Mid 1930s Hyde Park overcoat

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281263922267
This vintage overcoat was made by Hyde Park Clothes sometime between 1936 and 1938, and was sold by one of the Zions Cooperative Mercantile Institution (ZCMI) Stores. The coat is made of brown plaid wool. It is double breasted, with wonderful brown buttons. It has raglan shoulders, and a plain back. The coat is half lined, and has great design on the labels. It bears a 1936 ACWofA union label, which nails down the date.

Chest (pit to pit): 21″
Center of collar to cuff (due to raglan shoulders): 34-1/2″ (comparable to about a 25″ sleeve with regular shoulders)
Length (base of collar to hem): 47″

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Parker’s western blanket coat

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281263906903
This vintage jacket was made in the late 1940s or 1950s by Parkers of 200 N. Center Street, Reno, Nevada. It is their Mr. Windsor model. Made from gray wool, it has a black stripe, reminiscent of Hudson’s Bay point blanket coats. Unlike those, however, the stripe is a separate piece of wool. There are fancy western yokes on the front and back, and pleats with contrasting black wool inside to really make them pop. The jacket has peak lapels, square tails, and a full lining.

Tagged Size: 44R
Chest (pit to pit): 24″
Shoulder to shoulder: 19″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 25″
Length (base of collar to hem): 32″

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1940s Maine Guide Hudson’s Bay Point Blanket mackinaw coat

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271397856838
This vintage coat was made in the USA by Congress under the Maine Guide Sportswear label. It is made from English-made Hudson’s Bay point blanket material, one of the highest quality and most expensive wools on the market for this type of coat at that point. These coats were most popular in red and black stripe, and in multi-stripe (green red, yellow and indigo stripes on a white background). The green and black is rare.
The style of the Hudson’s Bay label and the (R) symbol on the Maine Guide label help to date this to the late 1940s, although the overall pattern of the coat belongs more to the 1930s. I like the way the Maine Guide coats use the pattern of the blanket to accentuate the details of their coats. The “points” of the blanket are right up front. The sleeves are defined by the stripe, as are the handwarmer pockets and the buttoned sleeve adjuster belts. The hip pocket flaps contrast against the main stripe. Some manufacturers of point blanket coats merely tailored their standard mackinaw pattern in a different material. Maine Guide went the extra step to take full advantage of everything the iconic Canadian fabric had to offer. It makes sense, as the company had a lot of experience with blanket coats. In the early 1930s, Maine Guide produced a model with a double breasted chest and a zippered bottom. A really unique look.
This coat is double breasted and belted, and has a stylish peaked collar that I’ve only seen on blanket coats made by Maine Guide. Another unique feature to Maine Guide is the bottom hem, which uses the edge of the blanket, instead of having a bottom seam. The coat is unlined, which is more typical of pre-war patterns. The blanket wool is thick and has a long nap, which is also more typical of earlier production blankets.

Chest (pit to pit): 21″ (doubled = 42″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 18″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 25″
Length (base of collar to hem): 34″

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1920s / 1930s Olympic Cap

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271397653107
This vintage cap was made by Knox hats in the late 1920s or early 1930s as part of the uniform of the United States Olympic team. It’s difficult to say with 100% certainty, but this looks consistent with what was worn at either the 1928 St. Moritz or the 1932 Lake Placid games. It is made from white felt in a traditional flat-cap style, with an embroidered US Olympic shield crest consistent with the early games. The cap has a cream colored leather sweatband of the type typical of the late 1920s and early 1930s. The deep embossing is also typical of what Knox was producing in this era. The style of brim is something I have never seen before. Usually the brim on these flat caps is a separate piece, usually with a snap on the top. This is interfaced inside for a degree of stiffness, then decoratively stitched, presumably so that the cap can be rolled up and stowed easily. There is a remnant of the original size tag, but not enough to tell the size. The sweatband measures 22″ in circumference.

