Mid 1940s Albert Richard leather jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271352480738
This vintage leather jacket was made by Albert Richard in the mid 1940s. It is made of “Chevro-Kid” goatskin. This trade name was typical of Albert Richards’s naming schemes during WWII and shortly after, playing of military terminology. The company could back this up- they produced flight jackets for the army and navy during the war. This jacket is made of the same goatskin used for these Navy flight jacket contracts. The jacket is a hip length style, with flapped saddlebag patch pockets , a straight yoke on the front, and a plain back. It was originally belted, but as with many jackets of this style, the belt is long since missing. The zipper is a Talon, with a mid 1940s stopbox and a slightly earlier style slider (these combinations were common at this period). The zipper is attached in the “surcoat” style, , where the end of the zip is attached to a triangle of leather which is free from the front of the jacket.

Chest (pit to pit): 21-1/2″ (doubled = 43″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 19″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 23″
Length: 29-1/2″

A bit about Albert Richard, from an article I wrote for “The Art of Vintage Leather Jackets”.
Fried-Ostermann was founded c.1902 as a glove manufacturer. They bought out their competitor, Price Gloves, and relocated production of that company’s products to their original factory, located at 617-645 Reed Street, Milwaukee, WI. By 1915, the company had gained a partner, and was known as the Fried, Ostermann, Meyer Co, but that looks to only have lasted until 1917. As the company grew, they relocated to 1645 S. 2nd Street, Milwaukee, WI. Fried-Ostermann diversified out of gloves and into outerwear in the late 1920s with the formation of a new division of the company, called Albert Richard. The leather jackets, mackinaws, overcoats and sportswear produced by Albert Richard would soon come to eclipse the glove-making side of the company. Pre-war advertising stressed health and sports, with endorsements from college football players. These ads also talk about bringing items of clothing which were previously thought of as workwear, like mackinaws and leather jackets, into the realm of ordinary streetwear, citing their comfort and durability.
During WWII, the Albert Richard factory made A-2 (contract AC 23383), M-422A (contract 1406A), M444A and M445A flight jackets under the name of their parent company, Fried-Ostermann. They advertised leather jackets, overcoats and sportswear heavily during WWII, giving their jackets model names like the “Spitfire” and the “Meteor”. During the war, the company gave away wall-sized posters showing a range of american military airplanes. 850 workers were employed by Albert r in 1946, with plans to hire another 400. The company was one of the first to use fiberglass insulation in coats, a technology borrowed from b-29 bombers. Sheepskin collared “storm coats” became a signature model after the war.
President of Fried-Ostermann, Richard Fried, sold their Albert Richard Division to the Drybak corporation of Binghampton, NY in late 1952. Drybak, a maker of canvas hunting clothing was looking to diversify their line. In the deal, they got the licensing, branding, patterns, dealership network, but other than the Vice President and designer for Albert Richard, all of the employees and equipment stayed at the plant in Milwaukee. Fried-Osterman re-focused the attention of their plant on the production of gloves, and on producing leather jackets under house labels for mail order and department stores.
Starting in 1953, under Drybak’s ownership, Albert Richard clothing was once again produced, this time under contract at a factory in New Jersey, which Drybak declined to name. The plan at that time was to have production moved to New York by 1954. Labels were changed in this period to read “Albert Richard by Drybak”. In 1955, Drybak acquired the Martin Mfg. Co. in Martin, TN. They closed their Binghamton operations in that same year and relocated their hunting clothing manufacturing and their Albert Richard division to the Tennessee plant to take advantage of the lower labor costs in the south. Production was low, and this new plant closed almost as soon as it opened.

 photo IMG_0087.jpg

 photo IMG_0088.jpg

 photo IMG_0089.jpg

 photo IMG_0092.jpg

 photo IMG_0093.jpg

 photo IMG_0094.jpg

 photo IMG_0095.jpg

 photo IMG_0096.jpg

 photo IMG_0097.jpg

1920s Carss Mackinaw coat

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271352494287
This vintage coat was made by Carss Mackinaw, probably in the 1920s. This is a rare version. Most were made in striped point blanket material, with four patch pockets and a belted back. This one is made from a wool plaid. It has a squared off shawl collar, with patch breast pockets and handwarmers in a shape which would eventually inspire the D-Pocket found on motorcycle jackets. There are access flaps to an internal game pocket, and adjuster belts, mounted high on the back. The shoulders have pinked capes.

