Gordon & Ferguson Field & Stream sheeplined mackinaw

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271397591682
This vintage coat was made in the 1930s by Gordon & Ferguson of St. Paul, Minnesota. At the time, this would have been sold as a “sheelpined coat”, though the term “shawl collar mackinaw” has come to also encompass this style. It has a broad mouton shawl collar, and is 3/4 lined with sheepskin. Consistent with the early dating, the sleeves are lined in a blanket material. The pockets all have triangular leather reinforcements at the corners. The leather loop closure for the buttons, as opposed to corded loops or buttonholes seems to be a uniquely Gordon and Ferguson detail. I have only ever seen it on coats made by them and by Guiterman Bros. after the G&F buyout in the late 1920s. See that Guiterman Town & Country here: https://vintagehaberdashers.com/2013/12/19/town-and-country-sheeplined-coat/

Chest (pit to pit): 21″ (doubled = 42″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 20″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 26″
Length (Base of collar to hem): 34″

 photo IMG_0125.jpg

 photo IMG_0126.jpg

 photo IMG_0127.jpg

 photo IMG_0128.jpg

 photo IMG_0130.jpg

 photo IMG_0131.jpg

 photo IMG_0133.jpg

 photo 1931.jpg

R.H. Macy 1930s plaid workshirt

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281262488148
This vintage plaid wool workshirt was made in the early 1930s and was sold by R.H. Macy & Co., Inc. They later simplified their name to Macy’s. The design of the shirt, in particular the distinctive pocket flaps, are consistent with what was being produced by LL Bean at the time. It’s likely they had the contract for this Macy’s store labeled shirt.

Chest (pit to pit): 22″ (doubled = 44″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 17″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24″
Length (base of collar to hem): 32″
Collar: 16″

 photo IMG_0048.jpg

 photo IMG_0050.jpg

 photo IMG_0047.jpg

 photo IMG_0052.jpg

 photo IMG_0055.jpg

 photo IMG_0056.jpg

 photo IMG_0057.jpg

Mid 1930s half-belt leather jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271391483127
This vintage leather jacket was made in the mid 1930, probably in Wisconsin judging by the materials and construction. It is an early half-belt / cossack style. It can be dated to this point both by style and by hardware. By style: In the late 1920s and early 1930s, a full leather waistband was prevalent. The fancy belted back started to gain traction in the mid 1930s, but the front still retained the bottom panels found on this jacket. By the end of the 1930s, most makers had abandoned these panels for a cleaner look. Stylistically this dates from that middle period. By hardware: The full length separable zipper was first found on jackets made 1930. The “sunburst” deco Talon stopbox found on this jacket joined the riveted style stopbox around the midpoint of the decade, eventually supplanting it in Talon’s product line, before disappearing itself in the early 1940s. So that narrows the date down between about 1935 and 1942. The snaps are made by United Carr. These are of a style which I have not seen on anything beyond the mid 1930s, with the spring section of the fastener appearing on the male side of the snap.
This jacket has been worn extremely hard. The cuffs and collar have been worn through, and a hole has been worn through on the side. That was repaired what looks like some decades ago, but the repair has worn out as well. The lining is missing, and the zipper is missing both the slider and the bottom couple inches of the teeth and tape on the male side. There is paint on the skirt beneath the belt.

Chest (pit to pit): 23″ (doubled = 46″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 18″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 25″
Length: 26″

 photo IMG_0028.jpg

 photo IMG_0029.jpg

 photo IMG_0018.jpg

 photo IMG_0019.jpg

 photo IMG_0021.jpg

 photo IMG_0020.jpg

 photo IMG_0022.jpg

 photo IMG_0023.jpg

 photo IMG_0024.jpg

 photo IMG_0027.jpg

 photo IMG_0030.jpg

 photo IMG_0031.jpg

 photo IMG_0032.jpg

 photo IMG_0033.jpg

 photo IMG_0034.jpg

 photo IMG_0035.jpg

1940s Belt back double breasted mackinaw

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271391492640

This vintage mackinaw coat was made in the mid to late 1940s. Going by the style and the lining, it’s likely that it was sold by Sears under the Hercules label. Whereas most plaid jackets were made for the hunting market, this one is of the type marketed in the 1940s as workwear. It has a double breasted front, handwarmer pockets on the chest and large flapped pockets on the hips. The large zipped pocket on the right side is a nice and rarely seen detail. It does up with a bell shaped Talon zipper, which helps with the dating. This has a half-belt back. The coat has a blue plaid lining

Chest (pit to pit): 25″ (doubled = 50″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 21″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24″
Length: 29″

 photo IMG_0036.jpg

 photo IMG_0037.jpg

 photo IMG_0038.jpg

 photo IMG_0043.jpg

 photo IMG_0044.jpg

 photo IMG_0045.jpg

 photo IMG_0046.jpg

1920s point blanket Carss Mackinaw

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281243862765
This vintage coat was made by Carss Mackinaw, probably in the 1920s. It is made of striped point blanket material, with four patch pockets and a belted back. It has a squared off shawl collar, and caped shoulders, both distinctively Carss details. The coat is unlined, as is typical of mackinaws of this era.

