Lee TWA / Pratt & Whitney work jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271349078220
This vintage work jacket was made by Lee, better known for its denim jackets and jeans. The jacket is a waist length style, and bears patches for Pratt & Whitney and for TWA (Trans World Airlines). It still has its original zip in quilted liner. The main zipper is a brass Talon. It has bi-swing shoulder, reinforced elbows, slash handwarmer pockets and adjuster tabs on the waistband.

Chest (pit to pit): 24-1/2″
Shoulder to shoulder: 19″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24-1/2″
Length: 24″

 photo IMG_7455.jpg

 photo IMG_7456.jpg

 photo IMG_7457.jpg

 photo IMG_7458.jpg

 photo IMG_7459.jpg

 photo IMG_7460.jpg

 photo IMG_7461.jpg

 photo IMG_7462.jpg

 photo IMG_7463.jpg

 photo IMG_7464.jpg

1940s Sportsman’s vest

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271324386244
This vintage fly fishing vest was made in the 1930s or 1940s. It is similar in cut and style to two made by Remington under the DriDux label which I recently sold, but no longer has a tag, so I can’t say for certain. It has a three button front, with two large wraparound cargo pockets. There is a flapped breast pocket. The other side has a felt pad to store flies in. Most have a simple piece of sheepskin, but this one snaps closed for greater storage and protection. The vest has a fly rod loop on one side, and a metal ring to attach gear to on the other.

Also see: https://vintagehaberdashers.com/2013/11/09/rem-dridux/

https://vintagehaberdashers.com/2013/10/26/hunting-and-fishing-jacket/

Chest (pit to pit): 22″ (doubled = 44″)
Length: 21-1/2″

 photo IMG_0062-1.jpg

 photo IMG_0063-1.jpg

 photo IMG_0064-1.jpg

 photo IMG_0066-2.jpg

 photo IMG_0067-1.jpg

 photo IMG_0068-1.jpg

 photo IMG_0069-2.jpg

 photo IMG_0070-2.jpg

 photo IMG_0071-2.jpg

 photo IMG_0072-1.jpg

 photo IMG_0075.jpg

 photo IMG_0076.jpg

Ideal zip front plaid workshirt

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281204221541
This vintage shirt was made in the 1940s by Ideal. It has a bell-shaped Talon zipper with an oval hole. It has a long pointed collar, with an extended “chinstrap” collar stand. There are two flapped breast pockets.

Chest (pit to pit): 23″
Shoulder to shoulder: 19″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24″
Length: 32″

 photo IMG_0152.jpg

 photo IMG_0153.jpg

 photo IMG_0154.jpg

 photo IMG_0155.jpg

 photo IMG_0157.jpg

 photo IMG_0158.jpg

 photo IMG_0160.jpg

J.O. Ballard Malone mackinaw

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281200082748
This vintage mackinaw was made by J.O. Ballard & Co. of Malone, New York. The company was founded in 1888 by Jay Olin Ballard, and traded alternately under the J.O Ballard name and the name, Malone Woolen Mills. The company began making wool outdoorsman’s breeches in 1891 and followed up with mackinaw coats like this one. They were famous for their Malone plaid- gray with red and green overchecks. Coats of this cut were advertised to hunters, hikers, mountain climbers, lumberjacks, workmen and all other stripes of outdoorsmen. The depression closed the company in 1933. It re-opened again in 1935 with the assistance of an Reconstruction Finance Corporation loan, a depression era loan program.
The coat has four flapped pockets and two slash pockets. The slash pockets, in the traditional position of handwarmer pockets, pass through directly to the game pocket. There is also access to the game pocket from flaps on the back of the coat. Unlike the similar Woolrich design, this one has buttons on the pockets instead of snaps and exposed buttoning on the front. The lining is mustard colored cotton. The sleeves have buttoned adjusters.

Chest (pit to pit): 22-1/2″ (doubled = 45″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 19″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24″
Length: 29″

 

 photo IMG_0072.jpg

 photo IMG_0082.jpg

 photo IMG_0074.jpg

 photo IMG_0085.jpg

 photo IMG_0078.jpg

 photo IMG_0079.jpg

 photo IMG_0086.jpg

 photo IMG_0088-1.jpg

 photo 190301.jpeg

 photo 192101Stitch.jpg

 photo 192104Stitch.jpg

 photo 192201.jpeg

 photo 192202.jpeg

 photo 192502Stitch.jpg

 photo 193401.jpeg

 photo 193402.jpeg

 photo 194101.jpeg

 photo 193301.jpeg

1920s Wool A-1 jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281196431961

This vintage jacket was made prior to 1926 in a wool A-1 style out of Hudson’s Bay point blankets.

