1970s Women’s Hudson’s Bay Company point blanket coat no. 1

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271714816075
This vintage coat was made by the Hudson’s Bay Company from their iconic multi-stripe point blankets. The coat is double breasted, with a pleated vent and handwarmer pockets. The inside of the coat is stained. While the front of the coat is missing two of its distinctive buttons, there is an extra inside, and one underneath the collar, so that could be easily remedied.

Chest (pit to pit): 22-1/2″ (doubled = 43″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 16″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 22″
Length (base of collar to hem): 30″

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Early 1930s mackinaw Stag Coat

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281511678501
This vintage mackinaw coat was made in the early 1930s. At the time of its manufacture, this single breasted plaid mackinaw style, with its A-1 style patch pockets and shirt collar, was known as a Stag Coat. It has a double yoke back for a bit of extra warmth, and like many early mackinaws, is unlined.

Chest (pit to pit): 21-1/2″ (doubled = 43″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 18-1/2″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 22-1/2″
Length (base of collar to hem): 28″

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1930s Woolrich 255 hunting mackinaw

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281506560642
This vintage jacket was made in the mid to late 1930s by the Woolrich Woolen Mills of Woolrich, PA. This is the rare 255 model, with a double front yoke, handwarmers with D-pocket stitching and flapped cargo pockets. It has exposed buttons and a rear game pouch. The coat, in keeping with many early mackinaw coats, is unlined.

Chest (pit to pit): 24-1/2″ (doubled = 49″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 20″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24-1/2″
Length (Base of collar to hem): 30″

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Red 1950s-1960s Skookum hunting cruiser jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281506991776
This vintage jacket was made in the late 1950s-1960s by the Centralia Knitting Mills of Centralia Washington for Harold Kaufman under the Skookum Sportswear label. It is made of heavy red mackinaw fabric in a four pocket, caped pattern, with front snaps. Due to the heavy weight of the material, the coat is unlined.

Chest (pit to pit): 27″ (doubled = 54″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 22″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24-1/2″
Length (base of collar to hem): 32″

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1960s red Woolrich 511 Mackinaw coat

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271674539854
This vintage woolrich coat was made in the early 1960s in Woolrich, Pennsylvania. It is the 511 model, the red version of the 503, which was introduced around the turn of the century.. This version has the later symmetrical breast pockets, and Woolrich branded snaps.

Chest (pit to pit): 25″ (doubled = 50″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 19″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 23-1/2″
Length (Base of collar to hem): 31″

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1930s H.W. Carter & Sons red and black point blanket mackinaw coat

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271670833049
This vintage jacket was made by H.W. Carter & Sons of Lebanon, New Hampshire in the mid 1930s. It is made of heavy red and black point blanket material, in a single breasted mackinaw style. Unusual for a point blanket coat, this example has a game pocket, which does up with two early Hookless-style Talon zippers. The coat has a zipper hood which snaps down into a collar. The hood zips open and closed with a Talon zipper, the design of which dates this jacket to c.1937. The coat bears a United Garment Workers of America union label, as well as a black and yellow tag identifying the material as water repellent and all wool. The jacket is fully lined in mustard colored cotton, similar to what Woolrich was using on their hunting coats in this period, especially in its use of a single patch breast pocket. The mackinaw has snap closure cargo pockets as well as handwarmers.

Chest (pit to pit): 25″ (doubled = 50″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 18″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 26-1/4″
Length (base of collar to hem): 31″

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1930s half-zip, half button moose pattern camp blanket coat

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281498553174
This vintage coat was made in the 1930s from moose patterned wool camp blanket material. The coat is made in a rare pattern, with a half-zip bottom and a 3×6 double breasted top that was made in small numbers between about 1934-1939, notably by Congress Sportswear as part of their Maine Guide line. Most were made from red and black Hudson’s Bay point blanket material, but this one is made of a more distinctive camp blanket. The blanket material has a red background with orange and camel colored stripes, approximating sunrise, and black moose. I have found several examples of this moose-meets-deco patterned Indian Blanket from other sources that have been attributed to the Pendleton Woolen mills, but none with a surviving label, so I can’t be sure. LL Bean was selling a similar coat in the mid 1930s from their figural mallard patterned blankets. The jacket has two handwarmer pockets and a yoke which forms the “chest protector” double breasted section. The coat has a zipper hood which buttons down into a collar. The hood spreads into a collar or zips into a hood with a Talon zipper, with a deco-lined slider and rounded slider-to-puller assembly only produced in the mid 1930s, and a bell-shaped pull. The original owner must have loved this coat, the main zipper, probably a grommet Talon was replaced with a 1950s Talon. Wear to the hem was repaired with patches and stitching. The chest was darned. The underarm and front corner were patched with buffalo plaid wool. But with such a distinctive coat, both in terms of material and in terms of cut, who can blame them?

Chest (pit to pit): 23″ (doubled = 46″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 19″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24-1/2″
Length (base of collar to hem): 32″

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1920s TW Stevenson leather lined shawl collar mackinaw coat

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271666301961
This vintage mackinaw coat was made in the 1920s by the TW Stevenson Mfg. Co of Minneapolis. Stevenson was a producer of mackinaw coats and leather jackets from the late 1800s through the 1930s. The company was headquartered at 416 N. 1st Avenue, Minneapolis, Minnesota.
This coat is an early-style shawl collared mackinaw. It is double breasted, belted, with patch pockets and is constructed from heavy brown mackinaw wool. The coat is fully leather lined, body and sleeves. Such leather linings were popular in the 1910s-1920s as a windproof layer in outdoor / workwear coats. Starting in the late 1920s, leather became a more a more popular material for coat exteriors, and the popularity of the position wool and leather switched. The coat has the name Walter Sternitzke written in the lining, though the coat was probably originally purchased by his father, Reinhold Sternizke, a farmer from the town of Aitkin, Minnesota.

