1960s Suede Californian leather Norfolk jacket

Posted on July 13, 2014 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281384906338
This vintage leather jacket was made by the California Sportswear Company of Los Angeles, California under the Californian label. It takes heavy stylistic cues from the Norfolk jackets of the 1910s and 1920s. The jacket has two breast pocket flaps with chest pleats, a full attached belt, flapped hip pockets, and a pleated back with a scaloped yoke. The jacket is fully lined.

Chest (pit to pit): 23″ (doubled = 46″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 19″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24-1/2″
Length (base of collar to hem): 30″

Glen Isle two tone sweatervest

Posted on July 13, 2014 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271548021785
This vintage sweatervest was made in Canada for Penmans and was sold under the Glen Isle Sportswear label. It has a brown and cream body with brown trim and back.

Tagged size: 44
Chest (pit to pit): 22″ (doubled = 44″)

1940s Pendleton half-belt cossack jacket

Posted on July 13, 2014 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281379399140
This vintage half-belt jacket was made by the Pendleton Woolen Mills of Pendleton, Oregon and was tailored in California. It is a classic half-belt cossack jacket design, with a Talon zipper front, zipped breast pocket and slash handwarmer pockets. The side belt adjusters are mounted lower than the belt, in the manner of Hercules leather halfbelts of the mid to late 1930s. The style of Talon zipper, with the square hole in the puller and the Talon name on the stopbox place the date of manufacture of the jacket to just after WWII. The (R) symbol on the Pendleton label, combined with the zipper designs narrow it down to about 1947.

Chest (pit to pit): 22″ (doubled = 44″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 19″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24-1/2″
Length (base of collar to hem): 26″

Black Bear Brand cruiser jacket

Posted on July 13, 2014 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281379428091
This vintage cruiser jacket was made in the 1930s by Black Bear Brand, a high-end outdoor outfitter and workwear manufacturer from Seattle, Washington. The jacket has a four pocket front, an internal game pocket with rear access and an inside pocket. In the pocket is a faded United Garment Workers of America union label.

Chest (pit to pit): 22″
Shoulder to shoulder: 18″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 23-1/2″
Length (base of collar to hem): 28″

1970s Trumpeter D-Pocket leather jacket

Posted on June 1, 2014 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281350988381
This vintage leather jacket was made in Spain in the 1970s and was sold under the Trumpeter label. It has a broad coat style collar, front and back yokes, side button waist adjuster tabs, patch pockets and a zipped D-pocket. The yokes give the jacket a bit of western flair, while the style of D-pocket and the pointed patch pockets are a stylistic quote from Cossack and Aviator jackets of the mid 1930s.
The jacket is tagged a size 42, but with a 42″ chest, would best fit a size 40.

Chest (pit to pit): 21″ (doubled = 42″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 18″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24″
Length (base of collar to hem): 24″

1930s Pritzker Air-O-Coat leather cossack jacket

Posted on May 31, 2014 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281350510684
This vintage leather jacket was made c.1936-1937 by A. Pritzker & Sons, Inc. of Boston, MA. The jacket is a Cossack style, with a fancy belted back. The 3/4 zip with 1/4 button detailing, borrowed from “Gaucho” style shirts of the period, enjoyed a brief stint of popularity in 1936-1937 before falling out of favor. Pritzker & Sons was owned by Aaron Pritzker and had a factory at 1020 Washington Street, Boston, MA. They are probably now best known for their USN G-1 flight jackets, although prior to WWII, they were a prolific maker of civilian styles. This one was sold as the “Air-O-Coat”, conjuring up the romantic imagery of 1930s aviators.

The jacket has an early Talon Hookless style grommet zipper.. The jacket is lightweight and partially lined, as is typical of these early windbreaker styles. The shoulder yoke is lined, as are the cuffs. It has a half-belt back with one of the fanciest pleated back styles I’ve seen. Pockets are D-style due to the unlined construction.
The jacket was bought by Bucky Wadon around 1937. Wadon played football, hockey and baseball during the 1930s and served in WWII.
With a 42″ chest measurement, this would best fit someone who wears a size 36 or 38 jacket. The sleeves are uncommonly long for most jackets I’ve found from this era, perfect for the taller guy. The leather is still soft and supple and the jacket is still very wearable.

