10 and 12 gauge shotgun vest

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271286311294
This vintage hunting vest was likely made in the 1930s or 1940s. It has a five button front, belted back and thirty four loops for both 10 and 12 gauge shotgun shells. Later vests had generally switched away from the closed bottomed canvas loops, and to easier to produce knit loops, as well as switching from belted to plain backs. This example is made from fairly lightweight, breathable canvas.

Chest (pit to pit): 23-1/2″ (doubled = 47″)
Length: 21″

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1950s Penney’s workwear suit

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271280900728
This vintage suit was made c. 1958 by Penney’s. It is made of wool whipcord in a workwear / western style. The jacket is a fairly standard workwear cossack style, with a zipper front, action back, cargo and handwarmer pockets, a zip breast pocket, and button adjusters on the cuffs and waist. Zippers are both brass Talons of the type used in the 1950s. The jacket is unlined. While the jacket is in good shape, the pants of the suit are more heavily worn and faded. They have the Penney’s tag as well. The waistband has a rubber “chain” to keep the wearer’s shirt tucked in, however the rubber is now crumbling. The fly has a brass Talon zip. The pants are cuffed.

Jacket
Chest (pit to pit): 23″ (doubled = 46″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 19″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 25″
Length: 23″
Waistband: 20″ (doubled = 40″)

Pants
Waist (side to side): 17-1/2″ (doubled = 35″)
Outseam: 40″
Inseam: 29″
Rise: 11″
Cuff: 10″ (doubled = 20″)
Cuff Depth: 1-3/4″

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1920s Duxbak vest – size 42

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271278932633
This vintage hunting vest was made in the 1920s. The DuxBak line was started in 1906 by Bird, Jones and Kenyon, and had a factory located at 1 Blandina St., Utica, NY. Prior to the 1920s, Duxbak used the slogan “Duxbak Sportsman’s Clothing” in their advertisements and on their tags. During the 1920s, they switched to ” Duxbak Rain Proof Sportsman’s Clothing”. By the 1930s, they had changed their label to include a graphic of a hunter, and to emphasize “Utica”.

This shell vest design changed very little from when it was introduced in the early 1900s until this one was produced. As it was a garment of pure function, it was not beholden to the whims of fashion. A good design was a good design, and they stuck with it. It has loops for 32 shotgun shells on the front and 16 on the back, for a total of 48. The loops have a canvas top and an early rubber elastic bottom. They are of an open bottomed design, and have leather reinforcement tabs at the end of each row of loops. The vest has a five button front and all buttons bear the duxbak name. This vest was sold originally by the Ambrose Sporting Goods Co., which was located at 132 South Main Street, Memphis, TN. The company seems to have had their peak in the late 1920s, although they did make it through the depression.

Tagged Size:
Chest (pit to pit): 21-1/2″ (doubled = 43″)
Length (neck to hem down back):19-1/2″

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1930s Woolrich hunting coat

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271277514189

This is a rare early variant of the classic Woolrich hunting coat. Most Woolrich coats you see are from the 1950s or 1960s. Coats of that era have snaps withe the “Woolrich” name on them. They have labels with a slimmed down sheep and a (R) registered trademark symbol in the corner. This one dates from the late 1930s, and has a number of details which differentiate it from the later, more common versions. The pocket snaps on this one are of the style used in the 1930s and before, with a meander pattern encircled by dots. The label is of the style used from the mid-late 1930s, with a blocky sheep, green text and a green border. Woolrich was an early adopter of zippers on their hunting garments. This one has twin double-marked Talon zippers on the game pocket. This is the style used in the late ’30s- early 1940s, with a beveled edge puller with a small hole, the Talon name on the component which attaches the slider to the puller, and the full “Made in U.S.A.” text on the back of the slider. By the 1940s, Woolrich had abandoned the use of zippers on their game pockets, in favor of a simpler and more easily repaired (though less secure) single button. With purely functional workwear and hunting items such as this, they were passed down for generations and worn hard, as there was no regard for changing styles, and a deer is unlikely to call the fashion police. The coat has a fair bit of mothing to the shell, but is in better shape than most I’ve seen from this era. Although there is some, there is also much less wear and staining than usually seen to the liner, the neck and the cuffs, the areas generally most heavily hit.

Tagged size: 42
Chest (pit to pit): 22″ (doubled = 44″)
Shoulder to Shoulder: 17″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24-1/2″
Length: 30″

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1920s DuxBak hunting vest

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281160337309
This vintage hunting vest was made in the 1920s. The DuxBak line was started in 1906 by Bird, Jones and Kenyon, and had a factory located at 1 Blandina St., Utica, NY. Prior to the 1920s, Duxbak used the slogan “Duxbak Sportsman’s Clothing” in their advertisements and on their tags. During the 1920s, they switched to ” Duxbak Rain Proof Sportsman’s Clothing”. By the 1930s, they had changed their label to include a graphic of a hunter, and to emphasize “Utica”.

