1950s Buco J-24 horsehide leather motorcycle jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271935645735
This vintage jacket was made in the early 1950s in Detroit, Michigan by the Joseph Buegeleisen Company (Buco) out of horsehide. It is their J-24 D-Pocket model motorcycle jacket. From the style of stop box on the main zipper, with its wide ribs, but without the Talon name, this one was made between about 1952 and 1957. The jacket has a D-pocket map pocket with a rounded cornered cigarette pocket. It has zipped sleeves, snapped lapels, snapped belt loops for an external belt, bars on the epaulettes, zippered side storage, a handwarmer pocket, and bi-swing shoulders. At some point, it appears the original owner either broke the main zipper or gained weight, and added snaps, which are offset from the original zip position.

Chest (pit to pit): 21″ (doubled = 42″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 18″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 25″
Length (base of collar to hem): 23-1/2″

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1940s Grais Sportswear leather half-belt jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/400938380661
This vintage leather jacket was made by by Grais – Sportswear with Grace in the 1940s. It has a half-belt, pleated back, a surcoat length cut, a tunneled, elasiticized belt with a single button closure, a blacked out Talon of mid-late 1940s manufacture, and ring pull chain zippers on the dual breast pockets. The cargo pockets are flapped and there are buttons on the cuffs.

Chest (pit to pit): 20″ (doubled = 40″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 17″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24-3/4″
Length (base of collar to hem): 27-1/2″

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Swedish Army tanker / motorcycle jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271761628954
This vintage jacket was made for the Swedish army. It is an asymmetrical pattern, with a large fold-over map pocket on the center of the chest. It has a cafe-racer style band collar with an adjustable strap to cinch it down. The jacket has a waist belt, adjustable cuffs and reinforcement at the elbows. It is made of very heavy green canvas, with a removable green pile lining for warmth. This is tagged a european size 52, which works out to a US 42. The pattern for these jackets is extremely oversized, as this, along with the matching overalls that would have originally been issued with it, were meant as an top layer with other winter gear underneath.

Tagged size: 52 (equivalent to a US 42)
Chest (pit to pit): 31″ (doubled = 62″)
Waist: 24″ (doubled = 48″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 23″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 27″
Length (base of collar to hem): 26″

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1960s Brent half-belt leather jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281560918807
This vintage leather jacket was made in the 1960s for Montgomery Ward under their Brent label. It is a classic half-belt cossack leather jacket style, popular from the 1930s-1960s. While it is not labeled, with its heavier weight, this feels like a steerhide rather than horsehide. This one has a larger Talon zipper than earlier models, as well as a quilted nylon lining. These are rare to find in larger sizes like this, and even rarer to find in such good condition.

Tagged size: 44
Chest (pit to pit): 26″ (doubled = 52″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 21″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24-3/4″
Length (base of collar to hem): 25″

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1930s leather police motorcycle jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271715598736
This vintage leather jacket was made in the late 1930 for a police motorcycle force. It is made of heavy black leather in an early motorcycle style. The jacket has a double-breasted, zip front cut, with snap belt buckles for a heavy garrison belt. It has lace-up sides, button cuffs with internal knit cuffs and zippered handwarmer/cargo pockets. The jacket is lined with wool and has an inside zip pocket. The main zipper is a later replacement, probably from the 1960s or 1970s. It appears that at that time a nylon liner was added overtop the original 1930s wool lining, but all that remains are a few shreds by the shoulder. The jacket has been heavily worn, implying a life after its original police usage. There are snaps for a mouton collar, as well as snaps on the belt loops. Some of these are 1920s United States Fastener snaps, others are United Carr made in the 1930s after United States Fastener and Carr merged. There are even RF Co snaps thrown into the mix. The pockets have late 1930s bell-shaped Talon zippers, while the interior pocket has an extremely rare version of the chain zipper with a Talon marked ring.

Chest (pit to pit): 22″ (doubled = 44″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 17″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24″
Length (base of collar to hem): 22-1/4″

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1940s half-belt leather jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281472895438
This vintage leather jacket was made in the mid to late 1940s. It is made of goatskin, with a pointy collar, buttoned yokes which form the pockets on the front and a scalloped yoke on the back. It has a half-belt back and an action back. The jacket has patch pockets with scalloped pocket flaps, and belted adjuster cuffs. It is fully lined. The jacket has a Talon zipper with a rectangular hole pull and a Talon marked stopbox. The jacket has distinctive leather buttons and is made of goatskin leather. It bears an Amalgamated Garment Workers union label. The jacket is marked on the leather E5 and the size 36.

