This vintage jacket was made by Monarch Mfg. of Milwaukee WI in the late 1930s or early 1940s. It is a belted, double breasted style. This has since come to be known among collectors as a barnstormer style, named after the aviators of the 1920s who wore similar styles. The jacket is made of russet horsehide, with a 3×6 double breasted front. There are handwarmer pockets (known originally as “muff” pockets), as well as flapped cargo pockets. These have deeply scalloped pocket flaps. The jacket is lined with blanket wool in the body, with quilted shoulders and sleeves. The U shaped seam between the two lining materials is a detail I have only seen on other Monarch jackets. The label is of a style used in the 1930s through about the end of WWII. The leather has some really incredible grain, highlighted by decades of usage. The treatment of the seams is unusual. Whereas most jackets, leather or otherwise, will have a seam at the edge of the jacket, or on the edge of the lapels, this one minimizes them by folding the leather around to form the front and back panel.
A bit about Monarch, from a piece I wrote for “The Art of Vintage Leather Jackets”:
The Monarch Manufacturing Company was founded in 1892 by Paul Asch. In 1917, they relocated to a new factory, located at 246 East Chicago St., Milwaukee, WI. They built at least four more factories in Milwaukee, employing over a thousand workers by 1922. Throughout the life of the company, they specialized in leather, sheepskin and fabric outerwear for men and boys. They produced A-2 contracts during WWII.
Chest (pit to pit): 23″
Shoulder to shoulder: 18″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 26-1/2″
Length (collar seam to hem): 30″
http://www.ebay.com/itm/271144854806This jacket is a recent reproduction of a WWII USAAF leather jacket. It is made of horsehide leather, with knit cuffs and a cotton liner. The tag is for a Rough Wear contract, and puts the size as a 44, though it fits smaller. The leather appears to be spray dyed, with some scuffs to the finish to the edges; see the photo of the epaulette. Chest (pit to pit): 22″
Shoulder to Shoulder: 18″
Sleeve (shoulder to end of cuff): 25-1/2″
This vintage leather jacket was made by the Monarch company, a legendary leather jacket company of the golden era, who held an A-2 contract during the war. This is an aviator / motorcycle style, with an asymmetrical front zip , two flapped pockets, and two map pockets. It has epaulettes, belted sleeve cuffs, and a bi-swing half-belted back. The main zip is a triple marked sunburst Talon. The tab on the male side (the side without the puller) is missing. It’s still zip-able, but it takes a little bit to get the teeth to mesh initially. The chain zippers on the two map pockets are also talons. There are two ventilation grommets under each arm. The jacket is made of colt leather, a type of horsehide. There is damage to the cuffs, and cracking to the collar. The left shoulder has some flaking and the lining has wear and some moth damage. This jacket has been worn and has acquired a fantastic patina over the years.