Chest (pit to pit): 25″ (doubled = 50″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 20″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 26″
Length (base of collar to hem): 37″

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1940s Patrick Duluth Hollywood jacket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281479077025
This vintage jacket was made by the FA Patrick Company of Duluth, Minnesota. It is made in blue-gray striped wool, in a casual Hollywood jacket style. It has three patch pockets and a wide collar. From the label and styling, this jacket dates from the late 1940s to early 1950s.
Chest (pit to pit): 23″ (doubled = 46″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 19″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24″
Length (base of collar to hem): 29″

A bit about the company, from a history piece I wrote for “The Fedora Lounge”
: The F.A. Patrick Company, proprietors of the Patrick-Duluth Woolen Mills of Duluth, Minnesota were responsible for taking the Mackinaw coat out of lumber camps of western Canada and introducing them to students, workmen and athletes across the United States. Early on, the Patrick Company were jobbers, making dry goods, primarily for clients in the Northwest of the United States in Canada. In 1901, Patrick began buying fabric from a Scandinavian mackinaw cloth factory in Fosston, Minnesota. In 1906, seeing potential, Patrick bought that factory and began making their own Mackinaw cloth, eventually becoming one of its leading producers. The fabric and the coats made from it were popular with miners, fur trappers, lumberjacks and hunters.

In 1912, Patrick launched a new, refined mackinaw design. It was double breasted, belted and sported a collar described in the ads of the period as a “nansen” collar. Though the term also existed then, we now refer to this style as a shawl collar. The coat was 35″ long and was available in 24 and 32 oz wool mackinaw cloth, in a wide variety of colors. Salesman Harry Harrington began to pitch the Patrick Mackinaw to clothiers in college towns. “It was not long after that that mackinaws became a fad with students generally, and as the college student invariably sets the styles for young men’s clothing, it quickly spread over the whole country”. The early mackinaw trend was marketed in a similar way to the current workwear trend, trading on the rugged associations of the workers for whom the garment was originally designed. The mackinaw fad boomed, and shortly, a number of other manufacturers sprung onto the scene, producing mackinaws of varying quality from a variety of cloths. Large quantities of Patrick mackinaws were sold through such high end stores as Brooks Brothers, Rogers Peet, Wannamaker, Abercrombie and Fitch, Brokaw Brothers, and A. Raymond.
It is around this 1912-1913 period where the name “Mackinaw” begins to be more associated with the short, double breasted, shawl collar style, and less with the mackinaw cloth material from which it was made. The fad lasted about a year and a half. Patrick could not keep up with the growing demand caused by the collegiate fad, and the inferior fabric quality of some competitors led to the downfall of this first-wave craze.

Seeing the end of the craze, Patrick-Duluth re-branded its mackinaw once again, refining its pattern and marketing it to farmers, children, hunters and outdoorsmen, workers, and sportsmen. Its durability, warmth, low price compared to comparable overcoats or sheeplined coats, made it an easy sell to these markets. Alongside sheeplined canvas coats, Patrick Mackinaws became the de-facto winter coat of railroad employees. To further expand the market, patterns were made for men and women, boys and girls. Patrick intensified their national advertising, placing ads in the Saturday Evening Post, Country Gentleman, Farm Journal, Woman’s World, American Boy, Youth’s Companion, Boy’s Life, and many more. The name of the product was shortened from “Patrick-Duluth Woolen Mill Mackinaw” to simply “Patrick”, in a bid to make their brand name the generic trade name on the market, thereby foiling the business of competitors. Their slogan “Bigger than Weather” was penned by Elbert Hubbard. Ads were illustrated by Peter Newell and Clare Briggs. In the years between 1911 and 1914, Patrick had quadrupled its production, expanding from their two story mill to a six story mill on Duluth habror, a garment factory in Duluth, and knitting and spinning mills in Mankato, MN.

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c. 1935 Congress Sportswear half-zip, half button point blanket mackinaw coat

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271624812561
This vintage coat was made c.1935 by Congress Sportswear and would likely have been sold under the “Maine Guide” label. This is a highly unusual and short lived style produced by Congress, with a half-zip, half-button front. The bottom half zipped up with a Talon grommet zipper, and the top with a 3×6 double breasted closure, which can be buttoned closed, buttoned like coat lapels, or open like 19th century military uniforms. The coat has a zip hood, which can be folded up and snapped (with early United Carr snaps) to form a collar. The coat is unlined, as is typical of these early mackinaw coats, and has taped seams.
The coat is readily identifiable as a Congress Sportswear product by several details. Congress was one of the only manufacturers to produce this half-and-half style, but details, like the un-hemmed bottom edge, and the contrast pocket trim and cuff adjusters are unique to Maine Guide products. These coats were produced by Congress for several other house labels, namely Abercombie and Fitch.
The coat is made from Hudson’s Bay Company point blanket, with a 1930s label. This fabric was, at the time, one of the most expensive wool fabrics available for high-end outdoors garments. The zipper is identifiable as being manufactured in the mid 1930s by its bell shape, the deco rays found both on the slider and the pull and by the oval shaped attachment piece between the slider and pull, which had been replaced by the later 1930s by a square sided bersion. The grommets of the grommet zipper, as well as the primitive stop-box, are still in place, although the current zipper, slightly shorter than the original, can be identified as a later production model Talon by its rounded edged pull and stop-box design.

Chest (pit to pit): 24″ (doubled = 48″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 18″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24″
Length (Base of collar to hem): 36-1/2″

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