMG_0179.jpg

 photo IMG_0180.jpg