1930s capeskin suede Halfbelt leather jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271370357479
This vintage leather jacket was made in the late 1930s. It is a halfbelt style in a hip length. It has a belted back with pleated detailing. It has flapped hip pockets and zipper chest pockets. The main zipper is a sunburst Talon and the pocket zippers are also Talon.

Chest (pit to pit): 21″
Shoulder to shoulder: 17″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 21″
Length: 26″

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1950s Brent halfbelt leather jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281243867632

This vintage leather jacket was made in the 1950s by Brent, a house brand of Montgomery Ward. It is a heavy leather, probably steerhide, but possibly horsehide- without a label it’s hard to be positive. The jacket has a half-belt back and a slanted zipper closure breast pocket. Zippers are by Conmar. The jacket has a quilted lining and storm cuffs.

Chest (pit to pit): 23″
Shoulder to shoulder: 18″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 25″
Length: 30″

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1920s Bedford Cord breeches

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281231706265
These vintage breeches were made in the 1920s. They are made out of a gray Bedford cord. At some point around 1930, the original owner upgraded them, reinforcing the pocket edges with heavy brown leather, probably elk or deer. He also removed the original belt loops, replacing them with black leather, and extended the legs 2-1/2″ with black leather. The extensions do up with flower patterned snaps, which help date the work. They are a transitional style, with male ends marked “USF Co”, and female ends marked “United Carr”. “USF” stands for “United States Fastener”. They merged with Carr Fastener in 1929 to form “United Carr”, but for a short time during the transition, they used the old USF toolings.
The breeches have a watch pocket, one flapped back pocket and one open. The legs button closed, and the pants have a button fly.

Waist (side to side): 18″ (doubled = 36″)
Inseam: 26″
Outseam: 38″

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Canadian D-Pocket Motorcycle Jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271351711041
This vintage leather jacket was made in Canada. It’s hard to say whether this was made by Brimaco or by Shields/Score Sportswear, as their patterns were so similar, and this one is missing the labels. Both manufacturers jackets were made as copies of the 1940s “Cycle Champ” jacket sold by Harley Davidson. While Harley retired the model, going with more of a Perfecto style, these Canadian manufacturers continued production with very little changes. It has a large patch D-pocket, with a smaller patch cigarette pocket. The other side of the jacket has a flapped square patch pocket. The ends of the pocket openings are all reinforced with domed bar studwork for that early motorcycle jacket flash. The back design, with kidney panel is more typical for the Score/Shields jackets, while Brimaco/British Cycle Leathers/British Sportswear jackets generally had three panels in a V shape. But you do see both designs coming from both makers, so it’s doesn’t clear it up that much. This has the smooth nylon lining more commonly seen on the cafe racers made by these companies, while the more old-fashioned plaid linings were generally put into the D-Pocket models. The main zip is a Lightning, the pocket zip is a Canadian Talon of the same design (same company).

Chest (pit to pit): 23″ (doubled = 46″)
Waist: 29″ (doubled = 36″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 19″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 26″
Length: 22″

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For reference, also see:

Battered A-2

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281204190634
This vintage A-2 leather flight jacket was made during the 1940s. It has a spring-loaded zipper introduced in 1943 by Crown. This type, with “two-way” teeth, was designed exclusively for the military with larger versions finding their way onto the turrets of bombers to keep the wind out. Featuring this late-war military zipper, the jacket may have been private purchase. Snaps are of a ball style, and were made by Rau of Providence, Rhode Island, and have exposed backs. Pockets have nicely scalloped flaps, with the size tag stitched on the inside. The collar is long and pointed, and is attached directly to the body of the jacket The leather jacket hanger is off-center, stitched with “X” style stitching. The jacket has a khaki liner, which is in very good shape. Unfortunately, the original tag is long since missing.

