Campus Sportswear horsehide leather jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281154565976
This jacket was made in the late ’40s-mid 1950s timeframe by Campus Sportswear. It is made of horsehide in a classic half-belt utility jacket design that was popular from the 1930s-1950s. This one brings a bit of a ’50s twist to the design in the form of the swooping stitching/welt running up the front of the jacket. The jacket has slash handwarmer pockets, a zipped breast pocket, and adjuster belts on the sides. It has a brass Talon zipper of the design introduced in the late 1940s. The jacket has a quilted lining.

Chest (pit to pit): 22-1/2″
Shoulder to shoulder: 17-1/2″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 23-1/2″
Length: 25″

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Late 1930s belted leather jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281154502621
This vintage leather jacket was made in the late 1930s or early 1940s. Whereas many jackets of this era either had a button on belt, or a half-belt back, this one has a full attached belt. It has an action back It has two buttoned vertical pockets on the chest, and flapped buttoned pockets. The front is done up with a deco sunburst Talon zipper, which helps pin the date down. The jacket is fully lined. Though the tag is missing, the leather on this jacket feels like other horsehide jackets of this era I’ve had. The leather has developed a great patina over time, and the grain has really started to pop on the back panels.

Chest (pit to pit): 21″
Shoulder to shoulder: 17″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 25-1/2″
Length: 25-1/2″

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Extra Large Hudson’s Bay Blanket Coat

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271246957324
This vintage coat was made by the Hudson’s Bay company from their iconic point blanket material. It is in their “Olympic” pattern, a belted double breasted style, with handwarmer pockets and flapped patch pockets. In this particular example, the points of the four point blanket are on the inside of the coat on the wearer’s right shoulder. The coat is fully lined in gray. It is tagged a 46, but I would say it fits more like a size 50 or 52.

Chest (pit to pit): 29″ (doubled = 58″)
Shoulder to Shoulder: 21″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 27″
Length: 34″

A bit about the Hudson’s Bay Blanket Coat:
The Hudson’s Bay Company introduced their distinctive striped “point” trade blanket in 1780. The blankets were used in the fur trade, traded in exchange for pelts. The “points” represented the size and weight of the blanket. The blankets were soon being tailored into hooded, belted “Capotes”.
In 1811, 40 greatcoats were commissioned for soldiers stationed at Fort St. Joseph in Jocelyn, Ontario. They were made under the direction of John Askin, fur trader, and keeper of the King’s Store at that fort. Running short on proper supplies and in need of adequately warm coats for the men, Askin had the coats sewn from point blankets. The modern mackinaw was born.
The Hudson’s Bay blanket material was advertised for its, “warmth, durability, retention of color, non-shrinage”, for being “non-hardening when exposed to the elements”, and for their water resistant qualities. Combined with its heavy weight, and thick fluffy nap, the Hudson’s Bay Blanket made for ideal material in a harsh environment. They remained popular with fur traders through the 18th and 19th centuries. Along with their mackinaw-cloth relatives, they also proved popular with Lumbermen on both sides of the border.
Coats made from Hudson’s Bay point blanket material were truly investments, costing significantly more than identical coats in other fabrics. Some examples: In 1937, an Albert Richard coat in heavy mackinaw cloth cost $12.50. That same coat in the HBC fabric cost $22.50. In 1936, a different manufacturer was offering 32oz melton coats for $5.95. To upgrade to point blanket fabric doubled the price.
These coats were the ultimate in rugged, high-end outdoors garments. At the top of the price range for short coats, they were sold by such high-end outfitters as Abercrombie & Fitch and Von Lengerke & Detmold. By the 1930s, sportswear companies like Albert Richard and Maine Guide by Congress had joined the act. The Hudson’s Bay blanket coat enjoyed a surge of popularity on the United States market in the mid through late 1930s. Mirroring the Mackinaw craze of 1912-1915, the style was brought over the border to the US by tourists and seasonal workers who had seen the coats in use in Canada and been impressed with their warmth and durability. They briefly became a university fad in the 1930s, but really stuck with sportsmen who could afford the best.
Hudson’s Bay blankets were originally made in England. In the middle of the 20th century, they switched manufacture to Canada. Currently, they are again produced in England, by John Atkinson. Former competitor Woolrich Woolen mills has the contract to import Bay Blankets to the US, and other former competitor Pendleton now makes the blankets used in the coats sold by HBC.
As the 20th century wore on, the Hudson’s Bay point blanket coat remained a Canadian icon. It was the Canadian team uniform at the 1964 Innsbruck Olympics.

