c. 1947 Lakeland Jackinac

Posted on April 30, 2013 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281101033130

These Lakeland Wagonwheel Jackinac jackets were advertised heavily in 1947 and 1948, and appeared in Life Magazine. It is a twist on the classic red and black Hudson’s Bay point blanket style. It has a five button front, though the bottom button is missing. There is a zipped breast pocket, and shirt style cuffs. The jacket is unlined and has taped seams. There is a nice recurrence of the stripe pattern on the underside of the collar.

Chest (pit to pit): 23″
Shoulder to shoulder: 19″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 25″
Length (base of collar to hem): 28″

Blue European Workwear jacket

Posted on April 22, 2013 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281096463565

This German work jacket has some very interesting detailing. When you first put it on, you’ll notice the buttons. They’re on the left side of the jacket instead of the right. They button through one set of buttonholes on the right placket, then through a second set, on a fly on the right side, bringing them back to where they belong, and entirely sealing the front of the jacket up from gusts of wind and dust. The jacket is caped, with the cape forming the pocket flaps of the breast pocket. The lining of the cape is rubberized. Underneath, in the front and back, are a set of pass through slits, possibly for a harness of some kind. The collar has a button throat latch underneath. The cuffs are an unusual design, again allowing for a tight seal with no gaps. It has elbow reinforcements, an internal waist adjuster drawstring, and interior cargo pockets.

Chest (pit to pit): 21″
Shoulder to Shoulder: 17″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24″
Length: 27″

Silver D-Pocket Motorcycle Jacket

Posted on April 19, 2013 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281095874481

This is a truly rare and unusual early D-Pocket motorcycle jacket. It is a Harley Davidson Cycle Champ style. The label is missing, but going by the Canadian made “Lightning” zips, it would appear this is an extremely early version of the pattern produced by the British Mfg. Co. It has early bell-shaped lightning zips, for the main and the sleeve zippers, with a Lightning chain zip on the D-pocket. The sleeves zip open, whereas on later Canadian-made versions of this jacket, they had gussets. There is a little snap belt at the end of the sleeve to further secure the cuff when zipped up, though one is missing. Studs on the pocket corners and on the epaulettes (though 3 of the 4 from the lapels are missing). These studs are the early rounded variety, where as later versions had ones which were more squared off. The epaulettes are of the early stitched down variety, whereas later examples had ones with snaps.
The most unusual feature is definitely the color. You don’t see a lot of silver leather jackets, and yes, that is the original color, it is not some kind of later re-spray. This was definitely a signature piece for some biker, and he wore it long and hard.

Heavy smoke smell which I have been unable to remove. Overall wear to leather. Wear through leather at collar. Damage and stitch separation to left cuff. Missing snap belt closure on right cuff. Missing one belt loop. Heavy damage to front belt leather. Separation to stitching on cigarette pocket. Wear to lining, worn through near cuffs.

Chest (pit to pit): 22″
Shoulder to Shoulder: 19″
Shoulder to cuff: 24″
Length (bottom of collar to hem): 22-1/2″
Waist: 18″

NYPD Leather Jacket

Posted on April 19, 2013 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271192753634

This vintage leather jacket was originally used by the New York Police Department. It is a heavy leather, in a classic utility jacket. The previous owner de-policed the look by removing the false breast pocket flaps and buttons, as well as the patches. It has two-directional talon zippers. The epaulettes have brass buttons with the seal of New York. The design of the NY seal was changed in 1977 to bear the date 1625. This is the earlier variant, with the date 1664. The jacket has a removable pile lining, attached with a Talon zipper. There are two interior pockets, and a pen pocket. There are stitch marks where there was once a label. The jacket has been heavily worn.
Chest (pit to pit): 22″
Shoulder to Shoulder: 18″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24″
Length: 24″

From the last owner:

I found this jacket in a dumpster on broadway in soho (just north of prince street) in the early 80’s. it still had the police equestrian patches and “brass” on it. I thought it was a godsend, fit me perfectly. I wore this jacket for years. I wore it on a trip through japan and china in 1986. this jacket is VERY near and dear to me, hence why I’m trying to sell it despite it’s poor condition, I can’t BEAR to throw it away, it breaks my heart to part with it, I swear I’m teary eyed typing this. I tried to give it away to 4 of my successive girlfriends throughout the years but I either got it returned to me or they told me to “hold on it for them”. I’m hoping someone with a strong desire to own a nice (“cool”) leather jacket who wants to buy one cheap will come along who also has substantial sewing skills and wants to invest the time in making the sewing repairs necessary. oh, one tidbit, one side of the zipper was starting to come undone while I was in china and I met a street tailor in beijing who kindly sewed it back in place for me. I was absolutely OVERJOYED. me, I think this is a lovely jacket, it has a magnificent patina of age and wear, I think it’s PERFECTLY aged and patinaed. if it would fit me I’d continue to wear it!!

1950s Civilian bomber jacket

Posted on April 19, 2013 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271192744622

This vintage leather jacket was made in the 1950s, and is a civilian bomber jacket style. Some fairly recently, the zipper was replaced with a USA made YKK Vislon (nylon) zipper. It’s not original, but it works well. The jacket has a nice undercurve to the collar. It has stitched down epaulettes, handwarmer pockets and a one piece back. There are vented underarm gussets.

