1940s Front Quarter horsehide jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281349331760
This vintage leather jacket was made in the 1940s. The style, with knit waistband and cuffs, and slash handwarmer pockets was popular after the war. It is made of full grain front quarter horsehide, with a mouton collar. The jacket is lined in alpaca and corduroy, with quilted sleeve linings. The zipper is a later replacement from a no-name maker, with non-matching stitching. The cuffs and knit waistband also appear to be replacements. The jacket has a one piece back with a straight shoulder yoke. The horsehide has wonderful grain accented by decades of use. I have seen this particular design of yellow and black horsehide label, and this style of lining on earlier button front barnstormer models, but not on a post-war bomber jacket style like this. The leather has wear and loss of finish, but is still solid and supple.

Chest (pit to pit): 24″ (doubled = 48″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 19″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24-1/2″
Length (base of collar to end of cuff): 23″

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c.1940 Woolrich railroad vest

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281349001502

This vintage vest was made in Woolrich, Pennsylvania by the Woolrich Woolen Mills. Woolrich changed their label design frequently, which makes them easy to date if you know what you’re looking for. This variant on the label was used from about 1940-1945. The design of the United Carr snaps are also a giveaway for this vest’s date of manufacture. In the 1930s, Woolrich used snaps with one of two variations on a greek key pattern. During WWII, they switched to a plain topped design, featured on this vest. Starting in the late 1940s, Woolrich switched to snaps bearing the Woolrich name, before switching back to a different variation on the plain topped snaps in the 1960s. The design of the back of the snap further confirms this dating.

The vest is made of Woolrich’s signature mackinaw wool. The vest has a snap front, and bound seams. Although some examples you see are the sleeved variation with the sleeves removed, the construction on those is different. The vest has a belt adjuster back and asymmetric top and bottom patch pockets. Comparisons to Brown’s Beach Jacket vests of the same period are inevitable. This vest has a single large interior pocket.

Woolrich still makes a version of this model, however, the snaps have given way to a zipper, the cut has been lengthened, the armholes lowered, the shape of the front and rear changed, the wool fabric is now a blend, the pockets are a different shape, the construction is different and the taped seams altered. There is really no comparison the the original.

Chest (pit to pit): 20″ (doubled = 40″
Length (back) 20-1/2″
Length (front): 23-1/2″

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1907 dated cutaway coat

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271506052952
This vintage cutaway coat was made in 1907 by Henry Jonas of Butte, Montana for M.A. Berger, a noted land agent in the Butte area in the late 1800s and early decades of the 1900s. Butte was well known in that period for its copper mining. The coat bears the label of the Journeyman Tailors of America union.

Chest (pit to pit): 20″
Shoulder to shoulder: 17-3/4″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24″
Length (base of collar to hem): 36″

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1940s Hart Schaffner & Marx single breasted overcoat

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281347291603
This vintage overcoat was made in the 1940s by Hart Schaffner & Marx and was sold by Moore, which had locations in San Francisco and Oakland, California. It is made of lightweight light-brown salt and pepper wool. It has a single breasted cut with a fly front, wide peak lapels, and button adjustment belts on the cuffs.

Chest (pit to pit): 22-1/2″
Shoulder to shoulder: 17″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 25″
Length: 42″

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Yellow Point Blanket Coat

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271506036864
This vintage coat was made by the United Colors of Benetton. It is made of striped point blanket material, like that made famous by the Hudson’s Bay blanket coats, but in a vibrant yellow, red, green and gray pattern never offered by the HBC. The collar is backed with corduroy. The coat is single breasted, with patch pockets.

Chest (pit to pit): 23″ (doubled = 46″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 21″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 23-1/2″
Length (base of collar to hem): 28″

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Capps Suit

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271505967217
This vintage suit was made in the late 1950s-early 1950s by Capps Clothes and was sold by The Hub, Bozeman, Montana. It is a classic two button, notch lapel cut, with a short center vent, and single pleated, cuffed pants.
The fabric is black and blue with a fantastic weave, which can be best seen in the shot of the zipper. Pants measure 30×28.5 and the jacket fits a size 38.

