Union Labels

An extremely rough guide to union tags. There are other unions whose tags are not represented here. Companies and tailors used what tags they had on hand, so there is overlap between different patterns of tags, and there are always exceptions and flukes.

1883 (1883-?)
NRA (1933-1936)

1934 (1934-1936) Not pictured: same as 1936 and 1939 tags
1936 (1936-1939)
1939 (1939-1949)
1949 (1949-1962)
1949 variant (1962-c.1976 ) I’ve seen examples of these on menswear dated into the 1980s, despite the union merging to form the ACTWU in 1976.

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Hydro Duck Canvas Coat

I sold this to a friend of mine at school.

Blaze orange canvas, reversible to hunting plaid. Clix zips on the game pouch and sleeve pocket. Leather reinforcement on the pockets. Made by Weather Chief. Supposedly water proof/resistant. I put that to the test by wearing it in light rain and found it to be patently false. Canadian Wildlife Federation patch, and some nice fade to the canvas.

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1930s “Wear Well Clothes” Overcoat

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271093599332

This vintage overcoat was made in the 1930s by “Wear Well Clothes”  It is a classic double breasted style, with sharp peak lapels, and a 4×6 buttoning. It has a pleated and belted back, and a nicely tailored nipped waist. Functional breast pocket. It is half lined.  The coat is in very condition- a bit of fraying to the label, and some light overall wear. It is a heavy navy blue wool. The 44″ chest means it should fit a 36, 38 or 40, depending on the layering underneath.

Chest: 22″ (doubled = 44″)
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 25-1/2″
 Shoulder to Shoulder: 18″
Length (collar to hem): 48″

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Monarch leather jacket

This vintage leather jacket was made by the Monarch company, a legendary leather jacket company of the golden era, who held an A-2 contract during the war.  This is an aviator / motorcycle style, with an asymmetrical front zip , two flapped pockets, and two map pockets.  It has epaulettes, belted sleeve cuffs, and a bi-swing half-belted back.  The main zip is a triple marked sunburst Talon. The tab on the male side (the side without the puller) is missing.  It’s still zip-able, but it takes a little bit to get the teeth to mesh initially.  The chain zippers on the two map pockets are also talons. There are two ventilation grommets under each arm.  The jacket is made of colt leather, a type of horsehide.  There is damage to the cuffs, and cracking to the collar.  The left shoulder has some flaking and the lining has wear and some moth damage.  This jacket has been worn and has acquired a fantastic patina over the years.
Chest: 22″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 25″
Shoulder to Shoulder: 18″

 Top of Collar to Hem: 28″

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1930s Armorknit overcoat

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281013663538

This vintage overcoat was made in the 1930s by Armorknit and was sold by Kennedy’s under their “Club Clothes” Label.  It is marked a size 40, but has a 52″ chest measurement, placing it squarely in larger territory. It has a 1936 union tag, which places its date of manufacture between 1936 and 1939.  It has wide notch lapels, raglan shoulders, and button cuffs.  There is a chew on the hem near the corner, and some staining to the lining near the label. This is some of the weightiest overcoat material I’ve felt- it really lives up to the “Armorknit” name.
Chest: 26″Length: 47″Center to Cuff: 36″
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Allen Stockman Suit

I got this vintage suit in today. In the pocket was a letter from the original owner’s wife dated 1947. The original owner’s armed services honorable discharge pin is still on the lapel. I’m not clear on whether this suit is pre-war or immediately post-war, but it seems that it hasn’t been worn in 65 years.

If I had just seen the jacket of this, I would never have thought “suit”. The cut is classic sportswear, with a short body, button adjusters on the sides, an open collar and double buttoned waistband. The heavy material puts it squarely into the realm of someone who spends a lot of time out of doors. A real workwear look, especially with the construction of the pockets. Like some leather jackets of the period, there are suit style buttons on the sleeves. I would almost expect some sort of belted or sunburst pleated back on it, but other than the adjusters, it is just plain.
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This Eisenhower style jacket is unlined, with serged seams and a cotton reinforcement panel at the bottom edge.
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Now here’s where things really get interesting. It’s a suit! It has a button fly, wide fancy western style belt loops to accommodate a wide western belt. Watch pocket, and western style pockets.
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Made by Allen Brand
Stockman’s Garments
Denver, CO
Western Made for the Westerner

The jacket still bears the original owner’s ruptured duck discharge pin and American Legion pin
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Details of the Pocket and Cuff
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