Early 1950s one star motorcycle jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/401043381812

This vintage leather jacket was made in the early 1950s.  It is made of Front Quarter Horsehide, in a classic motorcycle jacket cut, with an offset zipper, cigarette pocket, handwarmer pockets, epaulettes, belted waist and chest pocket.  The main zipper is a Talon, of an design used in the early 1950s with a U shaped, wide rib, unmarked stopbox and square holed slider.  The bell shaped zips on the sleeves are unmarked.  The chest pocket zip has an enamel Triumph Twin badge and the front of the jacket has an American Motorcyclist Association enamel pin. The epaulettes have star studs and the jacket has bi-swing shoulders.  The back panel has developed an amazing grain. The jacket has a quilted lining.
Chest (pit to pit): 20″ (doubled = 40″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 17″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24-3/4″
Length (base of collar to hem): 21-3/4″

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Toyo Grizzly repro jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/401043302889

This jacket is a high end reproduction of the “Grizzly” style jacket, popular in the mid 1930s. It was made by Toyo Enterprises, who make jackets for Buzz Rickson, Sugar Cane and Style Eyes. Accurate down to the last detail, it bears a reproduction of a 1930s “Lakeland” hang tag. It has “Laskinlamb” mouton panels on the front and back, with a matching mouton collar. The sleeves and trim are horsehide leather. The idea of these jackets was to put the insulation on the outside so that the wearer could have an unobstructed range of motion. They were promoted heavily in an athletic context, promoted by football players, that sort of thing. This jacket is as near as you can get to walking into a store in 1935 and buying one. The main zip is a repro of a Hookless grommet zipper, and the throat latch has a repro dot snap. The original tags are still on the jacket and include a nice reproduction piece to accompany that zip. The front of the jacket is belted, as are the sleeves. There is a snap chinstrap to cinch it up at the neck. Inside, the body has a plaid lining, while the sleeves are lined in mustard twill. There are wool storm cuffs to keep the breeze from blowing up the sleeves.
Tagged size: 38
Chest (pit to pit): 21″ (doubled = 42″)
Shoulder to Shoulder: 18″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24-1/2″
Length (base of collar to hem): 24-3/4″
Waist: 18-3/8″ (doubled = 36-3/4″)

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Leather and Wool two tone jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/272050049718

This vintage jacket was made in the early 1940s.  Likely sold by Sears, this wool and capeskin leather panel style was briefly popular from about 1940-1943.  It has a bell shaped Conmar zipper, a buttoned throat latch, handwarmer pockets, pleated half belt back and leather trimmed breast pocket.

Chest (pit to pit): 21″ (doubled = 42″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 16″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 22-1/2″
Length (base of collar to hem): 21-1/2″

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Cushman Japan grizzly jacket repro

http://www.ebay.com/itm/401029083718

This vintage jacket was made by high end Japanese repro company, Cushman.  It is based on a mid 1930s Grizzly (Laskinlamb) jacket.  The jacket is made of horsehide leather and sheepskin, with a paneled construction.  It has a Talon zipper, which appears to be a combination of a repro tape and stopbox with a vintage slider. It has a plaid lining, is belted and has grommet reinforcement at the zipper.

Chest (pit to pit): 21″ (doubled = 42″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 18″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24″
Length (base of collar to hem): 25″

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Uber pullover leather jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/272050105305

This vintage jacket was made in Owatonna, Minnesota by Uber from deerskin leather.  It is a pullover style, with a lace up front and side zipper.  It has two C&C zip breast pockets and is lined. While the 44″ chest measurement would seem to suggest a size 40, trust me that with the pullover cut of this, it fits much better on a 36-38.

Chest (pit to pit): 22″ (doubled = 44″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 17-1/2″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 21-3/4″
Length (base of collar to hem): 27″

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1928-1932 Spalding Aviation Clothing leather flight suit

http://www.ebay.com/itm/272051885112

This vintage leather flight suit was made by A.G. Spalding & Bros. Aviation Clothing, between 1928 and 1932. It has a mouton collar, an offset closure, belted waist, large map pocket with sharply scalloped pocket flap, thigh pockets and a full silk pile lining. It is a size 42, and is their model 402. The suit has seven Hookless Fastener Co. Talon zippers, with the double marked sliders that indicate a date of manufacture between 1928, when the name Talon was introduced, and 1932, when Hookless dropped their company name from the product in favor of simply “Talon”. The zips are on the sleeves, legs, the chest and on two pass through pockets so the aviator could access his pants pockets.  The fly opening is accomplished by a snap on the zipper tape.  The large collar has a hook closure at the neck and a three button throat latch under the collar, to really secure it during open cockpit flight. While not his suit, Charles Lindbergh was a prominent endorser of Spalding’s flight suits of this era.

Tagged size: 42
Chest (pit to pit): 23″ (doubled = 46″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 19″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 25″
Inseam: 28″
Length (base of collar to bottom of belt): 22″
Length (top of collar to bottom of leg): 61-1/2″
The flight suit has the original boots, also made by A.G. Spalding & Bros. Aviation Clothing. These are moccasin style, with a lace up front and Hookless Talon zipper back.  They are fully sheepskin lined for warmth, with a double layer moccasin sole and tongues front and back.  They are a large size, measuring 12-3/4″ front to back, and 4-5/8″ side to side and comfortably fitting my size 12 foot.  Inside are sheepskin slippers, which appear to be of slightly later manufacture, either added for extra warmth, or more likely to down-size the boots for a second owner.
Lastly, there are two flight helmets, one original to the suit and also made by A.G. Spalding & Bros. Aviation Clothing and another unlabeled one.  The Spalding cap is a size 7-3/8 model 1900 and has Spalding baseball branded snaps for the goggle retainers.  The second cap is unmarked, with a snap closure and ear grommets.
Note: gloves are not part of the suit, and were for photographs only, they are not included.