Jacket
Chest (pit to pit): 21″ (doubled = 42″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 18-1/2″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24-1/4″
Length (Base of collar to hem): 30-1/2″

Pants
Waist: 15″ (doubled = 30″)
Inseam: 28-1/2″
Outseam: 41″
Rise: 12-1/2″
Thigh: 13″
Knee: 12″
Cuff: 10″
Cuff width: 1-3/4″

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Curlee Clothes Suit

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271505912782
This vintage suit was made in the early 1960s by Curlee Clothes and was sold by McCracken Bros in Bozeman, Montana. It is single breasted, with a two button front and short side vents. The fabric is a subtle black and emerald green. Pants are flat fronted, cuffed and have a talon zipper. Jacket would best fit a size 42, and pants measure 35×30

Jacket
Chest (pit to pit): 23″ (doubled = 46″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 18-1/2″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 25″
Length (Base of collar to hem): 30-1/2″

Pants
Waist: 17-1/2″ (doubled = 35″)
Inseam: 30″
Outseam: 41-1/2″
Rise: 11-1/2″
Thigh: 12″
Knee: 11″
Cuff: 8-1/2″
Cuff width: 1-1/2″

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1950s Luca’s Custom Boater hat

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271504624215
This vintage boater was made in the 1950s. The body of the hat was likely made in Italy, and then finished by Luca’s Custom Made Hats, 509 John Street, Utica, NY. The hat has a traditional striped ribbon, a mesh liner, and a floating leather sweatband to help the stiff hat conform better to your head shape.

Size: 7-1/4
Brim Width: 1-3/4″
Crown Height: 3-3/8″

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Vintage 1950s Buco J-82 D-pocket leather jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281345326835
This vintage leather jacket was made by the Joseph Buegeleisen Company of Detroit Michigan, in the mid-late 1950s. The J-82 model was introduced by Buco c. 1955, and going by the style of Talon zippers on this example, it dates from this 1950s time frame. Although this jacket was cut down into a vest by its original biker owner, the detailing of the J-82 model is highly distinctive and makes it immediately recognizable. The jacket is made of heavy steerhide leather, with a D-pocket (also known as a pistol pocket or a map pocket). Whereas many other D-pocket models had a patch cigarette pocket overtop the map pocket, the J-82 had a cleaner design, leaving that pocket uncluttered. There is a zipper breast pocket, somewhat of a holdover from aviator jacket styles of the 1940s, and a zippered slash handwarmer style pocket. The jacket has an attached belt, with a blacked out metal buckle and a metal tipped belt end to make threading it through easier. The belt loops and all pockets are reinforced and embellished with nickel plated rectangular high-dome studwork. The lapels snap down and there are additional snaps that a mouton collar could have originally been attached to. The jacket has a bi-swing back. The main zipper is a no.5 Talon of 1950s design, and all pocket zippers are bell-shaped Talons.
Wear this jacket over a denim jacket or like Lee Marvin in The Wild One over a striped shirt.

Chest (pit to pit): 19″
Length (base of collar to hem): 23″
Waist: 17″

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Original Perry A-2 horsehide flight jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271501781667
This vintage leather flight jacket was made by the Perry Sportswear company of Newburgh, New York. It is made of horsehide leather. The jacket has a pinlock Conmar zipper, United Carr ball-style snaps and grommets under the arms. The pockets have square reinforcement stitching, rounded corners, and shallowly scalloped pocket flaps. The arm has some period artwork on it for the 5th Air Corps. Unlike most, which were painted, this one is branded onto the leather.

Chest (pit to pit): 41″
Shoulder to shoulder: 17-1/2″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 20-1/2″ (missing knit cuffs, so will be longer once replaced)
Length (base of collar to end of waistband): 23-1/2″

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