1950s Luca’s Custom Boater hat

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271504624215
This vintage boater was made in the 1950s. The body of the hat was likely made in Italy, and then finished by Luca’s Custom Made Hats, 509 John Street, Utica, NY. The hat has a traditional striped ribbon, a mesh liner, and a floating leather sweatband to help the stiff hat conform better to your head shape.

Size: 7-1/4
Brim Width: 1-3/4″
Crown Height: 3-3/8″

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H Bar C western suit

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271503632079
This vintage suit was made in the 1950s by H Bar C ranchwear. It is made of gray corded wool, with typical flashy western detailing: peak lapels, a three button front with leather buttons, a square cutaway, flapped patch pockets, scalloped pocket flaps, and bi-swing shoulders. The jacket’s cut is pure late ’40s early ’50s Bold Look, with exaggerated wide, padded shoulders and a nipped in waist. The pants have western pockets, fancy belt loops, a Conmar zipper, and pearl snapped back scalloped pockets.

Jacket
Chest (pit to pit): 22-1/2″ (doubled = 45″)
Waist: 20″ (doubled = 40″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 20″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 26″
Length (base of collar to hem): 31″

Pants
Waist: 17″ (doubled = 34″)
Outseam: 43″
Inseam: 31-1/2″ (about 2-1/2″ to be let out)
Rise: 12-1/2″
Thigh: 13-1/2″ (doubled = 37″)
Knee: 12″ (doubled = 24″)
Cuff: 10″ (doubled = 20″)

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Vintage 1950s Buco J-82 D-pocket leather jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281345326835
This vintage leather jacket was made by the Joseph Buegeleisen Company of Detroit Michigan, in the mid-late 1950s. The J-82 model was introduced by Buco c. 1955, and going by the style of Talon zippers on this example, it dates from this 1950s time frame. Although this jacket was cut down into a vest by its original biker owner, the detailing of the J-82 model is highly distinctive and makes it immediately recognizable. The jacket is made of heavy steerhide leather, with a D-pocket (also known as a pistol pocket or a map pocket). Whereas many other D-pocket models had a patch cigarette pocket overtop the map pocket, the J-82 had a cleaner design, leaving that pocket uncluttered. There is a zipper breast pocket, somewhat of a holdover from aviator jacket styles of the 1940s, and a zippered slash handwarmer style pocket. The jacket has an attached belt, with a blacked out metal buckle and a metal tipped belt end to make threading it through easier. The belt loops and all pockets are reinforced and embellished with nickel plated rectangular high-dome studwork. The lapels snap down and there are additional snaps that a mouton collar could have originally been attached to. The jacket has a bi-swing back. The main zipper is a no.5 Talon of 1950s design, and all pocket zippers are bell-shaped Talons.
Wear this jacket over a denim jacket or like Lee Marvin in The Wild One over a striped shirt.

Chest (pit to pit): 19″
Length (base of collar to hem): 23″
Waist: 17″

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Original Perry A-2 horsehide flight jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271501781667
This vintage leather flight jacket was made by the Perry Sportswear company of Newburgh, New York. It is made of horsehide leather. The jacket has a pinlock Conmar zipper, United Carr ball-style snaps and grommets under the arms. The pockets have square reinforcement stitching, rounded corners, and shallowly scalloped pocket flaps. The arm has some period artwork on it for the 5th Air Corps. Unlike most, which were painted, this one is branded onto the leather.

Chest (pit to pit): 41″
Shoulder to shoulder: 17-1/2″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 20-1/2″ (missing knit cuffs, so will be longer once replaced)
Length (base of collar to end of waistband): 23-1/2″

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Lakeland Shawl Collar sweater

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281344004202
This vintage sweater was made in the 1970s by Lakeland. The design is heavily influenced by the shawl collar sweaters of the 1920s and 1930s. It has a broad shawl collar, a four button front and four leather pockets, the design and placement of which are reminiscent of shawl collared mackinaw coats of the same period. The sweater is fully lined and has an interior pocket, in keeping with the original intention of these as an article of outerwear rather than something to be layered, as was the case with v necked cardigans.

Tagged size: 40
Chest (pit to pit): 22″ (doubled = 44″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 18″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24″
Length (base of collar to hem): 27″

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Wabash Stripe Railroad chore jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271500215997

This jacket was made recently by 3 Days Union / WorkWare in the style of a 1920s-1930s wabash stripe railroad chore jacket. It has an angled watch pocket and corresponding slanted buttonhole for your watch chain (shirt, watch and chain not included in auction). The breast pocket has an interior pocket behind it. The WorkWare label plays off the typographic design used on old Montgomery Ward products. The jacket has “union made” text buttons and a repro of the now defunct United Garment Workers of America label. There is a double button system at the collar to allow for adjustment. With a chest measurement of 41″, this would best fit someone who wears a size 36 or 38 jacket.

