Ralph Lauren reproduction half-belt

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281498532031
This jacket was made by Ralph Lauren under the Polo label. It was made in the USA from black wool in a 1930s half-belt cossack work jacket style. The jacket is zipper front, with handwarmer pockets and a zipper breast pocket. The back is belted and yoked with side adjuster belts. The jacket is unlined. With a 50″ chest, this would best fit someone in the size 44-46 range.

Chest (pit to pit): 25″ (doubled = 50″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 21″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24-1/2″
Length (Base of collar to hem): 28-1/2″

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1930s half-zip, half button moose pattern camp blanket coat

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281498553174
This vintage coat was made in the 1930s from moose patterned wool camp blanket material. The coat is made in a rare pattern, with a half-zip bottom and a 3×6 double breasted top that was made in small numbers between about 1934-1939, notably by Congress Sportswear as part of their Maine Guide line. Most were made from red and black Hudson’s Bay point blanket material, but this one is made of a more distinctive camp blanket. The blanket material has a red background with orange and camel colored stripes, approximating sunrise, and black moose. I have found several examples of this moose-meets-deco patterned Indian Blanket from other sources that have been attributed to the Pendleton Woolen mills, but none with a surviving label, so I can’t be sure. LL Bean was selling a similar coat in the mid 1930s from their figural mallard patterned blankets. The jacket has two handwarmer pockets and a yoke which forms the “chest protector” double breasted section. The coat has a zipper hood which buttons down into a collar. The hood spreads into a collar or zips into a hood with a Talon zipper, with a deco-lined slider and rounded slider-to-puller assembly only produced in the mid 1930s, and a bell-shaped pull. The original owner must have loved this coat, the main zipper, probably a grommet Talon was replaced with a 1950s Talon. Wear to the hem was repaired with patches and stitching. The chest was darned. The underarm and front corner were patched with buffalo plaid wool. But with such a distinctive coat, both in terms of material and in terms of cut, who can blame them?

Chest (pit to pit): 23″ (doubled = 46″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 19″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24-1/2″
Length (base of collar to hem): 32″

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1920s TW Stevenson leather lined shawl collar mackinaw coat

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271666301961
This vintage mackinaw coat was made in the 1920s by the TW Stevenson Mfg. Co of Minneapolis. Stevenson was a producer of mackinaw coats and leather jackets from the late 1800s through the 1930s. The company was headquartered at 416 N. 1st Avenue, Minneapolis, Minnesota.
This coat is an early-style shawl collared mackinaw. It is double breasted, belted, with patch pockets and is constructed from heavy brown mackinaw wool. The coat is fully leather lined, body and sleeves. Such leather linings were popular in the 1910s-1920s as a windproof layer in outdoor / workwear coats. Starting in the late 1920s, leather became a more a more popular material for coat exteriors, and the popularity of the position wool and leather switched. The coat has the name Walter Sternitzke written in the lining, though the coat was probably originally purchased by his father, Reinhold Sternizke, a farmer from the town of Aitkin, Minnesota.

Chest (pit to pit): 25″ (doubled = 50″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 20″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 26″
Length (base of collar to hem): 37″

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Ralph Lauren reproduction half-belt jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281494822773
This jacket was made by Ralph Lauren under the Polo label. It is made of gray wool in a 1930s half-belt cossack work jacket style. The jacket is zipper front, with handwarmer pockets and a zipper breast pocket. The back is belted and yoked with side adjuster belts. The jacket has a tartan lining. With a 50″ chest, this would best fit someone in the size 44-46 range.

Chest (pit to pit): 25″ (doubled = 50″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 21″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 26″
Length (Base of collar to hem): 29″

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1940s Bond Executive overcoat

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271662304172
This vintage overcoat was made in the 1940s by Bond Clothes under the Executive Group label. It is a dark blue gray heavyweight wool, in a single breasted, notch lapel cut. The coat is half-lined, as was typical of overcoats of this era, and bears a 1939 union tag, putting the dating in the ’40s.

Chest (pit to pit): 24-1/2″ (doubled = 49″)
shoulder to shoulder: 19″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 25″
Length (base of collar to hem): 44″

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1940s Patrick Duluth Hollywood jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281479077025
This vintage jacket was made by the FA Patrick Company of Duluth, Minnesota. It is made in blue-gray striped wool, in a casual Hollywood jacket style. It has three patch pockets and a wide collar. From the label and styling, this jacket dates from the late 1940s to early 1950s.
Chest (pit to pit): 23″ (doubled = 46″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 19″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24″
Length (base of collar to hem): 29″

A bit about the company, from a history piece I wrote for “The Fedora Lounge”
: The F.A. Patrick Company, proprietors of the Patrick-Duluth Woolen Mills of Duluth, Minnesota were responsible for taking the Mackinaw coat out of lumber camps of western Canada and introducing them to students, workmen and athletes across the United States. Early on, the Patrick Company were jobbers, making dry goods, primarily for clients in the Northwest of the United States in Canada. In 1901, Patrick began buying fabric from a Scandinavian mackinaw cloth factory in Fosston, Minnesota. In 1906, seeing potential, Patrick bought that factory and began making their own Mackinaw cloth, eventually becoming one of its leading producers. The fabric and the coats made from it were popular with miners, fur trappers, lumberjacks and hunters.

