1950s Deerskin leather half-belt jacket

Posted on February 10, 2014 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281263966868
This vintage leather jacket was made from deerskin, probably in the late 1950s or 1960s. I have had this exact pattern of jacket before, but with a zipper front instead of the button front which this one sports. The other one had a mid 1950s Conmar zipper. However, many of these small deerskin jacket tailors kept the same exact pattern for years, so it could well go into the 1960s. With that said, it’s a button front, surcoat length halfbelt. It has slash handwarmer pockets and flapped cargo pockets, and has two zipper closure pockets on the chest. The back has a subtly western scalloped yoke and a half-belt.

Chest (pit to pit): 23″
Shoulder to shoulder: 18-1/2″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 26″
Length: 31-1/2″

1950s German Leather Overcoat

Posted on February 10, 2014 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281263975843
This vintage leather overcoat was made in Germany in the 1950s. It is made from heavy russet brown leather- probably steerhide. It has yoked shoulders, a buttonless double breasted front, slash handwarmers, zipper pockets on the chest, and a zipper pocket behind the lapel. All zippers are riri. The coat has a full plaid lining and an intenal snap fastening belt. The back of the coat has a nice double inverted (non-functional) pleat sunburst design.

Chest (pit to pit): 21″
Shoulder to shoulder: 18″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 23″
Length (base of collar to hem): 47″

1947 Ferguson and Allison overcoat

Posted on February 10, 2014 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271398557022
This vintage overcoat was tailored in May of 1947 by Ferguson & Allison of 1110 Grand Avenue, Kansas City, MO. It is made of brown herringbone wool, and has a double breasted cut, with caramel colored buttons and sleeve cuffs. It is fully lined, with a great pattern to the lining.

Chest (pit to pit): 24″ (doubled = 48″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 21″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 25″
Length (base of collar to hem): 43″

1930s black overcoat

Posted on February 10, 2014 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271398537583
This vintage overcoat was made in the 1930s. It is double breasted, with sleeve cuffs, a slanted breast pocket, steeply slanting shoulder seams and a plain back. The coat is half lined.

Chest (pit to pit): 21″ (doubled = 42″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 17″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 25″
Length (base of collar to hem): 44″

Mid 1930s Hyde Park overcoat

Posted on February 10, 2014 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281263922267
This vintage overcoat was made by Hyde Park Clothes sometime between 1936 and 1938, and was sold by one of the Zions Cooperative Mercantile Institution (ZCMI) Stores. The coat is made of brown plaid wool. It is double breasted, with wonderful brown buttons. It has raglan shoulders, and a plain back. The coat is half lined, and has great design on the labels. It bears a 1936 ACWofA union label, which nails down the date.

Chest (pit to pit): 21″
Center of collar to cuff (due to raglan shoulders): 34-1/2″ (comparable to about a 25″ sleeve with regular shoulders)
Length (base of collar to hem): 47″

1935 Hamilton Overcoat

Posted on February 10, 2014 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271398517948
This vintage overcoat was custom tailored in November of 1935 by the Hamilton Tailoring Company of Cincinnati, Ohio for a Mr. L.D. Warman. It it double breasted, and has wide, pointy, straight bottomed lapels. The back is belted. It is made of a gray wool tweed. There is a half-lining, and brown buttons.

Chest (pit to pit): 23″ (doubled = 46″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 19″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 26″
Length (base of collar to hem): 48″

Parker’s western blanket coat

Posted on February 10, 2014 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281263906903
This vintage jacket was made in the late 1940s or 1950s by Parkers of 200 N. Center Street, Reno, Nevada. It is their Mr. Windsor model. Made from gray wool, it has a black stripe, reminiscent of Hudson’s Bay point blanket coats. Unlike those, however, the stripe is a separate piece of wool. There are fancy western yokes on the front and back, and pleats with contrasting black wool inside to really make them pop. The jacket has peak lapels, square tails, and a full lining.