Tagged size: large (Asian large, please refer to measurements)
Chest (pit to pit): 20-1/2″ (41″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 17″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24-1/2″
Length (base of collar to hem): 27″

 

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Monarch horsehide barnstormer leather jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271493775559
This vintage jacket was made by Monarch Mfg. of Milwaukee WI in the late 1930s or early 1940s. It is a belted, double breasted style. This has since come to be known among collectors as a barnstormer style, named after the aviators of the 1920s who wore similar styles. The jacket is made of russet horsehide, with a 3×6 double breasted front. There are handwarmer pockets (known originally as “muff” pockets), as well as flapped cargo pockets. These have deeply scalloped pocket flaps. The jacket is lined with blanket wool in the body, with quilted shoulders and sleeves. The U shaped seam between the two lining materials is a detail I have only seen on other Monarch jackets. The label is of a style used in the 1930s through about the end of WWII. The leather has some really incredible grain, highlighted by decades of usage. The treatment of the seams is unusual. Whereas most jackets, leather or otherwise, will have a seam at the edge of the jacket, or on the edge of the lapels, this one minimizes them by folding the leather around to form the front and back panel.

The Monarch Manufacturing Company was founded in 1892 by Paul Asch. In 1917, they relocated to a new factory, located at 246 East Chicago St., Milwaukee, WI. They built at least four more factories in Milwaukee, employing over a thousand workers by 1922. Throughout the life of the company, they specialized in leather, sheepskin and fabric outerwear for men and boys. They produced A-2 contracts during WWII.

Chest (pit to pit): 23″
Shoulder to shoulder: 18″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 26-1/2″
Length (collar seam to hem): 30″

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1930s Red Head Brand half-moon hunting vest

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271492450158
This vest was made in the 1930s by Red Head Brand, a high end maker of hunting and outdoorsman’s garments. This style has come to be known as a half-moon hunting vest, after the shape of its pass through pockets into the game pouch. Period advertisements generally referred to this style as a sleeveless jacket rather than as a vest. This one has pleated, flapped patch pockets on the front, as well as two patch pockets on the lining. There is a roomy breast pocket, just the right size for a pack of cigarettes, The half-moons pass through to the roomy internal game pocket, which closes with a button.

The vest still has the original Red Head tag, shaped, appropriately, like a duck. The tag reads – “Red Head Fits The Sport. The Red Head duck signifies that this article is backed by years of experience in the equipping of sportsmen. It is your guarantee that nothing has been spared to assure you of satisfaction in the field – that the Red Head standard of quality, workmanship, and above all, the integrity of the Red Head Brand, known by sportsmen for over forty years, is the inimitable ingredient of the product. Play safe and look for this symbol when purchasing outdoor equipment – Red Head Brand Co. – Chicago”

Chest (pit to pit): 22″ (doubled = 44″)
Length: 27″

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1910s “The Gem” Special hunting vest

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281337853385
This vintage hunting vest was made by the Gem Shirt Company of Dayton, Ohio in the 1910s. The Gem Shirt Co. was founded c.1888, and diversified into canvas hunting clothes in the early part of the 20th century, innovating the usage of lined waterproof game bags. They were a high end maker at the time, making their products from an excellent grade of cotton canvas duck. They ceased production by the 1920s.
The vest has 37 closed bottomed reinforced corduroy shotgun shell pockets on the front of the vest. The corduroy material is somewhat unusual, a nice early detail. The back is belted, but instead of the usual vest style central belt and buckle arrangement, this one has double side adjuster belts. It has Southwick buckles, a type patented in 1906, also used on some DuxBak vests of the period. It has an early black and yellow label, which identifies this model as the “Special”, made for “Outers and Hunters”. The grouse on the label is carried through onto the figural buttons. They are removable ring-back, of the type common on workwear of the period.

Chest (pit to pit): 22″ (doubled = 44″)
Length (front): 24″
Length (rear): 19″

For another vest made by “The Gem”, see here. A comparison of the two is below.

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Patent no 819,180, as found on the back of the buckle.  Patented May 1, 1906
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The logo for “The Gem” was trademarked in 1911, although it had been in use since 1888. The label on this vest reads “Registered”, dating it after 1911.
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Ad for “The Gem” from 1912

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The Gem Hunting Coat, 1917

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1918. Guiterman Bros Town and Country vest, Gem Hunting Coat and a Springfield Rifle

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1923. Gem Hunting Vests and coats.  This is the last I can find on the company.

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