This shell vest design changed very little from when it was introduced in the early 1900s until this one was produced. As it was a garment of pure function, it was not beholden to the whims of fashion. A good design was a good design, and they stuck with it. It has loops for 28 shotgun shells, a high buttoning neckline to protect the wearer from the elements, and a buckle back to adjust for a comfortable fit. The buckle used on the back bears the patent number “819180”, which shows that this buckle design dates from 1906. The vest has a six button front, and all the buttons bear the DuxBak name.

Tagged Size:
Chest (pit to pit): 18-3/4″ (doubled = 37.5″)
Length (neck to hem down back):18″

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1920s wool outdoors shirt

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271246671831
This vintage shirt was made in the 1920s or 1930s. It is similar to the army shirts of WWI, with its pullover styling and attached collar, but does not have the breast pockets of that pattern. The buttons on the cuffs are mis-matched, but are obviously very old replacements.

Chest (pit to pit): 20″
Shoulder to shoulder: 16″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 21″
Collar: 15″

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Ralph Lauren chinstrap workshirt

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271245777345
This shirt was made by Ralph Lauren and is a reproduction of a 1920s or 1930s work shirt. It is made of a black and white checked cotton, with a chinstrap collar stand, a point collar, two breast pockets, tail gussets, and curved front tails with a placket that ends after the 5th button down.

Chest (pit to pit): 25″
Shoulder to shoulder: 19″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 26″
Collar: 16-1/2″

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Reproduction Shawl Collar Mackinaw

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281141046168
This coat is a recent reproduction of a style of Mackinaw coat which was popular from the early 1910s through to the 1930s. This style of coat started out with lumberjacks in the pacific northwest at the turn of the century. It broke into mainstream fashion starting around 1912, and was quickly adopted by the collegiate crowd. Workmen and railroad men quickly saw the practicality of its collar and short length and adopted the style.

This reproduction is made of heavyweight black herringbone knit cotton, with a fleeced backing. Like many originals, it is unlined, but the fleeced interior of the fabric makes for a very comfortable jacket. It has a broad shawl collar, and four flapped patch pockets. It is single breasted. There are button adjusters at the wrists.

Chest (pit to pit): 21″
Shoulder to shoulder: 17″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24-1/2″
Length: 29″

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1930s H.B. Glover utility jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281130396211
This vintage leather jacket was made in the late 1930s by the H.B. Glover Company of Dubuque, IA. It is a classic utility jacket style, with some very nice detailing. While it does not have a half-belt back, it has the side belt adjusters which are usually associated with it. On the front there are flapped pockets. Under one of the flaps is a smaller ticket pocket, fasted with a talon chain-style zipper. The breast pockets close under the shoulder yoke. The front is done up with a Talon Zipper of the type used in the late ’30s through early 1940s. It has a brown painted deco-ray stop box, marked slider and marked pull tab. There are leather knot buttons on the cuffs. The lining of the jacket is heavily stained and worn and sports the “Tailored by Glover” tag at the neck.

Chest (pit to pit): 20-1/2″
Shoulder to Shoulder: 17″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 23″
Length (bottom of collar to hem): 23-1/2″

The H.B. Glover Company was founded in Dubuque, Iowa in 1857. They grew rapidly from the 1870s through to the turn of the century. Early on, the company was known for their Pajamas, but they quickly added shirts, overalls, and other items of workwear to their product line. By 1913, Glover was one of the top selling overall brands. (Source)

Picture of factory, center left, 1904. 5th and Iowa Streets, Dubuque.
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By the 1920s, Glover introduced leather jackets. Depending on the jacket ads and labels read “Tailored By Glover”, “H.B. Glover”, or “Glover Sportswear”. Glover had an endorsement deal in 1925 with the “Four Horsemen” of the Notre Dame football team, who sported their leather blouses (jackets).

According to the 1936 article “World of Romance Behind Glover Company Products”, Glover took great pride in their materials. “Most of the raw materials used in Glover Sportswear (Jackets, Coats, Ski Pants, Snow Suits, etc.) originate in the West and the Glover company in selling its goods is emphasizing this very fact. Wool from Wisconsin, Montana, the Dakotas; Mohair from Del Rio and San Angelo; Sheel leather, Horsehide, Piggrain, etc., from the great plains . . . all these find their way into Glover Sportswear. And yet not all grades of woolens and leathers are good enough for Glover garments. The selected Western Range Woolens, for example, are chosen with infinite care. The choicest portion is bought right on the range, direct from the sheep raiser, thereby eliminating costly brokerage fees and the handling of the wool in dirty, crowded warehouses.”

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