Chest (pit to pit): 24″ (doubled = 48″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 18-1/2″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24″
Length: 30″

A bit about the company, from a history piece I wrote for “The Fedora Lounge”: Carss Mackinaw made blanket coats in Orillia, Ontario from at least 1897. Their signature model was single breasted with caped shoulders and a squared-off shawl collar. They are most commonly seen in red, green, and khaki, all with a blanket stripe at the base. The fabric used in these coats was advertised as a whopping 44oz, and was sourced from a variety of trade blanket manufacturers, including Hudson’s Bay and the Bird Woolen Mills. They were advertised as “The Only Genuine Mackinaw Made In Canada”. They were retailed by the Hudson’s Bay Company, as well as other stores.

 photo IMG_0035-1.jpg

 photo IMG_0036-3.jpg

 photo IMG_0116.jpg

 photo IMG_0127.jpg

 photo IMG_0126.jpg

 photo IMG_0110.jpg

 photo IMG_0111.jpg

 photo IMG_0112.jpg

 photo IMG_0113.jpg

 photo IMG_0117.jpg

 photo IMG_0118.jpg

 photo IMG_0120.jpg

 photo IMG_0121.jpg

 photo IMG_0122.jpg

 photo IMG_0123.jpg

 photo IMG_0124.jpg

1940s Sportsman’s vest

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271324386244
This vintage fly fishing vest was made in the 1930s or 1940s. It is similar in cut and style to two made by Remington under the DriDux label which I recently sold, but no longer has a tag, so I can’t say for certain. It has a three button front, with two large wraparound cargo pockets. There is a flapped breast pocket. The other side has a felt pad to store flies in. Most have a simple piece of sheepskin, but this one snaps closed for greater storage and protection. The vest has a fly rod loop on one side, and a metal ring to attach gear to on the other.

Also see: https://vintagehaberdashers.com/2013/11/09/rem-dridux/

https://vintagehaberdashers.com/2013/10/26/hunting-and-fishing-jacket/

Chest (pit to pit): 22″ (doubled = 44″)
Length: 21-1/2″

 photo IMG_0062-1.jpg

 photo IMG_0063-1.jpg

 photo IMG_0064-1.jpg

 photo IMG_0066-2.jpg

 photo IMG_0067-1.jpg

 photo IMG_0068-1.jpg

 photo IMG_0069-2.jpg

 photo IMG_0070-2.jpg

 photo IMG_0071-2.jpg

 photo IMG_0072-1.jpg

 photo IMG_0075.jpg

 photo IMG_0076.jpg

1930s Red Head Brand hunting coat

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281208719396
This vintage canvas hunting coat was made in the mid 1930s by Red Head brand, a premier maker of hunting and outdoorsman’s sportswear at the time. This one has a heavy canvas shell, with a corduroy collar and corduroy lined cuffs. The shoulders are reinforced. With a setup similar to an early 1920s Filson coat, https://vintagehaberdashers.com/2013/10/19/1910s-1920s-filson-canvas-jacket/, This coat has a double breast pocket (a small pocket overtop a larger one, which share the same flap). The hip pockets are double round patch pockets which share the same extra large flap. These pockets are leather reinforced. There is an internal game pocket, accessible from the back, or from the inside. The game pocket opens with an early bell-shaped Talon zipper, which helps date the coat. Buttons are Red Head branded. The coat was originally sold in Detroit by the Tool Shop Company.

Chest (pit to pit): 26″ (doubled = 52″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 22″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24-1/2″
Length (base of collar to hem): 30″

 photo IMG_0001.jpg

 photo IMG_0002.jpg

 photo IMG_0004.jpg

 photo IMG_0005.jpg

 photo IMG_0006.jpg

 photo IMG_0007.jpg

 photo IMG_0008.jpg

 photo IMG_0009.jpg

 photo IMG_0011.jpg

 photo IMG_0012.jpg

 photo IMG_0014.jpg

 photo IMG_0015.jpg

 photo IMG_0017.jpg

 photo IMG_0018.jpg

 photo IMG_0019.jpg

 photo IMG_0020.jpg

 photo IMG_0021.jpg

 photo IMG_0022.jpg

1937 Albert Richard Hudson’s Bay point blanket coat

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271323676616
This vintage mackinaw coat was made around 1937 by Albert Richard. It is tailored from English made Hudson’s Bay Company point blankets. When this coat was made, a standard Albert Richard mackinaw coat, made in either solid colors or in plaids, sold for $12.50. An upgrade to this red and black Hudson’s Bay blanket fabric raised the price to a whopping $22.50. Period advertisements identify this model as “The Souix”. As with many belted coats, this one lost the belt years ago. One belt loop was removed, the other partially so. The coat has classic mackinaw styling- double breasted with handwarmer pockets on the chest, and flapped hip pockets. As with most early mackinaws, this coat is unlined, relying on high quality heavy wool blanket material for warmth. I wear this same model mackinaw from about a year earlier as my winter coat, and trust me, it will keep you warm all winter long.

