Padded CHP leather jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271233323658
This leather jacket is made in the “Columbia” style, pioneered by Langlitz leathers. This style is also known as the CHP / California Highway Patrol. This particular one was sold by “Leather Man”, and is a size 50. It has quilted, padded shoulders and elbows, an asymmetric zip, and zip cuffs with sheepskin storm cuffs. This is made of extremely heavyweight leather.

Chest (pit to pit): 26″ (doubled = 52″)
Waist: 22″ (doubled = 44″)
Shoulder to Shoulder: 20″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 26″
Length (base of collar to hem, down back): 22-1/2″

 photo IMG_1257.jpg

 photo IMG_1258.jpg

 photo IMG_1259.jpg

 photo IMG_1260.jpg

 photo IMG_1261.jpg

 photo IMG_1262.jpg

1930s H.B. Glover utility jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281130396211
This vintage leather jacket was made in the late 1930s by the H.B. Glover Company of Dubuque, IA. It is a classic utility jacket style, with some very nice detailing. While it does not have a half-belt back, it has the side belt adjusters which are usually associated with it. On the front there are flapped pockets. Under one of the flaps is a smaller ticket pocket, fasted with a talon chain-style zipper. The breast pockets close under the shoulder yoke. The front is done up with a Talon Zipper of the type used in the late ’30s through early 1940s. It has a brown painted deco-ray stop box, marked slider and marked pull tab. There are leather knot buttons on the cuffs. The lining of the jacket is heavily stained and worn and sports the “Tailored by Glover” tag at the neck.

Chest (pit to pit): 20-1/2″
Shoulder to Shoulder: 17″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 23″
Length (bottom of collar to hem): 23-1/2″

The H.B. Glover Company was founded in Dubuque, Iowa in 1857. They grew rapidly from the 1870s through to the turn of the century. Early on, the company was known for their Pajamas, but they quickly added shirts, overalls, and other items of workwear to their product line. By 1913, Glover was one of the top selling overall brands. (Source)

Picture of factory, center left, 1904. 5th and Iowa Streets, Dubuque.
 photo 190401.jpg
By the 1920s, Glover introduced leather jackets. Depending on the jacket ads and labels read “Tailored By Glover”, “H.B. Glover”, or “Glover Sportswear”. Glover had an endorsement deal in 1925 with the “Four Horsemen” of the Notre Dame football team, who sported their leather blouses (jackets).

According to the 1936 article “World of Romance Behind Glover Company Products”, Glover took great pride in their materials. “Most of the raw materials used in Glover Sportswear (Jackets, Coats, Ski Pants, Snow Suits, etc.) originate in the West and the Glover company in selling its goods is emphasizing this very fact. Wool from Wisconsin, Montana, the Dakotas; Mohair from Del Rio and San Angelo; Sheel leather, Horsehide, Piggrain, etc., from the great plains . . . all these find their way into Glover Sportswear. And yet not all grades of woolens and leathers are good enough for Glover garments. The selected Western Range Woolens, for example, are chosen with infinite care. The choicest portion is bought right on the range, direct from the sheep raiser, thereby eliminating costly brokerage fees and the handling of the wool in dirty, crowded warehouses.”

 photo IMG_1212.jpg

 photo IMG_1213.jpg

 photo IMG_1214.jpg

 photo IMG_1215.jpg

 photo IMG_1216.jpg

 photo IMG_1217.jpg

 photo IMG_1219.jpg

 photo IMG_1220.jpg

 photo IMG_1221.jpg

 photo IMG_1222.jpg

 photo IMG_1224.jpg

1929

1931

1933

1934

1937

1947

1940s Californian Suede halfbelt

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271232887206
This vintage leather jacket was made by the California Sportswear Company of Los Angeles, California under their “Californian” brand. It has classic half-belt styling with side belt adjusters. The front closes with buttons, which are of the leather knot/football type. This jacket has jacket style lapels instead of the shirt style collar you generally see on short leather jackets of this style. There are dual vertical breast pockets.

Chest (pit to pit): 21″
Shoulder to Shoulder: 17″
Sleeve (Shoulder to Cuff): 24-1/2″
Length (base of collar to hem): 28″

 

 photo IMG_1188.jpg

 photo IMG_1189.jpg

 photo IMG_1192.jpg

 photo IMG_1194.jpg

 photo IMG_1196.jpg

1956 Varsity Jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281130415837
This vintage letterman jacket was made in the 1950s. The shoulder patch says 1956, which could place its date of manufacture anywhere from 1952 and 1956. It is a classic varsity style, with raglan shoulders, a snap front, and knit cuffs, collar, and waistband. The pockets are trimmed in leather. The gold trim on one of the sleeves has worn away on the shoulder, and there are marks from old patches. The wool is heavily worn. This jacket was made by Finch Sportswear of Minnesota, and has great chainsitching on the back of an Indian wearing buckin pants portaging a Canoe.

Chest (pit to pit): 25″
Center of collar to cuff: 35″
Length (base of collar to hem): 25-1/2″

 photo IMG_1263.jpg

 photo IMG_1264.jpg

 photo IMG_1265.jpg

 photo IMG_1268.jpg

 photo IMG_1269.jpg

 photo IMG_1270.jpg

 photo IMG_1271.jpg

 photo IMG_1273.jpg

 photo IMG_1274.jpg

1950s Swedish / German Goatskin utility jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271226620665

This vintage leather jacket was sold by Albackens of Malung, Sweden. The design is typical of what was coming out of German shops of this period. It is made of black goatskin, in a classic utility jacket style. It has a zipp zipper. There are a number of teeth missing on the zippers, but it still zips up well. There are buckle adjusters on the sides, and button tabs on the sleeves. The leather has a wonderful patina.

