This vintage leather jacket was made in Sweden for their army. These were used by motorcycle despach riders and tank crews. They were made in leather and green canvas versions, this is the simplified of the leather version, with the snap closure at the waist and collar rather than the more complicated hook closure. Made from heavy black leather, it has epaulettes, an asymmetrical closure, band collar, handwarmer pockets, belted adjusters at the cuffs and a large map pocket in the center of the chest. The jacket is blanket lined, with an internal snapped wind flap. The original changeable ring-back buttons have been either switched out or modified to be wired onto backing plates. These coats were cut oversized, with broad shoulders and long sleeves. Someone has added shoulder pads inside, which square up the broad shoulders. They are easily removed.
This vintage jacket was made in the 1980s France by Alvin York, heavily influenced by the eccentric design of the 1940s Swedish leather tanker jacket. There’s something interesting about a jacket being made in France, reproducing the style of a Swedish jacket of the 1940s, while using the name of Sgt. York, a WWI American war hero on the label. The jacket is made of heavyweight two-tone suede. Like the original, it has a band collar, an internal row of fasteners with a wide wrap which fastens by the side seam, and that oh so distinctive large map pocket right in the center of the chest. This version adds handwarmer pockets and trades out some of the fiddly buttons and fasteners of the original for simpler, and more practical given the material, snaps. Just like the originals, this one sports a generously oversized cut. While it’s a 1940s design, the whole package still looks futuristic today.
Chest (pit to pit): 26″ (doubled = 52″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 19″
Waist (side to side): 19″ (doubled = 38″)
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 25-1/2″
Length (base of collar to hem): 24″
This vintage jacket was made for the Swedish army. It is an asymmetrical pattern, with a large fold-over map pocket on the center of the chest. It has a cafe-racer style band collar with an adjustable strap to cinch it down. The jacket has a waist belt, adjustable cuffs and reinforcement at the elbows. It is made of very heavy green canvas, with a removable green pile lining for warmth. This is tagged a european size 52, which works out to a US 42. The pattern for these jackets is extremely oversized, as this, along with the matching overalls that would have originally been issued with it, were meant as an top layer with other winter gear underneath.
Tagged size: 52 (equivalent to a US 42)
Chest (pit to pit): 31″ (doubled = 62″)
Waist: 24″ (doubled = 48″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 23″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 27″
Length (base of collar to hem): 26″