Chest (pit to pit): 22″
Shoulder to shoulder: 19″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 25″
Length: 30″

A bit about Albert Richard, from an article I wrote for “The Art of Vintage Leather Jackets”.
Fried-Ostermann was founded c.1902 as a glove manufacturer. They bought out their competitor, Price Gloves, and relocated production of that company’s products to their original factory, located at 617-645 Reed Street, Milwaukee, WI. By 1915, the company had gained a partner, and was known as the Fried, Ostermann, Meyer Co, but that looks to only have lasted until 1917. As the company grew, they relocated to 1645 S. 2nd Street, Milwaukee, WI. Fried-Ostermann diversified out of gloves and into outerwear in the late 1920s with the formation of a new division of the company, called Albert Richard. The leather jackets, mackinaws, overcoats and sportswear produced by Albert Richard would soon come to eclipse the glove-making side of the company. Pre-war advertising stressed health and sports, with endorsements from college football players. These ads also talk about bringing items of clothing which were previously thought of as workwear, like mackinaws and leather jackets, into the realm of ordinary streetwear, citing their comfort and durability.
During WWII, the Albert Richard factory made A-2 (contract AC 23383), M-422A (contract 1406A), M444A and M445A flight jackets under the name of their parent company, Fried-Ostermann. They advertised leather jackets, overcoats and sportswear heavily during WWII, giving their jackets model names like the “Spitfire” and the “Meteor”. During the war, the company gave away wall-sized posters showing a range of american military airplanes. 850 workers were employed by Albert r in 1946, with plans to hire another 400. The company was one of the first to use fiberglass insulation in coats, a technology borrowed from b-29 bombers. Sheepskin collared “storm coats” became a signature model after the war.
President of Fried-Ostermann, Richard Fried, sold their Albert Richard Division to the Drybak corporation of Binghampton, NY in late 1952. Drybak, a maker of canvas hunting clothing was looking to diversify their line. In the deal, they got the licensing, branding, patterns, dealership network, but other than the Vice President and designer for Albert Richard, all of the employees and equipment stayed at the plant in Milwaukee. Fried-Osterman re-focused the attention of their plant on the production of gloves, and on producing leather jackets under house labels for mail order and department stores.
Starting in 1953, under Drybak’s ownership, Albert Richard clothing was once again produced, this time under contract at a factory in New Jersey, which Drybak declined to name. The plan at that time was to have production moved to New York by 1954. Labels were changed in this period to read “Albert Richard by Drybak”. In 1955, Drybak acquired the Martin Mfg. Co. in Martin, TN. They closed their Binghamton operations in that same year and relocated their hunting clothing manufacturing and their Albert Richard division to the Tennessee plant to take advantage of the lower labor costs in the south.

 

 photo IMG_0047.jpg

 photo IMG_0048.jpg

 photo IMG_0049.jpg

 photo IMG_0050.jpg

 photo IMG_0051.jpg

 photo IMG_0052.jpg

 photo IMG_0054-1.jpg

 photo 193701Stitch.jpg

 photo 193705Stitch.jpg

 photo tumblr_mte3iyxiLw1rciqtio1_1280.jpg

 photo tumblr_mte3iyxiLw1rciqtio2_1280.jpg

1946 Albert Richard blanket coat

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281208760052
This vintage wool jacket was made c. 1946 by Albert Richard. It is interlined with “Spun Sun” fiberglass insulation, pioneered by Albert Richard immediately after WWII. This model coat matches the button front surcoats sold immediately after WWII. This is the early style “Spun Sun” fabric, before the introduction of the (R) symbol in 1947. Albert Richard was sold and relocated in 1952, closing shortly thereafter. This coat has a three button front, a broad collar and two flapped hip pockets. While earlier coats by Albert Richard were made of Hudson’s Bay Company blanket fabric, with the advent of the miracle “Spun Sun” insulation, they could use lighter weight wools from other woolen mills to achieve the same level of warmth. This one has a three stripe pattern, with a broader central stripe.