Chest (pit to pit): 21″
Shoulder to shoulder: 17″
Sleeve (shoulder to end of knit cuff): 24-1/2″
Length (base of collar to end of knit cuff): 23″

Also see: https://vintagehaberdashers.com/2013/03/08/original-a2-leather-jacket/

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Guiterman Bros 1930s Town and Country leather jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271307079241
This vintage leather jacket was made in the early to mid 1930s by Guiterman Brothers, under the Town and Country label. The company was founded in 1883, and began the “Town and Country” line in 1904. They produced flying coats for US aviators during World War One, and pioneered early civilian leather jacket designs starting in the 1910s. In c. 1928, the company was bought out by Gordon and Ferguson, who continued the line. This jacket as a rare early example of a button-front Cossack jacket. Early Cossack jackets, c. 1930-c.1934 generally featured leather waistband and plain backs. This is an early example of the transitional style, retaining the collar, cuff and pocket detailing from the early jackets, but moving away into what would become the half-belt jackets of the later 1930s-1950s. The back is belted, with bi-swing shoulders and side adjusters. The front still has an old style button front, instead of a hookless zipper. The jacket buttons right over left, which, along with the shoulder darts, identify this as a women’s jacket. Other than these details, early on, men’s and women’s styles were generally extremely similar patterns. As was typical of many of these early jackets, this one is made with the suede side out. For jackets of this style, it wasn’t until later in the 1930s that weight started to become a major concern. These were really designed as lightweight leather windbreakers for sporting activities. Gordon and Ferguson had the exclusive rights to the Cravenette process for leather, and it is employed on this one.

Chest (pit to pit): 20″
Shoulder to shoulder: 16-1/2″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24″
Length: 23″

 

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Ad from 1934.
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Ad from 1935
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Gibson and Barnes A-2

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281195687466
This is an older Gibson & Barnes reproduction of a WWII Army Air Corps A-2 flight jacket. It is made of heavy russet brown leather, with dark brown knits. The pockets are authentic patch style, not the hand-warmer style they are currently using. The jacket has a one piece back. The jacket has a Scovill Gripper Zipper and Scovill snaps. The tag is long since missing, but the cut, detailing, hardware, and liner color and material identify it as an older G&B.

Chest (pit to pit): 23″ (doubled = 46″)
Shoulder to Shoulder: 19″
Sleeve (shoulder to end of knit cuff): 25″
Length (to end of knit waistband): 24″

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Alpaca lined shawl collar mackinaw

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281195223460

This vintage coat was made in the 1930s. While I have seen several of this particular model, none have had any tags. Originally, these coats were known as “sheeplined” coats, and were popular with railroad men, ranchers and other men who worked outdoors, as they were light for their warmth when compared to wool coats, and were particularly hard wearing. This one defies that name slightly by having an alpaca pile lining and collar. As is typical of the style, instead of buttonholes, this coat has loops, in this instance made from leather. Likewise, the pockets are reinforced with leather. There is a waterproof layer in between the outer canvas layer and the inner warm lining. In lieu of a tag, there is a military style size stamp at the bottom of the coat.

Chest (pit to pit): 34″
Shoulder to shoulder: 19″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 26-1/2″
Length: 33″

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East West Musical Instruments style leather jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271306455788
This vintage leather jacket was made in the late 1960s – 1970s time frame, and is one of the coolest from that era I’ve seen in a long time. The western pictorial theme, with a desert landcape and a bird (or is that a “Gilded Palace of Sin” era Sneaky Pete pterodactyl?) put me in mind of Nudie’s rodeo tailors. The western yoking and brass studs on the front further that western theme. This style of jacket was pioneered by California’s “East West Musical Instruments” although this jacket isn’t nearly as complex as most of their output. There’s no, or evidence that there was one, so who actually made the jacket is a bit of a mystery. There is a standard style for the era “Medium” size tag. My guess would be it was made by a small custom leather shop. The jacket is leather, sewn rough-out. It has a snap front.

Chest (pit to pit): 21″ (doubled = 42″)
Waist: 18″ (doubled = 36″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 18-1/2″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24″
Length: 22″

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Mid-Western Sport Togs deerskin jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271306482905
This vintage jacket was made by Mid-Western Sport Togs, of Berlin, Wisconsin, probably in the early 1960s. It is a western style, with a fringed hem, sleeves and yoke. The jacket is made of deerskin. At some point, the original buttons were changed out for the current metal eagle buttons.

Chest (pit to pit): 22″
Shoulder to shoulder: 17″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 22″
Length (not including fringe): 25″

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