In the early 1920s, a style of jacket emerged that would later come to be adapted into the A-1 flight jacket. This style had knit cuffs, a knit collar and a knit waistband, to keep of the wind and cold. It was produced in both wool and leather, and was marketed toward men who spent time out of doors- workmen and sportsmen. By the mid 1920s, the style started to evolve, with some makers dropping the knit collar for one in a shirt style made of the same material as the body. That variant, made in leather, later became the A-2 flight jacket. This jacket dates from the transitional period between the two. It has a waist length cut with a knit waistband and cuffs. It has a button front, as the separable bottomed zipper pioneered by Hookless Fastener, which allowed for zipper fronted jackets, would not go into production until 1930. Although most jackets of this style had flapped patch pockets, the positioning of them varied by maker and model. While some had them down towards the waistband in a setup now considered conventional, this one has them positioned midway up the chest.

The chinstrap detail is taken straight from workshirts of the period- constructed in the same way, with an extended collar stand with two buttonholes. The two tone nature of the red and black blanket material allows for a great two tone look, highlighting the pocket flaps and the collar.

The jacket is constructed from a three point sized Hudson’s Bay Company Point blanket. This material would have pushed this particular jacket into the top of the line position for this style. Jackets such as this made from HBC blankets were regularly double (or more) the cost of a heavyweight wool jacket of the same model and manufacturer. It was often an even pricier material option than the horsehide or capeskin leather options. The Hudson Bay blankets have a long and proud tradition in the history of rugged clothing for outdoorsmen. An icon of Canadian culture, the blankets at this time were made in England. The first mackinaw coats were tailored from then in 1780. Fur traders wore Capotes made from this fabric throughout the 19th century. Lumbermen of the late 19th and early 20th century prized the brightly colored coats as being the best on the market for warmth and durability. This one bears an early style label, before the “Reg. No.” was added to the bottom in 1926.

Chest (pit to pit): 27″ (doubled = 54″)
Shoulder to Shoulder: 23″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 23-1/2″
Length (to bottom of knit): 27-1/2″

 

 photo IMG_7484.jpg

 photo IMG_7485.jpg

 photo IMG_7486.jpg

 photo IMG_7488.jpg

 photo IMG_7489.jpg

 photo IMG_7490.jpg

 photo IMG_7491.jpg

 photo IMG_7493.jpg

 photo 192401.jpeg

 photo 192503Stitch.jpg

 photo 192701.jpeg

These ads are from the 1930s, but give an idea of the pricepoint comparisons. In this period, they were frequently advertised alongside horsehide and mouton ” Grizzly ” jackets, and other such expensive and rugged garments.  photo 193606Stitch-Copy.jpg

 photo 193611-Copy.jpeg

 photo 193612-Copy.jpeg

Sears Fieldmaster shawl collar mackinaw

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271306426480
This vintage coat was made in the 1940s or 1950s, and was sold by Sears under their Fieldmaster label. It as a canvas shell, with slash handwarmer pockets and flapped hip pockets. Both have leather reinforcement at the corners. As was typical with this style of coat, there are loops instead of butonholes. The collar is black mouton, the lining is sheepskin. The sleeves have a quilted lining. Although this coat was made in the ’40s or ’50s, the style had been around basically unchanged since the turn of the 20th century. They were popular as workwear for men who worked outdoors- for whom a coat that was lightweight yet warm, and which was rugged was a must.

The reinforcements are very similar to what was on the Montgomery Ward coats of the same era.  Possibly the same maker? https://vintagehaberdashers.com/2013/03/14/powr-house-shawl-collar-mackinaw/

This one is also quite similar: https://vintagehaberdashers.com/2012/05/23/shawl-collar-mackinaw/

Chest (pit to pit): 22″
Shoulder to Shoulder: 18″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24″
Length: 32″

 photo IMG_0049.jpg

 photo IMG_0051-1.jpg

 photo IMG_0052-1.jpg

 photo IMG_0054.jpg

 photo IMG_0055.jpg

 photo IMG_0057.jpg

 photo IMG_0058.jpg

 photo Image199Stitch-1.jpg

 photo 193101Stitch-2.jpg

Western Field Hunting Vest

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281191393899
This hunting vest was sold by Montgomery Ward under their house brand “Western Field”. It is made of canvas, and has a rear external game bag, a plaid lining, and a serval zipper. There are two large bellows pockets on the front, and elasticized pockets for sixteen shotgun shells.

