Author Archives: Spencer Stewart

Du-Val Shawl Collar Corduroy jacket

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http://www.ebay.com/itm/271103027246

I’ve never seen another jacket like this.  It’s brown corduroy with patch pockets and a dinner jacket style shawl collar. Part hollywood jacket, part tuxedo, part smoking jacket.   It has a link style button closure with shiny brown sportswear style buttons.  It is unvented and has no buttons on the sleeves.  The jacket is fully lined, with one of the coolest labels I’ve seen.  The label states that the jacket was styled by Devonshire of Toronto, and the brand is Du-Val (The Most Durable Values) established in 1924.  There is a small spot on the left shoulder seam where the stitching has let go, but that would be easily mended.
Chest: 22″ (doubled = 44″ = size 40)
Shoulder to Shoulder: 18″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 25″
Length: 31″
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Sportchief Hunting Vest

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http://www.ebay.com/itm/281022639447

This vintage nylon vest was made in Canada by Sportchief quality outerwear.  It has a pile lining and a quilted nylon green nylon shell.  There is one pocket, and it closes with four snaps.  The cut and style is reminiscent of the iconic Brown’s Beach jacket vest.  There are period repairs to the shoulder seam, to some of the quilting, and to a tear on the front.  The stitching on the quilting is coming undone on many parts of the jacket and there is staining.  This saw a lot of wear during its lifetime.
Chest: 21-1/2″ (doubled = 43″ )
Shoulder to Shoulder: 14″
Length: 26″

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Wheels of Man suede cafe racer

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http://www.ebay.com/itm/271103039663

This vintage leather jacket was made in the late ’60s or 1970s.  It is heavy roughout cowhide suede.  It has a talon main zipper and talon cuff zippers.  The top collar snap bears the logo of the maker, Wheels of Man.  The jacket has an action back, two handwarmer pockets and zippped cuffs.  There is general wear and staining to the suede throughout the jacket.  The left cuff is worn and the stitching at the end of the seam has let go.  The right cuff has similar damage, and several small tears around the zipper.  The lining also bears the logo of the company and is stained, especially towards the bottom hem.
Chest: 23″ (doubled =46″)
Shoulder to Shoulder: 19″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 26″
Length (Collar to Hem): 28″
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Olive Drab overcoat

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http://www.ebay.com/itm/281022706925

This vintage overcoat was made in the 1940s by Jess Butz, on the U of P Campus, 3403 Walnut St., Philadelphia, PA.  It appears to have been an army private purchase piece, made of relatively lightweight wool in an olive drab shade.  It is a fly front single breasted overcoat.  The lining is pretty shredded and the coat is badly wrinkled. There is mothing throughout.
Chest: 21″ (doubled = 42″)
Shoulder to Shoulder: 17″
Sleeve (shoulder to Cuff): 25″
Length: 45″

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Mouton Collared Trench Coat by Supreme Fashion Tailored Clothes

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http://www.ebay.com/itm/281022711661

This vintage overcoat was made in the years following WWII. This style was popular in the late 1940s in through about the mid 1950s.  It is a double breasted gabardine overcoat, with a mouton collar.  The body is lined in alpaca pile, the sleeves are quilted.  The collar on this one is the nicest I’ve seen, so luxuriously soft.  The shoulders are wide and heavily padded, for that early bold look. There are a few small mothnips on the sleeve, but they’re minor.  The belt is detachable, allowing you to wear it with a full belt, a half belt or no belt at all.
Chest: (pit to pit): 24″ (doubled = 48″)
Shoulder to Shoulder: 21″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 25″
Length: 53″
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Gorsart Chesterfield Overcoat

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http://www.ebay.com/itm/271103105066

This vintage single breasted chesterfield overcoat was made by Gorsart of New York.  It is black wool with flapped pockets, a breast pocket and a velvet collar. It has a fly front.  There are period repairs to the buttonholes, wear to the edges of the velvet, wear to the bottom of the lining, and some dropped stitches under the collar.
Chest: 21″ (doubled = 42″)
Shoulders: 18″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 25″
Length: 52″
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Mouton Collar Trench Coat by Zero King

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http://www.ebay.com/itm/281022717414

This vintage overcoat was made in the late 1940s or early 1950s by “Zero King” out of their “Mountain Cloth”.  It has exaggerated wide bold look shoulders, a brown mouton collar.  The body is lined in sheepskin, the sleeves in quilt.  The sheepskin is in poor condition, with tears. The body of the coat and the collar are in excellent shape.
Chest: 22″ (doubled = 44″)
Shoulder to Shoulder: 20-1/2″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 25″
Length: 51″
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Lee Leeston Fedora Hat

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This vintage fedora was made in the late 1930s or early 1940s by Lee as part of their Leeston line.  It is a lightweight, unlined fur felt, with broad brim binding and a black ribbon.  The hat is creased in a teardrop crown.  Inside, there is an unreeded sweatband, which, as is typical for that type of sweatband of this era, has dropped many stitches.  Please see the photos.  The sweatband leather is stiff.  It was sold by Burt-Easter Haberdashery which had locations on Pennsylvania Avenue and on H. Street in Washington DC.  There is light staining and wear to the felt, staining to the brim binding, and a moth track on the bottom of the brim.
Size: 7-1/8
Brim Width: 2-3/4″
Ribbon Width: 1-3/4″
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WWII sheepskin gauntlets

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http://www.ebay.com/itm/271098561346

These vintage mittens were made during WWII and are named to a Captain Bill Grall.  They are fully sheepskin, with a tanned finish on the hand and a raw finish on the gauntlet.  They have what looks to be a horsehide reinforcement pull panel on the gauntlet, as well as a horsehide gusset. The leather is still supple and the sheepskin is in great shape.  Though they appear to be a handmade, non issue item, they would match a wartime sheepskin B-3 or Irvin, or are perfect to go with a vintage motorcycle jacket.
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Rugby Ralph Lauren skull trousers

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These trousers were made by Ralph Lauren’s “Rugby” line.  They are heavy army green wool, with embroidered skull and crossbones.  They are lined to the knee and have taped seams.  They are marked a size 34.
Waist: 34″
Inseam: 32″    Photobucket

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