1950s H Bar C western jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281501818727
This vintage jacket was made in the 1950s by noted western wear manufacturer, H Bar C ranchwear. It has razor sharp peak lapels, a squared off cutaway, patch pockets with scalloped, buttoned pocket flaps, a three button front, and a western scalloped yoke. It bears a 1949 amalgamated clothing workers of america label, with the pre (R) variant that dates it between 1949 and 1961. With the overall styling, I would place the dating at the tail end of the 1950s.

Chest (pit to pit): 21-1/2″ (doubled = 43″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 18-1/2″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 27″
Length (base of collar to hem): 32-1/2″

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1960s red Woolrich 511 Mackinaw coat

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271674539854
This vintage woolrich coat was made in the early 1960s in Woolrich, Pennsylvania. It is the 511 model, the red version of the 503, which was introduced around the turn of the century.. This version has the later symmetrical breast pockets, and Woolrich branded snaps.

Chest (pit to pit): 25″ (doubled = 50″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 19″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 23-1/2″
Length (Base of collar to hem): 31″

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1940s Taylor’s California Desert Suedes capeskin leather vest

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271662283492
This vintage vest was made in the mid-late 1940s by Taylors of California out of russet colored capeskin. Despite being made of smooth leather, it bears the “Desert Suedes” label. It is a high-cut zip front vest, with size vent zips on the hips. There are handwarmer pockets as well as semi-concealed chest pockets in the front yoke seam. The vest has a plaid lining and salt-and-pepper pocket linings. The zipper, with its square holed slider and Talon branded stopbox help date this jacket to the years immediately after WWII, somewhere in the 1945-1949 range.

Chest (pit to pit): 19″
Length: 23-3/4″

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1950s Atomic Fleck black and white jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281491511607
This vintage jacket was made in the 1950s and was sold by Monarch Clothes, Billings, Montana. It is a bold atomic fleck sportcoat, with a blue-black background and white flecks. It has patch pockets, flapped on the hips, a short vent, and pearloid buttons. It is half-lined, as was typical of jackets of this era, and bears a 1949 union tag.

Chest (pit to pit): 24″ (doubled = 48″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 20″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 27″
Length (base of collar to hem): 32-1/2″

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1950s Weyenberg Massagic shoes

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271654455717
These vintage shoes were made in the 1950s by Weyenburg under the Massagic Air Cushion Shoe label. They have the 1940s patent arch support design, a round perforated captoe, open lacing and six eyelets. They have flat cotton laces, leather soles and Massagic labeled heels.

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1940s Brazilian herringbone tweed jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281484768615
This vintage jacket was made in Brazil and sold in the late 1940s-1950s. It is made of a bold herringbone tweed material, with a brown mouton collar. It was sold by Alfred – Kalil Sehbe S.A. – Camia Do Sul. European influence is also visible in the hardware. Though made in Brazil, the Astro brand zipper (with interesting stapled grommet style male end) does up on the left track as opposed to the American way of having it on the right. The jacket has a quilted lining.

Chest (pit to pit): 25″ (doubled = 50″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 20″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff):24″
Length (base of collar to hem) 26-1/2″
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1940s Patrick Duluth Hollywood jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281479077025
This vintage jacket was made by the FA Patrick Company of Duluth, Minnesota. It is made in blue-gray striped wool, in a casual Hollywood jacket style. It has three patch pockets and a wide collar. From the label and styling, this jacket dates from the late 1940s to early 1950s.
Chest (pit to pit): 23″ (doubled = 46″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 19″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24″
Length (base of collar to hem): 29″

A bit about the company, from a history piece I wrote for “The Fedora Lounge”
: The F.A. Patrick Company, proprietors of the Patrick-Duluth Woolen Mills of Duluth, Minnesota were responsible for taking the Mackinaw coat out of lumber camps of western Canada and introducing them to students, workmen and athletes across the United States. Early on, the Patrick Company were jobbers, making dry goods, primarily for clients in the Northwest of the United States in Canada. In 1901, Patrick began buying fabric from a Scandinavian mackinaw cloth factory in Fosston, Minnesota. In 1906, seeing potential, Patrick bought that factory and began making their own Mackinaw cloth, eventually becoming one of its leading producers. The fabric and the coats made from it were popular with miners, fur trappers, lumberjacks and hunters.

In 1912, Patrick launched a new, refined mackinaw design. It was double breasted, belted and sported a collar described in the ads of the period as a “nansen” collar. Though the term also existed then, we now refer to this style as a shawl collar. The coat was 35″ long and was available in 24 and 32 oz wool mackinaw cloth, in a wide variety of colors. Salesman Harry Harrington began to pitch the Patrick Mackinaw to clothiers in college towns. “It was not long after that that mackinaws became a fad with students generally, and as the college student invariably sets the styles for young men’s clothing, it quickly spread over the whole country”. The early mackinaw trend was marketed in a similar way to the current workwear trend, trading on the rugged associations of the workers for whom the garment was originally designed. The mackinaw fad boomed, and shortly, a number of other manufacturers sprung onto the scene, producing mackinaws of varying quality from a variety of cloths. Large quantities of Patrick mackinaws were sold through such high end stores as Brooks Brothers, Rogers Peet, Wannamaker, Abercrombie and Fitch, Brokaw Brothers, and A. Raymond.
It is around this 1912-1913 period where the name “Mackinaw” begins to be more associated with the short, double breasted, shawl collar style, and less with the mackinaw cloth material from which it was made. The fad lasted about a year and a half. Patrick could not keep up with the growing demand caused by the collegiate fad, and the inferior fabric quality of some competitors led to the downfall of this first-wave craze.

Seeing the end of the craze, Patrick-Duluth re-branded its mackinaw once again, refining its pattern and marketing it to farmers, children, hunters and outdoorsmen, workers, and sportsmen. Its durability, warmth, low price compared to comparable overcoats or sheeplined coats, made it an easy sell to these markets. Alongside sheeplined canvas coats, Patrick Mackinaws became the de-facto winter coat of railroad employees. To further expand the market, patterns were made for men and women, boys and girls. Patrick intensified their national advertising, placing ads in the Saturday Evening Post, Country Gentleman, Farm Journal, Woman’s World, American Boy, Youth’s Companion, Boy’s Life, and many more. The name of the product was shortened from “Patrick-Duluth Woolen Mill Mackinaw” to simply “Patrick”, in a bid to make their brand name the generic trade name on the market, thereby foiling the business of competitors. Their slogan “Bigger than Weather” was penned by Elbert Hubbard. Ads were illustrated by Peter Newell and Clare Briggs. In the years between 1911 and 1914, Patrick had quadrupled its production, expanding from their two story mill to a six story mill on Duluth habror, a garment factory in Duluth, and knitting and spinning mills in Mankato, MN.

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A guide to dating Talon Zippers

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1940s Allen gabardine western cossack jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281472851496
This vintage jacket was made in the late 1940s by the Allen Mfg. Co. of Denver Colorado. While Allen primarily made westernwear, this jacket seems to fit more into the mold of 1940s California sportswear. It is a waist length Cossack style, with pleated patch pockets. Their angled tops wrap around into the buttoned side adjuster belts. There is a single chest pocket with a Conmar chain zipper. The main zipper is a spring loaded Crown with the “two way” teeth developed by them during WWII. It has a bi-swing back.

Chest (pit to pit): 24″ (doubled = 48″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 19″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 25″
Length (Base of collar to hem): 26″

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