m1926 army Mackinaw

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271371253018
This vintage coat is an extremely rare pre-war m-1926 army mackinaw (short overcoat). It is double breasted, with a wide shawl collar and large flapped patch pockets. As was typical of early shawl collared mackinaw coats, both military and civilian, it is unlined. The updated version of this coat issued in WWII featured a lining. This pre-war pattern was commonly seen on Civilian Conservation Corps enrollees. Based on the 43″ chest measurement, this would fit best in the 36 to 38 size range.

Chest (pit to pit): 21-1/2″ (doubled = 43″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 16-1/2″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 25″
Length: 33″

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M1938 Jeep Coat

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271370848434
This vintage coat is an m1938 jeep coat, issued during WWII. The style descends from sheeplined canvas work coats and shawl collared mackinaws of the 1910s-1930s. It has a cotton shell and a wool lining. The coat has a double breasted front and a wide wool faced shawl collar. It is belted. There is a buttoned throat latch under the collar to secure it in cold weather, fastened with a riveted “wreath” button. Patches identify the original owner as a technical sergeant in the Army Service Forces.

Chest (pit to pit): 23″ (doubled = 46″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 18″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 25-1/2″
Length: 31-1/2″

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WWII Doeskin Army Mackinaw

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271371265923
This vintage army mackinaw was made in 1942. It is made of doeskin wool in a double breasted, shawl collared, belted mackinaw style. The spec tag identifies the official name as the Officer’s Short Overcoat, and the size as a 38 Long. One of the buttons on the belt is missing, but replacements for this model coat are easily found.

Chest (pit to pit): 21-1/2″
Shoulder to shoulder: 19-1/2″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 25″
Length: 34″

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1920s Hudson’s Bay Company point blanket coat

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281244175192

This vintage mackinaw coat was made in the 1920s. It is tailored from red and black Hudson’s Bay Company point blankets, in a classic double breasted cut. The coat is belted, with flapped hip pockets and slash handwarmers on the chest. The belt has buttons instead of a buckle, a typically 1920s detail. As with most mackinaws of this era, this example is unlined, with finished interior seams. This blanket material was highly sought after in this era for serious outdoorsmen. Upgrading to point blanket material over standard mackinaw wool could almost double the price.

Chest (pit to pit): 20-1/2″
Shoulder to shoulder: 16″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 23-1/2″
Length: 27″

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Soo Woolen Mills hunting coat

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281244162091
This vintage hunting mackinaw was made in Sault Ste. Marie, Michigan by the Soo Woolen Mills. It is their double-mackinaw model, with a caped front. It has wide coat lapels, whereas most of their competitors favored shirt-style collars on these single breasted models. The cape forms the flaps of the two breast pockets. As is typical with many of these early mackinaw coats, it us unlined. However, there is a double thickness of wool on the back, forming the game pocket, as well as on the shoulders and pockets. Snaps for the pockets are all United Carr, of the late 1930s-1950s design with a dot in between the two words of their name. The tag is the early yellow on black design.

Chest (pit to pit): 23″
Shoulder to shoulder: 18″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 25″
Length: 30″

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m1938 Jeep Coat Army Mackinaw

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271370848434
This vintage coat is an m1938 jeep coat, issued during WWII. The style descends from sheeplined canvas work coats and shawl collared mackinaws of the 1910s-1930s. It has a cotton shell and a wool lining. The coat has a double breasted front and a wide wool faced shawl collar. It is belted. There is a buttoned throat latch under the collar to secure it in cold weather, fastened with a riveted “wreath” button. Patches identify the original owner as a technical sergeant in the Army Service Forces.

Chest (pit to pit): 23″ (doubled = 46″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 18″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 25-1/2″
Length: 31-1/2″

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Shawl collar Jeffrey Banks x Lakeland mackinaw

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271370344153
This vintage coat was made by Lakeland. It is a 1920s- 1930s mackinaw style, with a shawl collar, buttoned patch pockets and a waist belt. This style was popularized in the 1910s by the Patrick mackinaw company of Duluth. They had a second boom in the 1920s-1930s as workwear, especially with railroad men. The simpler styling and navy blue wool of this one is more consistent with the 1920s-1930s ones.
It was designed by Jeffrey Banks in the late 1970s, and is a very good reproduction. Comparing it to originals in my collection from the era, it’s very close in terms of styling and cut. The interior of the coat is the real giveaway. While most of the originals were unlined, this has a luxurious quilted liner.

Chest (pit to pit): 24″ (doubled = 48″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 19″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24-1/2″
Length: 32″

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Also see:

1950s Hudson’s Bay car coat

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281243854821
This vintage coat was made in the 1950s. It is a Hudson’s Bay point blanket style, though this particular pattern of blanket came from a different woolen mill. This single breasted car coat style was made in this blanket material during the 1950s by a variety of makers. I’ve had ones very similar to this made by Lakeland and by Albert Richard. Unfortunately, this one has lost its tags, and the details, while close to the others, are not exact, so I can not be certain on the manufacturer. It has knotted leather buttons, and belted cuffs with a very nice loop detail. The coat has a quilted lining.

Chest (pit to pit): 23-1/2″ (doubled = 47″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 18″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 25-1/2″
Length: 33-1/2″

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1920s point blanket Carss Mackinaw

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281243862765
This vintage coat was made by Carss Mackinaw, probably in the 1920s. It is made of striped point blanket material, with four patch pockets and a belted back. It has a squared off shawl collar, and caped shoulders, both distinctively Carss details. The coat is unlined, as is typical of mackinaws of this era.

Chest (pit to pit): 24″ (doubled = 48″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 18-1/2″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 25″
Length: 30″

A bit about the company, from a history piece I wrote for “The Fedora Lounge”: Carss Mackinaw made blanket coats in Orillia, Ontario from at least 1897. Their signature model was single breasted with caped shoulders and a squared-off shawl collar. They are most commonly seen in red, green, and khaki, all with a blanket stripe at the base. The fabric used in these coats was advertised as a whopping 44oz (although this one feels lighter), and was sourced from a variety of trade blanket manufacturers, including Hudson’s Bay and the Bird Woolen Mills. They were advertised as “The Only Genuine Mackinaw Made In Canada”. They were retailed by the Hudson’s Bay Company, as well as other stores.

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Russian army overcoat

Here’s another one from my collection. It’s a cheap piece of Soviet surplus. It’s a pretty intense looking coat, but the lack of lining and the thin, poor quality wool it was made with means it’s not as warm as it looks. There’s a big waist seam to keep the size of the fabric down. The “leather” on the lapel and the cuffs is some kind of cheap imitation, and makes naugahyde look downright luxurious. Instead of buttons, it has hook and eye closure, which don’t do a very good job at keeping anything closed. There is a hook-and-eye belt rig inside, similar to the snap belt closures I’ve seen on all my German leather overcoats, in place of a jigger button.
I find it odd for a military coat to be all style and little substance, but despite that, I do love this coat.
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