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Allied Clothiers mustard colored jacket

Also see: https://vintagehaberdashers.com/2012/05/23/1950s-allied-clothiers-cotton-ricky-jacket/

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281142179139
This vintage sportswear jacket was made in the early to mid 1950s by Allied Clothiers. It is made of lightweight mustard colored cotton, with side adjuster belts, action pleated shoulders and handwarmer pockets. The front does up with a rare Talon zipper variant, in aluminum with a 1953 patented E-Z Zip-Tab.

Chest (pit to pit): 21″
Shoulder to shoulder: 17″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 22-1/2″
Length: 26″

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Pendleton Blanket Coat

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281141522504
This vintage coat was made by Pendleton Woolen Mills of Portland, Oregon. It is made from Pendleton Indian trade blankets. It is a single breasted style, with western yokes on the shoulders and back. There are slash handwarmer pockets at the chest, and flapped patch pockets below. The coat is unlined, save for the shoulders.

Chest (pit to pit): 23″
Shoulder to shoulder: 19″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24″
Length: 30″

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Reproduction Shawl Collar Mackinaw

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281141046168
This coat is a recent reproduction of a style of Mackinaw coat which was popular from the early 1910s through to the 1930s. This style of coat started out with lumberjacks in the pacific northwest at the turn of the century. It broke into mainstream fashion starting around 1912, and was quickly adopted by the collegiate crowd. Workmen and railroad men quickly saw the practicality of its collar and short length and adopted the style.

This reproduction is made of heavyweight black herringbone knit cotton, with a fleeced backing. Like many originals, it is unlined, but the fleeced interior of the fabric makes for a very comfortable jacket. It has a broad shawl collar, and four flapped patch pockets. It is single breasted. There are button adjusters at the wrists.

Chest (pit to pit): 21″
Shoulder to shoulder: 17″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24-1/2″
Length: 29″

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AT Hendrick 1940s buckskin half-belt leather jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271244469421
This vintage leather jacket was made in the 1940s by A.T. Hendrick. It is made of soft, high quality buckskin leather, in a button front waist-length half-belt style. The buttons are leather “football” knot style. It has fancy bellows patch pockets, and an action back. The chest pocket has a Talon chain zipper of the type used in the 1940s.

A bit about the maker: Allie T. Hendricks was born on January 27, 1896. He worked as a clothes cleaner through the 1920s and into the 1930s. In 1936, he opened his own tailor shop in the one bedroom house at 1796 Trenton St., Denver, CO which he shared with his wife, Marie. Early directory listings indicate he produced leather jackets exclusively. Later ones use the broader term “leather goods”. Like many small western leather shops, it seems he specialized in buckskin.
There is a bit of confusion over the name – his own labels read “AT Hendrick” (no S), but his directory listings and social security records spell it “Hendricks”. He died in early 1981, aged 84.

Chest: 21″ (doubled = 42″)
Shoulder to Shoulder: 17″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 25-1/2″
Length: 27″

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1939

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The home where Hendricks produced his leather jackets

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Double Breasted German leather motorcycle jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271244474811
This vintage leather jacket was made in Germany in the 1960s. It was made by Erlmeier Ledermodelle. It started out life as a hip length jacket and was at some point cut down into a waist length motorcycle style. The conversion was well executed. It is double breasted with a button front, and buttons for shoulder boards. There are double-snap breast pockets. The back has a scalloped yoke.

Chest (pit to pit): 22″ (doubled = 44″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 18″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 26″
Length: 23″

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Pal O’Mine hair on leather jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271235564659
This vintage leather jacket was made by the Fleecy Mfg. Co of Chicago, IL, under the Pal-O’Mine Sportswear label. It is a classic utility jacket style, with a twist. It has a shirt style collar, a brass Talon zipper, and slash handwarmer pockets. The shoulders are trimmed with hair-on cowhide for that western flair. It appears that the edges of the pockets and the shoulder yokes once had fringed trim, but that the original owner removed it.The size and styling make me think this was probably marketed at the young men’s demographic.

Chest: 19″
Sleeve: 22-1/2″
Shoulder to Shoulder: 15″
Length: 26″

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