Rem DriDux

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281204172608
This vintage fishing vest was made in the 1930s or 1940s by Remington under the Rem DriDux label. The fabric was advertised as “snag-pruf” and as being guaranteed water repellent. There are pleated breast pockets, and wraparound double hip pockets. One has a divider with separate flaps, one has a single flap. There is a fly rod loop, a waist drawstring, pockets on each sleeve, and a roomy rear game pocket. Hanging from the fly rod loop is a pair of nail clippers, probably to cut fishing line with. There are two interior pockets. This type of vest was generally advertised as a sleeveless jacket or a sleeveless coat. I recently sold another by the same maker, sold under the “WeatherBak” label, which had sleeves.

Chest (pit to pit): 23″ (doubled = 46″)
Length: 23″

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J.O. Ballard Malone mackinaw

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281200082748
This vintage mackinaw was made by J.O. Ballard & Co. of Malone, New York. The company was founded in 1888 by Jay Olin Ballard, and traded alternately under the J.O Ballard name and the name, Malone Woolen Mills. The company began making wool outdoorsman’s breeches in 1891 and followed up with mackinaw coats like this one. They were famous for their Malone plaid- gray with red and green overchecks. Coats of this cut were advertised to hunters, hikers, mountain climbers, lumberjacks, workmen and all other stripes of outdoorsmen. The depression closed the company in 1933. It re-opened again in 1935 with the assistance of an Reconstruction Finance Corporation loan, a depression era loan program.
The coat has four flapped pockets and two slash pockets. The slash pockets, in the traditional position of handwarmer pockets, pass through directly to the game pocket. There is also access to the game pocket from flaps on the back of the coat. Unlike the similar Woolrich design, this one has buttons on the pockets instead of snaps and exposed buttoning on the front. The lining is mustard colored cotton. The sleeves have buttoned adjusters.

Chest (pit to pit): 22-1/2″ (doubled = 45″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 19″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24″
Length: 29″

 

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Soo Woolen Mills plaid surcoat

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281198324999
This vintage plaid mackinaw coat was made by the Soo Woolen Mills of Sault Ste. Marie, Michigan immediately after WWII. It has a surcoat zipper attachment and length. The main zipper is a rare transitional talon- with a Talon marked stop box of the type used in the mid-late 1940s. The main zip has a square sided, square holed puller, a type used very briefly as they were transitioning between the square edged pullers with a small hole and round ended pullers with a larger hole. The pockets zip with bell shaped, round holed Conmar zippers. The overall cut of the coat is interesting, with its long rear pleat topped with triangle reinforcing stitching and a belted, buttoned back. Most plaid mackinaws were of very traditional designs which changed very little over the years. This particular Soo model was very modern and sport for the time it was made. It is lined in red flannel, and is marked young adult age/size 20, which going by the measurements, is about a men’s size 44 short.

Chest (pit to pit): 25″ (doubled = 50″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 19″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 23-1/2″
Length: 28″

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1940s Fitzgerald Special fedora

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271309651870
This vintage fedora was custom made in Boston by Fitzgerald hatters. I believe it dates from just after the war from the style, but the construction has a number of more typically pre-war details to it. The hat has a fancy pleated liner and a textured, unreeded sweatband. The hat has a teardrop crown, narrow brim binding and a fancy ribbon.

Size: 7-1/8

Here’s another from Fitzgerald, dating to the 1960s

https://vintagehaberdashers.com/2012/06/03/the-fitzgerald-special-boston/

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1930s AlPeru overcoat

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281197994086
This vintage overcoat was made in the late 1930s by Roger Williams from Alperu fabric and was sold by The Fair, either at their Chicago or Oak Park location. In the 1930s, these Alperu fabric overcoats retailed for $40. In today’s money, that’s the equivalent of a $650 coat. Despite the “Warmth Without Weight” slogan, this is quite a heavyweight coat. It is single breasted, with notch lapels, flapped patch pockets and half-cuffed sleeves. The coat is fully lined and has a vertical interior breast pocket.

I love all these brand names from the 1930s and 1940s.  Alperu.  Alpacama, Alpagora, IncaPaca, Algora, BalPaca, etc.

Chest (pit to pit): 24″(doubled = 48″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 20″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 26″
Length: 44″

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1920s Wool A-1 jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281196431961

This vintage jacket was made prior to 1926 in a wool A-1 style out of Hudson’s Bay point blankets.

