1918 dated WWI army overcoat

Posted on March 31, 2015 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281645258225
This vintage overcoat was made in 1918 by Cohen Endel . . . of New York and was distributed by the New York Depot quartermaster. The coat is double breasted, with a belted back and buttoned throat latch. There is a secondary stamp from the New York Depot, stamped Marvin Falk and what looks like 1933. The belt-back is is sewn over the tag and lining, and from its construction, looks like it may have been added later. There is a army air corps patch on the shoulder, obviously added later than WWI, however if the coat was re-issued in the 1930s, it would likely have been added at that point. The As is typical of coats of this period, it is only partially lined.

Chest (pit to pit): 21″” (doubled = 42″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 18″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24″
Length (Base of collar to hem): 38″

1910s-1920s pullover workshirt

Posted on March 6, 2015 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281614480484
This vintage shirt was made in the late 1910s- mid 1920s. It is made of red wool, in a pullover style, with a convertible collar and buttoned breast pockets. This style of convertible collar, designed to be worn either buttoned up, or worn spread for a look similar to the lumberjack jackets of the time, was briefly popular on workshirts in this time frame. The shirt has a bold reinforcement panel, stitched so that it doubles as a small third pocket.

Chest (pit to pit): 24″ (doubled = 48″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 20″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 23″
Length (base of collar to hem): 27-1/2″

Ralph Lauren Country hunting Norfolk jacket

Posted on February 3, 2015 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271761752771
This jacket was made by Ralph Lauren. It draws its design influence heavily from hunting and outdoor garments of the 1900s-1920s, with its norfolk straps and full attached belt. It has a corduroy collar, ticket pocket, cuff straps, and button on throat latch as well as saddle bag pockets. This was made as part of the Ralph Lauren Country line. As an older piece of Ralph Lauren, this one lists the company as having been established in 1971 as opposed to the back-dated 1967 which newer Ralph Lauren garments do.

Chest (pit to pit): 25″ (doubled = 50″)
Shoulder to shoulder:22″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 23″
Length (base of collar to hem): 30″

Ralph Lauren reproduction 1920s hunting jacket

Posted on January 12, 2015 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271738109867
This hunting jacket was made by Ralph Lauren as part of their now defunct Polo Sportsman line. It is made of brown canvas and is sort of a greatest hits version of 1910s-1930s hunting jackets, drawing mainly from the detailing of Red Head and Duxbak designs. It has a front entry half-moon style game pouch, double breast pocket and double round cargo pockets. The shoulders are reinforced and there is corduroy on the collar and inside the cuffs. The sleeves have double ventilated armpit gussets, the collar has a buttoned throat latch, and the cuffs have a distinctive button closure, which, unlike the rest of the detailing of the coat, I do not recognize.

Chest (pit to pit): 25″ (doubled = 50″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 21″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24-1/2″
Length (base of collar to hem): 31″

1900s fur lined wool overcoat

Posted on December 20, 2014 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281534425466
This vintage overcoat was made around the turn of the century. It is double breasted and has a wool shell with an astrakhan collar, toggle closure, cuffed sleeves, ticket pocket and full fur lining. Perfect for the aspiring robber baron.

Chest (pit to pit): 24″ (doubled = 48″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 20″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24-1/2″
Length (base of collar to hem): 48″

1910s Tryonette hunting vest

Posted on December 20, 2014 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281514804839
This vintage vest was made in the 1910s-1920s by the Edward K. Tryon company of Philadelphia, Pennsylvania from their rainproof Tryonette cloth. The fabric has been Cravenette proofed. The “Double Service for clear days for stormy days” label stopped being used in the 1920s. The vest has a belted back and 44 canvas closed bottomed shotgun shell loops.
Edward K Tryon was founded in 1811 and survived through to 1964.They were located at 815 Arch Street, Philadelphia, PA

Chest (pit to pit): 20″ (doubled = 40″)
Length: 19″

1910s The Gem Hunting vest

Posted on November 2, 2014 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271654532285
This vintage hunting vest was made by the Gem Shirt Company of Dayton, Ohio in the 1910s. The Gem Shirt Co. was founded c.1888, and diversified into canvas hunting clothes in the early part of the 20th century, innovating the usage of lined waterproof game bags. They were a high end maker at the time, making their products from an excellent grade of cotton canvas duck. They ceased production by the 1920s.
This vest is their budget version, with sewn on buttons instead of changable ring-backed ones, and without the side adjusters or buckle back which other models featured.

Chest (pit to pit): 21″ (doubled = 42″)
Length (front): 22″
Length (rear): 19″

For other vests made by the Gem shirt company, see here and here

1917 Hookless Zipper- The first production zipper

Posted on October 27, 2014 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281479010615
This vintage money belt was made in 1917 or early 1918. It is khaki colored canvas, with a three compartment zippered pouch and a waist belt. These were generally advertised to servicemen during WWI, and were one of the earliest applications of the then brand-new Hookless fastener. The zipper on this one is the earliest production model produced by Hookless, produced under patent no. 1219881, applied for in 1914 and granted in 1917. An improved model came out later in 1917, narrowing the dating of this model down significantly. These early sliders were intricate, and were simplified significantly in later versions. The stop at the end of the zip is made from unstamped teeth, unlike later versions, where this was a specialized component. The buckle on the belt was made by Adjusta and was patented in 1912, and on January 27, 1914.

A guide to dating Talon Zippers

Posted on October 26, 2014 by Spencer Stewart

1910s “The Gem” Special hunting vest

Posted on May 14, 2014 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281337853385
This vintage hunting vest was made by the Gem Shirt Company of Dayton, Ohio in the 1910s. The Gem Shirt Co. was founded c.1888, and diversified into canvas hunting clothes in the early part of the 20th century, innovating the usage of lined waterproof game bags. They were a high end maker at the time, making their products from an excellent grade of cotton canvas duck. They ceased production by the 1920s.
The vest has 37 closed bottomed reinforced corduroy shotgun shell pockets on the front of the vest. The corduroy material is somewhat unusual, a nice early detail. The back is belted, but instead of the usual vest style central belt and buckle arrangement, this one has double side adjuster belts. It has Southwick buckles, a type patented in 1906, also used on some DuxBak vests of the period. It has an early black and yellow label, which identifies this model as the “Special”, made for “Outers and Hunters”. The grouse on the label is carried through onto the figural buttons. They are removable ring-back, of the type common on workwear of the period.

Chest (pit to pit): 22″ (doubled = 44″)
Length (front): 24″
Length (rear): 19″

For another vest made by “The Gem”, see here. A comparison of the two is below.

Patent no 819,180, as found on the back of the buckle. Patented May 1, 1906

The logo for “The Gem” was trademarked in 1911, although it had been in use since 1888. The label on this vest reads “Registered”, dating it after 1911.

Ad for “The Gem” from 1912

The Gem Hunting Coat, 1917

1918. Guiterman Bros Town and Country vest, Gem Hunting Coat and a Springfield Rifle

1923. Gem Hunting Vests and coats. This is the last I can find on the company.

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