Chest (pit to pit): 24″ (doubled = 48″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 19″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24″
Length: 30″

 photo IMG_0040.jpg

 photo IMG_0041.jpg

 photo IMG_0043.jpg

 photo IMG_0044.jpg

 photo IMG_0046.jpg

 photo 1946.jpeg

 photo 194601Stitch.jpg

Fritz Huckel fedora

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271323757917
This vintage fedora was made in Weilheim, Western Germany by Fritz Huckel Hutmacher, and was sold by the Star Clothing Company, Inc., of Yakima, Washington. It is a fur felt “ultra” velour, with a tall crown and a wide overwelt. It has a nicely detailed back bow. The liner has a fancy stitching detail, and lists all the gold medals won by the hatmaker. It has a brown leather reeded sweatband, with a taped rear seam and fancy decorative ribbon.

Size: 7-1/8
Brim Width: 2-1/2″
Ribbon Width: 1-3/4″
Crown Height: 5-3/4″

 photo IMG_0299.jpg

 photo IMG_0300.jpg

 photo IMG_0301.jpg

 photo IMG_0302.jpg

 photo IMG_0304.jpg

 photo IMG_0305.jpg

 photo IMG_0307.jpg

 photo IMG_0308.jpg

 photo IMG_0309.jpg

 photo IMG_0310.jpg

 photo IMG_0311.jpg

 photo IMG_0313.jpg

 photo IMG_0314.jpg

M1926 shawl collar mackinaw

This vintage jacket is a prewar version of a US army shawl collar mackinaw. The most notable difference from the wartime version is that this is unlined. There are twin breast pockets inside, as well as taped seams. The coat has large patch pockets, with buttoned flaps. The sleeves have buttoned adjuster belts. The jacket has a slimmer, slightly longer cut than the wartime version. This one is pressed to roll to the second button, accentuating that length. It was made by the Lilley Ames company of Columbus, Ohio, and issued to a “Jason Bower”. The name “O. Spencer” is visible directly above, written faintly in pencil. This would best fit someone in the size 36 to 38 range.

Chest (pit to pit): 21″
Shoulder to Shoulder: 17″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 25-1/2″
Length: 36″

 photo IMG_0026.jpg
 photo IMG_0027.jpg
 photo IMG_0029.jpg
 photo IMG_0030.jpg
 photo IMG_0031.jpg
 photo IMG_0035.jpg

1910s Montgomery Ward cowboy hat

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271318501864
This vintage western hat was made in the 1910s or 1920s, and was sold by Montgomery Ward. It is made of black fur felt, with a pencil curled brim, and a narrow ribbon with a western style bow. It has a tall crown, creased with a center dent and front pinches, though the felt is such that it can easily be re-creased as you so choose. The hat is unlined and has a brown leather sweatband, embossed with an early Montgomery Ward crest. The reorder tag, indicating the hat is a size 7, is of a generic style and doesn’t offer many clues as to who made the hat for Ward’s.

Size: 7
Brim Width: 3″
Ribbon Width: 3/8″
Crown Height:5-5/8″

 photo IMG_0254.jpg

 photo IMG_0255.jpg

 photo IMG_0257.jpg

 photo IMG_0258.jpg

 photo IMG_0259.jpg

 photo IMG_0260.jpg

 photo IMG_0261.jpg

 photo IMG_0262.jpg

 photo IMG_0263.jpg

 photo IMG_0264.jpg

Mid 1940s Woolrich Mackinaw

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281204865336
This vintage Woolrich coat was made in the mid 1940s in Woolrich, Pennsylvania. After extensive research and collecting, I have put together a comprehensive guide to dating the labels and details of these coats. This style label, with a skinny sheep, was used in the later days of WWII through until about 1947. After 1947, the logo was changed with a new design of sheep, and to include the (R) symbol. Still produced today, this model of Woolrich mackinaw has changed very little since the turn of the last century, so details must be relied upon to give accurate dating. The label is the big one, definitively pinning it down to the mid 1940s. The jacket features the early style asymmetric breast pockets. Woolrich switched over to two large breast pockets in the 1960s. This coat has a rarely seen style of snap for this type of coat, a plain design made by United Carr, used during the war years, transitional between the pre-war “meander” style and the post-war ones branded with the Woolrich name.

The coat has a large, rounded collar with a buttoned throat latch. It has covered buttons save for the top. All the pockets have snaps. The vertical pockets on the front pass through to the internal game pouch, which can also be accessed from the rear. The coat has a full mustard colored lining.

Chest (pit to pit): 24″
Shoulder to shoulder: 20″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 25″
Length: 29″

 photo IMG_0190.jpg

 photo IMG_0191.jpg

 photo IMG_0192.jpg

 photo IMG_0194.jpg

 photo IMG_0195.jpg

 photo IMG_0196.jpg

 photo IMG_0197.jpg

 photo IMG_0198.jpg

 photo IMG_0199.jpg

 photo IMG_0200.jpg

 photo guide.jpg