In the early 1920s, a style of jacket emerged that would later come to be adapted into the A-1 flight jacket. This style had knit cuffs, a knit collar and a knit waistband, to keep of the wind and cold. It was produced in both wool and leather, and was marketed toward men who spent time out of doors- workmen and sportsmen. By the mid 1920s, the style started to evolve, with some makers dropping the knit collar for one in a shirt style made of the same material as the body. That variant, made in leather, later became the A-2 flight jacket. This jacket dates from the transitional period between the two. It has a waist length cut with a knit waistband and cuffs. It has a button front, as the separable bottomed zipper pioneered by Hookless Fastener, which allowed for zipper fronted jackets, would not go into production until 1930. Although most jackets of this style had flapped patch pockets, the positioning of them varied by maker and model. While some had them down towards the waistband in a setup now considered conventional, this one has them positioned midway up the chest.

The chinstrap detail is taken straight from workshirts of the period- constructed in the same way, with an extended collar stand with two buttonholes. The two tone nature of the red and black blanket material allows for a great two tone look, highlighting the pocket flaps and the collar.

The jacket is constructed from a three point sized Hudson’s Bay Company Point blanket. This material would have pushed this particular jacket into the top of the line position for this style. Jackets such as this made from HBC blankets were regularly double (or more) the cost of a heavyweight wool jacket of the same model and manufacturer. It was often an even pricier material option than the horsehide or capeskin leather options. The Hudson Bay blankets have a long and proud tradition in the history of rugged clothing for outdoorsmen. An icon of Canadian culture, the blankets at this time were made in England. The first mackinaw coats were tailored from then in 1780. Fur traders wore Capotes made from this fabric throughout the 19th century. Lumbermen of the late 19th and early 20th century prized the brightly colored coats as being the best on the market for warmth and durability. This one bears an early style label, before the “Reg. No.” was added to the bottom in 1926.

Chest (pit to pit): 27″ (doubled = 54″)
Shoulder to Shoulder: 23″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 23-1/2″
Length (to bottom of knit): 27-1/2″

 

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These ads are from the 1930s, but give an idea of the pricepoint comparisons. In this period, they were frequently advertised alongside horsehide and mouton ” Grizzly ” jackets, and other such expensive and rugged garments.  photo 193606Stitch-Copy.jpg

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Pre-War R. Plankl loden mackinaw

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281196380619
This vintage coat was made in Austria before WWII by R. Plankl of Vienna. R. Plankl was founded in 1830, and is one of the oldest and most respected makers and dealers of loden wool goods in the world. While examples of their work from the 1960s and 1970s come on the market fairly regularly, it’s exceedingly rare to see anything from the 1920s or 1930s period.
This coat is made of high quality loden wool, with a nice nap to it. The front follows the basic layout of what in America was called the mackinaw coat. Double breasted, flapped pockets with slash handwarmers above. The sleeves have stylishly angled buttoned adjuster belts. The back of the coat is belted, with a deep pleat starting at the shoulders and continuing to the hem, for additional freedom of motion while wearing the coat. The coat is unlined in most of the body, with a double layer in the front and in the shoulders. There are two buttoned interior pockets. The label is of a style commonly seen in the 1920s and 1930s, with a black background and yellow text. The tag reads ” Wien / R. Plankl / I. Michaelerplatz 6″, and has a logo of a rucksack with crossed ice axes.

Chest (pit to pit): 26″ (doubled = 52″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 21″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 26″
Length: 33″

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ClothCraft gray flannel sportcoat

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271307328400

This vintage gray flannel jacket was made in the 1950s by Joseph & Feiss under the ClothCraft label. The jacket bears a 1949 union label. It has a two button front, patch pockets, and a half lining.

Chest (pit to pit): 22″
Shoulder to shoulder: 18″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 25-1/2″
Length: 31″

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Block Sportswear corduroy jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281195946202

This vintage jacket was made in California by Block Sportswear in the 1940s. It is brown narrow wale corduroy. It has a three button front and leather buttons. There are twin patch breast pockets and it is unvented. The jacket is fully lined.

Chest (pit to pit): 22″
Shoulder to shoulder: 20″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 26″
Length: 32″

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Melton Wintermaster two tone jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271306991316
This vintage jacket was made in the USA by Melton, under their Wintermaster line. The overall lines of the jacket, with its two tone styling, unlined construction, pocket setup and back belt adjusters all suggest the 1940s or early 1950s, but the hardware points to a date of manufacture no older than the 1960s. This is probably a model that was kept in their product line with no major changes for a long time.

Chest (pit to pit): 23″ (doubled = 46″)
Shoulder to Shoulder: 19″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 23-1/2″
Length: 25″

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