1930s belt back Hart Schaffner & Marx overcoat

Posted on November 23, 2014 by Spencer Stewart

This vintage overcoat was made between 1936 and 1938 by Hart Schaffner & Marx and was sold in Bozeman, Montana by Wagner Brothers. It is an extremely rare cut, single breasted, with a belted back. Usually on overcoats these belt-back treatments were reserved for double breasted models. The coat is gray with a subtle plaid. It is half-lined, as was common in the era. The Amalgamated Clothing Workers of America union tag is a rare 1936 variant, which narrows the dating down hugely, as it was replaced by a new tag design in 1939.

Chest (pit to pit): 24-1/2″ (doubled = 49″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 18″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 26-1/2″
Length (base of collar to hem): 45″

1930s Sam Stark half-belt

Posted on November 23, 2014 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271680370513
This jacket was made in the late 1930s-early 1940s and was sold in Cheyenne, Wyoming by Sam Stark. The jacket is a waist length, button front half-belt cossack style, with handwarmer pockets and side adjuster belts. The original buttons probably would have been brown bakelite or corozo, but were replaced sometime in the 1940s with metal military Wyoming state seal buttons. The backs of these buttons are marked “Superior Quality”. The cuffs do up with snap-belt adjusters. Inside one of the pockets I found an empty pack of Kool cigarettes with a 1944 copyright and a series 120 Dewitt Clinton tax stamp, dating the pack to 1950, and also helping set a probable date for the last time this jacket was worn.

Chest (pit to pit): 22″ (doubled = 44″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 18-1/2″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24-1/2″
Length (base of collar to hem): 23″

Ralph Lauren Suede Half-belt leather jacket

Posted on November 18, 2014 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281501850469
This jacket was made by Ralph Lauren under the Polo label. It is made of brown suede leather in style heavily influenced by 1930s half-belt cossack work jackets. The jacket is zipper front, with a straight front yoke, and handwarmer pockets. The back is belted with side adjuster belts. The jacket has a tartan lining. With a 52″ chest, this would best fit someone in the size 46-48 range.

Chest (pit to pit): 26″ (doubled = 52″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 21″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24-1/2″
Length (Base of collar to hem): 28″

1930s Fifth Avenue Year Bonded double breasted overcoat

Posted on November 16, 2014 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271670853068
This vintage overcoat was made in the 1930s and was sold under the Fifth Avenue Year Bonded Clothes label. The coat is a 3×6 double breasted, with flapped pockets and a breast pocket. The back is belted, and the coat is half-lined, with a flannel underlayer to the lining. The coat is made from a heavy boucle wool, giving it a nice textural depth. I can find no wear to the coat, and the rear vent was never opened.

Chest (pit to pit): 23″ (doubled = 46″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 18″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 26″
Length (Base of collar to hem): 47-1/2″

Ralph Lauren reproduction half-belt

Posted on November 16, 2014 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281498532031
This jacket was made by Ralph Lauren under the Polo label. It was made in the USA from black wool in a 1930s half-belt cossack work jacket style. The jacket is zipper front, with handwarmer pockets and a zipper breast pocket. The back is belted and yoked with side adjuster belts. The jacket is unlined. With a 50″ chest, this would best fit someone in the size 44-46 range.

Chest (pit to pit): 25″ (doubled = 50″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 21″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24-1/2″
Length (Base of collar to hem): 28-1/2″

Ralph Lauren reproduction half-belt jacket

Posted on November 12, 2014 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281494822773
This jacket was made by Ralph Lauren under the Polo label. It is made of gray wool in a 1930s half-belt cossack work jacket style. The jacket is zipper front, with handwarmer pockets and a zipper breast pocket. The back is belted and yoked with side adjuster belts. The jacket has a tartan lining. With a 50″ chest, this would best fit someone in the size 44-46 range.

Chest (pit to pit): 25″ (doubled = 50″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 21″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 26″
Length (Base of collar to hem): 29″

Late 1940s Deerskin cossack jacket

Posted on October 27, 2014 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271647952876
This vintage jacket was made in the late 1940s from soft buckskin leather. Going by the unusual details, like the reinforcing stitching at the base of the bi-swing back, it’s safe to say that it was made in Denver, Colorado. The jacket has a Talon zipper front in a transitional style, with a large holed pull, unmarked slider connection and Talon branded stopbox. That helps narrow the dating down considerably, since these Denver produced jackets had their own unique style and did not follow the larger overall fashion trends the way mass produced jackets did. The jacket has flapped pockets with leather buttons, a plain front, bi-swing back, and a seam where there would generally be a half-belt, but which performs the same visual function.

Chest (pit to pit): 21-1/2″ (doubled = 43″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 18″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 25″
Length (Base of collar to hem): 25-1/2″

1940s half-belt leather jacket

Posted on October 20, 2014 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281472895438
This vintage leather jacket was made in the mid to late 1940s. It is made of goatskin, with a pointy collar, buttoned yokes which form the pockets on the front and a scalloped yoke on the back. It has a half-belt back and an action back. The jacket has patch pockets with scalloped pocket flaps, and belted adjuster cuffs. It is fully lined. The jacket has a Talon zipper with a rectangular hole pull and a Talon marked stopbox. The jacket has distinctive leather buttons and is made of goatskin leather. It bears an Amalgamated Garment Workers union label. The jacket is marked on the leather E5 and the size 36.

Chest (pit to pit): 20-1/2″ (doubled = 41″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 19″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 23″
Length (base of collar to hem): 28-1/2″

1930s 10X canvas gun club jacket

Posted on September 8, 2014 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281433526221
This vintage shooting jacket was made in the late 1930s by the 10-X manufacturing company of Des Moines, Iowa. It is made of vat dyed Sanforized army cloth cotton twill. It is a half-belt design, with norfolk-style straps on the front to support the pockets. There are loops for two shells and gun pad reinforcement on the left shoulder. The high buttoning is typical of these earlier production models. The jacket has patches from 1930s-1940s, from the Elkhart Indiana CCC Gunners, the 1941 5th Annual International Wildlife Restoration Shoot, from Remington (25 straight skeet) and from Western (25 straight skeet).

Tagged size: 40
Chest (pit to pit): 22″ (doubled = 44″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 17″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24″
Length (base of collar to hem): 26″

Late 1940s half-belt leather jacket

Posted on July 13, 2014 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281379413806
This vintage leather jacket was made in the late 1940s- early 1950s. It is a surcoat length half-belt design with flapped cargo/side entry handwarmer pockets. The sleeves have scaloped cuffs with fancy buttons. The zippers are all Talon. The lining is shredded.

Chest (pit to pit): 22″ (doubled = 44″)
shoulder to shoulder: 19″
sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 25″
Length (base of collar to hem): 28″

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