Chest (pit to pit): 21″ (doubled = 42″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 18″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 25-1/2″
Length (base of collar to hem): 20″

1930s Californian grommet zipper leather vest

Posted on May 31, 2014 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281350515618
This vintage leather vest was made by the California Sportswear Company of Los Angeles under their Californian label in the mid to late 1930s. It has an early Talon Hookless style grommet zipper and a chain and ring style Talon zip on the breast pocket, with the early style slider with the Talon script. These date it from around 1935-1938. It bears the famous Californian rising sun label, and has side adjuster belts, like those found on Californian’s half-belt leather jackets of the same period.

Chest (pit to pit): 20″ (doubled = 40″)
Length: 17-3/4″

c.1940 Woolrich railroad vest

Posted on May 30, 2014 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281349001502

This vintage vest was made in Woolrich, Pennsylvania by the Woolrich Woolen Mills. Woolrich changed their label design frequently, which makes them easy to date if you know what you’re looking for. This variant on the label was used from about 1940-1945. The design of the United Carr snaps are also a giveaway for this vest’s date of manufacture. In the 1930s, Woolrich used snaps with one of two variations on a greek key pattern. During WWII, they switched to a plain topped design, featured on this vest. Starting in the late 1940s, Woolrich switched to snaps bearing the Woolrich name, before switching back to a different variation on the plain topped snaps in the 1960s. The design of the back of the snap further confirms this dating.

The vest is made of Woolrich’s signature mackinaw wool. The vest has a snap front, and bound seams. Although some examples you see are the sleeved variation with the sleeves removed, the construction on those is different. The vest has a belt adjuster back and asymmetric top and bottom patch pockets. Comparisons to Brown’s Beach Jacket vests of the same period are inevitable. This vest has a single large interior pocket.

Woolrich still makes a version of this model, however, the snaps have given way to a zipper, the cut has been lengthened, the armholes lowered, the shape of the front and rear changed, the wool fabric is now a blend, the pockets are a different shape, the construction is different and the taped seams altered. There is really no comparison the the original.

Chest (pit to pit): 20″ (doubled = 40″
Length (back) 20-1/2″
Length (front): 23-1/2″

Lakeland Shawl Collar sweater

Posted on May 22, 2014 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281344004202
This vintage sweater was made in the 1970s by Lakeland. The design is heavily influenced by the shawl collar sweaters of the 1920s and 1930s. It has a broad shawl collar, a four button front and four leather pockets, the design and placement of which are reminiscent of shawl collared mackinaw coats of the same period. The sweater is fully lined and has an interior pocket, in keeping with the original intention of these as an article of outerwear rather than something to be layered, as was the case with v necked cardigans.

Tagged size: 40
Chest (pit to pit): 22″ (doubled = 44″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 18″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24″
Length (base of collar to hem): 27″

1930s Red Head Brand half-moon hunting vest

Posted on May 16, 2014 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271492450158
This vest was made in the 1930s by Red Head Brand, a high end maker of hunting and outdoorsman’s garments. This style has come to be known as a half-moon hunting vest, after the shape of its pass through pockets into the game pouch. Period advertisements generally referred to this style as a sleeveless jacket rather than as a vest. This one has pleated, flapped patch pockets on the front, as well as two patch pockets on the lining. There is a roomy breast pocket, just the right size for a pack of cigarettes, The half-moons pass through to the roomy internal game pocket, which closes with a button.

The vest still has the original Red Head tag, shaped, appropriately, like a duck. The tag reads – “Red Head Fits The Sport. The Red Head duck signifies that this article is backed by years of experience in the equipping of sportsmen. It is your guarantee that nothing has been spared to assure you of satisfaction in the field – that the Red Head standard of quality, workmanship, and above all, the integrity of the Red Head Brand, known by sportsmen for over forty years, is the inimitable ingredient of the product. Play safe and look for this symbol when purchasing outdoor equipment – Red Head Brand Co. – Chicago”

Chest (pit to pit): 22″ (doubled = 44″)
Length: 27″

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Tag Archives: 1930s

1960s Suede Californian leather Norfolk jacket

Glen Isle two tone sweatervest

1940s Pendleton half-belt cossack jacket

Black Bear Brand cruiser jacket

1970s Trumpeter D-Pocket leather jacket

1930s Pritzker Air-O-Coat leather cossack jacket

1930s Californian grommet zipper leather vest

c.1940 Woolrich railroad vest

Lakeland Shawl Collar sweater

1930s Red Head Brand half-moon hunting vest