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WWII Richmond Bros. shawl mackinaw

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271397626926
This vintage Officer’s Short Overcoat / Shawl Collar Mackinaw was made in 1942 by high-end clothier Richman Brothers under contract for the US Army. This style coat was a direct descendant of the shawl collar workwear mackinaws of the 1910s-1930s, and from the m-1926 mackinaw worn by the Army and the Civilian Conservation Corps before the war. It is a double breasted style, with a broad shawl collar, epaulettes, and a belted waist. The coat is fully lined with an interior breast pocket.

Chest (pit to pit): 21″ (doubled = 42″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 19″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24-1/2″
Length (base of collar to hem): 33″

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Gordon & Ferguson Field & Stream sheeplined mackinaw

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271397591682
This vintage coat was made in the 1930s by Gordon & Ferguson of St. Paul, Minnesota. At the time, this would have been sold as a “sheelpined coat”, though the term “shawl collar mackinaw” has come to also encompass this style. It has a broad mouton shawl collar, and is 3/4 lined with sheepskin. Consistent with the early dating, the sleeves are lined in a blanket material. The pockets all have triangular leather reinforcements at the corners. The leather loop closure for the buttons, as opposed to corded loops or buttonholes seems to be a uniquely Gordon and Ferguson detail. I have only ever seen it on coats made by them and by Guiterman Bros. after the G&F buyout in the late 1920s. See that Guiterman Town & Country here: https://vintagehaberdashers.com/2013/12/19/town-and-country-sheeplined-coat/

Chest (pit to pit): 21″ (doubled = 42″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 20″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 26″
Length (Base of collar to hem): 34″

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1940s Patrick Duluth zipper mackinaw

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271378671133
This vintage hunting coat was made by the F.A. Patrick Woolen Mills of Duluth, Minnesota in the late 1940s. It is an evolution / update of the traditional mackinaw form, made by the originators of the mackinaw style. It has a zipper front, with flapped breast and hip pockets, and slash handwarmers on the chest. There is rear access to an internal game pouch. The coat has a mustard colored lining of the same sort used by Woolrich on their line of hunting coats. The main zip is of the style used in the mid 1940s, with a square cornered puller. The game pocket zippers are of the rounded corner type which began to be used around 1947. This overlap likely puts the date around 1947 or 1948.

Chest (pit to pit): 24″ (doubled = 48″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 20″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 25-1/2″
Length: 27″

A bit about the company, from a history piece I wrote for “The Fedora Lounge”
: The F.A. Patrick Company, proprietors of the Patrick-Duluth Woolen Mills of Duluth, Minnesota were responsible for taking the Mackinaw coat out of lumber camps of western Canada and introducing them to students, workmen and athletes across the United States. Early on, the Patrick Company were jobbers, making dry goods, primarily for clients in the Northwest of the United States in Canada. In 1901, Patrick began buying fabric from a Scandinavian mackinaw cloth factory in Fosston, Minnesota. In 1906, seeing potential, Patrick bought that factory and began making their own Mackinaw cloth, eventually becoming one of its leading producers. The fabric and the coats made from it were popular with miners, fur trappers, lumberjacks and hunters.

In 1912, Patrick launched a new, refined mackinaw design. It was double breasted, belted and sported a collar described in the ads of the period as a “nansen” collar. Though the term also existed then, we now refer to this style as a shawl collar. The coat was 35″ long and was available in 24 and 32 oz wool mackinaw cloth, in a wide variety of colors. Salesman Harry Harrington began to pitch the Patrick Mackinaw to clothiers in college towns. “It was not long after that that mackinaws became a fad with students generally, and as the college student invariably sets the styles for young men’s clothing, it quickly spread over the whole country”. The early mackinaw trend was marketed in a similar way to the current workwear trend, trading on the rugged associations of the workers for whom the garment was originally designed. The mackinaw fad boomed, and shortly, a number of other manufacturers sprung onto the scene, producing mackinaws of varying quality from a variety of cloths. Large quantities of Patrick mackinaws were sold through such high end stores as Brooks Brothers, Rogers Peet, Wannamaker, Abercrombie and Fitch, Brokaw Brothers, and A. Raymond.
It is around this 1912-1913 period where the name “Mackinaw” begins to be more associated with the short, double breasted, shawl collar style, and less with the mackinaw cloth material from which it was made. The fad lasted about a year and a half. Patrick could not keep up with the growing demand caused by the collegiate fad, and the inferior fabric quality of some competitors led to the downfall of this first-wave craze.