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Aero Leather Grizzly Jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/272058700303

This “grizzly” jacket was made by the Aero Leather Clothing Co. of Scotland under their Thunder Bay label. It is made of heavyweight brown front quarter horsehide leather, with a mouton collar and sheepskin panels. It has slash handwarmer pockets, a belted waist, Talon zipper, button cuffs and an alpaca lining.

Tagged size: 42
Chest (pit to pit): 24″ (doubled = 48″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 21″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 22″
Length (base of collar to hem): 22-1/4″

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1970s CHP leather jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/272058847139

This vintage leather jacket was made in the 1970s.  It is a classic Columbia / CHP motorcycle style, with an offset zip (a heavy Talon), kidney panel with laced sides, epaulettes, zipped sleeves with mouton panels inside the cuffs, snapped belt loops and zipped handwarmer pockets.  This one is made from a heavy, competition weight leather.

Chest (pit to pit): 22″ (doubled = 44″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 18-1/2″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24-1/4″
Length (base of collar to hem): 23-1/2″

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1930s Albert Richard Grizzly jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/272037750012
This vintage jacket was made in Milwaukee, Wisconsin by Fried Ostermann between 1936 and 1938 under the Albert Richard Sportswear label. The jacket is made of front quarter horsehide leather, with mouton panels and collar. Originally sold as a “Laskinlamb jacket”, this style has come to be known by collectors as the Grizzly. These were popular in the mid to late 1930. The jacket has a Talon main zipper with a grommet style stopbox. The slider is of the deco sunburst design with oval slider-to-puller connection, which was only produced in the mid 1930s and which was replaced by a simpler design around 1938. The pull is a rectangular holed, plain backed version, also typical of mid 1930s production. The jacket is lined with plaid wool, with leather pit guards and ventilation grommets. The sleeves have knit storm cuffs to keep out the wind.

Chest (pit to pit): 21″ (doubled = 42″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 18″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 23-1/2″
Length (Base of collar to hem): 21″

A history of Albert Richard which I wrote for “The Art of Vintage Leather Jackets”: Fried-Ostermann was founded c.1902 as a glove manufacturer. They bought out their competitor, Price Gloves, and relocated production of that company’s products to their original factory, located at 617-645 Reed Street, Milwaukee, WI. By 1915, the company had gained a partner, and was known as the Fried, Ostermann, Meyer Co, but that looks to only have lasted until 1917. As the company grew, they relocated to 1645 S. 2nd Street, Milwaukee, WI. Fried-Ostermann diversified out of gloves and into outerwear in the late 1920s with the formation of a new division of the company, called Albert Richard. The leather jackets, mackinaws, overcoats and sportswear produced by Albert Richard would soon come to eclipse the glove-making side of the company. Pre-war advertising stressed health and sports, with endorsements from college football players. These ads also talk about bringing items of clothing which were previously thought of as workwear, like mackinaws and leather jackets, into the realm of ordinary streetwear, citing their comfort and durability. During WWII, the Albert Richard factory made A-2 (contract AC 23383), M-422A (contract 1406A), M444A and M445A flight jackets under the name of their parent company, Fried-Ostermann. They advertised leather jackets, overcoats and sportswear heavily during WWII, giving their jackets model names like the “Spitfire” and the “Meteor”. During the war, the company gave away wall-sized posters showing a range of american military airplanes. 850 workers were employed by Albert r in 1946, with plans to hire another 400. The company was one of the first to use fiberglass insulation in coats, a technology borrowed from b-29 bombers Sheepskin collared “storm coats” became a signature model after the war. President of Fried-Ostermann, Richard Fried, sold their Albert Richard Division to the Drybak corporation of Binghampton, NY in late 1952. Drybak, a maker of canvas hunting clothing was looking to diversify their line. In the deal, they got the licensing, branding, patterns, dealership network, but other than the Vice President and designer for Albert Richard, all of the employees and equipment stayed at the plant in Milwaukee. Fried-Osterman re-focused the attention of their plant on the production of gloves, and on producing leather jackets under house labels for mail order and department stores. Starting in 1953, under Drybak’s ownership, Albert Richard clothing was once again produced, this time under contract at a factory in New Jersey, which Drybak declined to name. The plan at that time was to have production moved to New York by 1954. Labels were changed in this period to read “Albert Richard by Drybak”. In 1955, Drybak acquired the Martin Mfg. Co. in Martin, TN. They closed their Binghamton operations in that same year and relocated their hunting clothing manufacturing and their Albert Richard division to the Tennessee plant to take advantage of the lower labor costs in the south.

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Lesco leather motorcycle jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/272031198911
This jacket was made in the 1970s by Lesco. It is made of black leather, in a classic motorcycle jacket style.

Chest (pit to pit): 22″ (doubled = 44″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 17″
Sleeve (Shoulder to cuff): 24-1/2″
Length (Base of collar to hem): 25″

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