Dobbs cuenca panama hat

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281104253444

ama hat was made by Dobbs. It is a cuenca brisa with a sewn underwelt brim edge. It has a green grosgrain ribbon with a fancy two tone checkerboard pattern in the weave. There is a cloth sweatband inside, which gives the hat some “give”.

Size: 7-1/4
Brim Width: 2-5/8″
Ribbon Width: 1″

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7-1/2 Borsalino Homburg

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271202841266

This vintage homburg hat was made by Italy’s premier hatmaker, Borsalino. It is a classic, understated homburg style, with a relatively wide brim and beautiful soft fur felt. It was made for the European market and sold by Fratelli Cevini, P. Borsa 4, Trieste. As such, it is sized in the European “Punti” system. A “Punti” 7 equates to a US 7-1/2. While the felt and trimmings are in great shape, the inside of the hat has some issues. The reed has come through the reed tape, and stitches are dropped around the sweatband, so I would recommend replacement. The liner’s crown protector is missing, and there is a hole through the tip logo.

Size: 7-1/2
Brim Width: 3″
Ribbon Width: 1-3/4″
Crown Height: 5-1/2″

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1940s John the Hatter custom fedora

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281104246632

This vintage fedora hat was made in the late 1940s or early 1950s by John the Hatter of Lancaster, Pennsylvania. It is made from high quality fur felt, with a self-felted “Cavanagh Edge”, a process no longer available. It has a diamond crease with front pinches, and medium width bow. There is a wind string. The button is still attached to the string, but the loop which cinches the wind string around the crown of the hat has come undone. Inside there is a reeded brown leather sweatband, stamped “John the Hatter, Lancaster, PA”. It is a high quality sweatband with extremely finely done stitching, and a taped (instead of stitched) rear seam, a detail typical of earlier manufacture hats. The stitching which holds the reed tape to the body of the hat has come away for the front half of the sweatband.

Size: 7-1/8
Brim Width: 3″
Ribbon Width: 1-1/8″
Crown Height: 5-1/2″

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Grayhound belted back tweed jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271202829152
This vintage jacket was made by “Greyhound” in the late ’50s or early ’60s. The dating is a tad tricky to be exact on because of the unusual design of it. It has a four button front, moderately narrow lapels, with no buttonhole, yoked shoulders, and a working belted back. The belted back is a throwback to suit designs of the 1930s. This one adds a twist to it. It is stitched down in the back, but extends further up. The ends are free, and can be used to cinch the waist in by way of button adjusters.
Chest (pit to pit): 24″
Shoulder to shoulder: 21″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24-1/2″
Length ( base of collar to hem): 30″

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Levi’s Type 1 jacket reproduction

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271202863443

This jacket was made by Levi Strauss and Co.. It is a reproduction of their Type 1 denim jacket, produced from the turn of the century until it was supplanted by the Type II in 1956. It has a pleated front, single breast pocket, and buckle back. This one has a slider buckle instead of the pronged type like the original would have had. The denim is factory distressed, as are the buttons. The styling makes me think LVC repro, but the combination of the small “E” on the red tab, non selvedge denim, and the 70535-9954 model no. on the tag make me wonder if it might just be a short-lived reissue by the main branch of the company.

Chest (pit to pit): 24″
Shoulder to shoulder: 19″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 26″
Length (Base of collar to hem): 25″

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Buck Skein blanket coat

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271199111185
This vintage coat was made by the Buck Skein company. They advertised these coats with the “Thermalized Weather Control Lining” from 1955 to 1959, and this coat likely dates within that time frame. This striped blanket material was a high end fabric of the time, and generally sold for significantly more than other variants in the same cut. The buttonholes wore out and were re-stitched and the label has been worn down. Sometimes wear comes from abuse, but these are signs of a coat that was worn daily for decades, and loved. That kind of wear seems fairly typical for coats like this, which were truly investments when new, yet were casual, outdoorsy garments. This one is a single breasted style, with a four button front. It has double button belts at the wrists and large patch cargo pockets. The lining is quilted.

Chest (pit to pit): 25″
Shoulder to shoulder: 21″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 25″
Length (base of collar to hem: 34″

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Lakeland Laskinlamb Grizzly leather jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271198828888

This jacket is a high end reproduction of the “Grizzly” style jacket, popular in the mid 1930s. It was made by Toyo Enterprises, who make jackets for Buzz Rickson, Sugar Cane and Style Eyes. Accurate down to the last detail, it bears a reproduction of a 1930s “Lakeland” hang tag. It has “laskinlamb” mouton panels on the front and back, with a matching mouton collar. The sleeves and trim are horsehide leather. The idea of these jackets was to put the insulation on the outside so that the wearer could have an unobstructed range of motion. They were promoted heavily in an athletic context, promoted by football players, that sort of thing. This jacket is as near as you can get to walking into a store in 1934 and buying one. It has an early Hookless grommet zipper, and dot snap. The original tags are still on the jacket and include a nice reproduction piece to accompany that zip. The front of the jacket is belted, as are the sleeves. There is a snap chinstrap to cinch it up at the neck. Inside, the body has a plaid lining, while the sleeves are lined in brown twill. There are wool storm cuffs to keep the breeze from blowing up the sleeves.

Tagged size: 42
Chest (pit to pit): 23″ (doubled = 46″)
Shoulder to Shoulder: 19″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 25-1/2″
Length (base of collar to hem): 26″
Waist: 20″

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1930s leather half-belt utility jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281101000703

This vintage leather jacket was made in the 1930s. It is a classic utility jacket style, with handwarmer pockets, a zip breast pocket, and a pleated half-belt back. At the ends of the half-belt are adjuster belts. The jacket is made of what feels like horsehide, though with the labels missing, it is impossible to be positive. The leather has a wonderful patina and grain. In the 1950s, this jacket received a new brass Talon Zipper and a reline. The replacement lining is an alpaca pile, and is also sewn to the top of the collar. The sleeves are nylon, with home-knitted cuffs. Unfortunately, there is a funky tooth near the bottom of the zipper, so while you can engage it, you can’t get it zipped up very far. That should be replaced, probably with one more era-appropriate.

Chest (pit to pit): 22″
Shoulder to shoulder: 18″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24″
Length (bottom of collar to hem): 24″

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Denim half-belt utility jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281101026594

This vintage jacket was made postwar, probably in the late 1940s , but is nearly identical to the pattern of leather utility jackets popular prior to the war. It has slash handwarmer pockets and a diagonal breast pocket. There is a half-belt with side adjuster belts, and bi-swing shoulders. In front is a brass talon zipper, which still works well. The jacket is made of a herringbone stripe blue denim. It’s interesting that the panel underneath the halfbelt has the pattern running 90 degrees to the rest of the jacket, providing visual contrast.

Chest (pit to pit): 25″
Shoulder to shoulder: 20-1/2″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 25″
Length (bottom of collar to hem): 25″

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