Chest (pit to pit): 20-1/2″ (doubled = 41″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 19″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 23″
Length (base of collar to hem): 28-1/2″

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Canadian D-Pocket Motorcycle Jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271351711041
This vintage leather jacket was made in Canada. It’s hard to say whether this was made by Brimaco or by Shields/Score Sportswear, as their patterns were so similar, and this one is missing the labels. Both manufacturers jackets were made as copies of the 1940s “Cycle Champ” jacket sold by Harley Davidson. While Harley retired the model, going with more of a Perfecto style, these Canadian manufacturers continued production with very little changes. It has a large patch D-pocket, with a smaller patch cigarette pocket. The other side of the jacket has a flapped square patch pocket. The ends of the pocket openings are all reinforced with domed bar studwork for that early motorcycle jacket flash. The back design, with kidney panel is more typical for the Score/Shields jackets, while Brimaco/British Cycle Leathers/British Sportswear jackets generally had three panels in a V shape. But you do see both designs coming from both makers, so it’s doesn’t clear it up that much. This has the smooth nylon lining more commonly seen on the cafe racers made by these companies, while the more old-fashioned plaid linings were generally put into the D-Pocket models. The main zip is a Lightning, the pocket zip is a Canadian Talon of the same design (same company).

Chest (pit to pit): 23″ (doubled = 46″)
Waist: 29″ (doubled = 36″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 19″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 26″
Length: 22″

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For reference, also see:

Silver D-Pocket Motorcycle Jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281095874481

This is a truly rare and unusual early D-Pocket motorcycle jacket. It is a Harley Davidson Cycle Champ style. The label is missing, but going by the Canadian made “Lightning” zips, it would appear this is an extremely early version of the pattern produced by the British Mfg. Co. It has early bell-shaped lightning zips, for the main and the sleeve zippers, with a Lightning chain zip on the D-pocket. The sleeves zip open, whereas on later Canadian-made versions of this jacket, they had gussets. There is a little snap belt at the end of the sleeve to further secure the cuff when zipped up, though one is missing. Studs on the pocket corners and on the epaulettes (though 3 of the 4 from the lapels are missing). These studs are the early rounded variety, where as later versions had ones which were more squared off. The epaulettes are of the early stitched down variety, whereas later examples had ones with snaps.
The most unusual feature is definitely the color. You don’t see a lot of silver leather jackets, and yes, that is the original color, it is not some kind of later re-spray. This was definitely a signature piece for some biker, and he wore it long and hard.

Heavy smoke smell which I have been unable to remove. Overall wear to leather. Wear through leather at collar. Damage and stitch separation to left cuff. Missing snap belt closure on right cuff. Missing one belt loop. Heavy damage to front belt leather. Separation to stitching on cigarette pocket. Wear to lining, worn through near cuffs.

Chest (pit to pit): 22″
Shoulder to Shoulder: 19″
Shoulder to cuff: 24″
Length (bottom of collar to hem): 22-1/2″
Waist: 18″

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Star Sportswear Kurland Gluv-Tanned leather jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271137541051

This vintage leather jacket was made by Star Sportswear, under the “Kurland” label.  It is made of “Gluv-Tanned” leather, which , going by period advertisements, was a tanning process Star used primarily on cowhide, which gave it a soft finish.  Star Sportswear is also known for its USN G-1 contract.  This jacket is a classic early motorcycle style, with a D-Pocket map pocket and a front belt.  It has an action back, and a brass Scovill zipper.

Chest: 20″
Shoulder to Shoulder: 17″
Shoulder to cuff:  24″

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Canadian Cycle Champ D-Pocket leather jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281050498657

Another one of the jackets seen HERE

This vintage leather jacket is a “Wind Cheater” made by the British Mfg. Co. of Montreal, Canada.  At other points in the company’s life, they were known as Brimaco and as British Cycle Leathers.  This jacket was made in the 1960s, and is a copy of the famous Harley Davidson Cycle Champ leather jacket’s design.  It has a large D-Pocket, with smaller cigarette pockets on either side of the jacket.  There are studs on the epaulettes and at points of stress on the pockets.  It has a front belt and zip cuffs.  The jacket has Canadian made “Acme” zippers.  It is fully lined in tartan wool.  Snaps are all “United Carr” brand. Chest: 23-1/2″Shoulder to Shoulder: 19″Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 23-1/2″    Photobucket

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