Late 1940s half-belt leather jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281379413806
This vintage leather jacket was made in the late 1940s- early 1950s. It is a surcoat length half-belt design with flapped cargo/side entry handwarmer pockets. The sleeves have scaloped cuffs with fancy buttons. The zippers are all Talon. The lining is shredded.

Chest (pit to pit): 22″ (doubled = 44″)
shoulder to shoulder: 19″
sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 25″
Length (base of collar to hem): 28″

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1950s fringed deerskin jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281379421207
This vintage leather jacket was made in the 1950s, likely by one of the many Wisconsin deerskin leather tanneries / jacket makers. It is made of russet colored deerskin, in a western utility jacket cut with fringed front and rear yokes. It has elasticized sides, a ’50s update from the older side buckle adjusters. It has button cuffs and handwarmer pockets. The jacket does up with a Conmar zipper of the design used in the 1950s.

Chest (pit to pit): 23″ (doubled = 46″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 19-1/2″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 27″
Length (base of collar to hem): 27″

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Black Bear Brand cruiser jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281379428091
This vintage cruiser jacket was made in the 1930s by Black Bear Brand, a high-end outdoor outfitter and workwear manufacturer from Seattle, Washington. The jacket has a four pocket front, an internal game pocket with rear access and an inside pocket. In the pocket is a faded United Garment Workers of America union label.

Chest (pit to pit): 22″
Shoulder to shoulder: 18″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 23-1/2″
Length (base of collar to hem): 28″

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Korean War Pritzker G-1 flight jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271516989424
This vintage, Korean War issue G-1 USN leather flight jacket was made in Boston in the 1950s by the A Pritzker company. It is made of goatskin, with a belted back, bi-swing shoulders, underarm gussets and a mouton collar. The zipper is a Conmar, though the slider has been replaced with a newer Talon. There are stitch marks from the original owner’s nametag and a large patch on the chest. The original owner also added a map of Japan lining panel, having the original Pritzker tag re-sewn on the new panel.
Pit to pit: 22-1/2″ (doubled = 45″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 19″
Sleeve: 25″
Length: 25″

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1970s Trumpeter D-Pocket leather jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281350988381
This vintage leather jacket was made in Spain in the 1970s and was sold under the Trumpeter label. It has a broad coat style collar, front and back yokes, side button waist adjuster tabs, patch pockets and a zipped D-pocket. The yokes give the jacket a bit of western flair, while the style of D-pocket and the pointed patch pockets are a stylistic quote from Cossack and Aviator jackets of the mid 1930s.
The jacket is tagged a size 42, but with a 42″ chest, would best fit a size 40.

Chest (pit to pit): 21″ (doubled = 42″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 18″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24″
Length (base of collar to hem): 24″

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1930s Californian grommet zipper leather vest

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281350515618
This vintage leather vest was made by the California Sportswear Company of Los Angeles under their Californian label in the mid to late 1930s. It has an early Talon Hookless style grommet zipper and a chain and ring style Talon zip on the breast pocket, with the early style slider with the Talon script. These date it from around 1935-1938. It bears the famous Californian rising sun label, and has side adjuster belts, like those found on Californian’s half-belt leather jackets of the same period.

Chest (pit to pit): 20″ (doubled = 40″)
Length: 17-3/4″

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1950s Abercrombie & Fitch leather utility jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271509482877
This vintage leather jacket was made in the late ’40s-early 1950s and was sold by Abercrombie & Fitch, back in the days when it was an outfitter of the highest caliber. The jacket appears to have begun life all those years ago as russet brown, but has been worn and aged to the wonderful color it is now. The jacket is a cossack style, about as minimalist as they come. It has handwarmer pockets, a one piece back and side adjuster belts. The cuffs have buttoned adjusters. The zip front does up with a Talon zipper, of the type which began production in the late ’40s and were the norm throughout the 1950s.

Chest (pit to pit): 23″ (doubled = 46″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 20″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24-1/2″
Length (base of collar to hem): 25-1/2″

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1940s Front Quarter horsehide jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281349331760
This vintage leather jacket was made in the 1940s. The style, with knit waistband and cuffs, and slash handwarmer pockets was popular after the war. It is made of full grain front quarter horsehide, with a mouton collar. The jacket is lined in alpaca and corduroy, with quilted sleeve linings. The zipper is a later replacement from a no-name maker, with non-matching stitching. The cuffs and knit waistband also appear to be replacements. The jacket has a one piece back with a straight shoulder yoke. The horsehide has wonderful grain accented by decades of use. I have seen this particular design of yellow and black horsehide label, and this style of lining on earlier button front barnstormer models, but not on a post-war bomber jacket style like this. The leather has wear and loss of finish, but is still solid and supple.

Chest (pit to pit): 24″ (doubled = 48″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 19″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24-1/2″
Length (base of collar to end of cuff): 23″

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c.1940 Woolrich railroad vest

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281349001502

This vintage vest was made in Woolrich, Pennsylvania by the Woolrich Woolen Mills. Woolrich changed their label design frequently, which makes them easy to date if you know what you’re looking for. This variant on the label was used from about 1940-1945. The design of the United Carr snaps are also a giveaway for this vest’s date of manufacture. In the 1930s, Woolrich used snaps with one of two variations on a greek key pattern. During WWII, they switched to a plain topped design, featured on this vest. Starting in the late 1940s, Woolrich switched to snaps bearing the Woolrich name, before switching back to a different variation on the plain topped snaps in the 1960s. The design of the back of the snap further confirms this dating.

The vest is made of Woolrich’s signature mackinaw wool. The vest has a snap front, and bound seams. Although some examples you see are the sleeved variation with the sleeves removed, the construction on those is different. The vest has a belt adjuster back and asymmetric top and bottom patch pockets. Comparisons to Brown’s Beach Jacket vests of the same period are inevitable. This vest has a single large interior pocket.

Woolrich still makes a version of this model, however, the snaps have given way to a zipper, the cut has been lengthened, the armholes lowered, the shape of the front and rear changed, the wool fabric is now a blend, the pockets are a different shape, the construction is different and the taped seams altered. There is really no comparison the the original.

Chest (pit to pit): 20″ (doubled = 40″
Length (back) 20-1/2″
Length (front): 23-1/2″

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1940s Hart Schaffner & Marx single breasted overcoat

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281347291603
This vintage overcoat was made in the 1940s by Hart Schaffner & Marx and was sold by Moore, which had locations in San Francisco and Oakland, California. It is made of lightweight light-brown salt and pepper wool. It has a single breasted cut with a fly front, wide peak lapels, and button adjustment belts on the cuffs.

Chest (pit to pit): 22-1/2″
Shoulder to shoulder: 17″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 25″
Length: 42″

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