In 1912, Patrick launched a new, refined mackinaw design. It was double breasted, belted and sported a collar described in the ads of the period as a “nansen” collar. Though the term also existed then, we now refer to this style as a shawl collar. The coat was 35″ long and was available in 24 and 32 oz wool mackinaw cloth, in a wide variety of colors. Salesman Harry Harrington began to pitch the Patrick Mackinaw to clothiers in college towns. “It was not long after that that mackinaws became a fad with students generally, and as the college student invariably sets the styles for young men’s clothing, it quickly spread over the whole country”. The early mackinaw trend was marketed in a similar way to the current workwear trend, trading on the rugged associations of the workers for whom the garment was originally designed. The mackinaw fad boomed, and shortly, a number of other manufacturers sprung onto the scene, producing mackinaws of varying quality from a variety of cloths. Large quantities of Patrick mackinaws were sold through such high end stores as Brooks Brothers, Rogers Peet, Wannamaker, Abercrombie and Fitch, Brokaw Brothers, and A. Raymond.
It is around this 1912-1913 period where the name “Mackinaw” begins to be more associated with the short, double breasted, shawl collar style, and less with the mackinaw cloth material from which it was made. The fad lasted about a year and a half. Patrick could not keep up with the growing demand caused by the collegiate fad, and the inferior fabric quality of some competitors led to the downfall of this first-wave craze.

Seeing the end of the craze, Patrick-Duluth re-branded its mackinaw once again, refining its pattern and marketing it to farmers, children, hunters and outdoorsmen, workers, and sportsmen. Its durability, warmth, low price compared to comparable overcoats or sheeplined coats, made it an easy sell to these markets. Alongside sheeplined canvas coats, Patrick Mackinaws became the de-facto winter coat of railroad employees. To further expand the market, patterns were made for men and women, boys and girls. Patrick intensified their national advertising, placing ads in the Saturday Evening Post, Country Gentleman, Farm Journal, Woman’s World, American Boy, Youth’s Companion, Boy’s Life, and many more. The name of the product was shortened from “Patrick-Duluth Woolen Mill Mackinaw” to simply “Patrick”, in a bid to make their brand name the generic trade name on the market, thereby foiling the business of competitors. Their slogan “Bigger than Weather” was penned by Elbert Hubbard. Ads were illustrated by Peter Newell and Clare Briggs. In the years between 1911 and 1914, Patrick had quadrupled its production, expanding from their two story mill to a six story mill on Duluth habror, a garment factory in Duluth, and knitting and spinning mills in Mankato, MN.

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1950s Frankoat tweed Chesterfield overcoat

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281470030913
This vintage coat was made in the 1950s by Frank Bros under the Frankoat label. It was sold in Vincennes, Indiana by Albert’s, Inc. It is made of a gray tweed wool, with a velvet collar to give it that Chesterfield overcoat style. By the way it wraps from the front to the back of the collar, my guess would be that the velvet collar was added by a tailor after the coat’s initial manufacture. The coat has a plain back and cuffed sleeves.

Chest (pit to pit): 27″ (doubled = 54″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 21″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 26-1/2″
Length (Base of collar to hem): 45″

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Early’s Witney Point blanket mackinaw

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271627237074
This vintage coat was made in the late 1940s. The makers label, which appears to have been originally located above the Milium label, is unfortunately missing. The coat is made of English made Early’s Witney Point blanket material, heavier and thicker than those of the Hudson’s Bay Company in this period. The coat is the classic point blanket mackinaw pattern and cut, in red with black stripes. It is double breasted and belted, with handwarmers and cargo pockets. The coat is fully lined with Milium insulation.

Tagged Size: 44
Chest (pit to pit): 26″ (doubled = 52″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 21″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 26″
Length (base of collar to hem): 36-1/2″

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Womens Hudsons Bay point blanket coat

This vintage coat was made in the 1950s-1960s by the Hudson’s Bay Comapny from their iconic multi-stripe point blankets. This style was produced in the 1950s and 1960s and was joined by and later replaced by a double breasted design. This one has a modified shawl collar and high button stance. It has buttons for the rarely seen and rarely used button-on hood, which is not included with this jacket.

Chest (pit to pit): 22″ (doubled = 44″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 16″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24″
Length (base of collar to hem): 31″

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American Red Cross sweater vest

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271593826542
This vintage sweater vest was knit by a member of the American Red Cross during WWII for an american serviceman. It has a V neck with a distinctive square back and trim ribbing.
Chest (pit to pit, unstretched): 17″ (doubled = 34″)
Chest (pit to pit, stretched): 24″ (doubled = 48″)
Length: 24″

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