1940s Allen gabardine western cossack jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281472851496
This vintage jacket was made in the late 1940s by the Allen Mfg. Co. of Denver Colorado. While Allen primarily made westernwear, this jacket seems to fit more into the mold of 1940s California sportswear. It is a waist length Cossack style, with pleated patch pockets. Their angled tops wrap around into the buttoned side adjuster belts. There is a single chest pocket with a Conmar chain zipper. The main zipper is a spring loaded Crown with the “two way” teeth developed by them during WWII. It has a bi-swing back.

Chest (pit to pit): 24″ (doubled = 48″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 19″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 25″
Length (Base of collar to hem): 26″

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1930s Pritzker Air-O-Coat leather cossack jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281350510684
This vintage leather jacket was made c.1936-1937 by A. Pritzker & Sons, Inc. of Boston, MA. The jacket is a Cossack style, with a fancy belted back. The 3/4 zip with 1/4 button detailing, borrowed from “Gaucho” style shirts of the period, enjoyed a brief stint of popularity in 1936-1937 before falling out of favor. Pritzker & Sons was owned by Aaron Pritzker and had a factory at 1020 Washington Street, Boston, MA. They are probably now best known for their USN G-1 flight jackets, although prior to WWII, they were a prolific maker of civilian styles. This one was sold as the “Air-O-Coat”, conjuring up the romantic imagery of 1930s aviators.

The jacket has an early Talon Hookless style grommet zipper.. The jacket is lightweight and partially lined, as is typical of these early windbreaker styles. The shoulder yoke is lined, as are the cuffs. It has a half-belt back with one of the fanciest pleated back styles I’ve seen. Pockets are D-style due to the unlined construction.
The jacket was bought by Bucky Wadon around 1937. Wadon played football, hockey and baseball during the 1930s and served in WWII.
With a 42″ chest measurement, this would best fit someone who wears a size 36 or 38 jacket. The sleeves are uncommonly long for most jackets I’ve found from this era, perfect for the taller guy. The leather is still soft and supple and the jacket is still very wearable.

Chest (pit to pit): 21″ (doubled = 42″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 18″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 25-1/2″
Length (base of collar to hem): 20″

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1950s Abercrombie & Fitch leather utility jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271509482877
This vintage leather jacket was made in the late ’40s-early 1950s and was sold by Abercrombie & Fitch, back in the days when it was an outfitter of the highest caliber. The jacket appears to have begun life all those years ago as russet brown, but has been worn and aged to the wonderful color it is now. The jacket is a cossack style, about as minimalist as they come. It has handwarmer pockets, a one piece back and side adjuster belts. The cuffs have buttoned adjusters. The zip front does up with a Talon zipper, of the type which began production in the late ’40s and were the norm throughout the 1950s.

Chest (pit to pit): 23″ (doubled = 46″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 20″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24-1/2″
Length (base of collar to hem): 25-1/2″

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Ralph Lauren linesman jacket reproduction

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271469042655
This jacket was made by Ralph Lauren in 2006 as a sample. It is mid 1930s utility jacket style, termed by RL as a “Linesman’s Jacket”. Like originals, it has curved, slanted patch pockets and a zipper breast pocket. It has side adjuster belts with deco floral patterned buckles. There is a buttoned tab at the waistband. There is a Conmar grommet zipper, in the style of the original 1930s hardware. Cuffs are lined with corduroy, and the jacket is unlined. The buttons have been replaced with original 1930s catseye buttons.

Chest (pit to pit): 23″
Shoulder to shoulder: 19″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24-1/2″
Length (base of collar to hem): 23″

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1930s Grommet Zipper half-belt leather jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281272035995
This vintage leather jacket was made in the mid 1930s. It is made from capeskin leather, rough side out. As was typical of these early-mid 1930s lightweight half-belt windbreaker styles, this one is unlined. It has an riveted “grommet” Talon zipper, a style which was produced from the early-mid 1930s, before being joined, then replaced by the deco “sunburst” style stopbox. The slider is an early style, with rays on the slider, a small hole puller, and an attachment section which is more oval shaped than those produced later in the 1930s. The jacket is a waist length Cossack style, and has a fancy pleated, belted back with side adjuster belts.

Chest (pit to pit): 21″
Shoulder to shoulder: 16-3/4″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 26″
Length (base of collar to hem): 21″

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AT Hendrick 1940s buckskin half-belt leather jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271244469421
This vintage leather jacket was made in the 1940s by A.T. Hendrick. It is made of soft, high quality buckskin leather, in a button front waist-length half-belt style. The buttons are leather “football” knot style. It has fancy bellows patch pockets, and an action back. The chest pocket has a Talon chain zipper of the type used in the 1940s.

A bit about the maker: Allie T. Hendricks was born on January 27, 1896. He worked as a clothes cleaner through the 1920s and into the 1930s. In 1936, he opened his own tailor shop in the one bedroom house at 1796 Trenton St., Denver, CO which he shared with his wife, Marie. Early directory listings indicate he produced leather jackets exclusively. Later ones use the broader term “leather goods”. Like many small western leather shops, it seems he specialized in buckskin.
There is a bit of confusion over the name – his own labels read “AT Hendrick” (no S), but his directory listings and social security records spell it “Hendricks”. He died in early 1981, aged 84.

Chest: 21″ (doubled = 42″)
Shoulder to Shoulder: 17″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 25-1/2″
Length: 27″

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1939

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The home where Hendricks produced his leather jackets

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