Chest (pit to pit): 23″
Shoulder to Shoulder: 20″
Sleeve (shoulder to end of knit): 24:
Length: 24″

British Cycle Leathers motorcycle Jacket

Posted on April 13, 2013 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271189228147

This vintage motorcycle jacket was made in Montreal, Canada by the British Mfg. Company under their “British Cycle Leathers” label. These are a copy of the Harley Davidson Cycle Champ design of the 1940s. It features a large D-pocket with cigarette pocket, a diagonal zipped front with snaps on the lapels, but not the collar, and studs on the pockets and epaulettes. The cuffs are zipped. All zippers are Canadian made Lightning brand, with oval pullers. Please note that all Canadian made zippers have the slider on the left track, in the European tradition. The liner is a plaid flannel, a real throwback to the 1940s roots of this design. The leather has some wonderful grain. While it has started to develop a nice patina, the usual spots (cuff, collar) are in great shape. There are several places where the stitching has let go, in particular the bottom of the zipper. These should all be easy fixes, though, as the leather and zipper tape are still in solid condition.

Tagged size: 38
Chest (pit to pit): 20″
Shoulder to Shoulder: 17″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24″
Waist: 17-1/2″
Length (collar seam to hem): 21-1/2″

For another in this model, made a little bit later, please see This Jacket

Buck Skein 2-tone ricky

Posted on April 13, 2013 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281092833474
This vintage two tone Ricky jacket was made by Buck Skein in the early-mid 1950s. Buck Skein advertised these styles heavily in spring-summer of 1954. This one is made of a lightweight, breathable fabric, probably a linen-rayon blend. It is unlined, and has a brass Talon zipper. With a 50″ chest measurement, this fits as a size 46.

Chest (pit to pit): 25″ (doubled =50″)
Shoulder to Shoulder: 20″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24″
Waist: 22″ (doubled = 44″)
Length (collar seam to hem): 23″

1950s Windward Steerhide jacket

Posted on April 5, 2013 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271183853958

This vintage leather jacket was made in the 1950s. It was sold by Montgomery Ward under their “Windward” line. Stylistically, it is about halfway in between an A-2 style flight jacket and a utility jacket. It has flapped pockets with side entry handwarmers, and epaulettes. It has a one piece back, with a leather hem and cuffs. The cuffs have decorative buttons at the ends. One is missing on the left sleeve. The jacket originally had a Conmar zipper. The puller is missing and the track is missing teeth, so it will definitely need to be replaced. There are elasticized side panels to provide a sung fit. The lining is qulited, and there are knit storm cuffs in the sleeves.

Chest (pit to pit): 21″
Shoulder to Shoulder: 17″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24″
Length (bottom of collar to hem): 23″

1930s Radium Silk spearpoint shirt

Posted on March 23, 2013 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281082411382
This vintage shirt was made in the 1930s and sold by Gronfein and Schwartz of Butte, Montana. It is made from Silk Radium, a fabric popular from about 1905-1935. It was a specially treated silk, developed to be extremely light weight, marketed as a summer shirt. It was an extremely expensive shirting material, selling for about four times what a comparable cotton shirt would. The shirt is cut long in the body, with gusseted side seams. It has small mother of pearl buttons, and a long 3-3/8″ spearpoint collar.

Chest (pit to pit): 26″
Shoulder to Shoulder: 20″
Shoulder to cuff: 26-1/2″
Collar: 16-3/4″

Walter Dyer motorcycle jacket

Posted on March 21, 2013 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271176491850

This vintage leather jacket was made by the Walter Dyer company of Massachusetts. It is made of a thick, heavyweight leather, probably steerhide, perfect for motorcycle usage. I’ve heard this style of theirs referred to as a “Luftwaffe jacket”, but really, it’s a standard Cafe Racer style with a collar. There are two handwarmer pockets and two zipped breast pockets. There is an action back, and zipped cuffs. All the zippers are brass and were made by Talon. The jacket has a quilted lining, which has what looks to be an ink stain on it. Great wear and patina to the leather. The “Walter Dyer” tag is of the early leather style. It would have originally had the name in script, written in gold, but has mostly worn off.

Chest (pit to pit): 24″
Shoulder to Shoulder: 18″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 23-1/2″

	Spencer Stewart on Belgian Leather Jerkin
	Richard on Belgian Leather Jerkin
	Spencer Stewart on 1920s Stetson Clear Nutria cow…
	DonJon on 1920s Stetson Clear Nutria cow…
	gregory w kurpita on Wabash Stripe Railroad chore…

Vintage-Haberdashers Blog

Quality vintage menswear

Tag Archives: clothing

c. 1947 Lakeland Jackinac

Blue European Workwear jacket

Silver D-Pocket Motorcycle Jacket

NYPD Leather Jacket

1950s Civilian bomber jacket

British Cycle Leathers motorcycle Jacket

Buck Skein 2-tone ricky

1950s Windward Steerhide jacket

1930s Radium Silk spearpoint shirt

Walter Dyer motorcycle jacket