Seeing the end of the craze, Patrick-Duluth re-branded its mackinaw once again, refining its pattern and marketing it to farmers, children, hunters and outdoorsmen, workers, and sportsmen. Its durability, warmth, low price compared to comparable overcoats or sheeplined coats, made it an easy sell to these markets. Alongside sheeplined canvas coats, Patrick Mackinaws became the de-facto winter coat of railroad employees. To further expand the market, patterns were made for men and women, boys and girls. Patrick intensified their national advertising, placing ads in the Saturday Evening Post, Country Gentleman, Farm Journal, Woman’s World, American Boy, Youth’s Companion, Boy’s Life, and many more. The name of the product was shortened from “Patrick-Duluth Woolen Mill Mackinaw” to simply “Patrick”, in a bid to make their brand name the generic trade name on the market, thereby foiling the business of competitors. Their slogan “Bigger than Weather” was penned by Elbert Hubbard. Ads were illustrated by Peter Newell and Clare Briggs. In the years between 1911 and 1914, Patrick had quadrupled its production, expanding from their two story mill to a six story mill on Duluth habror, a garment factory in Duluth, and knitting and spinning mills in Mankato, MN.

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Brown and Camel Hudson’s Bay point blanket coat

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271378596257
This vintage mackinaw coat was made by the Hudson’s Bay Company in the 1940s from their iconic point blankets. This is a particularly rare model, made in a tan point blanket, instead of the more typical red and black or multi-stripe. It has the classic mackinaw cut: double breasted, belted, with patch pockets on the hips and handwarmers on the chest. The lining of the coat is a transitional style, which helps date it. Generally, mackinaw coats like this made in the 1920s and 1930s were completely unlined. In the 1940s, half linings like this one has started to come into fashion. By the 1950s, most were fully lined. The original owner’s name. “G. Lasker” is written in the lining.

Chest (pit to pit): 22″
Shoulder to shoulder: 18″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 25-3/4″
Length: 34″

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Canadian army Mackinaw

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271371781839

This vintage mackinaw was made in 1952 for the Canadian army. Stylistically, it is almost identical to civilian Sheeplined mackinaws of the 1920s-1940s. It is, however, made of tougher stuff than most civilian (or US army) mackinaws of this style. The canvas shell is extremely heavy and rugged. The waist belt is much wider than is typical, and is has keeper loops to secure it to the belt loops so that it is not lost, as so often happens. The coat is fully lined in blue green pile, which is less fragile than the sheepskin linings in these can be this many years on. The sleeves are also lined in this material, and have extra long storm cuffs. The coat was made by the Scott Leather Goods Co. of Montreal, and is tagged a size 40.

Tagged size: 40
Chest (pit to pit): 25″ (doubled = 50″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 21″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff):25-1/2″
Length: 36″

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m1926 army Mackinaw

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271371253018
This vintage coat is an extremely rare pre-war m-1926 army mackinaw (short overcoat). It is double breasted, with a wide shawl collar and large flapped patch pockets. As was typical of early shawl collared mackinaw coats, both military and civilian, it is unlined. The updated version of this coat issued in WWII featured a lining. This pre-war pattern was commonly seen on Civilian Conservation Corps enrollees. Based on the 43″ chest measurement, this would fit best in the 36 to 38 size range.

Chest (pit to pit): 21-1/2″ (doubled = 43″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 16-1/2″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 25″
Length: 33″

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