1940s John Rissman gabardine windbreaker jacket

Posted on January 12, 2015 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271727711431
This vintage jacket was made in Chicago c.1948 by John Rissman & Son under the Windbreaker label. It is made of a khaki wool gabardine. It has a Talon zipper with a Talon marked stopbox and square cornered slider, which helps to date it. The jacket is a cossack style, with a pleated and belted back and handwarmer pockets. The jacket bears a rare half-scale variant of the union label of the United Garment Workers of America.

Chest (pit to pit): 21″ (doubled = 42″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 17″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 25″
Length (base of collar to hem): 24-1/2″

1940s two tone half-belt gabardine jacket

Posted on January 12, 2015 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281560142544
This vintage jacket was made in the late 1940s. It is made from wool gabardine in a half-belt cossack style, with a zipper front, handwarmer pockets and side belt adjusters. It is fully lined. The zipper is a bell-shaped Conmar zipper of the type used during WWII.

Chest (pit to pit): 22-1/2″ (Doubled = 45″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 19″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 25″
Length (base of collar to hem): 26″

1940s Allen gabardine western cossack jacket

Posted on October 20, 2014 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281472851496
This vintage jacket was made in the late 1940s by the Allen Mfg. Co. of Denver Colorado. While Allen primarily made westernwear, this jacket seems to fit more into the mold of 1940s California sportswear. It is a waist length Cossack style, with pleated patch pockets. Their angled tops wrap around into the buttoned side adjuster belts. There is a single chest pocket with a Conmar chain zipper. The main zipper is a spring loaded Crown with the “two way” teeth developed by them during WWII. It has a bi-swing back.

Chest (pit to pit): 24″ (doubled = 48″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 19″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 25″
Length (Base of collar to hem): 26″

1950s Lockshire gabardine overcoat

Posted on October 20, 2014 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281472843346
This vintage overcoat was made in the 1950s by Lockshire of Minneapolis, Minnesota. It is single breasted, with notch lapels. It has a vented back and slash handwarmer pockets. It is half-lined, as was customary at that point. The jacket has a fantastic label and a 1949 union tag. With a 48″ chest, this will best fit someone who wears a size 42 suit.

Chest (pit to pit): 24″ (doubled = 48″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 19″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 26″
Length (base of collar to hem): 46-1/2″

1950s Hubcraft gabardine overcoat

Posted on September 1, 2014 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281428119156
This vintage overcoat was made in the 1950s under the Hubcraft label for the Lewistown, Montana location of The Hub department store, owned by Joe Alweis. The coat is made of blue gabardine and has wide Bold Look lapels, a three button fly front, cuffed sleeves and a plain, vented back. It is half-lined and has an early variant 1949 ACWofA union tag. With a chest measurement of 46″ and a standard 6″ drop for overcoats, this would best fit someone who wears a size 40.

Chest (pit to pit): 23″ (doubled = 46″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 18″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 25″
Length (base of collar to hem): 45-1/2″

1964 Warner Brothers Cavalry Shirt

Posted on August 15, 2014 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271576032886
This vintage cavalry shirt was made in the 1950s-early 1960s as a film costume for Warner Brothers westerns. The shirt has a strap going from the rear tail to buttons on the front, presumably to keep it tucked in while doing stunts, like the “beaver tails” on old wetsuits or football jerseys. The original brass buttons were removed, as were the shoulder boards, although the mounting hardware and reinforcement for those remains. It was almost definitely used in 1964’s big budget western, “A Distant Trumpet”, which starred Troy Donahue, Suzanne Pleshette and Diane McBain. The shirts in that film are recognizable by their high-cut bibs and full button placket, as opposed to the pullovers favored by the wardrobe departments on other cavalry movies like the John Ford / John Wayne cavalry trilogy.

Chest (pit to pit): 22-1/2″ (doubled – 45″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 18″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24″
Length (base of collar to hem): 27″

Jay Bar Are halfbelt

Posted on March 24, 2014 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281287612435
This vintage jacket was made by Jay-Bar-Are brand. It is made of wool gabardine in a half-belt style.Despite the western brand name, the style itself is essentially a fabric version of the horsehide leather jackets of the 1930s and 1940s. The back is belted, with a center pleat. The pleat has an arrowhead reinforcement stitching detail at its top. There are side adjuster belts with D-rings. The front has handwarmer pockets and a zipped breast pocket. The zippers are all rare Waldes brand, they style produced in the late 1930s and early 1940s.

Staining to lining. Missing second buttons on cuffs. Male zipper tape missing prong and should probably be replaced. Moth bites and wear, concentrated under left arm and on front of jacket by the zipper. See photos

Chest (pit to pit): 22″ (doubled = 44″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 19″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24-1/2″
Length (base of collar to hem): 25″

1940s Zero King Hollywood Jacket

Posted on January 12, 2014 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271370802233
This vintage Hollywood jacket was made in the 1940s by Zero-King. It has a wool gabardine body, and suede leather trim with fringe. It has button adjusters on the sides, and leather cuffs.

Chest (pit to pit): 23″
Shoulder to shoulder: 19″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24″
Length: 28″

Lee TWA / Pratt & Whitney work jacket

Posted on December 16, 2013 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271349078220
This vintage work jacket was made by Lee, better known for its denim jackets and jeans. The jacket is a waist length style, and bears patches for Pratt & Whitney and for TWA (Trans World Airlines). It still has its original zip in quilted liner. The main zipper is a brass Talon. It has bi-swing shoulder, reinforced elbows, slash handwarmer pockets and adjuster tabs on the waistband.

Chest (pit to pit): 24-1/2″
Shoulder to shoulder: 19″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24-1/2″
Length: 24″

1950s Hell on Wheels Motorcycle Club Jacket

Posted on October 26, 2013 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271306503829
This vintage jacket was made in the 1950s by Peters Sportswear. It is made of black gabardine with yellow piping on the collar, sleeves and pockets. The original owner was a member of the “Hell on Wheels” motorcycle club, when it was still a sanctioned AMA club. The original owner’s name, “Dan” is chainstitched in yellow thread on the chest. It looks like the name was originally longer (Danny?), but that stitches were picked out. The chest also bears a American Motorcyclist Association patch and the club name, “Hell on Wheels”. Somewhat enigmatically, the jacket also has a football letter, “S” stitched on. The cuffs have dragon liberty cuffs sewn to the outside for a bit of extra flair. The jacket has a brass Serval zipper with a pin lock

Chest (pit to pit): 24″
Shoulder to Shoulder: 19″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 23″
Length: 23″

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