Chest (pit to pit): 24″ (doubled = 48″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 18-1/2″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 25″
Length: 30″

A bit about the company, from a history piece I wrote for “The Fedora Lounge”: Carss Mackinaw made blanket coats in Orillia, Ontario from at least 1897. Their signature model was single breasted with caped shoulders and a squared-off shawl collar. They are most commonly seen in red, green, and khaki, all with a blanket stripe at the base. The fabric used in these coats was advertised as a whopping 44oz (although this one feels lighter), and was sourced from a variety of trade blanket manufacturers, including Hudson’s Bay and the Bird Woolen Mills. They were advertised as “The Only Genuine Mackinaw Made In Canada”. They were retailed by the Hudson’s Bay Company, as well as other stores.

 photo IMG_1090.jpg

 photo IMG_1092.jpg

 photo IMG_1094.jpg

 photo IMG_1095.jpg

 photo IMG_1096.jpg

 photo IMG_1098.jpg

 photo IMG_1099.jpg

 photo IMG_1100.jpg

WWI army pullover shirt

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271352941389
This is a WWI army shirt. It is a pullover style, with two large breast pockets, a three button front, and elbow reinforcements. The tails are gusseted.

Chest (pit to pit): 22″
Shoulder to shoulder: 17″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 22″
Length: 30″
Collar: 14″

 photo IMG_0154.jpg

 photo IMG_0155.jpg

 photo IMG_0156.jpg

 photo IMG_0157.jpg

 photo IMG_0158.jpg

1920s Carss Mackinaw coat

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271352494287
This vintage coat was made by Carss Mackinaw, probably in the 1920s. This is a rare version. Most were made in striped point blanket material, with four patch pockets and a belted back. This one is made from a wool plaid. It has a squared off shawl collar, with patch breast pockets and handwarmers in a shape which would eventually inspire the D-Pocket found on motorcycle jackets. There are access flaps to an internal game pocket, and adjuster belts, mounted high on the back. The shoulders have pinked capes.

Chest (pit to pit): 24″ (doubled = 48″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 18-1/2″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24″
Length: 30″

A bit about the company, from a history piece I wrote for “The Fedora Lounge”: Carss Mackinaw made blanket coats in Orillia, Ontario from at least 1897. Their signature model was single breasted with caped shoulders and a squared-off shawl collar. They are most commonly seen in red, green, and khaki, all with a blanket stripe at the base. The fabric used in these coats was advertised as a whopping 44oz, and was sourced from a variety of trade blanket manufacturers, including Hudson’s Bay and the Bird Woolen Mills. They were advertised as “The Only Genuine Mackinaw Made In Canada”. They were retailed by the Hudson’s Bay Company, as well as other stores.

 photo IMG_0035-1.jpg

 photo IMG_0036-3.jpg

 photo IMG_0116.jpg

 photo IMG_0127.jpg

 photo IMG_0126.jpg

 photo IMG_0110.jpg

 photo IMG_0111.jpg

 photo IMG_0112.jpg

 photo IMG_0113.jpg

 photo IMG_0117.jpg

 photo IMG_0118.jpg

 photo IMG_0120.jpg

 photo IMG_0121.jpg

 photo IMG_0122.jpg

 photo IMG_0123.jpg

 photo IMG_0124.jpg

1920s plaid Big Indian Shirt workshirt

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271352508597
This vintage plaid wool workshirt was made by the Big Indian Shirt company. This is their early yellow and black label with tipis, which was used in the 1920s through the early 1930s. There are two breast pockets. The left one is cut to hold a pen. The collar has a nice shape, with a dramatic undercurve. The tails have gussets.

While most plaid shirts like this were made by outdoors companies like Woolrich, Big Indian was exclusively a workwear company, producing primarily in chambray. Their popularity peaked in the mid 1920s.

Chest (pit to pit): 22″
Shoulder to shoulder: 17″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 23-1/2″
Length: 28″
Neck: 15″

 photo IMG_0129.jpg

 photo IMG_0136.jpg

 photo IMG_0132.jpg

 photo IMG_0133.jpg

 photo IMG_0134.jpg

 photo IMG_0130.jpg

 photo IMG_0137.jpg

 photo IMG_0131.jpg

 photo 19242.jpg

 photo 1924-1.jpg

 photo 19241.jpg

 photo 1941.jpg

 photo 1940s.jpg

WWI army shirt

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281231419370
This is a WWI army issue pullover wool shirt. It has two breast pockets, one with stitching for a pen. The sleeves have reinforcements at the shoulders. The original tag is still at the hem, but it is mostly illegible. The chest and placket are partially lined. There are gussets at the tails.

Chest (pit to pit): 24-1/2″ (doubled = 49″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 18″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 23-1/2″
Length: 32-1/2″
Neck: 16″

 photo IMG_0139.jpg

 photo IMG_0142.jpg

 photo IMG_0143.jpg

 photo IMG_0144.jpg

 photo IMG_0145.jpg

 photo IMG_0146.jpg

 photo IMG_0147.jpg

 photo IMG_0148.jpg

 photo IMG_0152.jpg

WWI pullover chinstrap army shirt

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281230818394
This vintage wool shirt was made by the Metropolitan Shirt Company during WWI. This was a private purchase item, deviating from the standard pattern slightly. It is a pullover style, with an extended collar stand chinstrap. It has tail gussets. There are two small flapped breast pockets. The placket and the collar stand are cotton lined. These shirts were commonly worn after the end of the war in the 1920s as workshirts.

Chest: 22″
Shoulder to shoulder: 16″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 22-1/2″
Length: 30″
Collar: 14″

 photo IMG_0062.jpg

 photo IMG_0076.jpg

 photo IMG_0063.jpg

 photo IMG_0068.jpg

 photo IMG_0073.jpg

 photo IMG_0074.jpg

 photo IMG_0075.jpg