Chest (pit to pit): 19″ (38″ chest)
Shoulder to shoulder: 16″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 22″
Length: 23″

 photo IMG_0055-1.jpg

 photo IMG_0057-1.jpg

 photo IMG_0058-1.jpg

 photo IMG_0061-1.jpg

 photo IMG_0063-1.jpg

 photo IMG_0064-1.jpg

 photo IMG_0065-1.jpg

The half-zip, half-double breasted coat

This style is an oddity to be sure.  The bottom half of the jacket has a conventional coat-style zipper in the center, single-breasted style. The top has a six-button, double breasted panel.

This Hudson’s Bay point blanket example sold on ebay a number of years ago.
 photo 59602_449439551799960_167651100_n.jpg

An ad from 1939 for a similar style, also made from Hudson’s Bay point blanket material. Marketed in Children’s sizes.
 photo 193901.jpeg

A German ad from the same time frame, courtesy Florian Kremers. Also made from striped blanket material, but not Hudson’s Bay. The model name “Eskimo” references what seem to be the Canadian origins of this unusual style.
 photo 67554_449439675133281_500350770_n.jpg

http://blog.livedoor.jp/mcfly_store/archives/50731859.html
A modern reproduction of this style, by Freewheelers. This blends the styling of the blanket mackinaw originals, with that of hunting coats of the 1920s and 1930s, and throws in extra ’30s style zippers for good measure.
 photo da8dfe5a.jpg

Pioneer Scooter Club jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271203622483

This vintage jacket was made in the mid 1950s. The label is missing, so the maker is currently unknown. It is made from a gabardine material, with a conmar zip, and pick stitched collar and pockets. There are elastic panels at the side of the waistband, and button adjusters on the cuff. The Pioneer Scooter club was active in San Francisco starting in 1960. Around this time, this ricky jacket was retrofitted for scooter use with leather elbow patches, and a club patch and pin. From the wear and staining to the jacket, it is clear that the original owner was active within the club membership. Scroll down the listing to see photos of an early “Pioneer Scooter Club” rally. Lots of Vespas and Lambrettas, and the club patch clearly visible.

Chest (pit to pit): 22-1/2″
Shoulder to shoulder: 18″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24-1/2″
Length (base of collar to hem): 22-1/2″
 photo scootjacket.jpg

 photo IMG_1723.jpg
 photo IMG_1726.jpg
 photo IMG_1728.jpg
 photo IMG_1729.jpg
 photo IMG_1730.jpg
 photo IMG_1732.jpg
 photo IMG_1733.jpg
 photo IMG_1735.jpg
 photo IMG_1736.jpg
 photo IMG_1739.jpg

Grayhound belted back tweed jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271202829152
This vintage jacket was made by “Greyhound” in the late ’50s or early ’60s. The dating is a tad tricky to be exact on because of the unusual design of it. It has a four button front, moderately narrow lapels, with no buttonhole, yoked shoulders, and a working belted back. The belted back is a throwback to suit designs of the 1930s. This one adds a twist to it. It is stitched down in the back, but extends further up. The ends are free, and can be used to cinch the waist in by way of button adjusters.
Chest (pit to pit): 24″
Shoulder to shoulder: 21″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24-1/2″
Length ( base of collar to hem): 30″

 photo IMG_8379.jpg

 photo IMG_8380.jpg

 photo IMG_8381.jpg

 photo IMG_8382.jpg

 photo IMG_8383.jpg

Levi’s Type 1 jacket reproduction

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271202863443

This jacket was made by Levi Strauss and Co.. It is a reproduction of their Type 1 denim jacket, produced from the turn of the century until it was supplanted by the Type II in 1956. It has a pleated front, single breast pocket, and buckle back. This one has a slider buckle instead of the pronged type like the original would have had. The denim is factory distressed, as are the buttons. The styling makes me think LVC repro, but the combination of the small “E” on the red tab, non selvedge denim, and the 70535-9954 model no. on the tag make me wonder if it might just be a short-lived reissue by the main branch of the company.

Chest (pit to pit): 24″
Shoulder to shoulder: 19″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 26″
Length (Base of collar to hem): 25″

 photo IMG_1751.jpg
 photo IMG_1752.jpg
 photo IMG_1753.jpg
 photo IMG_1754.jpg
 photo IMG_1755.jpg
 photo IMG_1757.jpg

Buck Skein blanket coat

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271199111185
This vintage coat was made by the Buck Skein company. They advertised these coats with the “Thermalized Weather Control Lining” from 1955 to 1959, and this coat likely dates within that time frame. This striped blanket material was a high end fabric of the time, and generally sold for significantly more than other variants in the same cut. The buttonholes wore out and were re-stitched and the label has been worn down. Sometimes wear comes from abuse, but these are signs of a coat that was worn daily for decades, and loved. That kind of wear seems fairly typical for coats like this, which were truly investments when new, yet were casual, outdoorsy garments. This one is a single breasted style, with a four button front. It has double button belts at the wrists and large patch cargo pockets. The lining is quilted.

Chest (pit to pit): 25″
Shoulder to shoulder: 21″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 25″
Length (base of collar to hem: 34″

 photo IMG_0044.jpg
 photo IMG_0045.jpg
 photo IMG_0046.jpg
 photo IMG_0047.jpg
 photo IMG_0048.jpg
 photo IMG_0049.jpg