Chest (pit to pit): 24-1/2″ (doubled = 49″)
Length: 24″

 photo IMG_0029.jpg

 photo IMG_0030.jpg

 photo IMG_0031.jpg

 photo IMG_0032.jpg

 photo IMG_0033.jpg

 photo IMG_0034.jpg

1910s / 1920s Filson canvas jacket

This vintage jacket was made by the C.C. Filson company of Seattle, Washington in the 1910s or early 1920s. It is in remarkably good condition- the best I’ve seen. The label bears their early 1011 First Avenue address. By 1924, Filson had re-located down the block to 1005 First Ave, then again in 1930 to 1001 2nd ave, updating their label accordingly each move. This conclusively dates from the 1910s or early 1920s. The label is of the early style, reading, “C.C. Filson Co / 1011 1st Ave / Seattle Wash / Manufacturers / Complete Outfitters / For Miners, Prospectors, Lumbermen”. At this time, Seattle was still the jumping-off-point for Alaska, and Filson advertised themselves as a “Complete Alaska Outfitter”. Later on, the “Might As Well Have The Best” slogan would come into usage.

The jacket is a heavy dry tin-cloth canvas. It has half-moon pockets on the front, leading to an internal unlined game-bag. Flaps on the back lead to this pocket as well. This creates a double thickness of high quality canvas throughout the coat, making for a durable garment. The collar is corduroy, and has a matching corduroy throat latch / chin strap. The shoulders are reinforced against wear when carrying loads. The hip pockets are of the early double-round style, and share a common pocket flap. The main breast pocket is similarly enormous, with a more regularly sized pocket overtop. The underarms have football gussets for a greater range of motion. The cuffs are lined with wool, and close with United Carr snaps. The snaps, both on the cuffs and the breast pocket, are of the early printed type, and still are very clear.

Chest (pit to pit): 21″
Shoulder to Shoulder: 17-1/2″
Sleeve (Shoulder to cuff): 24″
Length: 29″

 photo IMG_0002.jpg

 photo IMG_0006-1.jpg

 photo IMG_0072.jpg

 photo IMG_0074.jpg

 photo IMG_0011-1.jpg

 photo IMG_0013-1.jpg

 photo IMG_0016-1.jpg

 photo IMG_0017.jpg

 photo IMG_0014-1.jpg

 photo IMG_0015.jpg

 photo IMG_0002-Copy.jpg

Address up until 1923.  photo 1922.jpeg

Red Head Brand hunting vest

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271286283056
This vintage hunting best was made by Red Head brand. The vest has a densely woven brown canvas duck shell. It has a five button front and knit loops for twenty four shotgun shells. Behind the buttons is a mid 1930s Talon zipper, a rare transitional model between the hookless style grommet zips of the early ’30s and the “deco” zips of the later 1930s. As you can see, the sunburst stopbox on this one has the “foot” of the earlier riveted model. The label’s somewhat perplexing, in that it bears the registered trademark symbol. The Lanham act of the 1940s regulated who could use this symbol, and generally you see it on garments of the 1940s and newer. I have seen other Redhead clothes with this version of the label attributed as being from the 1930s, and the zipper is fairly definitively datable to the middle of the 1930s. So- either Red Head was an early adopter of the symbol, or a 1930s zip was installed a decade after it was made.

Chest (pit to pit): 20-1/2″
Length: 18-3/4″

 photo IMG_0001-2.jpg

 photo IMG_0003-2.jpg

 photo IMG_0005-2.jpg

 photo IMG_0006-3.jpg

 photo IMG_0009-1.jpg

 photo IMG_0014-1.jpg

 photo IMG_0018-Copy.jpg

1930s Duxbak Vest

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271286288652

This vintage hunting vest was made by the Utica Duxbak Corp. of Utica, New York in the 1930s. This one has the 1930s style label, which reads, “Duxbak Rain Proof Sanforized Sportsman’s Clothing”. It has a five button front and thirty two closed bottomed loops for shotgun shells. This particular model has a plain back (other options included an additional row of shotgun shells, and a belt-back). The canvas is densely woven and has acquired a great wear pattern over the years.

Chest (pit to pit): 20″ (doubled = 40″)
Length: 20″

Please also see these other Duxbak vests:

https://vintagehaberdashers.com/2013/09/16/1920s-duxbak-vest-size-42/

https://vintagehaberdashers.com/2013/08/31/1920s-duxbak-hunting-vest/

 photo IMG_0016.jpg

 photo IMG_00172.jpg

 photo IMG_00182.jpg

 photo IMG_00192.jpg