Tagged Size: 44R
Chest (pit to pit): 24″
Shoulder to shoulder: 19″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 25″
Length (base of collar to hem): 32″

1940s Maine Guide Hudson’s Bay Point Blanket mackinaw coat

Posted on February 10, 2014 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271397856838
This vintage coat was made in the USA by Congress under the Maine Guide Sportswear label. It is made from English-made Hudson’s Bay point blanket material, one of the highest quality and most expensive wools on the market for this type of coat at that point. These coats were most popular in red and black stripe, and in multi-stripe (green red, yellow and indigo stripes on a white background). The green and black is rare.
The style of the Hudson’s Bay label and the (R) symbol on the Maine Guide label help to date this to the late 1940s, although the overall pattern of the coat belongs more to the 1930s. I like the way the Maine Guide coats use the pattern of the blanket to accentuate the details of their coats. The “points” of the blanket are right up front. The sleeves are defined by the stripe, as are the handwarmer pockets and the buttoned sleeve adjuster belts. The hip pocket flaps contrast against the main stripe. Some manufacturers of point blanket coats merely tailored their standard mackinaw pattern in a different material. Maine Guide went the extra step to take full advantage of everything the iconic Canadian fabric had to offer. It makes sense, as the company had a lot of experience with blanket coats. In the early 1930s, Maine Guide produced a model with a double breasted chest and a zippered bottom. A really unique look.
This coat is double breasted and belted, and has a stylish peaked collar that I’ve only seen on blanket coats made by Maine Guide. Another unique feature to Maine Guide is the bottom hem, which uses the edge of the blanket, instead of having a bottom seam. The coat is unlined, which is more typical of pre-war patterns. The blanket wool is thick and has a long nap, which is also more typical of earlier production blankets.

Chest (pit to pit): 21″ (doubled = 42″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 18″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 25″
Length (base of collar to hem): 34″

WWII Richmond Bros. shawl mackinaw

Posted on February 9, 2014 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271397626926
This vintage Officer’s Short Overcoat / Shawl Collar Mackinaw was made in 1942 by high-end clothier Richman Brothers under contract for the US Army. This style coat was a direct descendant of the shawl collar workwear mackinaws of the 1910s-1930s, and from the m-1926 mackinaw worn by the Army and the Civilian Conservation Corps before the war. It is a double breasted style, with a broad shawl collar, epaulettes, and a belted waist. The coat is fully lined with an interior breast pocket.

Chest (pit to pit): 21″ (doubled = 42″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 19″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24-1/2″
Length (base of collar to hem): 33″

1930s Shanhouse Hudson’s Bay Point Blanket Mackinaw Coat

Posted on February 9, 2014 by Spencer Stewart

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281263182073
This vintage mackinaw coat was made around 1936 by W. Shanhouse and Sons of Rockford, Illinois. Shanhouse Sportswear was a well known maker of the time, producing high quality mackinaws, like this one, as well as a variety of leather jackets. At the time, the Hudson’s Bay Point blanket wool option was the most expensive mackinaw available from Shanhouse. Hudson’s Bay blanket wool was prized for its extreme warmth, wind blocking, vibrant color and luxurious nap. This red and black color scheme was probably the most popular, followed by the multi-stripe.

I’ve sold a lot of these blanket mackinaws, and I think this one may be my favorite design so far. It has wide, pointed lapels, with the black stripe positioned underneath for a bit of extra “pop”. This one retains its original hood, attached under the collar with a red knit wool panel for a bit of stretch when worn. The hood spreads when not in use, doing up with a Talon zipper with a rare sunburst bell-shaped puller. Whereas many of these coats had pressed metal buckles, or leather covered ones, this one has a high quality, heavy duty cast buckle. The buttons are original and have a nice red swirl pattern to them. The ones on the sleeves have turned a bit more brown over the years. Instead of regular patch pockets, this one has fancy saddlebag pockets, and uses the red and black of the stripe nicely for contrast.
As is typical on these earlier mackinaws, this one is unlined. The blankets used on these earlier Hudson’s Bay Blanket coats were of much higher quality than later ones, thicker, denser and with a deeper nap. Compare a 1930s coat to a 1970s one and you’ll see what I mean. The points on this coat are located on the side seam. This one features an extra-large version of the Hudson’s Bay label, and a wonderfully designed “Shanhouse” label. The coat bears a United Garment Workers of America “Duck Goods” union label.

Chest (pit to pit): 22″ (doubled = 44″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 18″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 26-1/2″
Length (base of collar to hem): 33″

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Tag Archives: style

1950s Deerskin leather half-belt jacket

1950s German Leather Overcoat

1947 Ferguson and Allison overcoat

1930s black overcoat

Mid 1930s Hyde Park overcoat

1935 Hamilton Overcoat

Parker’s western blanket coat

1940s Maine Guide Hudson’s Bay Point Blanket mackinaw coat

WWII Richmond Bros. shawl mackinaw

1930s Shanhouse Hudson’s Bay Point Blanket Mackinaw Coat